I have a ford f250 super duty and it wont start I have checked obvious reasons and I think it might be a crank shaft sensor. Just curious, is there two of them one for right bank and left bank or just one on drivers side?
View 2 RepliesI got an f-350 drw it is sluggish on take off feels like a miss. Higher speeds when you step on it. It seems o.k I have been told it could be a crank shaft positioning sensor any in put on this. I have changed the fuel filters, cleaned the e.g.r. valve and yes it was pretty clogged,air filter seems to be good. And 1 last thing for now where would c.s.p.s. be located...
View 4 RepliesYou know the "mechanic's fiances truck" problem. I recently replaced the cam sensor in my 05' F250 Gas. The check engine light had been on for a while before that and my truck rode great, however I now want to sell it and I can't do that with a check engine light on. It's got about 85k miles on it.
After replacing the sensor, the light went off for about 20 miles, but it is now back on and my truck seems to miss every once in a while on acceleration or cruising. Some days it's worse than others. The check engine light still says cam sensor, but the sensor is brand new.
My fiance is a mechanic, so I don't know all the details about code numbers and such. However, I want to sell this truck pretty soon, and I would like it to run correctly. His dad (another mechanic) seems to think it could be a coil and wants to wait for that light to come on, but I would rather fix the problem and sell the truck!
Last night it was surging at idle and then just died. It had a code on it about the crank sensor not communicating... no codes this morning and it wont start.
I just bought the damn thing 3 weeks ago and its already not running. Where do I start to diagnose this damn thing..........
Let me start out by saying that I have exhausted every option that I have read on every thread that I could find on the internet regarding my son's 2002 7.3L not starting. What I have is no 12v power to the starter solenoid at the starter when I crank the key. What we have done so far, had the starter and both batteries tested, all good. Swapped out the starter motor fuse and the starter relay. Tried a new ignition switch and a new trans position sensor. Found major corrosion in the fusible link junction box on the drivers inner fender so we cut out the fusible links and put in a temporary jumper wire, still no crank. I have power to the dash, power on the power cable at the starter. I can jump the terminals on the starter and the starter engages. I found the shifter linkage bolts loose under the dash and tightened them up also. We have been struggling with this for 3 days, out in the lovely Michigan weather, since it couldn't have died in his parking spot in our heated shop, and I am completely frustrated. Are we overlooking something glaringly obvious?
View 11 RepliesOn occasion, the last 2 weeks, my truck doesn't like to start, sometimes it will start to crank for one second and then quit. i've tried moving my gear shift through the drive selection range (park, neutral, reverse and drive). i just replaced the starter relay on the fender well because i can always start the truck by jumping across the terminals... no joy. So now ( i think) my issue is between the key switch and the starter relay. i replaced the neutral safety switch about 18 months ago.
99 F250 V10 short bed, 123,000 miles ....
I have been trouble shooting a no crank no start issue for a couple years now. Been back to the dealer several times to no avail. Very long story, with all due respect, don't suggest that I go back to the dealer on this. Not happening. Every once in a while the truck would strand me with no crank no start. It would read trailer brake module fault. Sometimes the security light would flash and the alarm would sound. Recently, I have had it on IDS and noticed that while it was doing this, IDS had no communication to the ECU.
I checked IDS with my other truck and it had good communication with that ECU so I know the computer/IDS works. Pulled battery cables and checked all the fuses... checked ok. Went back in the truck tried it, still no crank. Left key on, popped hood to listen for fuel pump... nothing. Went to pop cover off the fuse block and as soon as I touched it the fuel pump started whining. Went back in the truck and it started. Plugged IDS back in and had good communication and read ECU. I googled around for a part number but came up empty.
2002 F250 V10....
Ambient temp is 4-9 degrees
Step-son borrowed truck. I started it at 9 in the morn and moved it to a different parking spot on street. No problem starting.
Step-son came at 11 and took truck. It started no problem.
He drove it to work. At 5 p.m. would crank, but not start. A jump got it running.
On charger all night. Would not crank this morn. Would not crank even when jumped.
Are we looking at a bad battery or something else?
I have a 2004 Ford F-250 with the 6.0 egr has been deleted and so on. Truck has been very trustworthy until now... It all started last week. I would get in and it would fire right up, drive 15 miles to work all is still good. Time to go home try to start and it would act like the batteries were weak with a weak crank until it finally takes off and starts. This intermittent situation has been happening but I just assumed that the batteries were going bad. I drove to work this morning truck fired right up and now that it is time to go home the truck only has a weak crank and wont fire up. I tested the batteries and they were low on cranking amps.
Replaced them with two new batteries. The issue still exists and didn't change. After reading through threads I found that it could be the FICM I checked it out as was shown through the other threads. With the key on only it was reading 51 vdc with someone trying to start the truck it was reading 48-50 vdc... Yes the truck does have fuel in it and yes the oil is good to. It seems that there is something electrical going on for sure due to the way it has been an intermittent problem for a week or so. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade but can fix anything if I know where to start.
My 92 f250 5.8l 5 speed, out of no where when I try to start it I get absolutely nothing, when I put the key in the on position and short the solenoid it starts up that's how I've been starting it? When I try to start it regularly it's almost as if trying to start it without pressing the clutch it literally does nothing.
View 1 RepliesI have 1999 f250 powerstroke, batteries are fully charged but when you put key in ignition and turn you get nothing. No dash lights, no crank, nothing. I cleaned the battery terminals on both batteries, checked all the fuses under the dash and the hood.
View 9 RepliesThe factory remote start is not working on my 2009 F 250. The red light is lit when I push the button, the doors lock and you can hear something engage in the engine but it does not crank it. If I keep holding the button the alarm starts to go off. When I walk up to truck the radio is on and I need to hit the remote start button to shut everything down before manually staring.
View 4 RepliesI recently caught up on some maintenance with my truck, changed the turbo pedestal seals, replaced both batteries, brakes, e-brake cable etc and installed new 10k hid headlights. its a single cab 250 with a 7.3 and zf6 4x4 with 133k. a couple days ago I turned on the headlights and the truck died, restarted no problem and would die the next 5 times I tried to turn them on, then it worked fine. yesterday I got in my truck to leave for work and got no wait to start light, no glow plug chatter, no fuel pump running. turns over just fine but no fire.
I got a ride to work and tried it when I got home, fired right up. I pulled the pCM, checked it out, no weird smells and my TS chip wasn't corroded or anything like that, worked fine. drove to 711 to get a 6 pack and it did the headlight thing again. I removed the HIDs because this all started after I installed them and reinstalled my silvanias and it didn't die when I turned them on. this morning went to leave for work, same no start condition. I disconnected both batteries for 30 seconds to reset anything and same problem. I was about ready to light it on fire this morning.
2001 F250 5.4 ... I'm losing my mind chasing a Gremlin. I've been having mostly intermittent starting issues with my truck. I've had the truck for a little over a year, after someone totaled my previous one.
It occasionally wouldn't start on the first attempt, but it got really bad in the last couple weeks.
I first thought it was a faulty inertia switch or wiring in that vicinity, as at one point after manually tripping and resetting the cutoff switch it would start, UNTIL I put the trim panel back. At this point I think that may have been a coincidence.
I eventually probed the switch and it tests as it should electrically.
I put in a new fuel filter and things were fine for several days, but it acted up again. That time was last Saturday. Got it to start and all was good until tonight. Now it won't go, and I've tried so many times that I can see the battery power is dropping.
Last Saturday I pulled the relays from behind the radio and cleaned 'em up real nice. Also, just to check another variable I swapped the two that matched.
I'm about ready to change the fuel pump, but I've heard so many people say they did that but the problem was something else. Not only will it costs hundreds of dollars, its cold out and we'll have to drop the tank in the driveway.
In addition to the relay, inertia switch and fuse, I have found some mention of faulty fuel pressure regulators causing issues. I'll pry the vacuum line off in the morning to see if I can detect fuel residue on the vacuum side. (There is some noticeable corrosion on the fuel rail in that area).
I REALLY want to make sure I rule everything else out before spending hours under the truck in freezing weather dropping the tank and changing the sending unit out.
On key-on there is a noise from the gas tank, but someone else listening described it as a click but no whirring.
I do hear the relay clicking behind the radio. (Also, I pulled them again tonight and put a meter to them. With 12V on the primary side, they click and the other side shows continuity on diode check, and about .2 Ohm on resistance mode.)
I went through a lot of trouble to get my spare out looking for the fuel control module before finding out my truck is about 3 years too old to have one too. What else to check?
Been driving my 2001 f250 7.3 4x4 with no problems then started noticing it lacking power so I changed fuel filter and air filter. After a week goes by I was at work and I was leaving to come home so I started truck to let warm up and it cranked longer than normal but started. Let run about 10 minutes idle nicely when I punched it it bogged down and had no power never died. I idled over into parking lot and power came so I took off again loss all power again, still never died. Got it right back to my work sat there a bit and tried again this time I took it easy and was able to get my truck home 30 so miles.
When I got home I ran codes p1211 came up for the icp sensor I changed it did not change anything still had same problem. This was a Saturday afternoon to evening issue. So sunday I played around with it just checking out info online and test driving it seem to run ok but still lacking power. Let it sit till Monday I went out to start it had to cycle key 3 time before it started idle nicely then died would not restart changed ipr valve nothing changed cam sensor nothing changed some how 10 quarts low in oil just changed dec. 30th don't know ? Now will start if I pump throttle and has all its power back?
I have a 1999 F-250 super duty 7.3 4x4 and the rear drivers side axle seal is leaking. My question is how do I remove the axle shaft? my last truck a f150 had c clips in the diff that released the axle shaft but I did not see those on this truck. How to remove the axle shaft?
View 8 RepliesCheck out the pics. 99 f250 4x4. I have a leak in my front axle shaft. It looks like it is coming out of the dust cap on the end of the front shaft. I am pretty sure it is differential fluid from the smell. Is there a seal before the dust cap? Is the shaft hollow with fluid in it? I thought it was just in the differential and if it leaks it is at the seals where the axle goes into the differential not at the otter end.
View 14 RepliesMy elderly neighbor has asked me to re-attach his drive shaft on his F250.
Said his wife was driving and it broke the u joint or something, and he has gotten it repaired and wondered if I could put it back on. Has been sitting for a bit from what he said.
Just need to know, how I should clean up and or grease? the end with the boot on it. before I put it together. The boot looks to be zap strapped, is that standard?
My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2014 4WD Super Duty. It has a squeak that is coming from the drive shaft area. I had someone listen to it as I drove slowly next to them. It is a repetitive: squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak. Not loud. The frequency increases as speed increases. I could believe it may be a U joint based on the frequency, but seems hard to believe with a new truck. I heard this sound when I first got it, but the sound was so slight that I thought it was just some sound associated with a newer engine. But now it is becoming a bit louder.
View 4 RepliesI'm wanting to grease the center spline on my drive shaft. I got the 4 bolts off with a 12mm 16 point boxed in wrench but can't get the drive shaft loose from the rea rend. I don't blindly want to go beating it out of the yoke with a hammer to try to knock it loose (but I will if I have to). What am I missing to get this shaft out?
View 3 Replies