I have owned a 2003 v10 triton f-250 now for 8 years and when I first got the rig I was getting 11.5 mpg mixed driving. As the years and miles went on the mileage got worse and worse and now I'm lucky to get 4.5 mpg.
View 14 RepliesMy 2014 f250 4x4 crew cab with 6.2l gasser only gets about 7.5-8 mpg at 65 mph while pulling my 27' bumper pull travel trailer. I know that thing is basically a wall trapping the air but is there anything I can do to gain a couple mpg more? I can average about 15 mpg at 65 mph without the trailer on the highway.
View 14 Replies2012 F-250 super cab 4x4, 6.7 and just over 100k on the odometer. He pulls a 20' landscaping trailer with about 3000lbs of gear on a daily basis. He drives the same rounds weekly and the truck is dealer serviced. His trips to the pump used to be every 7 days and are now occurring every 3-4 days. He's down to 10.4 mpg. I usually can pull better mileage with the 6.2 pulling said trailer.
View 10 RepliesI've got a 08 f250 ext cab long box with the 5.4 gas. I know I know 3/4 ton gas. Trucks got NO power at all loaded and unloaded and really bad fuel mileage. Driving like a grandpa in town I'm getting 7mpg on the hwy unloaded I get 9 or 10mpg loaded on the hwy the trucks working way harder than it should and getting 6mpg.... I'm wanting to swap the 5 4 for a 6.0. Reason I saw 6.0 is my buddy's done egr delete. Bulletproof oil cooler head studs and a edge with attitude chip and has great power and reasonable fuel mileage. How hard is it going to be swapping the motors.
View 10 RepliesI know there are tons of threads on this and ive spent hours reading through them. but there are a few differences to mine.
2005 F350 6.0l regular cab long box. 4" lift on Duratec 33". Wheels balanced, driveshafts balanced, all u-joints checked and 1 was replaced (made no noticeable difference), all new brakes and rotors recently(due to wear)
When im not towing, vibration is noticeable between 60-65, but its only slight and i can live with it. Its felt in the seat and not the wheel.
There is also a very low grinding/pulsing feeling that happens as i am slowing down from highway speeds starting at around 10 mph until I completely stop. Its not the brakes and feels driveline to me. Can only be felt at these very low speeds while decelerating/coasting. Feel it in the seat and not the wheel. Not the end of the world but i have a feeling its related to my high speed issues. It is not felt on acceleration and I don't feel it when I am moving around parking lots/etc. ONLY when decelerating from highway speeds.
When I am towing the vibration randomly gets really bad right around 65mph the whole truck shakes and its very uncomfortable. It doesn't matter if I am on the gas or not, hill or no hill. If i slow down to 60 it goes away. It is very rhythmic with road speed (3 pulses with a slight pause)
Been doing a lot more towing lately and its bugging me. I keep falling back on tires, but not quite ready to bite the bullet on new tires as the ones on it still have tons of life left.
2002 5.4 super duty. My truck had started to ping, and knock worse over time. I did some research on this site, and I decided to remove my K&N air filter. Replace it with a traditional paper filter. Then I cleaned my mass air flow sensor. The results were great, no more knock and ping.I will check the MPG next to see if I get any improvements.
View 1 RepliesI have a 00 F250 7.3 4x4 and I am looking to get better mileage out of it since it is now a dedicated work truck for towing. The two options I have in mind I think will work, but just wanted some clarification and if one is even possible.
First I will be taking the lift off and dropping back down to 33 inch tires or so. This should give me a little, but if not it should be easier on the truck for towing.
And this truck mostly see's highway miles, so I was thinking about disengaging the 4wd. I heard 4wd trucks get worse mileage, so this is the one I didn't even know if it was possible. not digging in to the computer and injectors quite yet.
I've changed my knock sensor, my o2 sensor, fuel filter, air filter, alternator, and cut out my cat. Still can't figure out why my truck has no power?
View 7 RepliesI have an '05 F350 single rear-axle w/109k miles. I only recently bought the truck for towing, and haven't had much time to play with it.
It seems that I get about 10-11 mpg on average - I was thinking this was a bit low - anything I can check?
I am normally a pretty quick driver, but, have been taking it easy to get a good read on the mileage, so, the right foot has been "very light".
The truck has a "tick", and I intend on following some of the guides for that, but how to improve the mileage
what is the best computer chip for a 2011 F-350 to get better gas mileage?
View 4 RepliesMy friend has a F250. He was getting terrible mileage and the mechanic he took it to replaced the intake gaskets. After that the mileage went to 12 and he was happy. Now its down to 6-8, just highway. It seems to me the throttle response is terrible compared to my dad's 01 V10. And it sounds terrible. Exhaust manifolds aren't leaking that I see.
I've got AE and have hooked it up, but I'm really not very familiar with these trucks. I don't get any codes that would relate to anything. Had one trans sensor code but that was about it. Key on engine running test didn't say anything.
I have a 2010 F250 with a 5.4 gas. I wondered if a CAI would increase power and gas mileage. I have a friend who put one on his mustang and it worked a lot, especially with power.
View 7 RepliesIs there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
View 2 RepliesSo I just bought a 2016 F-250 (6.2L Gas) and the dealer says the trucks don't have gas caps anymore. Built in vapor lock blah blah blah... I have seen this on some cars, but it looked different. Mine looks like it should have a cap screwed on.
I have 200 miles in and "Check Fuel Cap" keeps popping up on the dash. I'm going to call the dealer when they open today but was wondering if anyone has bought a 2016 without a gas cap.
I'm working on my brothers 99 f250 super duty 2wd. The truck pulls to the right. Here's the list of things I've changed and checked
1. Gear box
2. Tie rods
3. Ball joints (aligned)
4. New bearings and seals
5. Brake rotors and calipers. Front and rear.
6. Rotated tires front to back
7. Rotated tires in cris cross pattern
8. 4 new tires (factory size tires)
9. Rebalanced tires
10. Aligned for a third time.
And the truck still pulls right. What is causing this!
I have a 2003 f-250 s/d 7.3 ltr. 4x4, it is lifted 4" with 20 " pro comp tires and an auto tranny. I am getting between 10 and 11 mpg. whether pulling my 26 ft. trailer or just driving around town. I was told that is not good mpg. What I can do to improve the fuel economy or is 10 mpg normal.
View 11 RepliesJust wanting to know what might be wrong truck will not go into 4x4. All fuses in panel looked good. Light on dash is not coming on was working last weekend just fine. Have the hubs in lock position not auto.
View 6 RepliesI've had my 99 F250 for about 2 weeks and my SES light came on last week. I took it into AutoZone and they read the code. DPFE sensor EGR etc. The kid behind the counter mentioned something about removing those and saving some money. We don't have any emissions testing. I don't want to take any short cuts really, but if its unnecessary to have than why not delete it. I have the 5.4 and it has 189,000 miles and we did buy the truck to haul the camper so that plays into the scenario also.
View 9 RepliesOkay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?
What a 1999 f250 super duty triton v10 would have for a front axle and why mine won't lock in 4x4 at the front drivers side hub it have warn hubs and will lock in on passenger side but on divers with ether just grind or not go in at all...
View 10 RepliesMy 1999 f250 v10 automatic shakes really bad only when your doing 70-80 kmh unless you shut off the overdrive or go faster... why?
View 8 Replies