Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 V10 Cranked Fine But No Hint Of Starting
Oct 5, 2013
1999 F250 SD V10 I recently replaced the in-tank fuel pump and filter. I operated the truck briefly after and everything was normal. I parked it with about 1/4 tank of new fuel and put it on a battery tender. It was parked in a garage on level ground in temperate weather(Southern Calif.). Two months later I tried to start it and it acted like it did when the fuel pump was bad. Cranked fine but no hint of starting. Could it be the fuel lines have become full of air and need purging through Schrader valve ? I haven't begun to troubleshoot but what to check other than pushing the fuel relay reset button.
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Need to diagnose my truck issues. On my 2002 F250 V10, when I try to start it, the engine just cranks and cranks and cranks with no fire or even hint if starting. I am not sure if it has no spark or isn't getting any fuel. I just replaced all ten spark plugs and coils less than 500 miles ago. I want to perform the fix myself, but I need to get the problem diagnose the issue first.
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My truck ran and drove then I changed my Steering Gearbox. After all that, I went to go start it, the trucked cranked and the batteries died. Hooked up the charger then and nothing, No start no crank. F250 2006 diesel 6.0 ...
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I recently caught up on some maintenance with my truck, changed the turbo pedestal seals, replaced both batteries, brakes, e-brake cable etc and installed new 10k hid headlights. its a single cab 250 with a 7.3 and zf6 4x4 with 133k. a couple days ago I turned on the headlights and the truck died, restarted no problem and would die the next 5 times I tried to turn them on, then it worked fine. yesterday I got in my truck to leave for work and got no wait to start light, no glow plug chatter, no fuel pump running. turns over just fine but no fire.
I got a ride to work and tried it when I got home, fired right up. I pulled the pCM, checked it out, no weird smells and my TS chip wasn't corroded or anything like that, worked fine. drove to 711 to get a 6 pack and it did the headlight thing again. I removed the HIDs because this all started after I installed them and reinstalled my silvanias and it didn't die when I turned them on. this morning went to leave for work, same no start condition. I disconnected both batteries for 30 seconds to reset anything and same problem. I was about ready to light it on fire this morning.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3L and it wont start. Its been sitting for the past few days in the cold because the batteries were shot but was plugged in the whole time. I replaced the batteries today and even poured diesel 911 5 hours before trying to start it in case the fuel was gelled. It cranks fine but just wont turn over.
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want to raise the front of my 99 f250 super duty. I only found rough country for my options. I am looking for a 2-3" lift. Will the 3" lift spindles work fine? What else am i going to need? Shocks?
[URL].....
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I am looking at purchasing a 1999 f250 Crew Cab Long bed with the V10. It has 120,000 miles on it and has been very well taken care of and maintained. The current owner says that over the last couple of weeks it has started to start sporadically. The first time it did it was after a 30 minute drive. Parked the truck outside his garage and a hour later when he went to pull it in the garage, it wouldn't start. He called a mechanic friend that told him to trip the inertia switch.
Pressed the switch, it clicked, and then the truck fired right up. Since then it has done it twice more but now instead of tripping the inertia switch he turns the key on and off 10 times and then it starts right up. What this would be? I would normally think fuel pump since cycling the key on and off would be building pressure in the system if the pump was just starting to die but the inertia switch being tripped has me confused.
The owner thinks or was told that quickly turning the key off and on is resetting the computer and after turning the key 8 times the locks lock and unlock and the lights flash once. Is this what it is doing? I thought turning the key on and off in multiple succession let you manually read the codes...
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Owning a 2001 F250 Extended cab with a 7.3 I have not had a lot of questions to ask fortunately.
My truck has spent a lot more time sitting than running lately and when I went to start it the other day it cranked fine but would not fire. Quick read on this forum and the first thing I found was how if the fuel solenoid had less than 10.8 volts when cranking it would not start.
I went down and checked the battery voltage and it was at 12.1 volts no load. I put the battery charger on for about 10 hours (time to kill) and when I pulled the charger and cranked it over, started with no problem.
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My 2003 F-250 (gas V8) will always start right up when it is cold. However, once it has warmed up, it often will not start. Cranks fine, but not even wanting to start (like someone pulled all the plug wires) and has left me stranded until I wait for 3+ hours for it to cool back down. Doesn't trip the check engine light, but seems to be due to the engine being hot. What this could be?
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My 1999 F-250 wont start unless I use a squirt of fluid but once started it will run fine could this be my cam sensor or do I have an injector problem.
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My diesel truck is stuck at work. It cranks but it's not starting up. When I turn the key, the glow plug light takes a lot longer than usual to turn off. When I try to start the truck, it cranks fine and I get a lot of white smoke coming out the exhaust pipe. I've had this truck less than a year and I know very little about Diesel engines. I at least need to get it running long enough to get home. The parking lot at work is really busy pretty much 24/7 and towing it out of there would get pretty dicey.
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I have a new to me 2000 F250 7.3 diesel with automatic. Truck has 185K miles and tranny is starting to slip occasionally. Do these trucks come with a OEM tranny cooler or do I need to add or upgrade the OEM one. Someone also told that there is something called "bulletproofing" the tranny on these trucks. BTW, what would be a reasonable cost to have a two wheel drive auto tranny done on my truck?
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I have a 2000 F250 7.3 manual tranny that was put away for winter storage and now will not start. Need it to get my weekend work done now that the snow is finally gone. Symptoms:
- not cranking
- no dash lights (no oil light, battery light, etc.)
- radio works
- head lights work
- key buzzer works
- can hear clicking when turn key (assume solenoid OK)
Put in two new batteries, fully charger and terminals are clean. Where should I start looking?
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Just started having this issues on my 2012 F250 6.7 with 71K. Turn the key and no problems. Once I start my truck service advance track pops up, along with the e-brake light and some other lights before all shutting off. I then loose all functions in my instrument cluster, window controls, AC/heat controls. The truck still runs and drives with no problems I just have no dash functions. My blinkers and headlights still work (with no cluster indicating). Fog lights do not work. Turn the truck on and off and the problem repeats itself.
I did get stuck in a massive rain storm with some big puddles last night. Went to dinner and started having the problems on the way home. The functions were temperamental last night but seem to be worse today.
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I have for the 4th time in a little over a year developed another issue with a rear caliper hanging up last year i ended up replacing both rear calipers with reman. from NAPA. 3 months ago i had to replace the right rear again. Now currently i am having the left rear starting to hang up again. I've done a fluid flush and everything. I'm kind of at a loss. I don't normally have this much trouble with brakes. Some of the symptoms that go along with this are a spongy pedal and inconsistent brake feel just like when you have air in a line.
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I have a 2003, F250 SD, 5.0 with a weird problem no one can figure out. Now it doesn't matter what time of the year it is but after the truck sits a few days when I go to start it up it run roughs. Sometimes for a few seconds sometimes a few minutes then it "straightens" itself out. Recently it took almost a day to fix itself. No engine codes, no other symptoms.
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After the details below, the truck finally started & I let it idle over an hr. Then turned it off for the night. Just to check, immediately tried restarting. Turned over very fast. Started once almost immediately & ran for 1 - 2 sec, then died. After that it turned over fine, but no attempt to fire - just as it's done in the past.
2000 F150, 5.4 L gas. Couple weeks ago it didn't start. Cranked fine - no sign of starting. It did this once a couple mo before that - wife was shopping & didn't start at the store. By time I got there, it had started. Her "solution" was loosened / retightened the gas cap (no, don't know why).
Never found a problem - didn't do it again for months. Then it did. Figured a code scanner would show something relevant to starting problem. It didn't - as far as codes go.
Couple weeks ago, battery was NOT dead by any means, but slightly weak (hadn't driven for couple weeks). I charged the battery (< 1 yr old). Seemed to take charge OK - didn't take long. But, after charging, volts at the battery = 12.8v.
Is it possible that's too low for these trucks & cause starting problem? It turned over quite fast - still no sign of firing. Gas isn't old. New Autolite spark plugs. Clean air filter.
I decided then to use the "jump start" setting on my charger (2 weeks ago) - still didn't fire & made no difference in cranking RPMs. Jacked around that day a couple of hrs. Checked all fuses (inside & under hood).
Bought the scanner - needed one anyway. Actron 9580A. All it shows on codes is a problem ABS wheel sensor (C1230) and a non-MIL code:
P1000: "OBDII Monitor / Drive cycle test not complete."
Suggested fix: "drive vehicle until drive cycle test is complete."
I don't think that's keeping it from starting. No idea about the drive cycle test. The battery hasn't been disconnected OR dead since I replaced it. It's certainly been driven hundreds of miles since new battery. Right after reading the codes today, decided to try starting. Didn't turn over quickly - battery somewhat low after 2 weeks w/o driving.
Surprise - it started - though didn't turn over fast. I let it idle some, then started recording data w/ the scanner. Where a couple weeks ago w/ the engine turning over like mad, it wouldn't start or even fire.
Note: only real difference in today (when finally started) & 2 weeks ago, or the time several months earlier: today is much cooler - in the 60's - vs. 90's the times it didn't start.
So, right back at square one - no signs of what's keeping it from starting. Maybe need some instructions on using more advanced features of the scanner / recording live data (if it starts again).
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I'm assuming its a valve.
2004 F250 with 5.4L. 128,000 miles. Oil changed every 4K but its my work truck. She works hard for a living towing landscape trailers 98% of the time.
When the engine is first cranked, there is a ticking sound from the right side. Its quite noticeable but only does this until I get going. Once I get to driving, it fades away. If I turn the engine off and let it sit for a little while, when I start it, the ticking is back again. As long as I keep it running, it stays quiet.
If this is a valve or rocker arm, how big of a repair is it? What happens if I don't deal with it until the winter (off-season)?
I've tried Marvel Mystery Oil and now with this oil change, I have Rislone in there. Both have made no difference.
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I have recently placed a new shortblock from Nashville engines. My retired ford diesel mechanic said it was the best shortblock he has ever seen. Since working on my truck he has ordered 6 small block from them. I used reman'd Ford heads after going through three sets of heads from Clearwater heads and one set from ProMaxx Cylinder Heads out of rainbow AL.
Since putting in new long block the truck smokes a puff of white smoke each morning. Enough smoke that it bothers me. A new longblock with new injectors should not be smoking. I have changed the fuel filters thinking the 5 sets of heads previously put on the truck may have gummed the motor up and have ran octane boost for the last 500 miles. I ran a 2000 mile road trip and the truck still smokes when cranked. sometimes a lot and sometimes a little. What could be causing this?
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I am experiencing what feels like a "bump in the rear" when initially starting from a dead stop. It feels like a car behind me tapped the bumper or that the truck "hunkers down" first, then moves. Tranny seems fine also. Once moving, there is no problem whatsoever. There atre no noises, leaks, or other symptoms. Also, when coming to a stop, it feels the same way just before the truck completely stops. If I drift forward a little, then apply the accelerator, it does not "slip" or hunker down.
Took it to the dealer and they claim that they can't find anything wrong and may just be the suspension releasing? The truck does this whether loaded or not?
2001 F250 CC Lariat SB 7.3
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I have a 99 f350 super duty with a v10. I drove it Friday night, but it wouldn't start Saturday morning. It is turning over fine, just no start. I have no pressure at the fuel rail. The pump does its little key on run. I can hot wire the pump at the tank, and it pumps. It builds up pressure after the fuel filter. I found that out when I changed the fuel filter. Will the pressure regulator shut off the fuel to the rail?
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