Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F350 - Rear Head Rest Removal?
Jun 21, 2017
I have a 2016 F350 super cab and I can't figure out how to remove the rear head rest. Short of taking out my sawsall and cutting them off. How to get them off...
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So, I bought a set of seat covers yesterday and I'm trying to install them this morning. Surprise, surprise!! The head rests won't come out. I tried pushing the little button and pulling up hard, No good. I look for a little clip or some other retaining device. Nothing. How do I get the front head rests out?
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I have a 2011 F350 with camper package (didn't want it). When I drive on a bumpy road (without 5th wheel), the truck suspension does not absorb the shock. The ruts just throws the truck side to side. Really hard, so I can't go on a dirt, rough road. On one bump it poped off my rear tire cap.
My problem may be with the camper package trying to keep the truck from going back and forth.
There is a 7/16 inch steal rod going from the truck bed, around the differential, and back up to the other side of the truck. Is that the rear stablizer rod?? Can I disconnect it? What would be
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my truck at 210k miles got a new radiator (seeping at seams), thermostat, water pump (bearings shot, leaking), intake manifold (The crossover was leaking). It now has 227k miles. Oil leak in rear at head gasket by starter (bad head gasket?) It overheated the other day( blowing coolant out the expansion tank needle in the red) Replaced thermostat. Drove around for two full hours, seemed fine, Drove to work today it overheated ( same thing, blowing coolant needle pegged) didn't make it to work. There are no external leaks and its not putting steam or white smoke out the exhaust. I read somewhere that a blown head gasket could make the truck overheat, is that possible? What all could cause this problem?
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I have a new 2015 F350 XLT. For the life of me I cannot open the lid on the center arm rest. I have read the manual, and I can't open the lid. This is my 5th Super Duty with the last being a 2010. So you would think this would be a no brainer. I can pull on the handle and its not opening. Pry the damn thing open? Is there a hidden lock? Hidden treasure?
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How do you remove the air bag on a 2014 F350 super duty. I have search every where. Nothing new on Google.
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2005 FORD F350 Lariat 6.0, 61,000 miles, and in prestine condition. Just got the news the head gasket is blown! HOW DID THIS HAPPEN?!!! My mechanic says to scrap the whole engine because the 6.0 is the worst engine around. This truck should last for years!!!!!
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I need to remove the panel to the left of the dash that has the headlight switch and AC outlet in it.
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I'm trying to remove the center console from my 2016 f350 lariat cc. I have both drivers and passengers seats out and all the obvious bolts removed. I'm still not able to remove the console. I know I'm likely missing just a few bolts as its really loose.
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I'm working on an '05 F350 King Ranch dually, and I'm pretty sure the pb cable is stretched. I recently replaced the shoes in the pb assembly and adjusted the tension while I was in there, but it still barely holds. My next culprit sounds like a stretched cable, and I have a complete set for a new one, but I'm having a hell of a time getting the old one out. The link that holds the front and intermediate cables together won't pry open with any tool I have, and I've broken two drill bits trying to drill out the nub holding the front cable in.
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How to take the panels off? I need to remove the passenger srs module for the light bulb repair. It's a 2003 F350 XLT SWR 4X4.
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I have a 2005 F350 6.0 PowerStroke, and I just did the head bolts upgrade to the ARP studs, new EGR cooler and a new stock turbo. Looks like everything came out good, no left over parts or unplugged connectors, all new fluids and fuel filters and oil filter. Did the priming of fuel and oil, the turbo. When it was ready to turn it on, I turned the motor by jumping the starter to build some oil pressure.
Now I turn the key to turn on the truck, it turns with no issues, it sound good, but it will not turn on.
Checked my batteries, they are fully charged, checked fluids, ok, checked oil pressure as I'm cranking it, it looks good.
It still does not turn on.
So, I jumped it with my friends Excursion, after a couple of tries, it TURNED ON.
Let it run for about 3 minutes then turned it off. It sound good just like it did before the upgrade, with an exhaust leak from the turbo.
Went to turn it on again, it turns but it will not start, jumped it again and it RUNS.
Now I let it run for about 30 minutes figured out where the exhaust leak was coming from.
Shut it off, Re seated exhaust pipe with leak, WENT TO TURN IT ON AND IT WILL TURN BUT WILL NOT RUN.
So what checks I can perform to start eliminating possible issues.....
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I want to get the rear fender flares on my dually painted, they had a few scuffs when I bought it & I will soon have some spare time to get it sorted. We can't get the truck in the paint booth so taking them off seems like the ideal solution. I have had a quick look & I think it's just a case of removing the plastic liner (screws & clips) then it looks like there are some nuts up inside the steel fender, disconnect the wiring & they should come off!
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I want to know if there are any issues when removing the rear block, also do I have to put a new block in or can I just leave it out ....
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I went to get my front window tinted and the place didn't have the "tool" to remove the rear view mirror and they did not want to get very aggressive with the mallet in fear of breaking the windshield. Has anyone bene able to get any of the "home methods" to work? I contacted a couple of local auto window repair places and they said they wouldn't do it because the windshield "ALWAYS" breaks.
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I would like information how to remove the rear seat back on a 2012 F250. I want to remove the head rests and from what I can find out they are bolted solid to the rear panel. I asked the same question earlier and got a reply for 2011, would that be the same? Is there any place I could get a schematic, a picture is worth a thousand words.
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Ok, I've seen a post or two about this issue of rear end chatter on the super duty But not that many so I am going to ask a question here and now......what causes/allows this to happen and what purpose does it serve? also, does it cause any damage to the gear head? or any other part of the rear end?
My truck tends to do this from time to time when I am plowing snow (only when backing up, or at least so far) and I really can't relate it to condition other than maybe the fact that pushing snow may cause the gear oil to get hotter than normal driving and thins out and causes this?
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I've got a 2014 f250 xl super cab and can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the back seat back.
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So I've put about 1000 miles on my 03 F250 since buying it, and just the other day it's started leaking from the rear of the passenger head gasket. Enough to drip on the driveway and exhaust, and have some exhaust smell. 126,000 miles, 5.4
I've checked with my local ford dealer, and It also needs passenger exhaust manifold and studs, so the dealer price to tack that on would be a whole lot more too since there are already a couple studs broke. It would be best to get it done when the head is pulled.
I've checked with several local mechanics, and none of them are interested in pulling the head on this engine. That has me concerned about doing it myself too..especially since it fits in my garage with only a few inches to spare..
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I have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
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What exactly does the sensor on the rear axle do? 08' f350. I know it's a speed sensor of some sort, but what does it do or control exactly.
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