Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Fault Code P0442 (EVAP) Be Caused By ESOF Vacuum Leak?
Jun 23, 2017
I have 2 issues and wonder if they are related. I don't have a CEL but I'm getting a P0442 DTC with my code reader - EVAP system leak detected
Also, my ESOF doesn't work. The hubs will lock manually. Can this be related?
I've already cleared the code and it came back. My ESOF hasn't been working for a while but I just haven't had the time or motivation to look into it until now.
I tried the HVAC Test and there may be a slow leak in the system. I can get the vents to switch from defrost to face vents but it switches halfway back to defrost, both are on at the same time for 20 seconds, then it recovers and goes back to the face vents.
My 4wd relays seem to work as well.
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My 2009 F250 5.4 was throwing code P0442 - minor EVAP control system leak.
The first time it happened, the guy at the parts store checked it out, reset it, and said if it comes back, try replacing the gas cap.
The second time it happened, same thing.
I bought a Stant cap at my local parts shop, and had them reset it again. I don't like the Stant cap since it does not fit the retainer correctly, but it sealed fine.
However, the same code came back.
It took a smoke test to identify a leak from the vent tube on top of the fuel tank. The tube was replaced today.
If the code stays gone for a few hundred miles, I'm going to switch back to the original gas cap. I want to make sure the leak is gone before I change anything.
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I noticed that my 4WD is only working now when I manually lock the hubs in (they have that options!), and the air blows out the defroster when I shift, so it looks like I have a vacuum leak. Where are the typical leak points on a 2006 F250? What's the best way to confirm a leak (other than just replacing all of the hose)?
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I have a 2011 F-250 6.2l with a P0456 code. Is there a common fix for this issue?
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Truck has been neglected for a while so this upgrade/repair I installed Powerstop brake rotor, caliper, bracket and pads. New Timkin wheel bearing, Moog U-Joints, and new inner/outer axle seals. Also replaced all the brake hoses and the remaining original rusty brake lines. About a month before I replaced the failed Auto/Manual vacuum operated locking hubs with Mile Marker units, which do not need the vacuum line, the drivers side was missing. and was letting water into the wheel bearing. So I decided to plug them and remove the vacuum lines from under the hood as well.
If there is interest I can get pictures of the vacuum lines, and what I changed under the hood. That was pretty self explanatory.
Could not find a google search for the thread size of the vacuum nipple in the knuckle. It is a 3/8"-24 fine thread.
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I am in the process of rebuilding my front end and have found that the nipples that screw into the top of the knuckles for the ESOF system are rusted and need replacing. I'd like to keep the system as close to original as possible, but have had no luck in finding a replacement. What the appropriate Ford part number is or where I could pick up a suitable replacement. This would be for a 2001 F-250 4X4 with the V10.
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So I have had this code P0442 for a long time and I just kept clearing it. The attached picture (at an angle) shows the hole in the small line attached to the fuel neck filler exactly behind where the plastic wheel well cover touches it. Just ordered a new one from rockauto for about 65 shipped.
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CEL turned on this morning heading to work. Truck drove completely normal with no signs of altered performance.
Stopped by Autozone after work and they checked it with a code reader.
Came back with P0442 - "Purge Valve Solenoid"
Part sold with or without bracket.
Is this a common part to fail? How can I be sure it has truly failed? Is it acceptable to reset CEL and see if it fails again? If so, how do I reset? Where is part located?
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I've gotten the P0442 "small leak - intermittent" code and "service now" warnings on my 2007 2.0T Passat. I have also occasionally gotten the "check gas cap" warning and icon on the dash, but it always goes away quickly. The car runs fine. The VCDS scan shows as follows:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Part No SW: 3C0 907 115 S HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: --H14--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
Coding: 0404010A19070160
Shop #: WSC 24125 444 85663
VCID: 3041CBF8A31AF19890B
1 Fault Found:
001090 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0442 - 001 - Small Leak - Intermittent
[Code] ....
If I clear this code, it comes back within a day or two of driving, but not immediately. I have already replaced the gas cap and N80 valve. The other component I'm aware of possibly failing is the check valve. It's just downstream of the N80 valve, circled in red here:.
I put a vacuum on this part, and it had a very slow leak, losing about 3psi (starting from 20psi) every minute. That seems too small a leak for this to be a problem? Is this thing supposed to be absolutely air tight? Since this part is more expensive ($80) and bit more hassle to replace than the N80 valve, I'd like to know more about this before I just blindly replace it.
If this check valve isn't the problem, then what to check? Although the car runs fine, I need an inspection and would prefer to not have to clear the codes and hope for the best just before taking it in.
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so my girls car is throwing an evap code (P0442) small leak detected. I bought a new oem gas cap and replaced the purge valve solenoid under the hood. that didn't work, CEL still comes on about 100mi after clearing the code.
I have checked the rubber hoses that were attached to the purge valve solenoid when i replaced it and they are fresh, no dry rot or cracks that i can see. The hose on one side goes to a hard line that runs under the car to the back, the hose on the other side of the solenoid runs under the intake to the throttle body. That hose was fine as well. Connections were tight and i even put better clamps on the hose ends that attach to the solenoid. So I have ruled out that portion of the system (under the hood).
I also removed the rear seat to access the fuel pump. All those connections seem nice and tight, I don't smell any strong gas fumes indicating a leak so i don't think the fuel pump gasket is the problem either. Finally, i checked out the hard lines running under the car front to back and I see no apparent or obvious damage. I assume my next step is to pull off the rear passenger wheel well liner and asses the charcoal canister and the LDP connections, correct??
The last thing I will mention is, Idid notice the 2 fuel lines that attach to the fuel regulator are in pretty rough shape, however not leaking any fuel. Are both of these lines actual liquid fuel lines? I am thinking one of them is a vapor return which may be part of the EVAP system. If it's dry-rotted and leaking vapors could that be the culprit??
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Threw this code p0442 evap emission control small leak. I see its a popular code to have....
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This began as a troubleshooting exercise for a P0442 code (2002 model) indicating a leak in the evap emissions system. Often caused by simple things like a loose/poorly sealing filler cap. Not this time
It's a neat design, tucked away up in the fender well. Even sports a very effective stone guard (plastic shield) which hides all that tubing from view. But the shield also traps all the road salt and mud and packs it into the crevices between the tubes where it stays from one winter till the next. Even a powerful car wash probably can't dislodge the caked on mess once solidified.
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How to diagnose a vacuum leak without a vacuum leak diagnostic tool.
My ESOF won't engage, AC/heat blowers default to defrost - classic symptoms. And while we can leave without AC/heat, we really need the ability to engage 4x4 low, especially as we get higher into the Andes and the roads unsmooth.
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I have recently developed a vacuum leak on my 2002 F-350 V-10 under the passenger side of the dash. It is only audible when I am accelerating moderately to heavily or when the truck downshifts going up a hill. None of the vehicles HVAC or ESOF functions seem to be affected by this leak from what I can tell, but it's rather annoying to listen to this loud sucking noise every time I hit the gas moderately hard such as climbing a hill or merging onto the freeway. I don't know how I could search for this leak since it only happens when I'm driving and accelerating and not at a stop. What might be going on or where I should begin my search?
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When I put my 06 f350 in 4x4 my ac defaults to defrost. I assume this means a vacuum leak. My question is, is the white tube supposed to be open for air intake or plugged off with something?
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So I have an 05 f350 5.4 with the shift on the fly and the auto/manual locking hubs.. I already know I have a leak with the vacuum and I just use the hubs manually, then shift on the fly to activate the transfer case.
I went to use the 4wd the other night in a snow storm and I have no 4wd, light on the dash comes on and i can hear the transfer case clicking in when i hit the switch between 2wd and 4wd.
So I got under the truck while it was on the ground and manually locked the passenger side, Then tried spinning the axle and it wont spin freely, so obviously its locked.
Tried the same thing on the driver side and the axle spins freely while the hub is locked, So obviously the locking part of the hub is no good... So i guess my question is, even with just 1 wheel locking in the front, shouldn't I pretty much get 3wd? or am i missing something...will it not engage at all because both sides arent locked?
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2002 F250 SD 4X4 5.4L. 4.5 inch pro comp lift tire size 305/75/R16. K&N cold air set up. 208,000kms
I know the truck does horrible on gas but lately is been getting worse, maybe I am getting 350km to a tank. Mixed highway city driving. Sounds like I might have a vacuum leak somewhere but I have no engine light. I've had the truck since last year and put about 10,000km. on it done regular oil changes .. brake maintenance no motor work so far.
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How to diagnose a vacuum leak without a vacuum leak diagnostic tool.
My ESOF won't engage, AC/heat blowers default to defrost - classic symptoms. And while we can leave without AC/heat, we really need the ability to engage 4x4 low, especially as we get higher into the Andes and the roads become rough.
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My 1999 F 250 5.4 liter. I know I have a vacuum leak because whenever I accelerate the air conditioning coming from the vents switches to the defroster. So my question is how do I go about finding the leak? My hubs in the front are manual so I know I don't have lines going up there. I do have some mechanical capabilities I've changed water pumps alternators brakes etc. But never anything with vacuum lines or a/c.
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So I scored a real deal on a set of Michelin on same size 17" OEM wheels that were taken off a brand new 2017 F-250 at about 100 miles. I installed them on my F-350 and had no faults show up. The tires had been marked as to which corner they had come off of so I put them on the same corners of my truck.
After driving about 50 miles I got a "Tire Pressure Monitor Fault" code. I pulled out my owner's manual and followed the relearning procedure exactly but I get the two beeps and the fail retry message from the left front. I have tried three times and get the same result.
Looking for info if the 2017 F-250 sensors are compatible with the 2011 F-350? Have I overlooked something? I habitually manually check my tires anyway, is there a way to disable the TPMS? Is it time for the dreaded trip to the dealer?
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Truck: early 99 F-250 diesel lariat
I am trying to troubleshoot my ESOF not working. Let me start out by explaining the issue. A month or so ago it worked fine, and I took the truck in to get a damaged transmission and transfer case fixed. The shop tried to screw me out of a lot of money thinking I'm just some kid, but I know a fair amount about what the problem was so I called them out on it and they basically said tough and refused to give the truck back. Got the police involved and they got in trouble for fraud, but took sledge hammers to the transmission and transfer case to get back at me I guess.
So I took it to another shop to get a whole new transmission and transfer case. After all that, and also I removed the dash to replace a switch, the ESOF does not come on. The light for 4x4 comes on when starting the truck, so it works, it just does not come on when the switch is put on either high or low 4x4. The wheel hubs are also brand new and I tried in both free and lock and nothing. What to check? I'm thinking either they forgot to plug something back in when they installed everything, or maybe I messed up the switch itself when I pulled the dash off.
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