I just picked up a 2003 F350 4X4 5.4L it has 130k on it. It drives ok, it doesn't seem to be able to accelerate very quickly and one thing I noticed is when i go into reverse it seems to stutter or feels like it scoots a little bit.
View 14 RepliesIt seems its the 4R100 tranny non pto of course and 2wd version. I drove down the rd. after bleeding the brakes, new caliper front right, came home let it idle for about 10 min, shut her down. Went to move it about an hour later, it went into reverse no problem, then when put it in Drive it revved like it was in neutral. There was no banging, no clunking, nothing to make it seem like something catastrophic happened.
I then did a line pressure test and Reverse was fine 200 psi for sure, in drive mode however it was low like around 50 but had to rev real high to get it to 150 like 3/4 pedal and it would want to seem to go forward at a crawl but nothing more. Next I did the obvious and cheked the fluid, it was about 1/4 quart low so added a bit. The fluid did not stink and was beautiful red like new.
I then tried again... no dice same scenario. Then took off the pan, no metal chunks and virtually no dust on the magnet??? Ok so I figure maybe something with the shift valves? Took them all off and the accumulators as well, all check ***** were in place and all valves moved freely.
Now onto the the solenoid pack, checked all per manual for ohms and all were perfect reads at about 27 Ohms, except the EPC solenoid that is the big one on the pack, it should read about 3-5 ohms but this guy is about 12.5 ohms.
I spoke to a tranny shop in town and they said it would not be the EPC and that I could "unplug" the solenoid pack and It would still move forward without it but not to drive like this as line pressure would skyrocket?
Why this thing would have 200 lbs pressure for reverse and so little for forward I mean? that should mean that the pump is working great, if there was a broken something metal I figured I would hear something rubbing or banging or see some shavings? Can this be a "worn out" valve? or gasket issue?
On one of the trucks in work, the salt has corroded the truck side plug for the reverse camera in the tailgate. Because of this, the camera no longer works.
Is this part of the whole rear wiring harness, or it the tailgate plug a separate pigtail that can be replaced? If it is a separate part, what is the part number so I can order it?
My daughter came home a bit ago and told me the backup lights on my '02 F350 were on. Pretty odd because the keys were in my pocket at the time.
When I opened the door to the truck, I noticed a faint electrical smell and noticed the fan for the environmental controls was running as well.
I'm guessing the light issue is probably a sensor or something at the transmission but why would the blower be running as well?
Early last week I finally decided to try and figure out why my cruise control hadn't been working and discovered fuse F2.34 was blown. Replaced it and went through the test procedure described here: [URL] ....
No issues and the cruise is working again. I had to take it on a road trip for work the following day and didn't have any issues for almost 1,000 miles.
I drove it last night and didn't have the issue. I drove it again this morning to several places and everything was fine.
I've got a tuner with a code reader. Would something like the above problem register a code?
I've not stuck my head under the truck yet (it's cold and dark out.) What sensors I might need to check out? Is there a testing procedure available to ID the faulty component?
The battery is disconnected for the night, but I'd sure like to get this thing sorted before I hit the road for work again this week.
I have a 2003 f350 4WD that studders or skips only when in reverse. I noticed it the other day while plowing. The noise seems to be coming from the transfer case but only in reverse. If I go real easy it won't happen but it will happen if I gas it a little. Happens both with hubs locked or unlocked. BTW it is a manual shift transfer case and manual hubs.
View 3 RepliesI installed a reverse camera to my new Pioneer in-dash nav head unit this morning. I wired (at the rear of the truck) the power signal lead to the reverse wire at the trailer connector. I also need to wire a reverse signal input into the back of the head unit. I really do not want to run a power lead from the rear of the truck to the cab. Is there a wire under the dash I can tap into, or could I use the wire going to the backup alarm that’s somewhere under the dash (if I can find it). 2010 F350 deisel, crew cab, 4WD, long bed.
View 9 RepliesMy 2005 f350 reverse lights just started to not work . So I checked the fuse and it was blown and every time I put new fuse in it blows, where to check. Sounds like a ground issue am I correct .
View 4 RepliesOne of our trucks, 2004 F350 Powerstroke, my company truck, recently the last snow even we had, my tow haul mode would pop on and off almost evertime I shifted from drive to reverse while plowing. I didn't want it on, it just kept poping on and off. Thought maybe the button was stuck, but it moved like normal. My other thought was there is a loose connection in the shifter or column causing it to go on and off.
View 6 RepliesIve got a 04 f350 that after u shift into 4hi or 4lo when u accelerate it it makes loud clunk noise in fwd or reverse hi or lo. With hubs unlocked it still clunks. Have checked, wheel bearings, axle U-joints, and driveshaft joints all good. So I am thinking I've got issues in t-case. Popped drain plug out and wow that dex merc 4 looks nasty. So thinking I need exploded view of transfer case.
View 4 RepliesInstalling a back up camera and need to locate reverse lights on driver's side at rear bumper. What color wire is for the reverse lights on a 2003 F-350 (truck in my sig)?
View 4 RepliesTurns out I have a loose injector head. The electrical body on top of the injector has separated from the bottom half of the injector. I do not know which injector it is or what side it is on. I know this is what happened because I found the head of the screw in my oil when I changed my oil for good measure and found the nut stuck to the oil plug.
2004.5 F250 SD XLT 4dr 6.0L
CAI, 4" Straight exhaust
EGR Delete, 6.4 Injector pump
Coolant filtration system.
New injectors al around
New ICP, New IPR, New Oil Cooler.
Recently Bulletproofed on ARP head studs, and the stock Head gasket,
New injector harness and FICM from DieselTech Ron
SCT tuner, running innovative diesel tunes. EGT Sensor
37x13.5r18 nitto trail grrappleers
No, I do not have a bad injector [Or I guess I do!!. This explains why it was testing ok. but still acting like a bad injector] , or a bad ICP. The Head is not leaking nor is the potentiometer [TPS] or CPS bad. All of these things have been replaced. Even the injector harness has been replaced. The only thing I have not done is remove the valve cover and making sure all the injectors are tight.
I recently had a contribution error on cylinder 8. Hence the extensive ends I went to above. The new harness and FICM connectors fixed that part of the problem, but apparently the bucking and stalling were not related to that.
No codes are coming up. I'm running an SCT tuner with Innovative Diesel's Extreme Street tune. 4" strait pipe, S&B CAI, 6.4l Injection pump, bulletproofed with ARP head studs, new oil cooler, egr delete, coolant filtration, EGT sensor, SCT tuner, etc etc. Everything but larger injectors. [was coming next]
The truck runs perfect, actually better than perfect after the harness, TPS repair, UNTIL I REACH OVER 60 MPH. At 60+ it starts bucking until i get below 45-50, then I can get back up to speed but no faster than 60. If I let off it real fast while bucking, it stalls.
Fuel PSI issue? The injection PSI isnt affected. Pulse width, normal.
I commute... [At 60 mph lately...] Sounds like I have a loose injector wire under the valve cover.
Last week I hauled my camper (2000 Thor Citation @ about 10,000 lbs) to Moosehead Lake. On the trip to and from I experienced a few problems. Tow/haul was engaged all three times. Trucks got just over 90,000 mi.
1) When shifting, the truck would occasionally stutter, like a gas engine when it misfires. Seemed like it would usually happen when transitioning from a slight down hill to an up hill.
2) Once, after a long up hill pull, as it crested the top, the truck slammed into the next gear, hard.
3)Once, going down hill, the trans wouldn't shift into O.D. until I took the rpm's up to 3000 then let off the throttle. No, I did not touch the brake prior to this.
Figure the tranny's gonna need a rebuild soon. What kind of upgraded parts does the wise and all knowing FTE wizards think I should be looking at? I tow the camper a lot during the summer so I want a trans that will hold up to the abuse. I'm probably stuck with this thing for a few more years.
My 2001 6.8 L V10 runs great all day & night without issue, but first thing in the morning when below freezing it has a hiccup. It'll fire right up and stutter and stall within less than 2 seconds. Usually twice. Third time it fires and keep running. Is there a fuel check valve somewhere on this thing? Not sure what that would have to do with the temps. Wondering if it's/there's an easy fix or not?
View 5 Replies06 250 5.4 40k on it, usually when cold and accelerating engine will misfire and stutter and then continue accelerating. The wrench light will flash sometimes but it wont store a code. This used to be vague in occurrence but has now started to be more a common occurrence even when up to normal operating temps.It seems only to misfire /stutter on hard acceleration or towing/hauling heavy loads. The only answer I got from a mech would be to do a computer reflash, not sure why /how this would fix whats going on.
View 1 RepliesPicked up a project truck for the spring..... single cab 99 4x4 7.3 with the 6 speed. 1st through 5th work perfect...... however reverse and low are non existent.
What I am sure of:
1. I'm positive its not a clutch problem.
2. The shifter goes into the position of reverse and low just fine but there's no engagement at all.
3. I can put the shifter in low or reverse position whether the clutch is engaged or not... makes no difference at all.
Once i was messing with it and somehow by moving the stick sort of to the side it hit reverse and the gear worked fine but then it remained in reverse no matter what position the shifter was in until i was able to move it around enough to get it out.
I'm thinking bent shift fork? Looking at a few writeups on rebuilds it looks like i might be able to replace the fork without dropping the tranny.... just divorce the t-case and remove back half of trans?
I went out getting firewood in my 2001 F350 4X4 6.8l V10 auto . Backed up to the slash pile, put the truck in 4X4 Low and went to work.
When we finished I flipped the switch to 2WD, but the transfer case would not dis-engage and the IDIOT LIGHT on the dashboard stays on 4X4 Low... I can't get the truck out of 4X4 Low. I turned the hubs from auto to lockand its still stuck in low range.
Our new 2016 F350 King Ranch is suffering from a battery drain. It goes dead after it's been left for over 24 hours. This has left us stranded several times.
The truck has been at the dealership for weeks and there is still no resolution. We really like the truck and bought it because we believed it would be dependable. This is extremely frustrating.
I have a 99 F350 with a 7.3 diesel that will not shift into park.
View 10 RepliesI have a buddies truck as a loaner while my f250 is in the shop. He doesn't and has never had a key fob. Just to clarify he bought it used years ago and its never been his DD so he never bothered getting a key fob. I picked one up w intention of programming it for him but i cant get it to work. Wondering if his truck doesn't have rke??
Ive tried the turn on and off 5 times and also 8 times w no luck. Its a 1999' F350 crew cab Lariat, all the bells and whistles so i would think it should have rke.
It is however a manual transmission V10. Wondering if it being a manual is messing me up having that little button one has to push to turn the key all the way back. Is there a different procedure for manual or maybe just no rke?
I have an 02 f350 XL. The other day it rained and all of my rear lights went haywire. All problems are out back.
- Step on brakes, high mount, and lic plate lights light up with brakes.
- Turn on marker lights and the high mount lights up and the tails and lic plate lights dim.
- Marker lights on, apply brakes, and the tails and lic plates lights go out on bed, high mount activates.
- Use turn signals with markers off and all of the rear lights including high mount flash..
- Reverse lights dim or dont work at all.
I have tried a new MF switch, checked all fuses. cleaned rear frame ground. took apart brake switch and cleaned it. non tilt column but checked wires. replaced flasher. unplugged brake light switch and headlight switch, problem is still there. removed trailer relays, no luck. checked all chassis plugs. disconnected TRS.
I should mention i have 12v cummins swap and a pcs with standalone harness. no problems over the last few months since swap until it rained last monday.
Any way to disable the reverse sensors by maybe adding a switch to turn off power so it does not constantly go off while plowing and the sensors are snow covered? i thought maybe by just unplugging the switch would do it, but that did not work. truck is an 02 diesel with auto trans.
View 6 Replies