Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Front AC Is Blowing Ambient Temp Air
May 26, 2016
Took the Ex in today because the front AC is blowing ambient temp air. I had them re-charge the system and they tell me no leaks were found but the air never blew cool. Took it in today and they just suggested the following.
AC Manifold P&A LAB 3.0 5C72 190850 DA
68oz R134 P&A LAB 1.0
AC Oil/Dye Kit P&A
Have you ever had to do this kind of work? Is this an easy task to do?
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I have the 2012 XL F-250 6.2 v8 , I have an ambient (outside air) temperature sensor that needs replacing, I ordered it and was told it is located in the passenger side mirror from the parts guy, there is a tap in the bottom of the mirror to access it, looking for a replacement type video link of how to do this, as I am not finding one via youtube, pulling the tab off on the bottom of the mirror I am not really seeing the part I have as a replacement in the mirror.. This is the XL version/work truck so ALL manual mirrors....
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My CC display shows all icons on the right regardless of settings (see pic). The temperature setting and outside temp will not come on.
The second issue is that my front blower starts to lose velocity and sounds strange on long road trips.
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took the Ex in today because the front AC is blowing ambient temp air. I had them re-charge the system and they tell me no leaks were found but the air never blew cool. Took it in today and they just quoted me the following.
AC Manifold P&A LAB 3.0 5C72 190850 DA - 68oz R134 P&A LAB 1.0 - AC Oil/Dye Kit P&A
Is this an easy task to do?
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I have noticed that in the past 1-2 months my trans probably has just get to 150*. Even on warm/hot days. Lately its just been 120-140 all day every day.
Can this cause any problems? It used to go up to 150-170 when warm, now it takes a hot day to get there.
I assume its fine, but just checking because I have, admittedly, neglected my trans fluid.
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I have a 16 with a 6.2. Truck has less than 1k on it but the tranny seems to run hot. What do these run at?
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this doesn't make any since to , what's going is, sometimes the AC starts blowing warm air, I found out if I goose it I can hear what sounds like the damper door slamming shut, then AC starts blowing cold again. I changed out electric vacuum pump, but it still does it, starting to get worse & its hot.
Truck is a 2002 f250 powerstroke, the way I understand it, is only thing vacuum pump is supposed to control is AC & 4 wheel locks, my truck is only 2wd. I don't understand why when when I goose it ,it goes to working, what can I do to fix this.
I just found out the " heat and cool "adjustment is electrical, not vacuum, it goes to something under dash, but what it is, heat strip, reastat(sp)??? where and what damper am I hearing. It is not like heater is on ,not that hot, feels like ambient temp, I am at a loss...
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I have followed the vacuum lines but don't see any holes or cracked lines. I dont have the ESOF hubs so that is ruled out. Also checked the connector on the vacuum pump to make sure it still had power. Everybody says that when I turn the key to acc I should hear the vacuum pump running. I don't or do I feel it moving. Am I on the right track? I don't want to replace if not bad. Do all vacuum pumps run on keyed power? I honestly don't remember hearing it run before but that doesn't mean anything with my memory.
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My problem had been intermittent for last few days. I have a Ford Crew Cab - 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel. The ford store told me it would cost hundreds of dollars to chase this short- to wait til it finally burns out then - bring truck to them.?
My fuse # 45 a 10 AMP fuse . Keeps blowing out. This fuse controls the gauges on dashboard and fuel peddle. I can start engine and if gauges come up like they should- I can place into driver - and give engine fuel from peddle- gauges down dead and no fuel go to motor. It just idles and still runs and will still move forward or backward. But only at idle speed.
I could replace blown fuse - #45 - 10 amp and it would a the first few times would go and work normally.
Now everytime I replace fuse it blows fuse - sometimes after putting 10 or more fuses in- one might work until I stop or put into park. Then fuse blows again??
Last night and today it took no less than 20 - 10amp fuses to get close to home and end up straight wiring with a small piece of electrical wire - severing as a jumper- it ran great - til I stop at mail box and got mail - saw slight smoke and pulled wire quickly out and idled down driveway to house..
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I put in the X codes and it doesn't show. The icon is on the screen but no reading for temp shows up. The truck is a 2008 with the 3V V10. Maybe verify the codes for me?
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2001 f250 5.4L v8. Engine temp seems really low. The gauge is reading barely above the cold in normal range. The heater is only blowing out 75 degree air at the warmest. It gets to its normal temperature with in 15 minutes even when its real cold out. I live in Minnesota and its been a really cold winter so having hot heat would be nice. I just bought this truck at the beginning of the winter. Whats going on?
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I recently purchased a ScanGuage II and installed it in our '09 F-250 SD 5.4 slush-a-matic with 4.30's and 31 1/2" tires. This unit is primarily used for towing and I wanted to keep an eye on the trans fluid temp. By the way, I really like the ScanGuage II. It gives me real time fuel mileage, coolant temp and accurate trans fluid temp, among many other things.
My question for you guys that pull your trucks hard on a regular basis is this, what is the maximum trans fluid temp that I should allow the slush-a-matic to rise to? I towed our 9000# 5ver 200 miles one way to Indy for the 500 over Memorial Day weekend and the highest TFT was around 180 to 185 max. It was under 180 most of the time.
What are the upper parameters of TFT that his tranny will endure and still live a long trouble free life?
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So I just bought a 2012 F250 with 28,300 on the clock. I was driving it home yesterday (500 miles) and I noticed that every time I shut the truck down the external temp display would display -40 F at start up and then gradually climb to whatever the ambient temp is, around 60F but in that 500 mile distance it seemed to be stuck at whatever the high was and not drop unless I stopped the truck and powered it off and we would start at -40 again.
Where I should start troubleshooting this? I have some factory powertrain warranty left but this will not fall under that so I need to fix it myself and there is nothing in the owners manual about this. It is a crew cab long box, with the 6.2, XL package but has all of the benefits of an XLT it just has vinyl floors.
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I need a replacement driver side door, towing mirror for a 2011 Ford F250 SuperDuty with turn signal, heated, electrically adjustable manual-extend and manual fold options. The truck VIN number is 1FT7X2B67BEC96261. The truck also has an Outside-Air-Temperature indication which is what I'm not sure about. It is my understanding that the Outside-Air-Temperature sensor may be in the side mirror. Looking for any info on the temperature sensor located on this truck? I found an aftermarket mirror while I can not afford Ford. However, the aftermarket mirror ad says it does not have Outside-Air-Temperature and I would like to keep that working.
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Started my truck the other day no problems,minute into the start truck shuts right off like someone turned key. Checked fuses , #30 fuse under the column was blown, replaced it and tried to start truck. No luck fuse keeps popping. After changing again i was able to get truck started for a second and POP goes the fuse?
1999 F550 superduty 7.3....
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1999 ford superduty keep blowing the 30 amp fuse under the dash, want let it start, why this is happening and the cause of it.
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I have 2002 F250SD, The horn just starts blowing by itself. Bump the horn switch and it stops for a couple of weeks. I've looked at the wires to the fuse box and no wires shorting out the horn wire. I read some very old posts but nothing conclusive was ever decided on, just a lot of guessing. The horn switch has always been sensitive.
Somebody said the air bag is warming up in the sun and expanding causing the horn to blow. Somebody said the horn relay, but in 55 years of working on trucks, I have never had a horn relay act like that. I'm told the horn relay is built in the back of the fuse box and it all has to be replaced. Some say the clock switch. I don't know what that is or where it is. I guess inside the steering wheel. Is it hard to replace?
Where do I go from here....
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Sitting in the house, heard a horn blowing and ran outside to find my F350's horn was blowing. When I pushed on the horn button on the steering wheel it quit. Couple of hours later, it started blowing again. Pushed the horn button to make it stop and removed the fuse so it would not start blowing again. Did a forum search, but didn't have any luck. Short in steering wheel?
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Why I"am blowing #19 fuse it is a 10 amp fuse. It is in the passenger compartment fuse panel. It controls the auxiliary powertrain control module (diesel only),Instrument Cluster, GEM Module, Overdrive Cancel Switch, Idel Validation (Diesel only), Overhead Console and Diesel PCM via Clutch. I would like to know where to start looking to solve this problom.
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My husband and I have 3 Excursions, V10, 6.0, 7.3 and I have a 6.0 250 crewcab. 3 of the 4 now blow air or heat from just the defroster unless your going at a slow speed.
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Got a little wild while i was in the trails the other day and was bouncing pretty hard and my headlight blew. Well now im on my third one and id suspect a short. This time it blew the bulb right apart so it must have got pretty hot. Any common problem areas i should look into before trying to figure this out?
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