Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 V10 - Leak From The High Pressure Hose On Gearbox?
Mar 4, 2015
My uncles 1999 v10 started to leak from the high-pressure hose on the gearbox. Replaced the hose which lasted for a short time but is now leaking at the same spot. The hose swivels, is this normal, seems like a dumb design for a pressure hose. Also is there a certain trick to doing this hose? He also insists on using PS fluid instead of the ATF it calls for. Could this cause a problem with the seal?
Edit: Also the truck has been lifted on 35s since 16k miles and its now roughly at 170k. He tows with it as it is his work truck. But the truck is well taken care of.
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I'm trying to troubleshoot a leak on my 08' F250 with a 6.4 powerstroke. It's been dripping coolant when cold pretty aggressively. Once the truck heats up, the coolant leak seems to mostly go away.
Here's a picture of the drip, it's marked by a dart, so you can see the location from the top (second pic). The radiator house connection around the engine seems dry.
Pic from Top ....
What's hidden here that could be causing the leak?
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Where this small leak coming from. Under my radiator hose. Took a pic of the leak.
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I recently came a cross a no start issue with my truck. It is 2005 ford f350 6.0 ... Found out I have a leak in the high pressure system. When I was taking out the bolts out from the manifold I stripped out two bolts. I know ford part # w301383 is the ford bolt. But I was thinking why use that same bolt and had have that issue again later.
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I have a 2010 f250 6.4 About two months ago the truck just quite on me. I am a farmer in south jersey and have a decent background in diesel motors. First thing that came to mind was fuel. I assumed I was having a fuel issue (clogged filters, failed pump, etc.) truck only had 45,000 miles on it so I took it to my local dealership for what I assumed would be a warranty job. I dealer service all my trucks while under warranty. Long story short I was told it was a fuel contamination issue which scared the walls of the hpfp throwing metal pieces into the injectors, fouling them.
I would need all new injectors, fuel rails etc. as well as new filter housings, fuel tank cleaning, etc. I had receipts for every drop of fuel put in the vehicle and fought all the way to through the dealership to Ford who sent out a rep and who denied the warranty work. Fortunately my insurance company covered the ordeal and all repairs were completed. I got the truck back and 2 weeks later the truck died on me again. I called the dealership back who supposedly warranted the repairs but there first words were there is no way it is their problem, they would look at it but I have to consent that if they find it is contamination again I am responsible for the repairs which we all know just to diagnose they have to remove the cab etc.
I of course lost my mind and told them this is there issue and there is no way in hell I am that unlucky that I received 2 bad tanks of fuel from 2 different high volume highway side fuel stations in the same 2 months. it is obvious they missed something or there is another issue that was not addressed. They claim there is no way they missed something. I am at a standstill.
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OK so my 2001 F250 was leaking power steering fluid from the lower portion of the gearbox (where the pitman arm attaches).
I found a thread on this forum where it showed how you could change the seals out WITHOUT taking the gearbox out.
So I got the pitman arm off with a heavy duty puller. Then I scraped out the 1st rubber seal hoping to reveal a snap ring behind it. Well, the seal is 99% scraped off, but there is not evidence of a snap ring. It does seem like there is some metallic ring holding another rubber seal in behind it. But again, I can't find the little open spots that you put your snap ring pliers in to get snap rings out.
How do I get this metallic thingy out???? I already broke a small drill bit trying to drill it out. It just doesn't seem like the best way to go about it.
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I can't find canister pressure valve hose. It looks cut from the pressure valve in some way. Tried following it from gas tank but I've lost it through the chassis.
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Today I noticed a leak at the heater hose assembly at the right rear of the engine compartment. It appears to have special connectors and that appears to be where the leak is coming from.
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99 F250SD V10. There are two connections on the heater core at the firewall. Is there an 'inlet' and an 'outlet' or does it not matter? Put a cummins in the truck, the V10 has been out for a while and cant remember which one is which.
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Need the fuel system diagram or schematic for my truck.
1999 250 superduty v-10 Ser# 1FTNF20S1XEC67940
Every time I run it I smell gas. I changed the f/p 6mo ago. While I was working on it I noticed there was a hole rubbed in a small hose. I assumed it was a return line (smelled gas before too) and when I fixed it the smell went away until lately. I dropped the tank,yesterday and didn't see any problems. Just need to find out what hoses go where so I can replace the hoses??
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I have put a new steering pump on my 2002 f250 and all new hydraulic hoses. I plan to install a steering pump filter on the system to protect it from anything that is not steering pump fluid.
There are two intake ports to the steering pump. One is near the bottom of the pump and takes fluid from the steering pump cooler after it has left the steering gear. The other intake port is near the top of the pump and takes fluid from the booster.
My question is - which hose would be better to put a steering pump filter on? Is there anything wrong with putting a filter on both? I imagine the first intake hose is constantly circulating fluid and the other only circulates it when the steering wheel is used.
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I bought a 99 f250 super duty with v-10. Ran great then I decided to hose off engine compartment. No pressure washer just running water trying to get all the dirt off now the engine sounds like its missing. Could I have a coil pack that got wet or is something else wrong.
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I've had DTC P0171 & P0174 (lean in bank 1 and lean in bank 2) for a few weeks now (check engine light cued me on it). Autozone scanned it for me. It's on a 2003 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L.
My first step was to clean the MAFS. Light came back on in about 30-40 miles. I then replaced the MAFS. 30-40 miles and the light came back on.
My first thought was disconnecting the battery wasn't resetting the comp and thats why the light was comming back on.
I went and picked up an Actron cheapy OBD II Scanner today at lunch. Cleared the codes with the scanner and drove back to work.
Checked the codes when I got back (no light on but was curious) and it shows P0171 & P0174 pending.
I've checked and the dipstick is seated properly. The hoses on the air intake appear to seated properly as well. The top hose is a pretty loose fit but it was seated all the way down. The top hose was oily. Not sure if this is normal or not. Could the loose fitting oily hose be the culprit?
Also, what is the lower hose? It comes off the back of the air intake and goes to the driver side valve cover. I know it's not the PCV hose as that is on the passenger side valve cover....right?
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I have a 2005 f350 6.0 has 585000. Installed new hpop and lpop and new ipr .pressured oil system with air don't hear any leaks. After truck done started then put truck together no start same problem as before. No oil pressure on dash. All checks goqd except not enough high pressure.
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I have found a 3" crack in the steel floor of my F350 2005. It's located at the base of the gearbox tunnel not far from the drivers right foot.
Is this a common structural failure point on the F350 or am I just unlucky?
The vehicle gets abused in the dunes but I would have thought the suspension and drive train would have failed before the floor inside the cabin!
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I have a 2001 Ford F250 V10 with about 70,000 miles on it and now the gauge indicates low pressure when my warmed up truck idles around 1000 RPM.
I went off road the other day into some mud and since then I have had my oil pressure gauge reporting low at idle and normal when moving.
I was a quart and 1/2 low on oil which I filled and the next day I changed the oil. I then had taken it Ford shop who replaced the oil sensor and said all fixed. It wasn't and I took it back in ... now the mechanic indicated it is probably the crankshaft bearing based on his experience and I should replace the engine.
This seems drastic? Wouldnt' the next step to go check/replace the oil pump?
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I have a few F-250's that have been having steering problems. and they all have the same symptoms.
When taking a long slow curve, the steering wheel will jump back like 6 inches, as if the pressure is going out. like say you had the vehicle turned to about 10 oclock, the wheel would go back and forth between 10 and 11. However, you do not loose much of your turning. It just has more pressure against your hand as if the power steering goes out.
You can also do it a standing stop. Only when you turn your wheel like say to 9, you can just use a finger to hold it there and it will bounce up and down? I have asked the local Dealership, and their answer was "there is something wrong with the power steering." couldn't get much more vague than that I guess.
I have looked for leaks, none. Checked struts, not bent. Checked tires, all brand new and balanced. Checked steering wheel mounts, all good to go... ???? Just lost...
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I have been leaking oil on one of my work trucks. I do not know what the part is called or named. the leaks seems to be coming from above or behind a part that the driver side motor mount. As you can see in the image, the part has a sensor and a concave dip that runs along the middle of it. Well, I stuck my fingers behind that and it has a dip on the other side too which face up and that dip was puddled with oil. I need to know what that part is called or named or what is directly behind it that can be causing the leak. I hope its just a gasket and it is not cracked.
Part that is leaking behind. 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty V10
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What is the proper tire pressure for these trucks (F250)?
Sidewall says max is 80 PSI.
Door jam says 71 PSI.
This is coming from a guy who has traditionally driven passenger cars and trucks. I've never even gotten CLOSE to advertised max PSI ratings. 71 seems awful close to max PSI.
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I have a 1992 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4 My brakes wont hold pressure I replaced master cylinder and calipers had the system pressure bled. I don't have any fluid lose and vacuum is good. Can the proportioning valve let fluid bypass, or the rear anti-lock braking system valve let fluid to bypass.
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Started truck it ran about 10 sec. then quit, low oil pressure came up on the dash will not start now.
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