Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Front Brakes Pull One Side
Apr 4, 2017
Truck pulls to the left while braking, pretty bad. So, pulled the front right wheel off thinking the pins are stuck again as last year. Bottom pin was fine, top pin pretty gummed up but not froze so I cleaned it up good, used thin layer of the good stuff, put back together and test drove........same thing. Pulls left upon braking just as bad as before. Caliper pistons seemed fine, didn't take much to compress them either.
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I recently took delivery of a new 2012 F250. It was a cab chassis, we had a utility bed and lift gate installed from the upfitter along with heavy rear springs. From day one the truck would pull left when the brakes were applied. The brake pedal also feels mushy, not firm. It will firm up when I pump it. I could also smell burning around the left front of the truck when I would get out of the cab. Hot brake smell. Took it to the dealer with only 400 miles on it and they replaced the front pads and turned the rotors, and gave it back. In relatively few miles the problem was right back again.
Took it back to the same dealer last week with 1200 miles on it now. This time they say they replaced the rotors. I went and picked it up it this morning. Within 5 miles drive of the dealership I can tell the brakes are still bad. Now, it will kind of do a "head fake" when the brakes are applied, pulling slightly left or right, before deciding which way it wants to pull. It will pull right or left now during firm braking. And the brakes were stinking by the time I had it back to them. I turned around and took it right back to them again. Brand new F250?
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Truck is 2007 6.0L 4 door F-250 FX4
So this started after some High water encounters around my area. All freshwater. Went to the store and then i notice the truck pulling Left and got home and checked brake temps and the driver front and rear were over 400*F passenger side was 150* or less. No trailer no load in the bed. I decided to clean everything. Pads are worn but still have life.
Rotors showed some signs of where the pad is dragging Not bad though just a small area close to the top hat. I cleaned pads, carriage, and clips and reinstalled everything with some anti seize on the edges of the pads where the clips are and at the same spots on the carriage.
Thought it was ok but the after more water and a day or two sitting the same thing happened again. It is only the drivers side and it's both front and rear. I am stumped on this one. Two calipers going bad at once? I need to tow a boat on Monday So I have got to fix this.
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I use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
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I don't know if this is even a problem or not. Do the front brakes get hot on the one ton dualy? I wouldn't have even noticed it except when I went to the car wash, when I sprayed water on the tires and rims to wash them, I noticed steam coming off the front brakes. Think I have a problem or not? I can put it into "drive" and it rolls freely. It doesn't feel like anything is sticking.
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was going to do a brake job on my f250 light duty and the rotors won't come off. At first I thought they were rusted on but after looking at them it looks like the studs are attached to the rotor. Need to confirm this because the new rotors I got don't have the hub attached. Don't know if it's the wrong part or what?
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I have a 2007 F350 XLT, Super Cab, chassis cab, V-10, 4x4. I ordered it new, it now has 97,000 miles. It is equipped with a 9' aluminum flatbed. I tow it behind my motorhome and also carry a truck camper (not when towing it!).
I don't think the front brakes are working 100%. I have 2 sets of wheels and tires (19.5s for hauling the camper). Every time I change over, I check the brake pads for wear. Over the first 80,000 miles there was very little wear on the rear pads. In 2014 I had almost a complete brake failure while traveling. I took it to a Ford dealer, and they determined the brake booster was bad. They replaced the booster and flushed the brake system. I didn't think the brakes felt right afterward, but I carried on. By 95,000 miles, the rear brakes were worn out. I feel like the rear brakes are doing most of the stopping now, thus wearing out much faster than they were.
I just ordered a set of service manuals for the truck (9.5 years late on that!) hoping to figure out something. I like the truck, it meets my needs, and I hope to keep it quite a while longer. I took it in to the local dealer to replace a leaking rear pinion seal. They found and replaced the worn pads. I trust them to the extent that the pads were worn, as I had already noticed an acceleration in wear. Local dealer that replaced the pads has no idea what could be up. They did clean and lube the front calipers at the same time, but I noticed no difference in brake feel. Stopping power is definitely worse than before the brake failure/ booster replacement.
What might cause this? The only things that come to my mind is a problem with the proportioning valve or maybe the master cylinder. I don't know much about the details of the ABS system. Is there anyway that might be causing the issue? I would rather not just start throwing parts at the problem...
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Had an issue pop up today while driving. Heard a bit of a wierd soft grind sound under dash while letting off the brake at a light to go. Upon applying brake again it was ok (slowing early to a red). Then lifted foot off and applied again. It was then the pedal was hard (ish) to push but was still safely slowing the eX.
Then as I slowed more, the pedal went a bit further down and I felt the ABS pulse through the pedal. Very light braking by this point. There was also a little bit of a pull to the right. Pulled over. No leaks, visual inspection done.
Held my foot firmly on brake. It didn't move to floor, so I know there wasn't a leak in hose or anything dangerous.
Drove cautiously to my destination, repeating same scenario until I came to the side streets. Having lots of snow here I was able to push pretty hard and have the pedel become hard to push, while still locking the brakes up into a skid. I did, however, notice the rears would lock, NO ABS feedback.
No ABS warning light on dash.
I could drive pretty quick, hit the brakes hard and all was well until 15mph or so, then the pulsing would start. Pedal got hard (er) to push. Quick stops and really slow slow down stops. All with a little pull still to the right. Pedal was always harder to push back down the second brake application (one after the other, not the next stop light). Possible ABS Sensor issue?
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I have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
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The pads were replaced 5000 miles ago. Today the truck is acting hard to go, brakes are squealing, and I noticed a hot brake smell. I got home, grabbed a remote thermometer gun and the front rotors are 130 degrees, the back ones are 650 and 700 degrees! Super hot. I'm going to NAPA for new calipers and pads. I hope that fixes it.
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Ive got a 2002 f250 Sd 4x4 with 93000. Im getting severe vibration from the front drivers side at highway speed. I thought it might be a warped rotor but i cant feel it in the brake pedal, when I put the brakes on. How can you tell when the hub bearing assembly is going bad? The truck doesnt pull to that side either. I can hear it, and feel it more when i'm going around highway corners. When im driving through town, I can hear a "clunk,clunk,clunk" noise coming from that side also.
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Took the truck out the other night, got to town felt the slight drag but nothing alarming, got out of the truck and could smell it, rear drivers side rotor glowing red, pass side not glowing, pressed park brake then released, driver side freed on its own, pass side sticking, replaced pass side rotor and pads, found nothing out of the ordinary... Ford F250 4x4, 2005 ....
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Have 2001 F-250 7.3 PSD, automatic, ESOF (had to replace the original hubs with Warns)have kept up the maintenance,oil, grease, ATF fluid & filter, truck has been virtually trouble free. About 2 weeks ago I decided to go across an area of the lawn, as I was going (in 2 wheel drive)I felt the tires spin a little so I stopped got out and locked the hubs, got back in truck turned t-case to 4 high. had to rock the truck out of a damp area but nothing really.
So I got back to where I came in at (in reverse about 100') stopped put it back in 2 wheel drive, tried to go forward, very difficult, sluggish, got back in driveway had to back the truck in, will not go forward at all now. Checked all fuses, rapped the the t-case motor, no codes. So I thought I'd move the ruck, have a winch that will pull it out by the barn, I could not even move the truck forward by pulling it with a winch. As I said have never had any problems with truck. Transmission fluid is good, clean no burnt smell.
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Problem started with the front end shaking a little bit when braking like the rotors needed turning. Then the brakes began to intermittently hum when stopping. Then my ABS light came on. Put the truck up on the stands and disassembled the brakes on both sides. The ABS sensor was chewed up on the driver side. The less than year old hub felt sloppy so I changed it. Put everything back together.
New hub came with new ABS sensor. Went for a test drive ABS light is gone and I no longer shake or experience the hum when applying the brakes. However now when I go to stop right before I come to a complete stop the driver side (new hub/spindle side) I hear what sounds like the grade school class clown making a fart sound with his mouth, and the truck pulls to the driver side. Is the ABS system malfunctioning or is this a caliper issue? Calipers look like they are OEM.
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I have a 2004 super duty diesel 6 with electrical trouble dash lights stopped working put in new fusses where needed still no dash lights but now truck starts and runs ok but will not shut off unless I pull ignition.
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2011 F-350 XL, I can hear a squeal coming from the front brakes when rolling forward slowly, believe the pads are dragging on the rotors. If I touch the brake pedal the squeal stops as it does when I turn the wheel. Took the calipers off and greased the slide pins and put it all back together, still got the squeal. What don't I know???
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The used 2004 F-350 I bought has developed a driver's side front end howl between 45 and 60 mph over the last 1000 miles. I tried all the standard stuff, rebalanced tires, rotated tires, put on a set of tires from a friend's F-350, replaced wheel bearings, replaced ball joints and nothing has worked.
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My daughter has this truck and I was driving it the other day I noticed it misfiring when the trans shifts down under a slight pull and/or going up hills. It looses power and speed when this happens but if you back off, it smooths out when it shifts into overdrive. I haven't had it to a mechanic to check any codes yet.
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My 18 year old launched the little wire spring thing that applies pressure for the brake pads on front disc brakes. Could have gone in to neighbor's yard! Actually lost one on each side. He put it all back together without one on each side. I said it would still work fine. What's the deal really? Can't be that important are they?
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2011 f250 6.2. put it in the shop to have the rotors turned, and front brakes while they were under there. Now it pulls to the right whenever you apply the brakes. Can smell brakes on the left front after a short drive time. Replaced that caliper and it's still doing the same thing. I'm stumped at this point.
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I'm looking at purchasing a 2003 F-350 from a Ford Dealer, Drove the Vehicle last night and the Gear shiftier was very tight and hard to pull down. Is this a real concern? The Sales guys said its better to be stiff rather than sloppy. But they will say anything, right. The vehicle is a deal and so I'm looking to find out why.
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