Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 Versus F150?
Oct 7, 2015
I'm trying to decide if I need a f250 diesel or to just get another f150. I will be pulling a car trailer a couple times a year with a 78 ford f150 with a 460 in it and the rest of the time it will just be a daily driver. The problem I'm having is that the truck weights I'm guessing some where in the 5500 to 6000 lb range not really sure. I live out in Colorado so I will have to drive through the mountains pulling the truck to different mud races and don't want to have to over work the f150.
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So, currently I have a 2006 6.0 that's been bulletproofed with a 4.5" lift, 35" tires, and a few other things. I've debated going to an Ecoboost F-150, but I really don't want to give up the payload and towing capacity of the F-250.
The big gripe I have about my F-250 is dealing with diesel issues in the winter and the stiff ride and wouldn't mind a little quieter engine. Besides that I love the big truck. My question is if the 6.4 or 6.7 trucks are better about not gelling and not starting in the winter compared to the 6.0? I've read that the ride quality on the 6.4 and the 6.7 is much better than the 6.0 truck.
I've actually debated just getting a dually F-350 and getting another car to drive when I don't need the truck. I'd never have to worry about too heavy or big of a load and then wouldn't have to worry about driving a big truck into tight places either.
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My wife and I recently retired. We are going to buy a used F250 PowerStroke and a tag-a-long camper that weights around 5000lbs. I have heard to stay away from the 6.0 diesel. Looking for info as to the good and bad points on the 6.0. and 7.3.
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I know on certain years the F250 and F350 really weren't any different. Same axles etc. I guess the F350's got an extra overload spring?
I am more curious than anything what separated an F250 from F350 in this year range.
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Do f150 bumper is the same as my 03 F250?
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So I have a 2005 f250 Super Duty 6.0 diesel it is the xlt with leather. So I don't much care for the steering wheels on this truck so i purchase a 05 f150 steering wheel. The splines and everything match up but the plug for the cruise control does not, need a wiring diagram or have done the swap and can tell me what wires connect where.
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the options i am looking at are either a 2008-10 Diesel 250 or 2011' Diesel 250. It will be a weekend only truck and only towing light loads every once in a while.
My question is which motor is better? the 6.4 or 6.7?
I don't have a clue which is better, but all of my friends debated about this at my house this weekend for a few hours, so i am just looking for some info i guess.
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I currently own another brand of a one ton, SRW, diesel pick up. Use the truck to tow a 35' 5th wheel. I'm considering a new truck this spring, & it WILL be a brand change. I was looking at the tow ratings in the March towing guide in Trailer Life mag. & the 5th wheel ratings for a F- 250, & F-350 Super cab, SRW, long box Diesel are the same, 15,900lbs, with a 3:31, or a 3:55 rear. So the question is what is the difference between the 250, & 350?
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What are the main differences between the F-350 and the F-450?
I see now that you can get the wide track front axle on the F-350 as well.
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Using a gasket on the rear differential? How did you like it?
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Looking for pictures of the differences between the track bar brackets from 05-07 vs 08-10?
I'm finding lots of conflicting info online, some saying 05-16 are the same, 05-10 are the same 05-07 are the same, ect.....
So what is the year breaks and difference between them all?
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I don't do much city driving with my rig. And when I do, I head straight to the back of any parking lots I encounter. But I decided to take the ol' girl to a big empty church lot today to get a feel for its turning radius.
I found that it makes a tighter left turn vs. a right turn. And the difference is 6-8 feet. I repeated this many times. Steering wheel was fully locked in both directions.
Is this normal? Others experienced this? It drives straight and true and the alignment was given a clean bill of health not too long ago. Weird.
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Just purchased a 2001 Ford F150 super crew lariat v8 4.6/5.4 2v OAD at 156k miles, iv had no problems with it until I drove over the pass and after 2hours of driving my truck started to jerk when I accelerate between about 40-60mph. I don't experience any other problems over 60 it runs smoothly and in town under 40 it also runs smoothly, no check engine light. The next day is still continues to make a jerking motion, which feels like from the rear....
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My truck is a 99 Superduty, low miles and no rust, Id like to find a tailgate for it. There's a guy on CL selling one from a 2001 F150' claims it'll fit. I'd like to know.
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Is there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
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So I just bought a 2016 F-250 (6.2L Gas) and the dealer says the trucks don't have gas caps anymore. Built in vapor lock blah blah blah... I have seen this on some cars, but it looked different. Mine looks like it should have a cap screwed on.
I have 200 miles in and "Check Fuel Cap" keeps popping up on the dash. I'm going to call the dealer when they open today but was wondering if anyone has bought a 2016 without a gas cap.
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I'm working on my brothers 99 f250 super duty 2wd. The truck pulls to the right. Here's the list of things I've changed and checked
1. Gear box
2. Tie rods
3. Ball joints (aligned)
4. New bearings and seals
5. Brake rotors and calipers. Front and rear.
6. Rotated tires front to back
7. Rotated tires in cris cross pattern
8. 4 new tires (factory size tires)
9. Rebalanced tires
10. Aligned for a third time.
And the truck still pulls right. What is causing this!
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I have a 2003 f-250 s/d 7.3 ltr. 4x4, it is lifted 4" with 20 " pro comp tires and an auto tranny. I am getting between 10 and 11 mpg. whether pulling my 26 ft. trailer or just driving around town. I was told that is not good mpg. What I can do to improve the fuel economy or is 10 mpg normal.
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Just wanting to know what might be wrong truck will not go into 4x4. All fuses in panel looked good. Light on dash is not coming on was working last weekend just fine. Have the hubs in lock position not auto.
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I've had my 99 F250 for about 2 weeks and my SES light came on last week. I took it into AutoZone and they read the code. DPFE sensor EGR etc. The kid behind the counter mentioned something about removing those and saving some money. We don't have any emissions testing. I don't want to take any short cuts really, but if its unnecessary to have than why not delete it. I have the 5.4 and it has 189,000 miles and we did buy the truck to haul the camper so that plays into the scenario also.
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Okay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?
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