Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F450 Missing When Cold
Apr 28, 2015
My 99 f450 7.3 runs bad on first start of day. I checked the codes 3 codes p0475, p0470 and p1247. Now here is what I tried I plugged it in over night and it will start and run as should the next morning with out side temp 47. Drove the truck late yesterday evening didn't plug up tried it this morning with a outside temp of 47 truck starts but missing and like of power. My problem seems to be temp related. Will low boost pressure cause this problem what do I need to do?
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Got a 99 F450 7.3 with 190k miles, started acting sluggish. When cold, it wouldn't stay running, almost as if out of fuel. Would stall out when you pressed and released the accelerator but would idle fine. Now, it won't even stay running. Still acts like it's out of fuel. Changed the air filter, fuel filter, and added injector cleaner and conditioner. What else could it be? after warming up when shifting gears and letting off throttle it stalls and when restarted lets off blueish white smoke.
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I have a 2003 F450 PSD which won't start cold. I leave it plugged in overnight and it won't start in the morning without starting fluid. I spray a little while cranking and it turns right over. It runs really rough for a few minutes but as it gets hotter it settles down and runs like it's brand new.
Once at operating temp it will start up again no problem. I changed the GPs, the GPR, the valve cover gaskets and GP harnesses, 2 brand new batteries, oil change, fuel filter, air filter. I can't imagine what the problem can be.
I know the icp sensor is bad, I checked it and it has oil in it, but it still won't start unplugged so that isn't the main problem. I noticed it has a minor oil leak, not sure of where it's coming from, but it seems to leak when the truck settles.
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My v10 has a cold miss when i start it in the morning no matter what the temp. It misses until it gets up to operating temp.then it runs fine all day with a slight miss.
- Changed plugs,
- Changed pcv,
- Changed iacv,
- Cleaned map sensor,
- Changed tube to pcv,
No codes. Its running as if it had a carb and the choke is closed. No smoke, tach. idles between 750 down to about 500, until it warms up then tach. Stays steady.
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So, I have a 2007 f250 with the 6.0. When she's cold she starts fine but runs rough like she has a miss. When she warms up the miss goes away and it runs pretty good. But if I shut it off it won't start for about an hour or so.
ICP sensor has been replaced.
FICM is putting out 50v
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I have a 1999 F450 that was bought new as a cab and chassis. The truck belonged to my dad who passed away two years ago and now I have it. I am wondering if it has 4.30 or 4.88 gears. The rear end is huge! It has an aluminum cover with cooling fins on it, not sure if they both had that or not. I looked online and I think it said all cab and chassis had 4.88?
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Purchased new 2016 450 platinum. Has less than 800 miles on it and has a terrible vibration between 70-80 mph... Already have taken to dealer who stated there was a wheel out of balance and that they fixed the issue. But still present.
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I have a 99 F450. I have an ABS light on. No codes (at least not that my code reader can pickup), but I am also not having any issues. Brakes work fine. What to swap out or where to look?
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Can an f-450 with a blown 6.4 diesel received an transplant from an f-350 V-10.
How much would need to go over from the f-350 to f-450?
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I have an 02 F450 with a dump bed an just under 45,000 miles (was barley used by the first owner). This maybe unrelated to my problem but is worth mentioning. This past week I noticed a small puddle where I had previously parked at a customers house so I checked the oil. I was about 2 quarts low. I followed the oil trail up and found a pool in the valley. One of the high pressure lines were loose and the seal was chewed up so I replaced it and tightened it. No more oil leak.
Now my new problem. Two days later, after about 45 minutes on the interstate driving about 75 mph the truck started to rapidly lose power as if it was running out of fuel. I heard a loud ticking sound coming from the engine and the more I tried to accelerate the worse it got. I pulled over and the truck stalled. I thought that maybe my fuel gauge had crapped the bed on me because it still read a little over 1/4 tank. I called a buddy and got more deisal in it and it started right up. We'll after about 5 minutes of 60 mph it started to happen again. So to fast forward... I opened up the tank and found the the strainer had crumbled in the bottom of the tank.
So I cleaned out the screens in the sending unit and replaced the strainer, replaced the fuel filter, and reverse blew out the lines. I read about checking the hpop reservoir for oil and it is present. So to sum up, as long as I stay under 60mph or so I can get about 5 minutes of run time before the truck starts to stutter and stumble. If I shut it off for about 5minutes I can go back up to 60 again but it the cycle continues. 5 on and 5 off. If I start the truck after say 30 seconds after shutting it off it sounds like it's going to die and has no power at all. I have worked on a lot of vehicles but none with anything like this and this is my first deisal. What do I do to get this beast back to normal?
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I have a 1999 F450 Diesel dump truck. Automatic. The problem that I have is that the truck will drive VERY SLOWLY while the rps go up.
You can hear the engine revving up, and a strong air sound when doing so (do not know if intake or exhaust, but its like a strong wind sound. And not like a hiss, so I do not think its a vacuum leak).
The transmission goes through gears fine, but it does the rev up thing through every gear. So I am wondering if something like the torque converter might be broken or slipping.
For example, if you go with the loaded truck up a hill, you have to really push it to keep any type of speed. Or when you get off a red light.
When I bought it used, I thought that it might have a really short final gear. But that would not explain the high RPM and no push.....
No codes at all.
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It's a 2004 F450 super duty, no power steering. The pump seems to function, no pump whine. I was told that it may be the steering gear box it's self.
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I've got a 2004 f450 6.0 diesel. This thing will start and run great when it's cold. Then when it gets to operating temp, around 190, it will shut down. This is getting worse and worse.
A little history, it was doing this for awhile and a had a few other issues before this. Puking antifreeze, stiction issues, and bad exhaust manifold. Since it wasn't running great I figured why not pull that cab and take care of these issues.
As of last week she got new head gaskets, new exhaust manifold, new injectors, updated standpipes, updated dummy plugs, new o rings on hpop (yellow on the bottom), and a new pipe to the oil pump. I have the old style it's not the stc fitting.
All that work, it still stalls when warm. I monitor with a scan gauge 2. ( Big diesel tech Ron's fan) ...
First thing, give here two second crank start right up, runs better then ever. Gets to operating temp, rev it up, then stalls. Ipc is at 85% ipr gets up to 180 psi.
Unplug ipc, shows 765 psi on the ipr still no start. Put shop air to her and I can't hear any leaks ( probably 15 mins or so).
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I have a F450 that I bought a few months ago and have been having trouble with Fuse location 35 blowing. When I purchased the truck the 4x4, tow/haul, and reverse sensing system worked because I had to use it loading and unloading my boat this fall. Since then the snow fell and when I tried to put it into 4x4 I noticed it would not. I checked the passenger compartment fuse (loc. 35) and it was blown.
So I figured it was an easy fix, changed fuse, and it immediately blew again, and again. So then I started checking components related to fuse 35. First i checked the tow/haul switch in the shift lever and thought it was that, so I replaced it, and it still blew fuses. Next, I unplugged the reverse sensing systems and still blew the fuse. Next, I turned my attention to the transfer case shift motor. I replaced it and still blew fuse. So at this point I am stumped.
It is probably worth mentioning that when I replace the fuse initially and turn the key over, all systems work. I can switch the dash switch to 4x4 and it will shift, also the illumination light on the dash comes on. I can also toggle the tow/haul switch and the illumination light on the dash comes on as well. The reverse sensing system also works as well and the light in the switch works as well.
Now and important thing to note is that it seems to hold the fuse for a minute or more with the engine off/ key on, when I start the engine, it works briefly but then the fuse blows. I am not a service tech. by any means but am very comfortable under the hood and have a fairly good understanding of electrical components and their operation. It seems to me that somewhere in the circuit that there is a short to ground or a faulty component(module) or something completely different.
The fact that it takes a minute or so to blow the fuse as compared to an immediate blow when the key is cycled to power on. I would like to fix this myself as with anything I do, I like to educate myself through diagnosis/repair. The last piece of information with mentioning is that before I purchased the truck(30,000 miles ago) it had a factory reman engine installed at a ford dealer. If worse comes to worse I will have to take it to a Ford dealership for service but would like to keep it in house if I could!
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I tried to take my tailgate off my 08 F-450 today.
Did it the same as every tailgate Ive taken off in the last 20 years...........it wouldn't come.
Is there a trick to it?
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Im working on a 03 f-450 that has a front end vibration, it starts when you hit 25 mph and its a humming / vibration that seems more to the passenger side than the drivers side. You can also hear it decrease when you come down in speed and it dissappears below 25 mph. Its a 2003 F-450 CC 4x4 DRW with the v-10.
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I hit a Turkey running across a back country road the other day . Never took flight. Shortly after that I lost my AC. I took a quick look at the front of the truck and saw no damage. The next day I found the grill lower chrome bar cracked and the AC condenser bent and leaking.
I had to replace those items plus the plastic support frame that all the chrome pieces are attached to. And recharge the AC. Hard to imagine the damage done since I could not stick 2 fingers thru the support grating. Been looking at Grill Guards but not thrilled with the look .
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I have a H&S mini max. Controller and have installed the mild download and run on the street setting for every day and tow setting while towing my fithwheel, when I just took it out for a test drive towing the fit wheel going up hill it kept shifting up and down which sure felt like 3rd and 5th because rpm would go from about 3500 to 1500 back and forth so it sure felt like it was not hitting 4th, could this be a controller issue?
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I have a 2000 ford f450 with the 7.3. the truck sat for about three month and now it won't turn over. When I put the key in to start it only the airbag light and abs light up. when i got to turn it over I can hear the starter just click but the engine wont crank. I have checked the batteries and the starter and they are all good. i have also checked the shiftier position sensor on the tranny and it fine.
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My truck has had a bad vibration for some time know, it started around 41,000 miles and took it to my local Ford dealer... the told me I needed tires and that my airdam/bumper extinction was loose and causing it to vibrate . I put front tires on I fixed the plastic on the bumper and replaced steering stabilizer . Vibration continued to come and go after all of that so I replace the steering stabilizer with a different steering stabilizer .
I noticed that the front seals for my four-wheel-drive allowed the shaft to move up and down by more than a half an inch of play.so I had Ford replace the front hubs and seals . Vibration is now worse and more often. It happens every time I am between 50-54mph. I am going to put 6 new Michelin defender Tires on it and new shocks and a Monroe steering stabilizer.
YouTube....
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How do I get the front axles out of of the knuckle? It seems like the seals are holding them in? Is there any trick to to getting them out,I am trying to do my ball joints
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