Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Front Driveshaft Broke?
Jan 25, 2015
I was having a problem with 4wd and regreased/ cleaned hubs and when I went to test operation both fronts would engage and worked good. After a while.of testing in and out of 4wd I heard a loud clunk and looked under, the front driveshaft blew apart at the weld.the u joints dont seem to be bad so im at a loss as why this snapped. It was not a clean break and the edges looked like it had to started to tear at some part in the past due to rust build upon the inside.of the shaft and torn edge. Im lookin at 2 feet of snow expected here Tuesday, so im trying to find some answers as well as a.new shaft.
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What would I need to replace in order to fix this leak ?
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For starters I have a 1999 F-250 5.4l changed all 4 ball joints about 15,000 miles ago. I have been hearing a grinding noise coming from the front end for the last month only when I turn left and at slow speeds. I was servicing the TC so I threw it in 4 wheel to check it and it wouldn't engage until I started moving. When it did engage it was a bad grinding/ clunking sound coming from maybe the differential.
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On my way to see my folks and I started feeling a vibration like driveshaft or wheel bearing between 45-55 mph then at about 75 then BOOM! Pulled over and found a pool of ATF thought my stock 4R100 just bit the dust but looking at it the fluid is coming from the front driveshaft at the Tcase. My hubs are unlocked and my ESOF is in 2HI but I assume my tcase was locked. Also since the tcase is probably screwed I'm goin to do the 271 with manual hub swap, how hard that is?
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Proper alignment and re-installation of the front spline on the rear driveshaft of my 2015 F350.
I removed my rear driveshaft recently (it slipped right out upon removal without any force or resistance), and I'm getting ready to re-install it again this weekend, but I've noticed that one of the grooves between the array of male splines on the shaft itself appears to be slightly different than the rest - it seems to be slightly wider. It even has a white-colored stripe of paint down the full length of the groove as if it were denoting it as being somehow different from the rest?
Problem is, when visually inspecting the splines on the inside of the receiving yoke (the part that the spline fits into), I do NOT see any such differences. In other words, it doesn't appear that there is only ONE way to properly insert the front splined-end of the driveshaft. What am I missing here?
Is the front splined-end of the rear driveshaft intended to be inserted into the yoke in ANY position around the dial? Or is there only ONE specific position or orientation that it is intended to be inserted or installed? NOTE: I've seen references elsewhere on-line that seem to indicate the need for proper alignment when there are multiple U-Joints, and maybe this is a part of it (?), but I'm not quite sure which U-Joints to consider or how to interpret such an "alignment".
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I have a 2011 f250 sd that I removed the front grill and noticed 3 of the clips that hold the lower part of the grill in (bolts on the top) are broke. I went to the local Ford dealer for the clips and was told I have to buy the whole complete grille for it. The parts breakdown doesn't show the clips sold individually from the grille.
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Rear-most connection before pumpkin, need to replace the U-Joint. I got the four bolts out at the flange but the shaft won't drop. I beat on the connection a bit, not enough to hurt though. What am I missing? How the heck do I get this apart and drop the shaft to replace the U-Joint???
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When I bought my 05 350 dually it had been wrecked, the rear diff was under the bumper and most of the rear suspension, including the back part of the rear drive shaft was in the bed of the truck. I have gotten everything back in place, and have driven the truck for a few weeks, but I knew I was going to have to replace the ujoints because there was visible damage to one of the caps. I have also had a vibration at about 45 mph. I had no way of knowing how the original driveshaft was oriented at the slip yoke so I went with best guess. Now in my research I read that if the driveshaft is not put back exactly in the same position vis a vis the slip yoke it will be out of balance.
Also if the drive shaft is dropped it is scrap, and if I have any lift on the truck {it had 4 inches when I got it} the whole thing will shake itself to pieces. Most of the answers to other drive shaft questions talk about taking things to a good driveshaft shop. No such thing here in the vast stretches of My state. I am pretty much on my own as far as building or repairing this thing. Is there any way to determine how the shaft was originally oriented? I also have some damage on the end of the yoke and will have some trouble getting the ujoint apart. Is the shaft now junk? And if I get an ebay replacement, how do I tell if that shaft is in the right orientation?
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I want to and went to buy a new 2012 F350 leftover - everything is good except that Ford.com says the truck was initially put into service In September of 2012 and therefore my warranty will expire in September of 2015 instead 2016.
Dealer says it's an error and will be corrected AFTER I buy the truck, so far I have been unable to get a straight answer from Ford.
Any information about being able ot change the original date a vehicle is put into service ?
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We've gone through pretty much every other option as to the vibration on take off and other high torque situations and have pretty much settled on the the driveshaft as the issue. I added traction bars recently thinking that the old leaf springs just aren't up to the job anymore. That seems to have worked some but it's still there. We've gone through the rear diff also and that's good. I'm looking at options for replacement of the shaft. What are the current thoughts on one piece shafts? Is aluminum the better option?
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Is there some sort of fix for this?
You know, you get in the truck and lean on the center "arm rest" to get better situated. After a while the constant abuse brakes something and now the armrest is now floppy
FYI, this in an 04 crewcab F350
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My outside, driver side front door handle is busted. I was about to order a new one from Rock Auto, and came across this-
DORMAN Part # 80645 {#7C3Z3622405APPTM} Front Left; Paint To Match
DORMAN Part # 79306 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Front Left; Black; Textured Finish; From 3/15/99
What is the difference here? Is something different on the early 99's?
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damn motor or something broke and of course its fully open. any tricks to disengage from powered sliding system? just need to get by for a bit til i can get to the dealer.
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I was trying to replace the output sensor in my 5r110 when it broke off in the housing.
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The terminal (+) on the passenger side battery broke, and I see is a 1 piece cable and terminal all together.
Where to get that cable on how create a new one?
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Truck would have a miss that went away when warmed up past 180. Ficm voltage was low so I got a new one from diesel tech ron. After I installed it The truck would crank for maybe 5-6 turns then lock up and kick the starter out. The starter broke away from the motor from the kickback. I got a new starter in and set up my scangauge 2. In the few turns of the motor i can do before it kicks out, ficm is at 48.5 koeo and cranking, ipr at 14.4, and the icp shoots up to 1100. The ficm sync wont come on and I m stumped what to do next. Dont want to start throwing new sensors at it. 2004 f250 6.0 ...
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I have a 200 f250 v10 srw 4x4.. I've replaced the auto front lockers with warn premium manuals. I cannot get power to the front wheels. The lockers appear fine. I hear the actuator function when I activate 4x4. Whats the possibility of a bad transfer case or front diff and how do i check? I've searched but there seems to be a lot of non-answers.
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Ive got a 2002 f250 Sd 4x4 with 93000. Im getting severe vibration from the front drivers side at highway speed. I thought it might be a warped rotor but i cant feel it in the brake pedal, when I put the brakes on. How can you tell when the hub bearing assembly is going bad? The truck doesnt pull to that side either. I can hear it, and feel it more when i'm going around highway corners. When im driving through town, I can hear a "clunk,clunk,clunk" noise coming from that side also.
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I don't know if this is even a problem or not. Do the front brakes get hot on the one ton dualy? I wouldn't have even noticed it except when I went to the car wash, when I sprayed water on the tires and rims to wash them, I noticed steam coming off the front brakes. Think I have a problem or not? I can put it into "drive" and it rolls freely. It doesn't feel like anything is sticking.
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I have a 2000 F250SD 4x4 that has developed a nasty front end noise. I originally thought it was a suspension issue (seems like bumps in the road cause the noise but not always, turning does not cause it) but everything seems good. Steering is tight and there is no 3 and 9 oclock movement. Ball joints also seem good with no 12 and 6 movement. I have jumped up and down of the front bumper and cant recreate the noise either, removed the sway bar and the noise is still there. The only strange thing I notice was that with the truck in 2wheeldrive and the hubs unlocked I can turn the front drive shaft and the drive's side axle spins but the passenger side only turns intermittently. I'm sure this isn't right so I'm looking for diagnosing the cause. Since none of these parts should be moving while driving in 2wheeldrive could this also be the cause of the noise?
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I just hit a pothole on my way home just now and now my front right caliper is sticking. It happen about 10min from my house. As soon as i hit the pothole I can feel my truck pulling to the right and felt like there was some resistance when i was driving. I got home and peeked my head in the wheel-well and i can smell the brakes burning and smoking a little. How would hitting a pothole cause a caliper to stick. Is there anyway to unstick it or am i gonna have to change that caliper out...
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