Bought a new truck and had the dealer put a leveling kit (readylift 2.5" kit) on it with bigger tires. The rear now sits lower than the front. Any way to fix this? I want the truck to sit level as much as possible loaded and unloaded. New 2016 F350 KR
I added a pic ....
My 2wd truck sits just a tiny bit low in the front. I see a lot of the hockey puck leveling kits on ebay but there are SO many options that I don't know where to turn. I want to up 1 inch and id like to use a nylon or rubber spacer. Will I need shock extensions?
Also do the 4wd trucks use the same front coil springs? I looked under a 4wd truck today and noticed it has a big rubber isolator on top of the spring that my truck does not have.
Here's how it sits with 2 dirt bikes in it. Maybe I'll even go up a squeak in the back too, just to bring it up to 4x4 height.
Just wondering if its normal that my front axle sits out about 1 1/2 inches further on the drivers side than the passenger, also gas pump always shutting off when filling up...
View 6 RepliesOk. I wanted to pick the minds to make it easier. In the photos the lower steering linkage is loose (bottom bar with ring on the end connected to knuckle) and needs replacement. To fix this is it just a bushing inside? Is it unscrewing the end like replacing a tie rod?
2008 F350 CC DRW
I bought my first vehicle last October, a '99 F-250 with a 6.8 V10. I later found out (AFTER hauling a big load of rocks in a dump trailer) that one of the bottom leaf springs was broken. So this winter I have been thinking on what I want to do about it when it warms up. This is pretty much on top of the "to do" list for my truck. I did make a thread about putting 1 ton springs under it, but I think I'll just stick with the regular 3/4 ton springs. So now this is where I have another question, and I think this pic will tell some of it:
Now I'm not sure if those rear springs are stock, but that rear end is way the heck up there! The truck itself is not level, the front looks to be correct height, but not the back. A buddy at school and I were talking about a leveling kit for the front. But the more I look at it, I think the rear end should come down. I don't want to get bigger tires, as I just put brand new Transforce AT's on the back and plan to put new ones on the front in the near future.
Another question of mine is, would this have been a truck ordered just for pulling a camper? It has holes for a fifth wheel hitch in the bed, the rear end sits high, and it didn't come with a tow package. The PO told me that he put the receiver hitch on it. I'm fixing up stuff on it one thing at a time. Springs just happen to be next on the list.
My truck is a 2008 F250 6.4 Powerstroke 4x4 King Ranch, CrewCab, Shortbed.
I don't know which rear axle ratio it has - maybe someone can help me. the tires mounted are 275/60R17 and in fifth gear (TC locked) the engine has 2000rpm @ 70mph. I think it is a bit to much so I want to install a kit with and lower ratio. I pull trailers just sometimes and here in germany these only have 3,5tons max weight. So I think I don't need this power at 70mph. 1750rpm would be enough. How do I have to modify the front axle ratio if I get a lower-ratio-rear-axle?
I want to lower the fuel consumption. After some modifications, the truck needs round about 12-13L/100km (18-20mpg) and I think it is possible to lower this as bit.
My son recently purchased this truck in Jan., 2017, upon inspecting the vehicle we noticed the rear driver and passenger windows would not raise or lower. When I asked the seller about this his comments were " I believe it to be a master switch issue". Ok so no big deal, I purchased and replaced the master switch with no luck. I didn't spend much time on it due to the cold weather. After digging into this a little more I'm very confused now. So here is where I currently am at with this issue.
Power is not the problem, I am reading approx. 14V at the master switch and at the rear door switches. I've checked and have power when the switch is toggled to simulate raising and lower of the window (approx. 12 to 13.5V). The window lift motors have been taken out and cleaned and inspected. The motor will operate properly with a 12V battery pack (both motors, driver and passenger side). I have power all the way to the motor itself, slightly less than 14Volts.
I can raise and lower the window in the truck by plugging into the back of the female connector with the outside power source but not with the power supply from the truck. I have continuity between the power(blue) and ground(black) wires at the switches. So this is where I am at, also just a reminder the front windows and door locks work fine. Just a side note, this truck has aftermarket mirrors on it so that branch of the harness is left hanging.
Very noticeable not like things i read on about .5-1" this is like an inch and half to two inch on driver side front and rear... Looks like the bed is twisted but its not frame is intact and by a level sits good... Same in front end. Since there is no coil springs could this be related to the leaf springs or maybe rust caused something I am not seeing to break and give way....this gangsta lean has to be fixed....
View 10 RepliesI noticed an oil leak out of the front housing of my 2016 350. I have 3 Ford dealers nearby and all 3 can't get me in until 8 August. It looks to be just a few drops daily. Is it safe to drive pulling a 5th wheel until they get me in? The leak is at the bottom of the housing.
View 3 RepliesTonight I went to check the air in the tires on my 2001 F350 Dually and saw that the front right rim is broken. Two of the five spokes are completely broken all the way through. So this means I am looking to buy at least one good stock rim for the front. Might buy two if the price is right. Didn't want to spend the money for 4 custom rims right now unless it is really a super deal. If you have some sitting there in your way send me a message. My Zip is 46347.
View 4 RepliesI recently purchased a 2000 F350 4wd, it's mainly used for plowing my driveway, and hauling larger items. I can truly say I love this truck. When I got it, it was in pretty rough shape, but slowly I've been bringing it back to life.
However, I have this loud front end rattling sound I can't seem to locate. Quick background the truck is 4wd with a v10 in it, and it has 215k miles on it, poorly maintained, so everything is suspect. Only new parts are all new brakes and new u-joints everywhere.
So back to the noise, it's most noticeable whenever I hit a small bump or dip at lower speeds, but the noise is still there at higher mph as well. It's loud and literally sounds like the whole front end will fall off, its a definite rattle, doesn't seem to be from one side or the other, best I can describe is in front of the firewall at it sounds like something is very loose.
But when I crawl underneath the truck, I don't see anything loose, the shocks, look OK, the sway bar links seem to be connected. IDK what else to look for, 4wd works fine and doesn't seem to alter the noise any when engaged.
Truck recently passed inspection, and no mention of anything being loose or worn was mentioned. I'm kinda at a loss, but the sound is so loud and noticeable I feel like it should be obvious as to whats loose underneath.
I have a 2001 f350 super duty with the 7.3 diesel. It seams lately I'm noticing the front end seams to be taking a beating when going over bumps or rail road tracks. It feels like the front is bottoming out. I replaced the shocks in april, and just recently replaced the sway bar links to see if that will work. My thought is the front springs have lost there arch, but I'm not sure. They do look like there almost flat. Don't know if this is a problem on other trucks.
View 8 RepliesWhat exactly does the sensor on the rear axle do? 08' f350. I know it's a speed sensor of some sort, but what does it do or control exactly.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2016 F350 super cab and I can't figure out how to remove the rear head rest. Short of taking out my sawsall and cutting them off. How to get them off...
View 12 RepliesI have a 2011 F350 with camper package (didn't want it). When I drive on a bumpy road (without 5th wheel), the truck suspension does not absorb the shock. The ruts just throws the truck side to side. Really hard, so I can't go on a dirt, rough road. On one bump it poped off my rear tire cap.
My problem may be with the camper package trying to keep the truck from going back and forth.
There is a 7/16 inch steal rod going from the truck bed, around the differential, and back up to the other side of the truck. Is that the rear stablizer rod?? Can I disconnect it? What would be
My grandfathers 99 F350, started suddenly, do not know if it was while sitting or while driving. Its more of a stream than anything else. Coming from the rear, cannot see where, appears to be toward the vee of the engine, not inside the bellhousing. The firewall insulation is damp from coolant. Doesnt start until engine starts warming up.
Is there something commonly replaced back there? Didnt want to yank the intake in 20* weather for exploratory surgery. Is not the heater hoses. Idk if the EGRs are cooled on these, thats about my only idea other than freeze plug, coolant tests good down to -20ish, hasnt been below zero in weeks (prior to leak). Not familiar with any of the modular engines.
I have a 2014 F350 (specs in my signature) and I want to change the 4" rear blocks out for F250 2" blocks to lower the rear of the truck.
Looks like a fairly straight forward replacement but I have a few questions.
Will the shocks need to be replaced? I do eventuality want to replace them as the stock ones are not that great but I only have 2500 miles on them.
When I do order new shocks for my truck after the changing the blocks do I order shocks for a F250?
I would like to go OEM parts for this but I am having trouble finding the blocks and u-bolts that I need. What are the part numbers for these?
Anything else I should know about to do this swap?
I'm having trouble finding the source of a vibration in the front end if my 1999 f350 super duty 4x4. The vibration is felt all the time but worse when under 40mph, while braking, and especially when turning.
I have replaced the rotors and brakes, tie rods and Drag links since the issue started but no change. In the vibration. What should I check next?
Do a 2014 f350 front bumper will fit on a 2001 f350? Wanting to know if the bolt holes and body lines will match up? I put a 2014 rear bumper on and it bolted right up.
View 8 RepliesAny good info on front brake replacement parts to get better braking out of these beasts? My pads are now needing replacement but I would like to get better performance than that of factory parts....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 F350 XLT, Super Cab, chassis cab, V-10, 4x4. I ordered it new, it now has 97,000 miles. It is equipped with a 9' aluminum flatbed. I tow it behind my motorhome and also carry a truck camper (not when towing it!).
I don't think the front brakes are working 100%. I have 2 sets of wheels and tires (19.5s for hauling the camper). Every time I change over, I check the brake pads for wear. Over the first 80,000 miles there was very little wear on the rear pads. In 2014 I had almost a complete brake failure while traveling. I took it to a Ford dealer, and they determined the brake booster was bad. They replaced the booster and flushed the brake system. I didn't think the brakes felt right afterward, but I carried on. By 95,000 miles, the rear brakes were worn out. I feel like the rear brakes are doing most of the stopping now, thus wearing out much faster than they were.
I just ordered a set of service manuals for the truck (9.5 years late on that!) hoping to figure out something. I like the truck, it meets my needs, and I hope to keep it quite a while longer. I took it in to the local dealer to replace a leaking rear pinion seal. They found and replaced the worn pads. I trust them to the extent that the pads were worn, as I had already noticed an acceleration in wear. Local dealer that replaced the pads has no idea what could be up. They did clean and lube the front calipers at the same time, but I noticed no difference in brake feel. Stopping power is definitely worse than before the brake failure/ booster replacement.
What might cause this? The only things that come to my mind is a problem with the proportioning valve or maybe the master cylinder. I don't know much about the details of the ABS system. Is there anyway that might be causing the issue? I would rather not just start throwing parts at the problem...