Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 Will Not Start After Removal Of SCT Flash Tuner
Jun 26, 2017
Yesterday I returned my F-250 SUPERDUTY 5.4 To stock on the sct flash tuner that came on the truck. after returning it to stock i tried to start the truck to leave about an hour later and instantly wouldnt start it backfired. we returned it back to the tune that was on the truck, still no start. we replaced the starter, the battery still nothing. if it sits for a little while it will attempt to turn over. it has a strong odor of gas in which led me to possibly thinking its vapor locked? or the pcm being bad or maybe the crank shaft sensor? the truck has ran strong and had zero problems up until now when we took the tuner off. it runs about 6 codes now, a few being the kam the o2 and low voltage.
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This truck ran 100% fine with the tuner, exhaust DPF/EGR off, i had received an HPFP code because the tuner is used to the old ford flash, not the new flash that widen the HPFP parameters, the one that Ford screwed over your 100k warranties. Anyhow, i took it to the dealer to get the HPFP replaced. My truck ran fine I just wanted the HPFP replaced as I'd rather pay 3k$ now than 10,000$ when it gets shavings in the line.
I told them there is a tuner on it, apparently they took the tuner off and reflashed it to fords most recent programming. They called me and said it won't start. So i came up to check it out and turned the key cluster came on, but no crank, no starter, nothing. as if a security parameter was in place or something. Plugged the tuner back in and tried to install a tune to see if it would fix it. No luck there.
Is this a case of them running the truck with the tuner off and it going into regen thinking the DPF is there? You can turn the key and the cluster goes on and now has a wrench symbol as it didnt when i brought it in. What are my options? I know i made a mistake taking to them, but i didnt think they would take it off and screw it up. Im pissed because theyre telling me its my fault with aftermarket parts on it. Even though my truck ran fine before coming to them now it wont move...
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Experiencing a melt down with one of my trucks. One of our trucks is an 06 F250 SD with 80k on a 5.4L and the other day the tow/haul light started to flash. I took it to a buddy's repair shop (who is an experienced Ford tech and tranny guy) any way, it shifted fine until about the last 1/2 mile before I got to his shop, then it started shifting in and out of different gears. He found solenoid "A" pressure solenoid failure and one other solenoid failure, he replaced all 7 solenoids and also found the pigtail from the transmission to the wire harness bad as well and replaced that. I pick it up and get about a mile down the road and the light starts to flash again so I took it back, he ran his scanner and now found something with the coast clutch and through all his testing it told him the coast clutch needs replaced. He removed the trans. and tore it all down and found nothing wrong with anything, in fact he said everything looked in great shape and thinks the pcm failed.
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I dont want to pry on the wrong thing and brake something. I am trying to remove the headlight. I was told that their are some pins that need to be pulled up. I dont see any pins. I do see two plastic clips on each side of the headlight. They are flat on the top with a small slot in them. There is a "T" stamped on the top of it. Are these the pins? I tried to find a shop manual today without much luck. Looking for a picture to show the pins that need to be removed.
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I am trying to replace the ball joint on my 2008 f-250. Does the hub assembly come off of the knuckle or do you remove the whole knuckle and hub assembly together? If you have to remove the hub assembly what is the best way?
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I just bought an 2015 F250 4x4 6.2L (gas) I am thinking about buying a programmer/tuner for it. I am planning on taking the truck pulling a 28' camper to Florida this summer. My goal is to get the most gas mileage I can out of the truck.
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I want to know if there are any issues when removing the rear block, also do I have to put a new block in or can I just leave it out ....
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I tried searching and googling but came to no results, unless its like similar trucks. How do the 4x4 shift remove? I have an 04 F250 and someone decided to put the shift on sideways so the 4HI and etc read upside down before I purchased the truck. Do I just rip the thing off?
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I would like information how to remove the rear seat back on a 2012 F250. I want to remove the head rests and from what I can find out they are bolted solid to the rear panel. I asked the same question earlier and got a reply for 2011, would that be the same? Is there any place I could get a schematic, a picture is worth a thousand words.
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I have a 1999 F-250 SRW 4x2. Is there a post that explains how to remove the front brake slide pins?
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i've done some searching but haven't found any how-to's or instructions on how to remove the front bumper on my 06 f250. Any link on how to do it?
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I started with removing the two bolts that hold the carrier bearing to the crossmember that attaches on each side of the frame, well the clip that basically would hold the "nut part" of the bolt on the top side sheared on both of them due to salt+calcium chloride.
It felt like there was a 6 point head up there so I tried fitting wrenches and sockets up on the other side, I finally got a good hold with an 11/16" wrench but it just kept rounding more and more. Normally I would just torch the heads off but the gas tank is right next to it.
Any tips for getting the carrier bearing bolts out now? I don't care if I destroy it they're easy to replace. Also I'm typing this from my phone so Incase my sig doesn't show this is on my 02 f250 crew short bed 4x4
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I bought my 2000 F-250 CCSB a while ago and it came with 2 keys - one for the ignition, and one for the doors/tailgate - may not seem like a big deal, but it annoys me to no end.
From my understanding, the truck had previously been stolen and had the driver's side lock punched, and then something happened to the ignition lock to where it had to be replaced - hence the different key. I finally got around to replacing all the locks so that I'd only have one key. I started with the doors, then moved to the ignition (which I thought would be the easy part). I've replaced several cylinders before and I know it should be simple, but for the life of me I can't get the cylinder out!
I push the detent, turn the key to run, wiggle and pull.... nothing. I can feel the detent push in, and the cylinder will move a little, but it won't come out. I'm not sure if this is something that just happens sometimes and there's a fix for it, or if I'm in a unique circumstance and my column was somehow damaged during the theft and that's what's causing it.
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I've got a 2014 f250 xl super cab and can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the back seat back.
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I'm wanting to grease the center spline on my drive shaft. I got the 4 bolts off with a 12mm 16 point boxed in wrench but can't get the drive shaft loose from the rea rend. I don't blindly want to go beating it out of the yoke with a hammer to try to knock it loose (but I will if I have to). What am I missing to get this shaft out?
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I need to replace the front passenger side wheel hub unit on my 2012 F250 4x4 120,000 mile reg cab truck. Its been a while but I did one on my 2000 F250 without any problems. There should be a few clips inside the hub that hold the looking hub and shaft together, right? Do I need any special tools for this job? What do the bolts need to be torqued to?
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I have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
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I have a 2000 F250 with a V10, that won't start or turn over. I replaced the solenoid on the fender well, auto store check the starter 3 times and said it was good, new battery installed and same issue of not starting.
Here is a video of what it does when attempting to start : F250 starting issue - YouTube....
Where and what to look at?
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I have a 2000 f 250 that will not start... I have replaced many parts all electronic sensorsm the past week i have spent in the neighborhood of 1800.00 on this truck. Cps, icp, idm, ebps, fuel filter, new oil, hpop level good, gpr, all new need starting........
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From reading some of the posts on here it seems this is an air bag warning. 5 chimes five times in a row. The fuze is fine and there are no warning lights on the dash.
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My trouble is upon turning key to start everything goes dead (no power to anything). Does not always happen, sometimes she starts just fine.
After the power cut out if I turn key off, wait a minute, then back to on position she will sometimes come back as normal or sometimes the on "ding" will chatter and dash lights will be dim.
I have checked batt connections, starter/solenoid connections, block ground connection. All seems fine. Get same problem when I jump starter with screwdriver. Been suggested to me ignition switch to blame.
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