Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 Loose All Power When Ignition Key Is Turned?
May 6, 2015
1999 5.4L F250 ... When I turn my ignition all my lights come on and I have power to dash and etc, battery is strong, but when I turn the key I get nothing even when I do the shifter trick for the slip we get on most fords nothing took ignition lock cylinder out and blasted it with electronic connection cleaner, when key is turn i loose all power to everything and there is no "click" or i gage from anything under the hood or the starter rally confused!
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My steering is "loose", All front end parts are in good shape but I can move the steering wheel 4 or 5 inches back and forth without the wheels moving. Ball joints and tie rod ends are good. Truck only has 185000 miles on it.
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My 2010 6.4 F250 seems has a loose steering wheel. The steering of the truck hasn't changed nor has there been uneven wear on the tires. It doesn't drift if I let the steering wheel go. Had the front end inspected and was told it's all good under there.
YET, my actual steering wheel is loose. I can grab the wheel and wiggle it front to back and side to side. It FEELS like the bolts that hold the steering wheel to the column are loose. What was the cause/repair? Is this something I can repair myself or a local shop? Or is this a dealer fix?
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I have a F250 SD with a 6.0 diesel. My steering wheel is loose. I tested and know for sure is not a problem inside the cabin. Fallow the line thru the linkage to the steering box by the left front wheel. I found an adjustable switch there. Just on top of the steering box. It has a lock nut that must be loosen to adjust what it looks like a hex. Very hard to reach. I have watch some Youtube videos but on different vehicles.
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My rear wheel bearing are a little loose. This afternoon while diagnosing a squeak in the back I found this. While pushing the truck side to side there is a clunk and when you lay your hand on the tire you can feel it, bearings are loose. Nothing during the operation of the truck to give this away, truck runs and drives as it should but I need to check it our before something does go wrong. What I'm looking for is a torque / preload that the rear wheel bearings need to be set at.
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My 2002 F250 is knocking loose the front end assembly--the gasket is worn out. So I was shopping around and was considering a beefed-up front end assembly.
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I just bought an 09 f-250 lariat 6.4 . It has 100k on it. Was driving it AC was working fine. Next time I got in it went to turn the AC Auto on and nothing..the display works fine..lights work..looks like it is working, but nothing. No fan no anything.
Also, the check engine light will come on too. Then next day everything works fine again. Check engine light is out..everything looks perfect. Then this morning the same thing happened..check engine light and no AC.
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My 11 cc lb 4x4 6.2 has a clunking/loose sound coming from the front end. It is prominent when going over small/medium bumps but not so much large bumps. I have had my local dealer and a couple local shops look at it and they all say everything checks out. It definitely seems like something is loose in the front suspension. I just put new Gabriel max control shocks on all four corners. I have no play in wheel bearings or ball joints. Tie rod ends also look fine.
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How do you get the door chime to go away when the key is still in the ignition?
Also, how do stop the driver seat from moving every time the key is removed?
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I just bought the truck and the ac was working and now out of nowhere when you turn it on it just blows hot air so I just assumed it was out of free on so I bought an ac pro but that did nothing.
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My '04 f250 with a 6.8 V10 will periodically stop like you shut off the key. It will restart immediately, but you have to shut off the key first. Associated with this are all sorts of codes that appear to be spurious like something is glitching the computer. When it started we were moving out of state so I took it to my mechanic. They chased the codes and found nothing out of whack.
Codes cleared and the next time it happened new ones appeared. The last time it did it the transmission temp gauge quit working, but comes and goes when I drive it. I also have a problem with the key fob needing to be reprogrammed when it happens and the codes showing it is in learning mode like it had been reset or the battery disconnected I am pretty sure it is a wiring problem or maybe the ECU power relay is bouncing.
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Upgrading ignition coils on 5.4's? Looking to upgrade mine and only came across a few and the reviews are mixed. I am primarily looking to smooth out the idle and gain some minimal power and maybe get a flicker of a gain in mpg.
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Starts fine most of the time. Then suddenly key will turn but not engage ignition. Power OK to everything but ignition. Have replaced starter & ignition module. Still does the same thing. Leave for a while & truck starts fine. 2006 F250 6 litre diesel ...
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Ok here goes I dive a 1999 f250 super duty with 5.4 it's automatic 4x4. I dropped my kids off at school and was headed home turned a corner when the oil/temperature light flashed and the truck just quit. I tried restarting it and it just clicked like the battery dead. Had my better half come and jump it. Did not work it would only roll about a half Revolution and stop. So we towed it home where I put the battery on the charger. Now I can't even get it to roll over. And yes there is oil and it did not over heat.
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I've had DTC P0171 & P0174 (lean in bank 1 and lean in bank 2) for a few weeks now (check engine light cued me on it). Autozone scanned it for me. It's on a 2003 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L.
My first step was to clean the MAFS. Light came back on in about 30-40 miles. I then replaced the MAFS. 30-40 miles and the light came back on.
My first thought was disconnecting the battery wasn't resetting the comp and thats why the light was comming back on.
I went and picked up an Actron cheapy OBD II Scanner today at lunch. Cleared the codes with the scanner and drove back to work.
Checked the codes when I got back (no light on but was curious) and it shows P0171 & P0174 pending.
I've checked and the dipstick is seated properly. The hoses on the air intake appear to seated properly as well. The top hose is a pretty loose fit but it was seated all the way down. The top hose was oily. Not sure if this is normal or not. Could the loose fitting oily hose be the culprit?
Also, what is the lower hose? It comes off the back of the air intake and goes to the driver side valve cover. I know it's not the PCV hose as that is on the passenger side valve cover....right?
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I have a 2006 F250 and my 7pin and 4 pin connectors are just hanging loose. I'm not sure what happened to the factory bracket. What is the part number for this bracket? Also, where does it mount to? I looked under the truck and couldnt tell where the factory one mounts.
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I bought my 2000 F-250 CCSB a while ago and it came with 2 keys - one for the ignition, and one for the doors/tailgate - may not seem like a big deal, but it annoys me to no end.
From my understanding, the truck had previously been stolen and had the driver's side lock punched, and then something happened to the ignition lock to where it had to be replaced - hence the different key. I finally got around to replacing all the locks so that I'd only have one key. I started with the doors, then moved to the ignition (which I thought would be the easy part). I've replaced several cylinders before and I know it should be simple, but for the life of me I can't get the cylinder out!
I push the detent, turn the key to run, wiggle and pull.... nothing. I can feel the detent push in, and the cylinder will move a little, but it won't come out. I'm not sure if this is something that just happens sometimes and there's a fix for it, or if I'm in a unique circumstance and my column was somehow damaged during the theft and that's what's causing it.
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2007 ford f250 .... 200k on it ....
Just had refurb engine installed with new oil elements as well. On a 9 hr road trip, the wrench light came on but no other warning lights.
No stock gauges showed any raises in levels.
No noticed loss of power at all.
The light would only come on once I drove at about 75 mph for about 10+ miles. It would not turn off when i slowed down, but when I would kill the truck and restart it, the light would be off. Just driving in town or on the highway briefly, nothing comes on. Took it in to oreillys to get scanned and they tell me a few codes pull up but none of them are valid. What would trigger the wrench?
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I have an 04 F250 6.0L and for the last month or so when I turn on my AC it makes a high screetching noise but only last for a little bit. Had a friend that works on cars on the side take a look at it one day and he said it was the AC cutch trying to engage. Does this sound like what it could be? Also if it is can it be changed out without having to remove the compressor? What all is involved in changing it out?
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Headlights work well w/ ignition switch off. High/low/passing all ok. When I turn the ignition switch on, there's a strange wheezing sound for a second.
When the ignition switch is on, there are no headlights.
What's the wheezing sound? Why does the power to the switch quit with the key on? The more I work on modern trucks, the more I like my 1968 f-250.
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I have a 2001 f250 5.4 triton. My cb antenna hole leaked water in cab, soaked my fuse block. Horn goes on and off, radio turns on without key in ignition, truck only starts when key is on and I bridge solenoid, and number 4 coil is not firing. I have let truck dry out, fixed the leak. Everything is bad to normal except starting issue and coil issue.
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