Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 Won't Start Without Starting Fluid
Jun 13, 2013
My 1999 F-250 wont start unless I use a squirt of fluid but once started it will run fine could this be my cam sensor or do I have an injector problem.
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1999 F250 SD... Tranny fluid is low, tranny slipped one time on me. I checked the fluid and it's low. No drips on the garage floor, so I'll have to inspect closer. But my question is can I add new fluid without screwing it up even more? It's got 170,000 miles and I doubt the fluid has ever been changed. I just bought the truck last week, so I can't say for sure, but it hasn't had a regular flush or change. It doesn't smell burnt but it's just a little darker than new fluid. I was told by the guy I bought it from that the torque converter was changed in it not too long ago.
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I am looking at purchasing a 1999 f250 Crew Cab Long bed with the V10. It has 120,000 miles on it and has been very well taken care of and maintained. The current owner says that over the last couple of weeks it has started to start sporadically. The first time it did it was after a 30 minute drive. Parked the truck outside his garage and a hour later when he went to pull it in the garage, it wouldn't start. He called a mechanic friend that told him to trip the inertia switch.
Pressed the switch, it clicked, and then the truck fired right up. Since then it has done it twice more but now instead of tripping the inertia switch he turns the key on and off 10 times and then it starts right up. What this would be? I would normally think fuel pump since cycling the key on and off would be building pressure in the system if the pump was just starting to die but the inertia switch being tripped has me confused.
The owner thinks or was told that quickly turning the key off and on is resetting the computer and after turning the key 8 times the locks lock and unlock and the lights flash once. Is this what it is doing? I thought turning the key on and off in multiple succession let you manually read the codes...
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I just bought this Super Duty with a 5.4L engine. I want to do a fluid change on the transmission. From what I read, this transmission needs to be hot flushed in order to change out all the fluid. I have not called my dealer yet to see if they do hot flushes. If my local dealer does not have this machine, can I just drop the old fluid from the pan and be ok? I have not gotten under the truck yet to see if it has an external filter.
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I am scared. The cooling fluid of my 2000 F-250 is brownish. I am not sure if it is Oil, which would be bad. Is there a way that I can find out what it is? I'd like to get an opinion of my own before I take it to a repair shop.
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So I'm off work today, and want to service the transmission. I've got both filters, and a 18 quarts of SP, but am not familiar with this transmission, and understand there's no drain plug for the converter. Want to get all of the fluid out, best I can. I'm at 153,000 on this truck with no issues. I do not desire to flush, just want a fluid change.
Searching the forums brings up a lengthy list of transmission threads, but nothing yet that gives me the step-by-step.
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My 2003 F-250 (gas V8) will always start right up when it is cold. However, once it has warmed up, it often will not start. Cranks fine, but not even wanting to start (like someone pulled all the plug wires) and has left me stranded until I wait for 3+ hours for it to cool back down. Doesn't trip the check engine light, but seems to be due to the engine being hot. What this could be?
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I have a quick question. I am gonna change the fluid in my 01 f250 rear end. it has 410 gears and a limited slip diff. if i use full synthetic gear oil do i have to add the limited slip additive or just the 75w-140 full synthetic gear oil.
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2004 f250 wipers and fluid not working Done the usual stuff checked the fuses in the cab and the 15amp fuse is good and the 30 amp fuse is good. Is there something under the hood i should look at?
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1999 F250 SD V10 I recently replaced the in-tank fuel pump and filter. I operated the truck briefly after and everything was normal. I parked it with about 1/4 tank of new fuel and put it on a battery tender. It was parked in a garage on level ground in temperate weather(Southern Calif.). Two months later I tried to start it and it acted like it did when the fuel pump was bad. Cranked fine but no hint of starting. Could it be the fuel lines have become full of air and need purging through Schrader valve ? I haven't begun to troubleshoot but what to check other than pushing the fuel relay reset button.
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My diesel truck is stuck at work. It cranks but it's not starting up. When I turn the key, the glow plug light takes a lot longer than usual to turn off. When I try to start the truck, it cranks fine and I get a lot of white smoke coming out the exhaust pipe. I've had this truck less than a year and I know very little about Diesel engines. I at least need to get it running long enough to get home. The parking lot at work is really busy pretty much 24/7 and towing it out of there would get pretty dicey.
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I have a 2008 f-250 6.4 Diesel. Yesterday the Brake Fluid light came on. I thought maybe a sensor, but once I parked and checked I realized my brake fluid was down to the Min line. I started looking for a leak and it was apparent that it was the front drivers wheel area.
I am attaching a picture of the brake. The leak is either coming from the area where the fluid line runs into the gold thing (caliper?) or the bolt at the bottom of the gold thing.
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I have a new to me 2000 F250 7.3 diesel with automatic. Truck has 185K miles and tranny is starting to slip occasionally. Do these trucks come with a OEM tranny cooler or do I need to add or upgrade the OEM one. Someone also told that there is something called "bulletproofing" the tranny on these trucks. BTW, what would be a reasonable cost to have a two wheel drive auto tranny done on my truck?
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I have a 2000 F250 7.3 manual tranny that was put away for winter storage and now will not start. Need it to get my weekend work done now that the snow is finally gone. Symptoms:
- not cranking
- no dash lights (no oil light, battery light, etc.)
- radio works
- head lights work
- key buzzer works
- can hear clicking when turn key (assume solenoid OK)
Put in two new batteries, fully charger and terminals are clean. Where should I start looking?
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Just started having this issues on my 2012 F250 6.7 with 71K. Turn the key and no problems. Once I start my truck service advance track pops up, along with the e-brake light and some other lights before all shutting off. I then loose all functions in my instrument cluster, window controls, AC/heat controls. The truck still runs and drives with no problems I just have no dash functions. My blinkers and headlights still work (with no cluster indicating). Fog lights do not work. Turn the truck on and off and the problem repeats itself.
I did get stuck in a massive rain storm with some big puddles last night. Went to dinner and started having the problems on the way home. The functions were temperamental last night but seem to be worse today.
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Need to diagnose my truck issues. On my 2002 F250 V10, when I try to start it, the engine just cranks and cranks and cranks with no fire or even hint if starting. I am not sure if it has no spark or isn't getting any fuel. I just replaced all ten spark plugs and coils less than 500 miles ago. I want to perform the fix myself, but I need to get the problem diagnose the issue first.
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I have for the 4th time in a little over a year developed another issue with a rear caliper hanging up last year i ended up replacing both rear calipers with reman. from NAPA. 3 months ago i had to replace the right rear again. Now currently i am having the left rear starting to hang up again. I've done a fluid flush and everything. I'm kind of at a loss. I don't normally have this much trouble with brakes. Some of the symptoms that go along with this are a spongy pedal and inconsistent brake feel just like when you have air in a line.
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I have a 2003, F250 SD, 5.0 with a weird problem no one can figure out. Now it doesn't matter what time of the year it is but after the truck sits a few days when I go to start it up it run roughs. Sometimes for a few seconds sometimes a few minutes then it "straightens" itself out. Recently it took almost a day to fix itself. No engine codes, no other symptoms.
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OK so my 2001 F250 was leaking power steering fluid from the lower portion of the gearbox (where the pitman arm attaches).
I found a thread on this forum where it showed how you could change the seals out WITHOUT taking the gearbox out.
So I got the pitman arm off with a heavy duty puller. Then I scraped out the 1st rubber seal hoping to reveal a snap ring behind it. Well, the seal is 99% scraped off, but there is not evidence of a snap ring. It does seem like there is some metallic ring holding another rubber seal in behind it. But again, I can't find the little open spots that you put your snap ring pliers in to get snap rings out.
How do I get this metallic thingy out???? I already broke a small drill bit trying to drill it out. It just doesn't seem like the best way to go about it.
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I just picked up an 09 F250 a couple of weeks ago and I was planning on replacing all the fluids since I'm not sure when everything had been done in the past, but it did pull a camper 5th wheel. It has about 93000 Km/57000mi on it
One thing I noticed when reading the manual is that a rear diff fluid change is not necessary on these rear axles unless they have been submerged in water or repaired etc..
Just after I got it I noticed the pinion seal was leaking. It was fixed under warranty but the dealer did not replace the diff fluid as they said Ford will not pay for it.
My question is do you think I need to replace the diff fluid or should it still be good, given the relatively low mileage.
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I own a 1999 F350 with a 7.3 diesel engine, every time I drive it, it will start once then it won't start again for hours. At first I thought the starter was getting hot because of the exhaust is too close to it but I tested the wires going to the starter and i am not getting power to the starter when this happens. When it started doing this, it would only act up if it was above 80 degrees outside. Now it makes no difference. I have replaced the Valve cover gaskets, glow plug solenoid, and starter solenoid.
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