There are 2 metal straps going left to right between the rear seat mounts. They don't appear to do anything. The seat doesn't touch them. The mounts are bolted to the floor so they don't give support. What they are for?
View 13 RepliesMy brake fluid reservoir is real flimsy. I was checking fluids and noticed when I touched it, It felt like it was going to fall off.
View 7 Replies2012 f250 diesel Lariat 4dr 4x4. He called me today cause he knows I do all the work on my own F250 diesel. He has heated seats in the back and he said that they turn on by them selves and they won't turn off. He had to actually disconnect the wire harness to get the heating elements to turn off so his wife's friends wouldn't burn their bottoms in the middle of august is Texas.. Any ways, he said both sides are staying on and wouldn't turn off using the switch.
I'm not very familiar with the heated seat wiring, especially for the back seats. I told him their may have been a relay that went bad, but now I"m thinking that they much have a controller or something that is acting up. He said that the front seats are acting normal. Also, he has the touch screen and navigation upgrade as well as auto climate control, not sure if this stuff matters for the back seats though...
I thought i heard this yesterday when i left work but i was tired and said its in my head, THEN i go to leave right now and sure enough its a real sound, you can hear it very well through the front grill and then if you turn the volume up you can hear a ticking sound ever half a second or so, it also speeds up when i was pulling on the throttle cable. And after the truck fully warms up it goes away.......
View 14 RepliesWhat we have is a 2011 F-350 with the ambulance package (obviously) and it has started making a very annoying sound from the front end. It has been into two different Ford Dealerships and they have not been able to remedy this issue. What happens is, when we are backing and turning, the front end makes a bad metal on metal grinding noise. When going straight down the road no issue just turning while backing. I know this is an ambulance and has the ambulance package but I think from the cab forward should just be all ford right?
View 2 RepliesJust last night, out of the blue, I've got an odd rumble at idle. The noise goes away under load and any time the rpm's are up over ~1300. It sounds like metal on metal vibration, but I don't see any loose exhaust parts.
I've looked at threads saying possibly a broken flex plate. Other than the noise, would there be any other symptoms? I don't notice any loss of power. I suppose I could pull the inspection cover and take a look, but I don't have any experience with auto tranny's and don't really know what I'm looking for.
I have a loose, binding, metal on metal sound on my steering wheel shaft. I have removed the steering wheel, replaced the clockspring, because when I removed wheel clockspring was in pieces and I thought that might be the issue. Guess not, because I'm still having problem. Other than having to remove or replace the whole steering column...
View 2 RepliesI am looking at a left over 2015 F250XL, 6.2L, 4X4, Short Bed. It is a new vehicle, 320 miles, it came in a dealer swap so that was the transfer miles. Truck was built in December 2014.
Question: It has bucket seats with no console. Well, there is some small plastic thing that is a cup holder between the seats, but NO arm rest center console. Is this normal? Or did someone take out the center console/arm rest and swap it into something else, and just found something to bolt to the floor? The one that is there appears it could be a factory piece, but man alive is it cheap.
Also, why no fold up arm rest attached to the seat??? Ford did this in the past. Is there a bolt hole to attach an arm rest from another Ford bucket? One that you could fold up and down maybe?? You would have to make a hole in the fabric to use it, but someone should be able to go feel around for a threaded hole or something.
I have a 2014 f 350 super cab xlt. Ford design engineers should be ashamed. But really who has installed the older (2009 ish) ford seat in there trucks for a little more comfort? How much fabrication was needed? Hate to say it but if I cant put the older truck seats in I'm going to buy GMC. These seats really suck.
View 3 RepliesJust bought my f250 and trying to diagnose the power seats. Both the drivers and passengers seats will not move forward or backwards. All other functions are working perfectly. The motor is not engaging in either direction. The tracks are not jammed. I'm thinking its a switch issue but what are the chances both have the same issue. Is there a way to test the switches? Looking for a wiring diagram showing pin outs of each wire and their function?
View 4 RepliesI'd like to replace the back bench seats with something that has a headrest. Can I swap out the benchseat from a 2004 model and place it in my 2003 model?
View 4 RepliesJust bought a 2011 F450 king Ranch. really like the truck but the heated seats a REALLY slow to warm up and then just warm. I see that these work different than all the other heated seats I have used and use the blower motor to blow warm or cool air through the seats instead of an element under the seat covers. Is there anything I can do to get more heat? The blower filters look ok and will replace the when I can find a set. Tries without the filter and didn't see much of an improvement. Where is the heat element and is it east to get to?
View 2 RepliesI have an 2002 F250 super duty that has leather seats. The seats are power but not heated. I bought seats out of a Harley Davidson edition that are electric and heated. They have an extra plug that my truck don't have. How can I make the seat heaters work?
View 4 RepliesMy automatic shift selector was extremely loose. Wasn't the two bolts up behind the dash. Turns out that there is a metal cylinder with a cutaway that seems to have fallen out of the selector housing. One of the edges of this cylinder broke off as you can see in this pic:
What is this piece called and can I get a replacement at autozone/pepboys/ect?
I have a 2001 F350 with a 7.3 diesel and automatic trans. I purchased it about 100,000 miles ago. It is all stock as far as I know. The mileage on it was about 14-15 on the road and I decided to put a chip in it. I was somewhat leary of putting too much power to this old of a rig. I put a TS Performance chip in it. It seems to have more power. I am towing a 30 ft. Gulfstream Seahawk I think around 10,000 lbs. When I started up a hill it made a different noise like a screeching noise when I pushed it. When I back off a bit the noise goes away. When I put it back to stock setting the noise is not there just the normal downshift and increased RPM. Not sure how to describe the noise but sounds like a metal bearing type noise. I get the same rush of air or what ever that sound is when it changes back to a higher gear. Is this sound normal or what might it be. It sounds normal when not pressing it.
View 6 RepliesI may have got a few shavings in the engine while drilling and tapping a hole for my boost gauge on the Y pipe. I am sure I got 95% of the shavings out but am now worried about the 5% that may have fell inside.
View 8 RepliesI trying to see if this is something that is a easy fix or mayor work. Leak coming from that metal housing behind alternator. Does this housing came off? or do I need to take out the intake out? .
View 8 Replies2001 f250 7.3 crew
So, Saturday my abs lite comes on. Later that day I hear metal to metal sound for a couple of secs then it stops. Then the next day while driving I get intermittent sounds that sound like I'm dragging metal down the pavement. I see nothing but I'm thinking hub bearing. (Needle)
I remove the hub assembly from the knuckle and can find nothing wrong. I even picked up a new hub just on case. Now I'm stumped. Can't figure out what the sound was or is. Axle has a little play going into the housing but figure it would have due to the only thing holding it in place is the hub.
The only thing left in the area that could make the sound is major --the actual gears to to the front end. If the bearing isn't causing the metal grinding sound I've no other idea other than that....
I bored and tapped one of the spark plug holes in my Triton engine. And I used a long aluminum rod attachment for my air compressor to blow out the metal bits from inside the cylinder. I started with a full tank of air, and used it all up to try and get everything out that I could. But with my bore-scope I could see a lot left over along the edges of the piston. So two more times I filled up, and emptied the air tank (15 gallons, 150psi). Some more of the chips came out, but after the second time there were still some chips there, and the third time didn't work much.
My bore-scope doesn't have the best resolution, but I think there are a few chips that are stuck between the piston and the cylinder wall. Since there were only a few, and they are aluminum, I decided to do what I saw another youtuber do. I just started the engine for a few moments without the spark plug, so I might blow out any remaining chips (although he did it without first using compressed air at all.)
That was the first cylinder I bored, tapped, and installed an insert into. But for the other cylinders, I would like to avoid any metal bits left in the cylinder. But I can't think of any way to prevent some from wedging themselves between the piston and wall (if that's what is happening).
Coming back from a trip I got a e-brake light show up on the dash then noticed the signals stopped working and the heated seats no longer turn on. I scanned it with my AE and got a brake fluid sensor error come up but nothing about the signals .... is this a common problem or is there a connection between all this? 2003 F350 6.0L .....
View 2 Replies99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?