While driving down the road the truck will just cut off. We wait a few mins and start it again can drive a few miles and it cuts off again. we have replaced the ignition coils and it is still doing this. No codes are coming up to get any idea what it can be?
View 14 RepliesI have a 99' f250 I purchased a few months ago. Here's what happened. Today I was driving down the road and it started to surge. I pulled over and shut the truck off. When I went to start it, the motor turned over slow for a sec and then clicked. When I put a jump pack to it, it fired up. I took it home with the jumper still hooked to it and checked voltage. The alternator was throwing 33.4 volts!! I went to the auto parts store and bought a new battery and alternator. Now the battery shows 11.7 volts steady. The alternator still reads 33.4. Also, if I unplug the positive lead while it's running, the truck shuts off. And one more thing. If the key is off and I reconnect the positive lead, I can hear the fuel rail pressurize. What is going on? I hate electrical gremlins.
View 6 RepliesAbout 20 miles into it, and it starts cutting out on me under load, over about 1/4 throttle. I baby it a ways further, and park at a wal-mart. Idles fine, but once again, after 1/4 runs like crap, acts like it's back firing through the intake spit and sputtering. Have the wife come pick me up since I was heading to work. Decided to shut it off, and restart, and it acts like its never had a problem.
Was messing with it today, and let it warm up in the driveway. Once it got hot, same story good 1/4 throttle, past that, not so much. Shut it off, started it back up and drove it to see if there's any codes at vatozone. Drove good (laying into the throttle) for about 2-3 minutes, back to same behavior. Hooked up code reader, no current codes, and no historic codes. Although I did notice (actually since I bought the truck) that the check engine light never comes on, even at initial start up. Looking at my spare cluster, it's an l.e.d. So no bulb out I guess unless the led is bad. Truck has around 130,000 miles on it. Everything is stock.
I'm leaning toward a fuel pump, a clogged cat, or a fuel pump relay or cutoff switch problem.. It doesn't have any other issues than that, and has been a good truck for the 10k miles I've owned it... 2003 F250 5.4...
I replaced the head gaskets on a 2006 F250 6.0 Diesel, put it all back together and started it up. It ran great for a lil bit, then it started cutting out. It did this for about an hour then I killed it and it took a little bit to restart it, spinning over and over to get it to run, this took place several times. The engine died and now it will not start. I keep getting codes P2284 and P2290. What could be causing this problem??
View 9 RepliesOn my way home a couple days ago, my navigation/stereo display started cutting out, and I noticed it only did it when putting additional current load on the system (windows, lights, etc...). I shut the truck off and there wasn't enough juice to start it.
I test at the battery and it is down to 11.4V. I was able to jump the truck and get it going. While running, I only have 11.1V at the battery. I assume this means that my Alternator has taken a dive.
I'm only posting to see if there is something else that I should considering as well... like a voltage regulator or something, but maybe that is built into the alternator?
I'm planning on hitting napa this afternoon to pick up an alternator unless someone tells me otherwise. I'm also interested in opinions on the best alternator to get and/or upgrade.
01 F350...4R100/V-10/4wd. Sometimes get a vibration driving down the road. First thought of tire out of balance but then the vibration goes away and may not come back for a few days or more. It starts sometimes around 30-40 mph and stays all the way up to around 65 mph. Even slowing down it vibrates or shakes. I can stop and take off again with nothing happening. Would think tires out of balance would do it all the time. And a few times....pulling my 5th wheel...making a right turn out of a parking lot.....it feels like a rumble from the rear.
View 2 RepliesIt's an 02 f250 4x4 crew with 7.3, 6 in lift and 35 in tires. It has all ways wandered a little bit and I just accepted it. I changed everything in the steering from ball joints, tie rods and drag links less than 2000 miles ago. Everything still seems good and tight. Recently it has gotten a lot worse so I checked again and everything seems to be tight. Where to or what to check next? It's to the point I don't feel safe letting my wife drive it and I don't enjoy driving it.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford f250 6.0. When driving it down the road i will hear a loud spinning sound, sorta like putting a playing card in your bicycle spokes. The sound can be heard until I make a complete stop where at that time the sound stops and a clunk can be felt. After that the truck sounds normal. This also only happens once between starting the truck and turning it off. I took it into the shop and they could not hear the sound, all they said is i need new ball joints.
View 6 RepliesA few weeks ago, my employees were driving home one of my work trucks, a 2001 F350 7.3 4x4 Crew w. 130K miles. They were on a straight road in a small town when the steering went completely out. The truck veered into a telephone pole. No one was injured. The truck has major damage to the front passenger's side.
I finally got the truck back to my shop today. It is quite evident what caused the problem. The gear/splined shaft that protrudes from the steering box and is connected to the pitman arm sheared completely off.
2004 F-250. 6.0 I was driving down the road when the engine dies. It was like I had turned off the key. When I tried to restart it, it was no click, no starter sound, nothing. The glow plug light remained on, even while turning the key over. What could cause this?
View 10 RepliesI have a super duty with the 5.4 in it. it just quit while off road n wouldn't start back up. pulled it back to camp, wiggled wires around cam n crank sensors n it fired up n stalled numerous times then just wouldn't even fire back up. loaded on trailer n brought home, buddy put his tester on there n said there was no rpm reading so I replaced the crank sensor, it fired up n stalls still. wires seem to be good to crank n cam sensors. don't have a manual to tell me what relays are what.
View 11 Replies1999 5.4 ... I was just driving down road and truck suddenly wouldnt shift into overdrive/higher gear. pulled to side of road and the motor was revving very high at 2500 rpm. shut truck off and on a few times...kept doing it until finally after a while it went back to normal....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 6.0 133000 miles will be driving down the road will start to hesitate and looses powers and shuts off. wont start back up but if you wait 10 to 15 minutes will start up and run just fine. wont do it again. Just had new head studs put in new head gasket and egr delete 2 new injectors put in
View 3 RepliesHave a 06 f350 just rebuilt the engine. Started up ran it down the road a couple miles and lost low side oil pressure. Got back to the house and will not start again so put a gauge on and it only has 3 lbs after cranking for 10-15 sec. Pulled the balancer and lpop cover and front cover had some deeper scoring then before. No noticeable stuff in the pan or filter. Changed out the front cover and lpop. Still has only about 5 psi.
View 3 RepliesMy 1997 F250, 4x4, 460, auto has started dying with no warning while driving from 5 to 30 miles. Changed the fuel filter and the fuse under the hood. Where to start.
View 14 RepliesI've got a 99 f250 5.4 that runs like a top. In the last 6 months I've been chasing a little problem. It doesn't happen all the time but seem to be happen more and more. While driving any speed If I let off the gas the RPM's hold at around 1500 then surges down to 1000 then back up again to 1500.
Does that 2 to 4 times then all good. Give it gas again it does it again. It kind of does it when it wants. Could be fine for a trip around then next trip it acts up again. Checked a lot of the vacuum lines, PVC valve and replaced the idle control next to the EGR valve. EGR is next.
Idles and runs fine except the surge thing..
P0401 code as well.
I have a question about my 2001 Ford F250 and the scary road sway I experience on the highway.
I thought it was the garbage and nearly bald tires and the fact that the fronts were bigger than the back, (Previous Owner). I went and got new E rated 265's from Discount Tire.
It actually made the swat feel worse. I thought maybe the tire guys inflated them all to 80 PSI as the sidewalls indicated. I check today and found that they went with the recommended PSI on the door sticker. 60 Front and 80 rear. But this is for the Tire size listed on the sticker.
After the tires cooled here at home I increased the PSI to 80 all the way around. I am having trouble finding my specific problem even though there is a lot of talk in many forums about this issue.
If this does not work should I try lower PSI in the rears and leave the front at 80? Should I try a front steering stabilizer shock? I did tighten up the steering box and took the minor slop out of it, Not is just makes it respond to the sway correction quicker.
OK, not sure where to start so here goes. I have an 02' f-250 with the v-10. I just had some minor front end body work done and when I got it back I noticed that it just didn't feel right while driving. When I start it, I notice a small misfire while I stand next to the exhaust outlet. Nothing too bad, still runs great. Shortly thereafter I started noticing a more habitual missing while driving. Roughly between 30-40 mph and around 12-1500 rpm the truck feel like the driveline is about to pickle fork the truck. If I let off the gas or step on it, the vibration goes away. And very intermittent.
It will only do it when the truck is warmed up. If I only drive about a mile, it won't do it, yet if I turn around and head back, there it is! Now the weird part. I for reasons I won't get into, I left my ignition on and drained the battery. I just replaced it and for the last 2 days nothing. Nt even a misfire. Now today here it is again. I have read all over the forums for this exact problem and cannot find my exact problem. I have replaced the plugs with Autolites and cleaned the coils as well as the boots and applied a small amount of dielectric grease to the top of the plug. The boots are cleaned and not a sign of cracking or wear.
I replaced the PCV valve and nothing. All the plugs looked exactly the same. Light chocolate in color. Not one looked different than the other. I took them out again last week to verify the plugs weren't bad and the new ones all looked the same as well. I cleaned the MAF sensor also. Just cannot figure out what could be doing this all of the sudden. I don't see where anything wasn't plugged back together when it was being worked on and why would a new battery make it go away for a short time? Oh, and lastly, I have a superchips programmer that came with the truck and there are no codes showing and my check engine light has never came on yet.
I have a 2000 f250 7.3 powerstroke. I bought the truck with 218000 miles on it, I have only put 1000 on it. I have had some issues with. The cps went out of it, and it wouldn't start until u replaced it. I have a Ts chip on it and cold air intake. It will not start after a cold night, it starts fine if I plug it in. It also lopes, or misses no matter the temperature outside. Also, it will blow a steady flame when you get on it. Finally, it also gets hot, smoke will come from the turbo after driving it for a while, no matter how you drive it.
View 2 RepliesI was driving my 99 f250 superduty and out of no where it sounded like i had blown a tire started to shake for at least 3 or 4 seconds pulled to the side of the road got out and check tires were good, got back on the road with no more problem.
View 1 Replies1999 F-250 7.3 Ext Cab 4X4... I just got this truck and it started having the 4x4 light flashing or flickering while driving and sitting?
View 3 Replies