Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F350 - Randomly Clicking Relays And Battery Running Down
May 5, 2017
Bottom-line question: is there a way to tell if a GEM is fried?
'99 F350 with a known water leak (not where it leaks, but for sure that it does--glove box, floor mats, etc.).
Recently started running the battery down, and then noticed that under low-voltage conditions it would click the door-lock relay back and forth, etc.
Now, after several inches more rain, it's making clicking and other electrical havoc noises any time it's not running, key in or out, even when the battery is up enough to start the truck (V10). I charged the truck and started it, drove it around to let it charge some more, and when I got home and shut it off, it was clicking as bad as ever.
After reading on the forums a while, I went ahead and pulled the fuse panel and GEM. The two big fuse panel connectors were definitely wet inside, and there's a little corrosion on one or two of the bayonet connectors. The GEM itself doesn't seem wet, and it doesn't look/smell like I've let the smoke out of it.
What do I do at this point? Last time, after I charged it up, it seemed to hold a charge and didn't do any clicking. I thought at the time it was related to the door switches that had been on the fritz (and which I lubricated after reading about where they are). Now, I suspect it was just because it had been long enough since it was rained on that things had dried out.
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The truck runs but After staring and during idle there is a heavy relay click and the speedo jumps to 20 or 30 mph. Afterwards on a 30 to 45 sec cycle there is a relay clicking in the area of the PCM relay.
Speedo jumps to 10mph and radio resets. 15 to 20 seconds later there is a light click behind the dash ( no speedo jump or radio reset). Rinse and repeat...
I have tried to locate which relay is setting it is either the PCm or possibly the pcm and the icm. Can't tell. Popped and swapped for s&@$s and giggles but no change.
1999 7.3, 308,000 miles. No mods. Original injectors and no other major repairs.
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Every time I connect the battery I get a clicking under the dash its non stop until I remove the battery cables. just when I remove the left passenger side battery. When I put in the key while its clicking and try to start its almost like I have no power the needle just drops down to nothing. The batteries have a full charge I pulled them off and charged over night also brought them in and had them tested. Seems like a serious short in the electrical but that clicking under the dash coming from fuse box scares me. I did pull all the relays and it still clicks.... doesn't sound good! 1999 F350...
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I have a 5.4L 2001 F250. I recently replaced the starter and this morning when I turned the key it just started clicking. I had this issue a couple weeks ago and swapped the battery from another truck and it started fine for a while. But after this morning the relays are still chattering even when the key isn't in. I believe it's still the battery ....
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Our new 2016 F350 King Ranch is suffering from a battery drain. It goes dead after it's been left for over 24 hours. This has left us stranded several times.
The truck has been at the dealership for weeks and there is still no resolution. We really like the truck and bought it because we believed it would be dependable. This is extremely frustrating.
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I have a 2013 f350 powerstroke, and the other day i climbed in it noticed that with the right turn signal on that it wasn't clicking through the speakers. Then noted that the arrow wasnt lighting on the dash either. But the lights were still working in the headlight and the tailight. but not the mirror, where to start.
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I have read everything there is on this stupid esof 4x4. But I'm not getting power to the relays. I have checked every fuse listed and have no corrosion or anything. Is it possible that having a ,door ajar light on, constantly cause this I'm stumped.
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No straight answers found yet. It's just the running lights that get stuck on.
I don't have auto lights, and after a period of a minute or 2 the lights pop off. There must be a relay sticking somewhere.
Looking for a diagram that shows where the relay for running lights is located?
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The battery light is on when running. The light is dim at idle. Light is bright when driving with rpm's. The battery voltage is 12.8 per my older volt gauge. Alternator out put is 14 volts at idle and with rpm (2,000) +. I had the Alternator checked at AutoZone in there parking lot. Meter hooked up. The alternator passed all test.
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'08 F350 6.4l 4wd, I had the truck come in with a exploded transfer case. (See pics). Ive read all about this happening to many others. The truck still drove, hubs not locked, plenty of fluid in the TC, pretty sure it was the double Cardan that did it. Anyways I replaced thwith TC, replaced the front driveshaft, filled the TC with recommended fluid. Test drove and drives great, shifts fine. Only until I turned left.
At slow speeds turning hard or 15-20 taking a turn, it sounds like a ratchet clicking from somewhere on the left side, right around the drivers door, from what I can hear from the cab. Does it in 2wd, 4wd hi/low, hubs locked or not. I changed the vacuum pump, no leaks, changed the IWE solenoid, pulled out both locking mechanisms, tightened crossmember, checked everything from the hours of research I did on the internet. I cannot find the problem. I don't know what else to check. Front axles free spin and lock when they are supposed to. I'm at the end...
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My 1999 f-250 7.3 has been sitting for months, and I went to start it and both batteries are dead. Replaced both batteries and at first the alarm went off like normal. Turned the alarm off, hit the unlock button and it beeped like normal. Got in and stuck the key in the ignition and tried to turn it over. Completely dead. Now I cant even get the alarm to go off, showing no signs that its even getting any power. And all I'm hearing is a low clicking noise in the cab.
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I then put in a new starter relay. Still having the same issue. I believe I have a short because I tested for it but am unable to locate the short. I heard if you over work the bushings in the starter they can ground out on the casing which will cause something similar to this to happen. I work in ND and had to cold start it in - temperatures the morning this all began. I purchased a new starter but don't want to put it in if that is not the issue.
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