Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Front Disc Brake Caliper Pistons Won't Go Back In
Apr 4, 2015
2001 F250 SD diesel. Brakes have been working fine with no pulling. They just started to squeal recently so I knew it was time for some new pads.
I'm having a problem that seems to plague me often when I try to replace disc brake pads. I can't get the twin pistons to go back in to allow room to get the new, thicker pads in.
I unscrewed the cap to the master cylinder and used a spreading tool (that came in a brake kit from Advance Auto Parts) to compress the pistons. No movement.
I put a lot of force on it. No piston movement.
I unscrewed the bleeder screw and tried again. No movement.
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I pulled into my driveway after a 30 minute drive and smelled burning brakes. The right front was the culprit so I took a garden hose and cooled it down. The next day I remove the caliper and one of the pistons fell apart. So I need a new caliper and trying to decide if I buy after market or go with Motorcraft? I think the rotor, caliper, and pads are original since I the rotor is stamped Ford and the caliper bracket has TRW and Ford markings.
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I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
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I know this has been talked about many times and how to solve the issue but thought I would ask some other questions too. Earlier in the summer, I did grease the slider pins as preventative maintenance. I don't drive my truck all that much and when I used it yesterday, (about 30 minute drive) I came home to burning brake smell. I'm wondering if enough heat would cause the caliper to go bad? Should I just grease the pins again or change out some parts?
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03 f350 4x4. New front calipers and pads.
Wondering if there's a 'trick' to getting the front brake pads into the caliper . Those damn springs kept popping out. I'd get three of the four ends into place in the pad holes then one would pop out while I'm trying to get the fourth in.
After about a hour of trying every different way that I could think of, another set of hands came by and with four hands holding things in place, it finally did the trick.
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My 18 year old launched the little wire spring thing that applies pressure for the brake pads on front disc brakes. Could have gone in to neighbor's yard! Actually lost one on each side. He put it all back together without one on each side. I said it would still work fine. What's the deal really? Can't be that important are they?
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I am a few DAYS into a project changing my ball joints on my 2001 F250SD 4wd.
Latest issue is I can't get the brakes back on. One of the pistons was pressed out making replacing the calipers onto the rotor impossible. Fiddling with things has only made it worse.
The higher piston is stuck extended, and the other piston doesn't even budge.
The truck is our only vehicle, and I have been working on it since Tuesday night. It looked like it was going to be done today, but I can't put it all back together now.
That piston will not move. I've tried opening the bleeder and taking a clamp to it but all I get it a few more drops of fluid, no visible movement.
A while ago it looked like this. I got it to move in a little, but it is firmly stuck.
I'm wondering if I can pull it all the way out and clean/sand polish it. Can I use a quick-clamp on the rubber section of brake line to isolate the calipers so I can pull the piston out without draining all the brake fluid from higher in the system? And what do I do about the other piston that doesn't seem to be moving at all? Grab with big pliers and twist/pull?
Some of us just have a knack for finding layer upon layer of problems on projects...
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One of the pistons in my driver side (UK) front brake caliper is sticking, so I've bought a second hand caliper just to fix the problem until I come to sell my pri in a month or so.
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About a year ago, I had my right rear brake caliper lock up on my F350 dually. The shop said it can happen and replaced both rear calipers. Last week I started to hear something from the rear and within less than a a few days, before I could get to a shop the noise increased and when I looked the rotor had been gouged on the right rear.
I cannot see the left rear rotor to compare as the wheels don't line up on that side to see through. So my question is this. Could it be the caliper failure was a symptom and not the cause. Maybe a proportion valve or something that could affect the pressure on that one wheel.
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My 1999 F250 right rear brake caliper will not release. I replaced the caliper, caliper mounting hardware, pads, rotor, emergency brake pads, and I bled the system. For some reason the right rear remains activated when my foot is not on the brake pedal. The other three wheels appear to be functioning normal.
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I just hit a pothole on my way home just now and now my front right caliper is sticking. It happen about 10min from my house. As soon as i hit the pothole I can feel my truck pulling to the right and felt like there was some resistance when i was driving. I got home and peeked my head in the wheel-well and i can smell the brakes burning and smoking a little. How would hitting a pothole cause a caliper to stick. Is there anyway to unstick it or am i gonna have to change that caliper out...
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Is this repairable or would it be better to just replace it ? Ive never rebuilt one of these.
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The wife and I ventured out last Friday evening to run a few errands. When we returned to the house and pulled into the garage, we both smelled burning brake pad. I felt the rear wheels, the drivers side was too hot to touch.
Dragging brake caliper. I got online and reserved a drivers side caliper and a set of pads at NAPA. Saturday morning I removed the caliper. Much to my surprise, one of the caliper pistons was broken into multiple pieces.
I took the offending caliper to NAPA and picked up the new caliper and a set of pads.
Side note - NAPA seems to think the 2007 trucks have calipers that mount in front of the axle, not behind the axle. They will try to sell you a passenger side caliper and tell you it is a driver side caliper. It will bolt up fine, but the bleeder valve will be at the bottom of the caliper instead of the top. You'll never get the air out of the caliper.
Got back home, bolted up the new caliper and pads, then bled the system. All worked well.
I decided to throw new pads on the passenger side brakes as well, since I had 2 remaining. I took off the passenger side caliper, much to my surprise I found a cracked and broken piston on that side also! Another run to NAPA to pick up another caliper. Installed, bled the system again, all working well.
Now, I have never seen a cracked and broken caliper piston like this, let alone one on each side of the rear axle. What might have caused this? About a year ago I had a shop install new backing plates. The pads and calipers are about 3 years old, same shop installed those.
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one of my f350 super duties has had the right rear brake caliper and slider replaced 4 times in less than a year. it has just gone for the fourth time today. i called ford who, after a long phone call, said it could be the metering valve. i have looked everywhere for this valve.....no luck. so i called them back and he said it was part of the HCU. after a few minutes, he finally told me it was also called the ABS module.
my question is..........can i just replace this metering valve or do i have to replace the whole unit?
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My question is my abs light came on so I stuck my computer on it. Said right rear , we'll we all know on a 2007 6.0 f350 4X4, the there's only one sensor on the pumpkin, so I replaced it and cleared the code. Abs light came back on once I started driving, week ago my right front caliper stuck and got very hot, could that read bad for the rear of the front went bad? Will pull plug and make sure I didn't bend any pins.
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I have a 2000 f250 4x4 with 4 wheel abs. The front passenger side caliper keeps locking up while I'm driving and won't release and when I hit the brakes it pulls hard to the drivers side. I have put two calipers on the passengers side and put new brake lines on.
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1999 F350 4x4 dually. Replacing brakes front and back. Rotors, Pads, and hoses. On the left front put rotor back on and torqued down hub nuts on rotor. Then caliper mounting bracket wouldn't fit back between mounting bracket and rotor. Loosened the hub nuts on rotor, and fit mounting bracket in place. Then torqued down the hub nuts again, and rotor rubs on mounting bracket and rotor/hub won't turn.
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I own an '05 Prerunner with 56k miles. Had the front pads replaced and turned the rotors last Spring.
Now, after sitting for awhile, as I back up the front brakes squeal. (Sounds like a rock in a caliper its so loud.)
Toyota has a TSB to fix this.
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Having a problem with calipers again/still seems like always. Replaced all calipers twice in 86K miles on a 2000 f250 crew 4x4 because of stuck calipers. Replaced brake hoses and all hard lines in the rear about 2 years ago. My problem now is the left front caliper is not squeezing hard enough to stop the truck evenly. (pulls to the right) The rotor had some rust from sitting and after driving a for a while the rust is not completely gone as you would expect. Replaced caliper bled a couple of times. Caliper looks to be getting pressure enough to bleed and can see it move when brakes applied when engine not running. I don't have experience with Proportioning Valves but do you think that is the problem and how do I fix it?
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I need to do a brake job on the front of my 04 Elantra, how to reset the caliper piston. I've tried the traditional c-clamp method but can't get the clamp to grip well on the non-pad side because of the caliper shape.
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I bought my first vehicle last October, a '99 F-250 with a 6.8 V10. I later found out (AFTER hauling a big load of rocks in a dump trailer) that one of the bottom leaf springs was broken. So this winter I have been thinking on what I want to do about it when it warms up. This is pretty much on top of the "to do" list for my truck. I did make a thread about putting 1 ton springs under it, but I think I'll just stick with the regular 3/4 ton springs. So now this is where I have another question, and I think this pic will tell some of it:
Now I'm not sure if those rear springs are stock, but that rear end is way the heck up there! The truck itself is not level, the front looks to be correct height, but not the back. A buddy at school and I were talking about a leveling kit for the front. But the more I look at it, I think the rear end should come down. I don't want to get bigger tires, as I just put brand new Transforce AT's on the back and plan to put new ones on the front in the near future.
Another question of mine is, would this have been a truck ordered just for pulling a camper? It has holes for a fifth wheel hitch in the bed, the rear end sits high, and it didn't come with a tow package. The PO told me that he put the receiver hitch on it. I'm fixing up stuff on it one thing at a time. Springs just happen to be next on the list.
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