Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 V10 - Over Drive Not Working?
Jul 10, 2013
1999, F250, SD, v10, Auto, 4x4.
My light on the overdrive is not coming on and the overdrive does not seem to be working. I had a new transmission installed a few weeks back. Wasn't working prior to this.
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Love my 03 lariat Super Duty, King Ranch. Just found out 4 wheel drive is not working. Checked fuses, next going to look at the vacuum system, make sure its working. New to the Diesels but going to work at it and learn at the same time. 2003 F-250 4x4 ....
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I recently picked up a '99 F250 Super Duty with the 6.8L V10 for a song.
The 4 wheel drive hubs are not working with the vacuum. If I use the manual lock on the hubs all is well. I ordered the Innova 31703 CarScan OBD2 + OBD1/ABS/SRS Scan Tool. It says it does Trans codes. I am hoping it will cover the 4 wheel drive too.
Maybe related, the heat is always on. Meaning I feel heat at my feet when the temp dial is cold and fan is off. I can't find the heater control valve to check the vacuum line.
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So one day my 4 wheel drive just stopped working, when I put in 4hi nothing same with low, the light on the dash doesn't even pop up and it doesn't engage. I've done about everything I could think of doing besides replacing the motor for it and the wiring, I hate getting stuck...
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Checked the EOF vacuum lines and pump but still have a problem. The EOF works and locks the hubs when I switch to 4x4 high, Easy to feel when you turn the wheels but it will not go into low. The light on the dash does not light up the word "low".
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I recently purchased a 00 F250 psd 4x4. Other than doing all of the fixes it needs to make it ride better I have been questioning the trucks "get up and go" and the EXTREMELY sensitive skinny pedal. Truck seems to pull very hard and puts out some black smoke under hard throttle but nothing like the really tuned trucks I have seen. But the skinny is so sensitive its hard to drive under 40mph in 3rd and once it gets up to 55 or so its real sharp getting on and off the throttle. Trans shifts great, TC locks and unlocks, truck runs awesome IMO but just a bit harsh. Is there a way to find out if it was tuned prior to me buying it other than inspecting for a chip, or is this the way they are and I just have to get used to it more...?
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My elderly neighbor has asked me to re-attach his drive shaft on his F250.
Said his wife was driving and it broke the u joint or something, and he has gotten it repaired and wondered if I could put it back on. Has been sitting for a bit from what he said.
Just need to know, how I should clean up and or grease? the end with the boot on it. before I put it together. The boot looks to be zap strapped, is that standard?
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I have a 93 f250 4x4 with a 5.8 liter with 69 thousand miles.. the problem I'm having Is if I put It in drive it won't shift out of first but if I manually shift it from 1st to 2nd to drive it works but shifts very hard. Sometimes it will shift in drive but It shifts really hard. I don't know what It could be. We just put the transmisson back into the truck due to having to change a broken flywheel. It just don't Seem like it has any power...
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I have a 2006 F250 Super Duty w/ turbo Diesel. Took to dealership for "hopping" feeling when turning sharp. Was told that 4 wheel drive solenoid was bad. Where this solenoid is located? I know I can fix but want to know where it is located.
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Having trouble with a shutter upon take off in there drive train. It only happens when I am going straight. It does not do it when I am turning or anything. I just bought the truck used sat. It has around 18000 miles on it. I haven't had a chance to put a load on it yet to see if it does it then.
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I have a 2014 4WD Super Duty. It has a squeak that is coming from the drive shaft area. I had someone listen to it as I drove slowly next to them. It is a repetitive: squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak. Not loud. The frequency increases as speed increases. I could believe it may be a U joint based on the frequency, but seems hard to believe with a new truck. I heard this sound when I first got it, but the sound was so slight that I thought it was just some sound associated with a newer engine. But now it is becoming a bit louder.
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I purchased the truck used last summer and this is the second time I've put it in 4wd. The first time was over the summer, and I had a hard time getting it into 4wd, and it made a "clunk" sound initially but drove fine, then went back into 2wd just fine and had driven fine ever since. Today I put it into 4wd, no clunk or any other noises, very smooth, but it drove very rough, almost as if the wheels were out of sync or something. It seemed almost like the wheels were breaking on and off on their own, very weird. When I put it back into 2wd, it did that for a few seconds until it went away. I only drove it in 4wd in my parking garage as I didn't want to risk any more damage to it on the road.
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I have a 2006 f250 superduty crew cab longbed with the v10 gas motor. it has 201000 miles on it and towed great up until last month. I was towing a 5000lb trailer down the interstate at around 68mph,suddenly it was like the drive train disengaged and the motor had nothing left, check engine light on but no overheat condition or lack of oil pressure. we put a new fuel filter and pump on and maf, took trailer out again and same problem, pulled to the side and turned off, immediately restarted and ran fine. It has a cat not cleaning code in it now!
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I have a 1999 f250 7.3 ... l extended cab 4x4 super duty ... ABS light on, over drive light flashing and speedometer has stopped working .. I have replaced abs senor on the rear of transmission and on the rear end.both new and just replaced abs module just the computer not the pump that was used . And abs light, overdrive light are still on and the speedometer is still not working ..
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2002 F250 SD 4x4 crew cab, v10. 4x4 not working. Replaced switch on dash, not the problem. Some of told me it was the vacuum control module. Not sure where to start.
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2000 f250 7.3. Today I tried using the 4x4 and no light or anything. Here is what i have tried so far. Swapped the relays and also swapped them with the towing relays with no change. Not getting any voltage to the t-case shift motor at the selector switch testing between pins 2 and 3 there is 4.3 volts with switch in 2wd 2.4 volts at 4 high and 1.09 volts at 4 low. Where to go from here? it worked fine 3 days ago.
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I'm wanting to grease the center spline on my drive shaft. I got the 4 bolts off with a 12mm 16 point boxed in wrench but can't get the drive shaft loose from the rea rend. I don't blindly want to go beating it out of the yoke with a hammer to try to knock it loose (but I will if I have to). What am I missing to get this shaft out?
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My 2012 F250 6.2L (Gas) engine developed a noticeable drone/vibration when in drive between 1600 - 1800rpm. RPMs above and below that range is fine. But when accelerating, as soon as the RPMs reach 1600, you can feel a slight vibration through the gas pedal and a noticeable sharp draon/moan up till about 1800 or 1900 rpm, then its normal.
I took it to my ford dealer and took the service manager out for a test drive. He said that there is a drone and slight vibration withing that RPM range. He thought that the engine mounts may be loose. But aside all that, he felt something was off and wrote up the service order.
When to pick up the truck and now the service manager changes his tune and said that the drone is normal and happens on all 6.2L super duties.
To be honest, I have the feeling he is pulling my chain.
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I purchased a 2000 F250 7.3 4x4 (auto transmission) about 8 months ago. I've noticed recently that when I accelerate there is a slight hesitation like there is slack in the drive line. This does not happen when the truck is moving and I accelerate. There is not audible clunk and the hesitation is not in the motor.
I checked the u-joints and they all feel tight. There is a little slack in transfer case that allows me to turn the drive line slightly back and forth. Is this normal? Should I be planning on a transmission or transfer case rebuild soon?
Update: I was researching the leaf spring isolator pads (mine are warn out or missing) and it sounds like these can cause something similar to what I am experiencing. I am planning on pulling a 28' travel trailer from Colorado to Wisconsin next month and would like to avoid any issues if possible...... Obviously, I know ....
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I have a 2008 for 250 6.4 powerstroke. Issue I am having is occasionally when I shift from drive to reserve it will slam when I shift to reverse. It is an intermittent issue. What causes this and what to do?
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I have a 2008 Ford F250 with 6.4. Having alot of problems with the 4X4. Went to put the truck in 4 wheel drive one day and noticed the light on the dash never came on to engage 4X4. Of course we had a big snow storm coming and I didn't have 4 wheel drive. I drove the truck across town and decided to just try 4x4 again and it worked that time. I got the light on the dash and could hear the transfer case shift motor engage. Came out a little later and tried it and it wasn't working again. Took truck to shop where they replaced transfer case shift motor with a remaned motor from oriellys.
4x4 worked for a few weeks then just started doing the same thing again. We thought maybe that motor had problems also so had it replaced too. Truck is still doing the same stuff. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. Figured out that if its not working and I leave it in 4x4 and unhook power to shift motor then plug it back in it will engage 4x4. I've seen some post on here but sounds like everyone i've seen their motor just stops and doesn't work at all.
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