Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Fog Light Mod Stays On With High Beam And Running Lights
Feb 10, 2015
All you need to do is pull out the head lite switch find the solid brown wire that is the running lights wire now find the yellow wire this is fog lights wire (these wires are on the gray plug ) you need a 3" piece of wire and 2 blue wire connectors it slips over the wires no cutting any wires then slide wire in the other end of the blue connector after you jump them your fog lights will come on with running lights and will not go off with high beams...
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I have a 2001 f250 with factory fog lights. ive been researching to see if I can make my fog lights turn on with the high beams without pulling them out. My broke and cant pull it or it comes off, but will still work to turn head lights off and on. How to make them come on with the high beams?
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I was cruising my truck down the road and noticed that my high beam indicator light was very dimly lit. I wondered why this would all of the sudden come on at all if the high beams were not on so I pulled over and took a walk to the front of my truck to check my headlights. Sure enough the passenger light was very dim. (I must assume the high beam indicator light being dimly lit is also an indicator for headlight malfunction/burn out)
I figured out the plug has a keeper piece that is supposed to hold it in the bulb base but it was broken off and missing.
I went to the auto parts store to find some kind of fix. To my surprise they have a replacement plug for my truck. The down side is it costs $95 and it still had to be shipped! I decided I could figure something else out.
After I pulled the four 5.5 millimeter screws out of the headlight housing. I noticed there is enough room on either side of the light contacts to drill a hole thru the plug and the bulb to allow a pin to be placed thru both of them which would keep the plug and bulb socket from coming apart.
These are the pins or keepers I used.
A 1/16" drill bit did the job. I put the new bulb/socket and the plug together and drilled a hole on each side of the plug right thru the socket at the same time far enough back and at a width to avoid the contacts of the bulb socket and plug. (there is a rubber gasket in the plug that should be avoided but if you still knick it as I did you can fill the plug or the socket with dielectric grease that most car parts stores have and it will keep any moisture out but not effect the electrical current, do not use silicone, one day you will have to take it back apart for a bulb replacement or something.)
This is the bulb socket with the holes already drilled and the plug removed. This is what it looks like with the bulb/socket and the plug together and the keepers in place. And the back of the composite headlight housing with the assembly installed.
Make sure you install the bulb/socket and plug with keepers on the housing before you bolt the housing to the truck because there is not enough room to get your hands behind the housing to install the keepers with the housing bolted to the truck.
Since I replaced the stock bulb with a Sylvania Silver star I had to replace the driver side too so I didn't end up with a headlight being brighter or "whiter" than the other. Even though I was incredibly careful I still broke the plug on the driver side too! So now both of my headlights now have this mod on them.
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What color wire controls the high beams?
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I have a 2001 f350 v10 that has been giving me fits. has 88000 miles. cranks and starts when cold or fuel pressure is below 40 psi. SES light will flash when it stalls and fuel pressure goes from 30 while running to 40 and the fuel pump runs continuously when this happens and truck will not start. replaced crank sensor and fuel pump was changed about two months ago. if I relieve fuel pressure it will start and run for short time then stall and fuel pump stays on. all fuses are good. I am at a loss.
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I have a 2000 F-350 diesel and the electric vacuum pump went out. I bought a new one from napa and it would not stop pumping. Checked for leaks and found none. If I unplug the hose from the vacuum can the next day, you can hear it suck air so it seems I am holding vacuum. Problem is I burnt out the new pump in two weeks from running all the time. Bought another one and same problem.
So now I plug the electrical in and let it build up vacuum for a couple of minutes and then disconnect it so it won't burn out and I am good for days on vent controls and 4x4. If there has been a bad batch of pumps out there? I also unplugged the hose from the pump to the holding tank and put my finger over where the pump sucks and it still did not shut off.
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I was adding some more running lights today and tried to tie in to the front running/turn signal light. Next thing I know I hear a pop and now no turn signals, hazards or brake lights on my 99 F250 SD V10. My 3rd (center) brake light does work though when I press the brake, it's just the tail brake lights that dont work.
I can't find a blown fuse for the turn signals or brake lights (not really sure which fuse box it's in since the manual doesn't tell me what fuse is what)
I however did find what I'm guessing are the flashers behind the radio. What might have went wrong where before I start dumping money in to flashers and relays.
The next question is, can I jump in to the marker/turn signals and add another single LED light to them off the front? If I can which color wire does what?
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I just bought a 2012 Ford 4x4 F250 6.2 gas, when I get out of the truck the dome light/cargo light stay on for 9 to 10 minutes before they go out, someone said to spray the door latches and this should clear up, I have tried that and the lights do still stay on, there is an error code of left rear door ajar, my guess is something/sensor or switch has to be replaced, wondering what it takes for replacement/repair of the switch
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Problems my truck seems to be having for one thing sometimes when I'm going thru the gears (6 speed manual) the truck won't wind up all the way it's like it is rev limiting at about 2000 RPMS, been doing that for a while , it does that most of the time but not always. Problem #2 the anti lock lite stays on in the cluster, and just yesterday the service engine soon lite is now on, my truck is a 1999 F250 7.3 6speed manual with 77000 miles on it ...
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2013 F250 XL with factory towing package.
My camper and boat trailer do not have turning signal or brake lights when plugged into the round seven pin trailer connector. I have tried both the connector in the bed and under the bumper. I've also connected the trailers to other trucks and the lights work fine so I know the problem is in my truck.
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The brake light stays on all the time. It started 5+ years ago going out intermittently, then began going out more frequently for longer as the years went by, until now, where it stays on continuously (except for one small miracle where it cam back on during a short drive around town). I don't normally care if it stays on, but for the first time in 7 years I'm going on a long road trip and can not engage cruise control with the light on.
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2005 F250 4x4, manual locking hubs, ABS light stays on. Plugged it up, front sensors had a bad signal. Replaced both front sensors, still had light. Pulled out the sensors, cleaned the sensor rings the best we could with a little screwdriver. Installed the sensors, cleared the codes. Drove the truck a few miles, light came back on. Plugged it up, same codes. Removed the sensors and there was grease back on the sensor rings. Cleaned it up again, ran through the motions, drove it, light comes back on. Is there supposed to be grease on the sensor ring? It keeps coming back in every time it is driven. My next guess would be the hub bearings are going bad?
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The rear tail lights on my truck have been out for a while now. I wasn't doing much driving at night so it wasn't much of a bother but the new job is getting me home a little later and having to drive with my hazards on is getting old fast.
My radio wasn't working either and I disconnected it a while back hoping maybe it had something to do with my lights shorting out but no luck. It remains disconnected. Just in the past few days my front running lights have went out as well.
I've tested all fuses multiple times (and replaced a couple of them) and checked and replaced bulbs. My brake lights, headlights, dash lights and hazards all work fine. I have the trailer light hook up on the rear bumper and disconnected it at the wiring harness as well hoping it was the problem but it wasn't.
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99 f350 7.3... All lights working but running lights wont go off....
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I have a f250 super duty. I blew a brake line the main going to the rear. So the genius that I am I replaced the line an simple enough I decide hell why not replace the master cylinder too, so I did an I bleed the brakes an everything works jst fine but now the the brake light won't turn off I have tried everything not sure what could possibly cause the light to stay on. I will eliminate some suggestions, I bleed the brakes, the brake fluid is full, the level sensor is completely attached, the parking brake is not on, I pulled the parking brake completely out, even completely disconnected the sensor thinking it would turn off bu it didn't.
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My 08 F3 50 seems to be turning the lights on and off by themselves throughout the course of the evening and the day currently I am disconnecting the negative cable trying to trace back a bad ground I'm not exactly sure what I'm doing
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Had this issue for a while, but it doesn't seem to cause a problem. It's more of a curiosity than anything... Most of the time, the dome light operates as usual- close the door and the light stays on for a bit before shutting off. But about a quarter of the time, the light goes off immediately after the door is shut. It's done this the entire time I've owned the truck (about 2-1/2 years). Why?
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I bought a crew from a dealer, all the dome lights and cargo lights had the bulbs removed, so i put them back in and of coarse they all stayed on after you close the door, plus the door ajar light stays on when you are driving. I do notice the radio shuts off when you open the door after you turn off the ignition. Does that work on the same door switch, eliminating those?
Also are there switches on the rear doors also? Noticed that the radio isn't effected when you open a rear door. I tried to get the dealer to look at it a day after i took it home, a ford dealer at that, and they told me they tried to figure it out , and couldn't before they sold me the truck. Doesn't say much for their service department.
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I have a 2003 Ford F-450 with the 7.3 Powerstroke. The problem I am having is the dome light stays on, the map lights will not turn on, I have no door ding with the key in the ignition, and the radio wont turn on. If I press the clock button on the radio the clock comes on but the radio will not come on when I press the power button. What it may be? I already hosed the door latches with lubricant and that changed nothing. I checked all the fuses they are good.
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The warning in the title has been appearing for months. Push reset and the display message goes away but the orange light stays on. No rhyme or reason. Sometimes it's gone after a restart for a day or two. Sometimes it stays on no matter how many times the truck is shut down and restarted in a day.
So I finally took it into Ford for service today because the truck is still under warranty. They ask if the tires have been replaced. Obviously they have because I've got BFG KO2s that are a size or two bigger than stock. But I explained that the tires have been on for several months and that the issued did not present itself when the truck came out of the tire shop. It didn't happen until a couple of months later.
So they tell me that their tool can't even detect that any sensors are present and that they'll break down a tire to check and see that a sensor is there. Two & a half hours later they tell me that they've ordered a body control module and cut me loose with the truck. They'll call when the part is here.
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I just bought my 2016 super duty about 2 months ago, really liking it, got a couple questions- How do I turn off daylight running lights? When head lights are on, instrument cluster lights come off and on according to outside light levels, can I turn off this feature?
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