Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Front End Brake Chatter
Oct 20, 2014
I have been having some brake chatter for awhile now. I have changed pads, changed rotors, rebuilt both front calipers, flushed all my brake fluid, and made sure my slide pins were good and free. I have noticed some weird wear on the new front rotors and was wondering if it was normal or not. On a different note, I am having to replace my parking brake pads. When I had the axle out I looked in and saw a bunch of gunk.
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2003 in sig. when going around corners slow I can feel and hear a chatter or vibration coming from what I think is the rear end. I am running amsoil 75/140 in it and added some friction modifier. Do my clutches are shot and making noise or do I need to add more friction modifier ?
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Ive got a 2002 f250 Sd 4x4 with 93000. Im getting severe vibration from the front drivers side at highway speed. I thought it might be a warped rotor but i cant feel it in the brake pedal, when I put the brakes on. How can you tell when the hub bearing assembly is going bad? The truck doesnt pull to that side either. I can hear it, and feel it more when i'm going around highway corners. When im driving through town, I can hear a "clunk,clunk,clunk" noise coming from that side also.
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Ok, I've seen a post or two about this issue of rear end chatter on the super duty But not that many so I am going to ask a question here and now......what causes/allows this to happen and what purpose does it serve? also, does it cause any damage to the gear head? or any other part of the rear end?
My truck tends to do this from time to time when I am plowing snow (only when backing up, or at least so far) and I really can't relate it to condition other than maybe the fact that pushing snow may cause the gear oil to get hotter than normal driving and thins out and causes this?
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I have a 2006 f-250 with 5.4L 3valve engine. I was worried about my variable valve timing system because my engine sounds pretty rough and I hear a lot of valve chatter. I know that low oil pressure can be a big problem on these engines. Here is a pic of my oil pressure gauge. This was taken while the truck was warm while parked.
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I replaced the steering gear box in my 06 F250 CCLB 6.8 over the weekend with a reman Cardone. The old gear box had what I can best describe as a chatter/binding if you rocked the wheel back and forth, that's gone now. I sucked out as much fluid as I could, then filled the reservoir several times while the fluid ran out, what came out was very cloudy and gritty, guessing the old box was chewing itself up.
Can't seem to find a straight answer - what fluid SHOULD this have in it?
Sounds like I should have used Mercon, looks like I grabbed Type F instead. Could that cause the steering effort to be extremely light? I mean like ridiculously light, tip of your pinkie barely touching and turning the wheel light?
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2012 F-250, it sounds like a rock or something in my left front brake cover?? I only hear it when I come to a stop or just start out, sounds like a stone or something coming to rest like if you had a stone in a drying machine coming to rest when you shut it off. But I don't hear it at all over 10mph?
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-2003 5.4 XLT. 178,xxx Disk brakes front & back.
Driving home from work, came to a long stop waiting for train. Started to drive away and my front right brake started to lock up pretty good on me. Drove it home as I was only a couple blocks away. Its just started to get above freezing here, and we've been between 0-20 degrees for a good stretch lately. That being said, I'm pretty sure it's my brake lines swelling with our "heat wave" of 35 degrees today. Also I've replaced the rear rotors & pads, as well as flushed the brake system a while back. Never replaced the front after purchasing used a while back, as they still had plenty of pad left.
Question : Purchased new front lines. Do the front calibers, "float" on pins like the back? (If so that may be my issue of the caliber getting stuck on the pins moving back and forth.)
At 178,xxx miles I'm going to replace the lines myself regardless of this outcome.
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Any good info on front brake replacement parts to get better braking out of these beasts? My pads are now needing replacement but I would like to get better performance than that of factory parts....
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I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
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2001 F250 SD diesel. Brakes have been working fine with no pulling. They just started to squeal recently so I knew it was time for some new pads.
I'm having a problem that seems to plague me often when I try to replace disc brake pads. I can't get the twin pistons to go back in to allow room to get the new, thicker pads in.
I unscrewed the cap to the master cylinder and used a spreading tool (that came in a brake kit from Advance Auto Parts) to compress the pistons. No movement.
I put a lot of force on it. No piston movement.
I unscrewed the bleeder screw and tried again. No movement.
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I'm gonna replace my front and rear brake pads. Any tips? Do I need to pull the rotor off and clean the axel? I've watched a couple of youtube videos but they leave me with a few answers. I have all the tools, what kinda lubricants will i need? Any recommendations? I hoping I can do a flawless job without and squealing...
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When on my 2-post lift my front brake lines on my '11 4x4 are pulled TIGHT, like stupid tight. It's also dumb that the soft line points UP 'cause it gets tugged down to a brutally tight 180.
I've got the front lift pads under the control arms, too, but near the very rear of the control arms so the axle isn't even dropped out all the way I don't think.
There's a bracket down near the bottom of the coil springs that could just be sectioned/lengthened, which I think would alleviate my issue. I'll be working on this soon.
What manufacturer builds a vehicle that yanks on the brake lines under full suspension droop? Shouldn't this be on an engineer's final checklist before the vehicle is released? Oh wait, they gave that task to Team TTB and Engineering Group TFI Or maybe they gave it to the same Audi team that designed the Allroad with airbags that can be damaged if you don't "lock" them out before lifting the vehicle......
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I know this has been talked about many times and how to solve the issue but thought I would ask some other questions too. Earlier in the summer, I did grease the slider pins as preventative maintenance. I don't drive my truck all that much and when I used it yesterday, (about 30 minute drive) I came home to burning brake smell. I'm wondering if enough heat would cause the caliper to go bad? Should I just grease the pins again or change out some parts?
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F350 Super Duty sometimes the front driver side brake sticks and will pull to the left while driving and pull hard to the right while braking. It has a slight front end vibration when the symptoms are present. The wheel will be boiling hot to the touch and the smell of brakes burning is obvious.
After the truck sits, it will be good with no incident for weeks.
With the wheel still hot and on jackstand, the front wheel seems to turn freely until the brakes are applied, and seems to spin free again as brakes are released.
It seems to happen when I have a "hard braking" incident going forward until I park the truck and let it sit. If i consciously brake soft, the brakes seem to be fine.
I have read some of the posts and this is different in that it is intermittent.
I have replaced the brake hose as I thought it could be the "check-valve" symptom. No luck.
I have checked the sliders and re-lubed and they slide freely.
The caliper is relatively new and the fluid in the system is fresh as i recently changed the rear brake line and completely flushed and bled all four corners.
Do i just change the caliper, or, is there a way to find out if one of the pistons is intermittently binding? I would hate to invest in a new caliper if that is not the issue.
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03 f350 4x4. New front calipers and pads.
Wondering if there's a 'trick' to getting the front brake pads into the caliper . Those damn springs kept popping out. I'd get three of the four ends into place in the pad holes then one would pop out while I'm trying to get the fourth in.
After about a hour of trying every different way that I could think of, another set of hands came by and with four hands holding things in place, it finally did the trick.
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I noticed yesterday that my tire on the driver's side has rubbed a flat spot on the rubber brake hose. I bent the metal tubing so that it doesn't rub any more, but should this be of great concern? Obviously I'd hate for it to rupture, but it looks as though it's not too bad.
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I have a 2008 f-250 6.4 Diesel. Yesterday the Brake Fluid light came on. I thought maybe a sensor, but once I parked and checked I realized my brake fluid was down to the Min line. I started looking for a leak and it was apparent that it was the front drivers wheel area.
I am attaching a picture of the brake. The leak is either coming from the area where the fluid line runs into the gold thing (caliper?) or the bolt at the bottom of the gold thing.
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My 2008 ford f250 SD Powerstroke has a bad front passenger side brake rub/ dragging after offroading before off roading just rubbed a little now it drags a lot. what do i need to fix.
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2000 F 350 super cab 4wd 7,3 auto srw long bed. Problems with emergency/parking. My cable probably needs replacing. My pedal will go to floor when setting the e brake. I use very infrequently, but when loading hay on the big bale trailer. I could ignore it but when hit the slightest bump the brake pedal goes down just enough to activate the brake light on the dash and activates the bell/chime until I raise the brake pedal up.
When searching this site one post stated that should not happen. I am trying to figure out if I need to replace the front cable, intermediate cable, and rear cables. And do I need to replace the foot pedal assembly as well. What are the part numbers for these. I generally order from who ever took over Edpartguys for original ford parts. I have new cryo rotors and Hawke brake pads.
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So I'm away from home on vacation also away from my tools. Any ways my front drivers side line busted almost causing me to crash earlier today in my 2006 F250 6.0 diesel 4x4. So basically my question is: what tools are needed to do this job? I've already picked up the part now tomorrow morning I will be changing the part...
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