Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 V10 Starting Sporadically
Nov 16, 2015
I am looking at purchasing a 1999 f250 Crew Cab Long bed with the V10. It has 120,000 miles on it and has been very well taken care of and maintained. The current owner says that over the last couple of weeks it has started to start sporadically. The first time it did it was after a 30 minute drive. Parked the truck outside his garage and a hour later when he went to pull it in the garage, it wouldn't start. He called a mechanic friend that told him to trip the inertia switch.
Pressed the switch, it clicked, and then the truck fired right up. Since then it has done it twice more but now instead of tripping the inertia switch he turns the key on and off 10 times and then it starts right up. What this would be? I would normally think fuel pump since cycling the key on and off would be building pressure in the system if the pump was just starting to die but the inertia switch being tripped has me confused.
The owner thinks or was told that quickly turning the key off and on is resetting the computer and after turning the key 8 times the locks lock and unlock and the lights flash once. Is this what it is doing? I thought turning the key on and off in multiple succession let you manually read the codes...
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My 2003 F-250 (gas V8) will always start right up when it is cold. However, once it has warmed up, it often will not start. Cranks fine, but not even wanting to start (like someone pulled all the plug wires) and has left me stranded until I wait for 3+ hours for it to cool back down. Doesn't trip the check engine light, but seems to be due to the engine being hot. What this could be?
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My 1999 F-250 wont start unless I use a squirt of fluid but once started it will run fine could this be my cam sensor or do I have an injector problem.
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1999 F250 SD V10 I recently replaced the in-tank fuel pump and filter. I operated the truck briefly after and everything was normal. I parked it with about 1/4 tank of new fuel and put it on a battery tender. It was parked in a garage on level ground in temperate weather(Southern Calif.). Two months later I tried to start it and it acted like it did when the fuel pump was bad. Cranked fine but no hint of starting. Could it be the fuel lines have become full of air and need purging through Schrader valve ? I haven't begun to troubleshoot but what to check other than pushing the fuel relay reset button.
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My diesel truck is stuck at work. It cranks but it's not starting up. When I turn the key, the glow plug light takes a lot longer than usual to turn off. When I try to start the truck, it cranks fine and I get a lot of white smoke coming out the exhaust pipe. I've had this truck less than a year and I know very little about Diesel engines. I at least need to get it running long enough to get home. The parking lot at work is really busy pretty much 24/7 and towing it out of there would get pretty dicey.
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I have a new to me 2000 F250 7.3 diesel with automatic. Truck has 185K miles and tranny is starting to slip occasionally. Do these trucks come with a OEM tranny cooler or do I need to add or upgrade the OEM one. Someone also told that there is something called "bulletproofing" the tranny on these trucks. BTW, what would be a reasonable cost to have a two wheel drive auto tranny done on my truck?
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I have a 2000 F250 7.3 manual tranny that was put away for winter storage and now will not start. Need it to get my weekend work done now that the snow is finally gone. Symptoms:
- not cranking
- no dash lights (no oil light, battery light, etc.)
- radio works
- head lights work
- key buzzer works
- can hear clicking when turn key (assume solenoid OK)
Put in two new batteries, fully charger and terminals are clean. Where should I start looking?
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Just started having this issues on my 2012 F250 6.7 with 71K. Turn the key and no problems. Once I start my truck service advance track pops up, along with the e-brake light and some other lights before all shutting off. I then loose all functions in my instrument cluster, window controls, AC/heat controls. The truck still runs and drives with no problems I just have no dash functions. My blinkers and headlights still work (with no cluster indicating). Fog lights do not work. Turn the truck on and off and the problem repeats itself.
I did get stuck in a massive rain storm with some big puddles last night. Went to dinner and started having the problems on the way home. The functions were temperamental last night but seem to be worse today.
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Need to diagnose my truck issues. On my 2002 F250 V10, when I try to start it, the engine just cranks and cranks and cranks with no fire or even hint if starting. I am not sure if it has no spark or isn't getting any fuel. I just replaced all ten spark plugs and coils less than 500 miles ago. I want to perform the fix myself, but I need to get the problem diagnose the issue first.
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I have for the 4th time in a little over a year developed another issue with a rear caliper hanging up last year i ended up replacing both rear calipers with reman. from NAPA. 3 months ago i had to replace the right rear again. Now currently i am having the left rear starting to hang up again. I've done a fluid flush and everything. I'm kind of at a loss. I don't normally have this much trouble with brakes. Some of the symptoms that go along with this are a spongy pedal and inconsistent brake feel just like when you have air in a line.
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I have a 2003, F250 SD, 5.0 with a weird problem no one can figure out. Now it doesn't matter what time of the year it is but after the truck sits a few days when I go to start it up it run roughs. Sometimes for a few seconds sometimes a few minutes then it "straightens" itself out. Recently it took almost a day to fix itself. No engine codes, no other symptoms.
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I am experiencing what feels like a "bump in the rear" when initially starting from a dead stop. It feels like a car behind me tapped the bumper or that the truck "hunkers down" first, then moves. Tranny seems fine also. Once moving, there is no problem whatsoever. There atre no noises, leaks, or other symptoms. Also, when coming to a stop, it feels the same way just before the truck completely stops. If I drift forward a little, then apply the accelerator, it does not "slip" or hunker down.
Took it to the dealer and they claim that they can't find anything wrong and may just be the suspension releasing? The truck does this whether loaded or not?
2001 F250 CC Lariat SB 7.3
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I work for the transportation department at a school and we have a bunch of 6.0 f350/450 busses and this bus I am working on has a no crank condition. Bus in question is a 2006 F450 6.0.
Currently if you turn the key to start the engine the solenoid just clicks but the engine wont crank. The person working on it before me assumed that the batteries and or starter were bad so they were replaced(0 miles on them right now) but the problem still persists.
First thing I did when I started working on this bus was jumping the starter relay and the starter engages and starts the engine perfectly. That being said I know the starter wiring is fine.
Secondly I looked through the wiring diagrams and saw that the PCM grounds the 85 terminal on the starter relay so I tried grounding the 85 and I was able to crank the engine with the key so that was telling me that the actual starter relay is fine. Next I went and swapped the PCM with another 2006 f450 thinking maybe the grounding switch in the PCM was bad and I have the same no crank condition. The PCM from the bus in question was swapped to the doner bus and it cranked perfectly(PCM in question is fine).
Next thing I did was look up all of the ground locations for the PCM or anything to do with the starter and they were all cleaned and still have the same no crank.
Looking around on the internet I see that the viscous fan can cause a problem if it shorts out so I unplugged that and no change in the no crank. I also saw that the trans range sensor could cause a no crank condition but I am getting back up lights/beeper and the bus "wants" to crank so I am thinking that the TRS is not the problem.
Lastly I tried hooking my Modis scanner up to this bus and was NOT able to communicate with either of the PCM's I tried. Not sure if this is related to my no crank condition. I checked all of the wiring that I could but could not find any chafing or breaks in any of the OBDII wiring. My planned next step is to replace the TRS...
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I was wondering if there is a aftermarket product to give my truck a more Rumble when starting and idling.
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Yesterday I was on a pretty long trip and stopped off the interstate to grab some food. My truck is really loud so I always shut my engine off at the drive-thru. When I went to crack it back up everything lit up but when I turned the key nothing happened. I had the truck towed home and I put a new starter on it. Still nothing.....
Well after further investigating where the positive wire that comes from the starter to the battery was broken at the battery post. Don't know how the heck that happened but I fixed it back to factory condition but still nothing. I'm at a complete loss. I checked all fuses and everything looks good.
When I turn the key everything lights up, then turn to crank it and nothing but a slight sound coming from those square silver things in the fuse panel under the steering wheel.
2007 f250 PSD with to many extras to list
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I have an 08 F-250 CC SB 4x4 Diesel truck that has since new clunked when starting out from a stop and/or coming to a stop. I have 16k on it now and am getting really tired of dealing with it... The clunk starting is when I let off the brake and just apply the throttle. It feels like something slips and then clunk.
The clunk when stopping is the same as starting, except when coming to a stop.This is unloaded or when loaded w/ cargo and/or trailers. I know I can go to the dealer, but I don't want to un-spartan my truck for this...
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The headliner by the front windshield is starting to come off the foam headliner. It's a small portion now but can get worse over time. It's not enough to warrant replacing the whole headliner, so I was wondering what can be a temp solution for now. Hot glue, thumb tacks, tape? I only noticed it because I had the windows down and the wind must have caught the fabric and made it flap around.
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My 02 ford V10 is hard starting. If I start it every day, it will start and run well. If I let it sit longer than one day I need to spray some starting fluid to get it to run. I turn the key on and let it pump up before I try to start it. After it starts with starting fluid, and runs for a minute or so it will start up with no problem.
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Sometimes it'll start up just fine, no long crank or anything and other times she'll sit there and crank forever and not start. When it does start, it'll drive just fine, then when I turn it off and come back not even 10 minutes later it'll not start again. Does it cold and hot.
2004 F350, 6 speed manual trans
Rudy heads, ARP studs, banks air intake, banks external oil cooler, Oil filter relocation kit, EGR delete, sinister coolant filter, is mostly what I have done to it. But all those I've had on there for a year + so no recent major changes made. Had a gentleman troubleshoot saying my ficm is bad but I measured the voltage at the pins (4 pin ficm) with the truck in run and while cranking and the voltage is 47.5-48 so that rules out the ficm being bad. It's hard for me to do the troubleshooting because of the intermediate starting.
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I have begun to notice a vibration when I am in first gear starting out with a bit of a load. The vibration goes away as I gain speed and the load reduces. None at any of the higher gears. If I take off real easy and allow the truck to gain speed without pushing it, the vibration does not exist. The truck is the one outlined in my signature. It is equipped with a 3 speed auto with overdrive. I am thinking this could be a U-Joint that might be starting to go out.
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It's a 2001 F-350 Crew cab short bed. Got it from the second owner which had a large file from the original owner on documentation and maintenance records. Truck has 280k, tranny about 80k. Question I have is, I kinda thought it would "feel" more powerful then it does. Temp got to about 35f last night after work and it cranked for about 15-20 sec before it started (yes I let the "Wait to start" light go out).
Then pulling out of work it would hardly get out of its own way. Does this sound normal? When it is warmed up it goes ok, but still I figured when the turbo winds up it would feel a bit "peppier". I get its a diesel and not a hot rod but I was expecting a bit more pep.
MODS on the truck that I can tell: AFE cold intake, 5"? exhaust turbo back, about 4" lift. Stock PCM. In cab controlled rear air bags, nice deck with back up camera.
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