Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F350 - Left Front Rotor Rubbing On Caliper Bracket
Nov 28, 2016
1999 F350 4x4 dually. Replacing brakes front and back. Rotors, Pads, and hoses. On the left front put rotor back on and torqued down hub nuts on rotor. Then caliper mounting bracket wouldn't fit back between mounting bracket and rotor. Loosened the hub nuts on rotor, and fit mounting bracket in place. Then torqued down the hub nuts again, and rotor rubs on mounting bracket and rotor/hub won't turn.
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I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
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I'm working on a 2007 Camry and I had the wheel bearings pressed in & out at a shop. I put everything back together but the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket. And there is no air gap between the rotor and bracket so it can spin freely without rubbing. The passenger side is fine, there is a little air gap so the rotor can move freely without rubbing. I don't understand why the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper? I checked everything over, the pads and rotor are the correct ones. I also took the pass side caliper bracket and installed it on the driver side and same thing, the rotor still rubs against the bracket.
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My question is my abs light came on so I stuck my computer on it. Said right rear , we'll we all know on a 2007 6.0 f350 4X4, the there's only one sensor on the pumpkin, so I replaced it and cleared the code. Abs light came back on once I started driving, week ago my right front caliper stuck and got very hot, could that read bad for the rear of the front went bad? Will pull plug and make sure I didn't bend any pins.
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Having a problem with calipers again/still seems like always. Replaced all calipers twice in 86K miles on a 2000 f250 crew 4x4 because of stuck calipers. Replaced brake hoses and all hard lines in the rear about 2 years ago. My problem now is the left front caliper is not squeezing hard enough to stop the truck evenly. (pulls to the right) The rotor had some rust from sitting and after driving a for a while the rust is not completely gone as you would expect. Replaced caliper bled a couple of times. Caliper looks to be getting pressure enough to bleed and can see it move when brakes applied when engine not running. I don't have experience with Proportioning Valves but do you think that is the problem and how do I fix it?
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I replaced both front bearings, calipers, brake pads, now I have a grinding noise on the left side front stops sometimes when you step on the brakes? 1999 F350 ...
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I drive a 2006 Ford F350 4x4 Crew Cab. I think the radius arm bushings on my truck are bad. I get a clunk going over bumps on the left side in the front end.
I'm assuming it is the bushing in the rear of the radius arm, but I haven't taken it apart yet because I want to have the parts in hand. I ordered a bushing, part number 5C3Z3B203AA. But it looks too small when I hold it up to it. What is the part numbers for the radius arm bushings?
Or am I looking at the wrong thing for the clunking in the front end? I just did the ball joints with Moog both sides top and bottom. The shock bushings look alright. I have replaced the front sway bar bushings thinking that was it. What else could it be?
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Its a rotational squeak, that sounds like its under the cab or possibly left front tire. The truck only has around 25k miles on it. I recently had a 2" leveling kit installed, 35" tires, and rear airbags installed (within 5k miles). I checked the universals and they seem to ok and there is no noticeable clunk. I am hoping its something small.
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I got a 2001 f350 got a noise in my left front wheel i know its not the wheel bearings, it only makes the noice when the locking hub is unlocked i did jack the the truck up and spun the wheel got a faint grinding noises form what seems like the locking hub so my question is bad locking hub or needle bearing holding the axle shaft??
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I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
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I can't figure out how to get my front brake rotors off to replace them. I removed the caliper and thought the rotors should just come right off but they didn't? I then pulled the hub out and there was a retaining ring with a good size nut behind it , but you shouldn't have to remove the hubs to remove the brake rotors should you?
The stats of the truck are 04 f250 4wd w/manual hubs!
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I've noticed when I'm towing, on long down hill grades if I touch the brakes I get what feels like a rotor causing the steering wheel to shake. At first it was only mild, but today on a long 6% grade it got really bad. Never does it on a level road, I've tried to duplicate it, only on a long down hill grade, and I'm not getting a pulse in the brake pedal at all, only the shake in the steering wheel. It's probably time to replace the pads anyhow, and I'll check the rotors. What things to look at?? 2006 F350, 6.0 dually 4x4.....
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I have for the 4th time in a little over a year developed another issue with a rear caliper hanging up last year i ended up replacing both rear calipers with reman. from NAPA. 3 months ago i had to replace the right rear again. Now currently i am having the left rear starting to hang up again. I've done a fluid flush and everything. I'm kind of at a loss. I don't normally have this much trouble with brakes. Some of the symptoms that go along with this are a spongy pedal and inconsistent brake feel just like when you have air in a line.
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Two weeks ago did a road trip to NH from RI and i heard a slight dragging only at low speed (10-15mph) in my left rear tire. figured the caliber was dragging a little, it was. Before arriving in NH the brake light came on. Long story short i get back to RI and the left side noise gets worse and starts to lock up. I finally replace the rotor which was warped, pads, and caliper which was bad.
Was driving it same day and still here the same dragging and screeching noise and the brake light is still on. On my way home the left side locked up at low speed without hitting breaks and slid the truck, mid you all parts are new on that side. I am not sure what it could be at this point something in side the axle?
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I have a 99 F250 Super Duty 4x4. The u-bolt bracket on the front passenger side has rusted through and broken in two places. It has broken right at the hole for one of the u-bolts, which then broke the sway bar bracket off (so the sway bar is no longer attached on the passenger side). Also, the track bar bracket has broken off.
Is there a replacement bracket that can be purchased? Or does it need to be fabricated from scrap? The u-bolt bracket, sway bar bracket, and track bar bracket are all one whole piece. It is welded to the axle, so it would need to be cut off. Then the new bracket would need to be welded back on.
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I just hit a pothole on my way home just now and now my front right caliper is sticking. It happen about 10min from my house. As soon as i hit the pothole I can feel my truck pulling to the right and felt like there was some resistance when i was driving. I got home and peeked my head in the wheel-well and i can smell the brakes burning and smoking a little. How would hitting a pothole cause a caliper to stick. Is there anyway to unstick it or am i gonna have to change that caliper out...
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My dually has started to make a rubbing or grinding noise just about every time I make a turn, left or right. What this could be, truck has 8500 miles on it.
SD Dually
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Is this repairable or would it be better to just replace it ? Ive never rebuilt one of these.
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I only hear it at low speeds, but I guess that's to be expected. I've heard a similar noise before with other cars/trucks, but I can't recall what causes it. Just looking on tips for where to start looking with the front end parts or wheel/caliper assembly.
Also, but not sure it's related, had a lot of front end wobble when I applied the brakes coming down steep hills last week while pulling a big, but empty, gooseneck trailer. I assumed warped rotors, but later, after I had picked up my load, it quit doing it, albeit I had started babying the brakes. Still, there was one instance of very hard braking and it didn't do it at all, but that was on straight pavement.
It's almost as if having that empty trailer and/or going down a steep hill caused it, and not anything on the truck. But the rubbing sound started before that wobbling. Whatcha think?
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2001 F250 SD diesel. Brakes have been working fine with no pulling. They just started to squeal recently so I knew it was time for some new pads.
I'm having a problem that seems to plague me often when I try to replace disc brake pads. I can't get the twin pistons to go back in to allow room to get the new, thicker pads in.
I unscrewed the cap to the master cylinder and used a spreading tool (that came in a brake kit from Advance Auto Parts) to compress the pistons. No movement.
I put a lot of force on it. No piston movement.
I unscrewed the bleeder screw and tried again. No movement.
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I know this has been talked about many times and how to solve the issue but thought I would ask some other questions too. Earlier in the summer, I did grease the slider pins as preventative maintenance. I don't drive my truck all that much and when I used it yesterday, (about 30 minute drive) I came home to burning brake smell. I'm wondering if enough heat would cause the caliper to go bad? Should I just grease the pins again or change out some parts?
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