Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F350 V10 - Locking Hub Stuck
May 16, 2013
I have a piece of a warn locking hub that is stuck in the wheel hub. It is stuck in a Ford F-350 super duty SRW 6.8 V10 with a Dana 50 8 lug front axle. Everything seems stock, but we bought this beast late in its life. I have removed the locking hub cap, the inner locking gear, and the metal retaining ring that holds the outer gear in place. The other side just falls apart as it should at this point.
I have tried building a custom puller utilizing the 6 hex cap screws (that attach the locking hub cap) to pull in on two 1/8" thick c channels held off with a 1/2" bolt pushing in the middle of the c channels on the axle. In one case, I sheared off the bolt, and bent the c channels. I tried it again and that time broke several of the hex cap screws off.
I have ran through penetrating oil, wd-40, propane (for a torch) and carb and brake cleaner as I tried heating up the hub while applying penetrating oil and letting things sit, then spraying out rust and such with carb or brake cleaner to loosen things up, then repeating the process over and over again. I have done this process several times. It worked on the center where the axle goes through the inner gear, so now the inner gear is now loose from the axle. But the outside is still suck like no other.
Lightly hitting on it with a 3lb sledge to crack something lose has done nothing, and left me struggling not to beat it much harder with a bigger hammer with a longer handle.
As a note, it took weeks to get the center locking gear to fall out after doing the oil, heat, and spray cleaner process, then driving with it locked in, and it took two attempts and hours to get the cap off from stuck hex cap screws, several which I had to drill out in the end after even an impact screw driver would not work. The U-Joint is bad, and I can't lock in the 4WD which is problematic at the dump and on job sites when it is muddy especially when we are towing a maxed out 5k single axle trailer that wants to dig in to the mud too.
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On my 05 350, I noticed the other day that my 4wd wasn't working, when I needed it of course. I quick test this morning and I discovered my PS hub is not locking in. I've read a lot of posts about it being the opposite, the auto portion causing a problem. In my case, it won't lock in in auto or manually turning. I can lock it in, spin the wheel and the axle shaft isn't turning. The pressure is the same as the other side, not too loose or too stiff. Can I pull the hub assembly off and rebuild it? I watched a video about that, but not sure on how my issue would allow me to work on it.
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I drove my pickup on mostly dry pavement the other day with it in 4WD and the hubs locked. I got a bit of shimmy/vibration which quit after about a mile. When I got back on ice, the 4WD wasn't working. I assumed the transfer case or locking hubs had failed. Today I got it up on jack stands, put it in 4WD, and locked the hubs. Everything seems fine. What might have happened when I couldn't get 4WD to function.
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In my attempt to remove the auto locking hub on my 2000 F-350 4x4, I found that it would not slide out. I removed the retaing clip and the hub should of be able to come out with a couple wiggles, it seems to have seized inside the hub. I tapped it with a rubber mallet on all sides. Any thoughts as to other alternative methods of removing the hub locker ?
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So I have an 05 f350 5.4 with the shift on the fly and the auto/manual locking hubs.. I already know I have a leak with the vacuum and I just use the hubs manually, then shift on the fly to activate the transfer case.
I went to use the 4wd the other night in a snow storm and I have no 4wd, light on the dash comes on and i can hear the transfer case clicking in when i hit the switch between 2wd and 4wd.
So I got under the truck while it was on the ground and manually locked the passenger side, Then tried spinning the axle and it wont spin freely, so obviously its locked.
Tried the same thing on the driver side and the axle spins freely while the hub is locked, So obviously the locking part of the hub is no good... So i guess my question is, even with just 1 wheel locking in the front, shouldn't I pretty much get 3wd? or am i missing something...will it not engage at all because both sides arent locked?
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My F350 4x4 won't go into 4 wheel drive unless I get out and take them out of auto and put them in locked position and when I have it in lock mode it seams to work like it's in auto mode, when I put the switch on the dash in 2wd, it seams like it's only driving the back wheels....
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Putting in a locking axle to replace there non locking axle? Have a 2015 f350. And found a electric locking for a great price. Can this swap be done?
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I have 2014 F350, was previous flood damaged, the steering keep sticking when I turn it to the left, not always in the same spot, but sometimes it just locks and will not turn right, needs lots of jiggling and then it release, as I say in different places but always when turning to the left, never when turning to the right. Does this indicate steering gear fault or something else?
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My 2010 F350 shudders when turning right. From what I read it could be the auto locking hubs not dis-engaging or sticking in the locked position. Tutorials show it's pretty easy to pull the auto locking Hub out taking out the three screws holding it in place. My questions is what type of grease do I need to apply to the auto locking hub once I have them out and determine that is what the issue is?
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About 6 months ago my 4 wheel drive stoped working and I wasn't worried about it because I never used it. I did mess around with it allitle bit to try and fix it the one time I did need it. Long story short I was involved in the floods near Houston these past few days but my truck was never in more than a a foot of water. I went up the store and grabbed a few drinks and went home. tuesday when I went to get in my truck to head back to college station for school it was stuck in 4x4 low. whick puzzled me because my 4 wheel drive hasn't worked in a good while.
When I turn the key on there is no 4x4 lights that come on momentarily and when I turn the 4x4 switch still no lighst come on. Again its been this way for 6 months. I tested the two relays under the hood and both of them have power. there is no power going to the switch in my dash and no power going to the solenoid on the transfer case. Wich is why I am confused on how it went into 4x4 low. I assuming it is in 4x4 low because of how fast the tranny shifts and I know its locked because I cant turn my front drive shaft while in neutral. The hubs are unlocked. I just printed out a shematic and am gonna try to figure out why my 4x4 isn't working.. to hopefully fix it so I can get my truck out of 4x4.
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I am off to work tomorrow 800 Mile drive and I cant get this thing out of 4X4 Low. Tried driving (inching) back and forth. Got front end up on jacks to try to free up driveline... Is there any way to Manually put in 2WD. I just don't have time to run to town and get parts (new switching motor) if that is what the issue is?
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So my vents stopped actuating to different positions in my 2011 6.7 F350. I read that it could be a vacuum pump or solenoid issue. In any event, I turned 4x4 on and went down the street and made a u-turn - 4x4 seems to be on as the truck wants to hop the outside wheel when turning. I want to check the vacuum pump anyway but for the life of me cannot find it anywhere. Moreover, google turns up nothing which is making me start to believe the new trucks have a completely different system.
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2011 F350 loaded. Stuck on vent mode. Found actuator can feel it trying to move but something is stuck. Tried to remove the actuator but not enough room between the motor and a steel bracket welded in to the dash. (Not removable). Do I have to remove the dash ? (I suspect something fell inside and is stopping the big vent door from moving as i did pull the motor far enough away to move all the door except the vent door.
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I have a problem with my vent selector on my truck. It's a 2005 f350 lariat. The vent is stuck on defrost, some times after a few mins I can get it to switch to floor but not always. I have replaced the pump, checked tank for cracks, disabled and plugged the auto hubs. The pump will shut off so I assume it's not a leak. I believe it's in the switching unit, can these be repaired? I found a lot of dust and dirt in the vac tank that had been sucked through a bad hub. I think it may need to be disassembled and cleaned. I have seen videos showing how to replace the orings in the older units. Are the newer style remote ones the same?
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My question is my abs light came on so I stuck my computer on it. Said right rear , we'll we all know on a 2007 6.0 f350 4X4, the there's only one sensor on the pumpkin, so I replaced it and cleared the code. Abs light came back on once I started driving, week ago my right front caliper stuck and got very hot, could that read bad for the rear of the front went bad? Will pull plug and make sure I didn't bend any pins.
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Last Oct. I noticed that my ac/heater started to intermittently stop blowing from AC fresh air/recir/vent/etc. mode and stick to defrost only. Do I have a bad switch and or a vacuum issue here? It's a '01 F350 CC 7.3 .....
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Ok so I got a good deal on a used F350. When I got it home I found the heater was stuck on defrost. I posted on here a few weeks ago with questions on what could be wrong. From that post I learned that my front passenger side hub is stuck locked in. I pulled the vacuum lines at every connection from the pump on and had good vacuum all of the way to the passenger side hub. I turned the axle shafts and found the drivers side is free the passenger side is locked.
I flipped the dash switch and heard the drivers side hub lock. Then I turned the axles again and found they were in fact both locked in. I flipped the switch back to 2H and the drivers side freed and the passenger side was still stuck locked in. So I pulled the passenger side hub off of the truck and found it was seized up. I put it back together and locked both hubs in manually until payday when I can pick up a new hub.
Yesterday we had a lot of ice! Where I park the pickup the front wheels drop into a low spot. I could not get backed out of my driveway with the front wheels in the hole and the rear wheels on ice, so I flipped the switch to 4x4 and tried again. It still could not pull out, the front wheels didn't seem to engage. Now I am thinking I have more troubles than just the one hub stuck locked in.
So, my questions now are, 1 if the passenger side hub is bad but both are locked in it should still go into 4x4 correct? 2, the 4x4 light on the dash lights up when I flip the switch. If I had a bad switch or fuse would I still get the same result (light on and drivers side hub clicking in)? Does this pickup have to move a few feet before it engages the 4x4 or should it click right in? And finally what is a short explination of how the 4x4 system works. The dash switch engages the solenoid on the firewall to switch vacuum down to the hubs but what else does it do? I assume it has some kind of switch or motor in the transfer case that engages the 4 wheel drive?
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I have a 2008 6.4 Diesel 4x4, and the TC is not locking. The ABS sensors were changed prior to me purchasing the truck as well as the dash and reflashed. I have recently changed the following within the last two weeks:
Internal harness
External harness
TCC solenoid
Tranny filter
I get no codes, but the ABS light is on, and the speedo doesn't work. I know on OBS trucks, the clock spring could affect it, but I am not sure about this newer ones.
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Driving home from work yesterday, dry roads, truck unloaded, running around 50mph, had a dog almost run out in front of me. I hit the brakes hard and came to a stop. But, I noticed that my brakes did not lock up the tires. This was a bit of a surprise. My former 2003 Cummins would easily lock them up. Is my truck an anomaly? Can lock up your tires during a hard/panic stop?
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I went to replace my driver's hub bearing last night. Found pieces missing from the locking hub (manual). I ordered them last night it's the snap ring and washers but will not be here till next Monday. Can I run the new bearing with out hurting it. It has already ruined the seals on that side I just don't have the time to take it all the way down. So if I install the bearing and don't put all the guts in the locking hub (I know the locking hub won't work) Dont need 4x4 right now but need to be able to drive it some. Just don't want to mess up the 250 dollar bearing I just got.
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Back in March while still plowing, my auto locking hubs wouldn't stay engaged. After talking to the local Ford service shop they told me that it was moisture in the vaccum lines and that it had frozen. They told me to manually lock the hubs and bring it in to be repaired when I had time. I made a appointment in the middle of May and finally got it in last week. Now the hubs are seized in the locked position and they will not warranty the work or parts because they say it was caused by the salt from our roads. Does this sound right?
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