I have a 99 F350 with a 29 gallon tank. I filled it up yesterday and the total gallons was a little over 24. The low fuel light was on and the gauge only goes up to almost 3/4. I recently bought this truck. I've searched for a thread on here possibly addressing this but have been unable to find one. I've been going through possible issues in my head.... What the problem is?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2014 350 crew diesel short box. I am told, I have a 28 gallon tank but can't get over 22 gallons in it even though my gauge show e and my read out says I have 10 miles left until empty? Dealer says the left over 6 gallons is a reserve...
View 14 RepliesI'm close to pulling the trigger on a Crew cab F-250 Powerstroke, 156" wheelbase. Need to know about fuel tank capacity? Ford's website and manual are somewhat cryptic. I believe it's 26 gallons.
View 3 RepliesWhen I go to put fuel in my truck. It keeps clicking off? I have to slightly hold the trigger to put gas in it? I have tried to get the vent hose to the tank filler off, but what is the trick to getting the hose off there??
View 5 RepliesFilled up the windshield washer tank this morning and could not get the sprayer to work. Looked under the truck and it looks like all I put in is on the drive. Any one else had issues with 2011 F350 washer tanks?
View 3 RepliesIt doesn't say on the window and in the owners manual I should have a 23 or a 35. The most I've put in my truck is 29.somthing and I had 3 miles till empty and the needle was in the red. I'm thinking I have a 30 gallon tank but how can I find out for sure.
I have a 2015 F250 6.2L CC SB FX4
I have a 2012 f250 6.2L gas that the check engine light, low fuel light and the fuel gauge says it's empty. The truck has a full tank of gas. I am in camp for another 2 weeks and my girlfriend is driving the truck. I am thinking a blown fuse or disconnect the battery to reset the computer could solve it. Hoping it's something I can instruct her to do on her own over the phone.
View 13 RepliesAs I was driving to work yesterday I noticed my fuel gauge going from half tank all the way to full going down the highway. I started looking at the rest and they seem to be in there normal spots. I looked up and watched the outside temp go from 40 degrees to 5. This morning the fuel gauge goes straight to full and the outside temp bounces between 2 degrees and 10. What may be going on to cause this?
The truck is a 2000 F350 crew cab with a 7.3 Power Stroke
I am a little skeptical of this, but someone told me that since I got water in the gas tank of my 2003 F250 I should blow compressed air into the schrader valve on the fuel rails to eject it all into a bucket under the disconnected fuel filter.
View 10 RepliesMy stock OEM fuel tank has a crack in it. I've got to replace it. I was thinking of getting a TransferFlow replacement tank. It would nearly double my capacity. My wife wants me just to go stock to save the money, but I'm thinking the extra capacity would be nice. One thing that did concern me, however, is how much my fuel efficiency might diminish because of the extra weight of the tank (150 lbs) plus fuel. Since it is a gas truck, not many options.
View 8 RepliesNew to me 2003 F250 Super Cab 6.8 V10. Great condition inside and out. 68,000 miles. Began smelling fuel (gas) a few days after driving it 250 miles from purchase location. Traced leak down to the top of the gas tank. Staining was visible around the rear vent. Applied about 5 psi to the tank and sprayed soap around until I saw bubbles coming from a hairline crack at the rear vent connection. Its where the fitting for the hose comes out of the tank.
My first choice would be to hot weld the crack. I'm not very comfortable with the idea of a heat source near a gas tank. I'm not sure, but the heat from the plastic welder might be hot enough to ignite fumes? Second option is to try some industrial 2 part epoxy (PIG) and seal it with that. Is there pressure inside the tank, and if so how much? Can try this fix with epoxy or JB Weld?
In all fairness, this isn't for my SD, but there aren't really any forums for my '94 Villager and all A/C systems work pretty close to the same, so I thought I'd at least throw my question up here and see what comes of it. It's a bit of a hodge podge of manufacturers (Mercury, Nissan, Ford, Mitsubishi), but it's a Mercury, so technically a Ford.....ish.
My A/C crapped out last summer, so I finally got around to rebuilding it earlier this summer. I replaced absolutely everything except the rear expansion valves and the evaporators, which I flushed out with A/C flush and compressed air real good. Then I blew a line on a dirt road because I didn't get a line all the way clipped in. I got a bit paranoid about grit in the line, so I went ahead and replaced the line and dropped in a new dryer, sucked it all out good again, put a splash of POG oil in there, and filled it up with 134a.
According to the specs I could find, the capacity of my system is 52oz, or 4.3 of the standard 12oz cans. I always bleed the lines between cans to rid the lines of air and moisture as much as I can, so 4.5 cans usually gets about 52oz in the system. Anyways, it was 90 outside, so my readings should be 45-55 and 250-270. After adding 4.5 cans, and letting it run for a bit, my readings were still a bit low and my vent temp was only 60, so I went ahead and finished off the can. They were still reading low, so I sorta reluctantly hooked up another can and started filling. It sucked the whole can right up any my readings were 45 over 220 with vent temp at about 57. The low side is about on the low end of the acceptable range, but the high side still isn't quite up to the desired range and I don't want to stick another can in even though my readings indicate I'm not over-filled. I'm wondering if something's not right in there, or if maybe I'm just expecting too much from a 23 year old A/C design...?
Strolling into work today at 35-45 mph, it was a touch over 80 outside and my vent temp was a smudge over 40, so I guess that's not too bad. My radiator fans works fine, but they don't move a bunch of air. I usually drop an additional ~15 degrees when I'm on the move as opposed to sitting at idle.
I bought a 2006 F250 6.0L a couple of months ago, from a dealership. It's been bulletproofed already, has an intake, coolant filter kit. Has 95k (mileage). Today, my fuel gauge dropped to empty from 3/4 of a tank for a couple of miles and set off the CE light. I hooked my scan tool to it, to clear the code (P0460).
After just checking other things out with the scan tool. I cleared it and went on... I had to run to the store, later on... I was pulling out of the neighborhood and the gas pedal was a lot more "touchy" and the truck, responded to it and it launched pretty good and blew a good amount of black smoke.
Do any of you think this has/or had a tuner on it and I may have activated it with my scanner?
I recently bought a 2005 Ford F250 Super Duty, diesel 6.0.
As I was driving to work this morning I noticed that the fuel gauge read almost full when it should have only had a half tank. A little while later I heard a beep and saw that the gauge was now on empty with a "Low Fuel" message displayed. Then I noticed the heater was suddenly blowing cold air.
I've only had the truck for a few weeks, but haven't had any other problems. I did replace the CD receiver and all of the instrument cluster lights a couple weeks ago, but everything seemed to be working fine after.
Here within the next couple weeks, i am wanting to do some routine maintenance. right now on my list is just an oil change along with the fuel filter.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 F 350 Diesel. When the heater is on, I can smell diesel fuel through the vent. This happens mainly when I am at a stop sign and the fan is on high. I did some research on this forum and found some others with a similar problem. The question I have is it seems like some said it was the cracked injector cups or a leak at the reservoir on top of the motor where the filter is. What I wasn't sure of was the symptoms. If it is a crack injector cup, would the smell be all the time and not just when I am stopped at a stop sign? Or would it be intermittent as well? It is definitely not exhaust smell. It smells like fuel. If it is the gaskets in the reservoir, I think I will do the blue spring replacement cause that seemed to improve a couple things based on the treads of the forum. I do see drips on the pavement every once in a while at the front of the truck towards the passenger side of the truck. Not all the way to the side near the tire, but off center on the passenger side. Is there anything that could be leaking fuel on that side of the motor?
View 4 RepliesI just bought a used 2004 F-350, 4x4, crew cab, short bed, 6.0L diesel. I'm having a WTF moment on fuel. Gage indicates just under 1/4 of a tank of diesel but the on-board computer is flashing like crazy stating 5 miles to empty, what the hell is that all about?
View 1 RepliesI recently purchased 1999 7.3 PSD The owners manual says that the crank case holds 14 qts. I have read on other sites 15 quarts. In my engine 14 is barely at the add mark. The cross hatch area is 2 quarts to the high mark. My question is should I put is 15 quarts to get the level up onto the cross-hatched area or leave it down at the add mark ?? I'm using Motorcraft 15 W 40 Dino oil. and I replaced the filter with the correct Fram filter.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 f-350 with the 5.4. The fuel pump is not running, have voltage at the inertia switch but none at the pump. Where the pump driver module is located at?
View 2 RepliesOK, I have a 2002 F350 with 160k miles that cranks fine, but has a hard time starting when it is cold. By cold I mean that it is not hot from being driven in the last 5 hrs or so. No problem starting after being at rifle practice for 3 hrs or after a trip to the store. Always have trouble starting in the morning, like this morning when the temperature outside was 49 deg. I have to crank for quite a while to get it to turn over, but once it catches, it runs like a champ. Afraid I'm going to wear my starter or batteries out because It seems like I have to crank for about 2 minutes.
I have a fairly new CPS replaced less than 15k miles ago, new glow plugs, and recently replaced the leaky bleeder valve on the bowl. This difficult starting condition came about some time before the bleeder valve seal repair, and is still doing it after the repair. This problem seems to have cropped up on it's own unrelated to any work I have done. I am using Mobile 1 5W-40 diesel oil. When the no start occurs, there is no smoke present out of the tail pipe like what you would get if you had bad glow plugs. There is just no fuel getting into the injectors.
I bought my 2005 F-350 Diesel 6.0 Brand New. Whenever my low fuel light comes on, I only have a few miles to go before I run out of diesel. Is there a way to adjust this light so it will come on with maybe 20-30 miles to go before running out? Its seems to only have maybe a gallon in the tank when this light comes on...
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