Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - Thump While Backing Up - Loss Of Reverse And Park
Jul 9, 2015
I was driving my 1999 F250 5.4 Triton last week, after noticing a thump while backing my small boat down the ramp (sounded like u joint) I went and parked. When I got back in the truck it starts fine but when I shift into reverse, it's staying in drive, anywhere I put my shift lever..... It's in drive! I even noticed that even all the way up into park it feels like it's in drive, but with something holding it back. If I give it gas while in park it will go forward! I have tightened the two torx screws under dash, pulled cable off and tried shifting by hand (clicks like switching gears, but still in drive) pulled pan, everything looked good there, fluid is nice and red, smells good, no metal in pan? It's the 4r100od tranny.
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I have a 2001 F250 V10,
So the truck drove fine yesterday had zero issues... I used my auto start as I do every morning in this cold weather, get into the truck and shift from park to drive and its like it does nothing. I can free rev in N,D,1,2. Reverse works great.
I tried switching from 4wd to 2wd, no change. Reverse works just fine. No noises, codes or anything, just doesn't want to engage...
I am assuming I have a 4R100. Could something electrical cause this? I am thinking its mechanical, but hoping someone has ran into this before.
Literally no way I would have known the trans was going bad... It's always worked fine. Tranny fluid is full, I tried unplugging the battery waiting and plugging back in, no dice.
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My F-250 super duty has a bump thump when I stop if I release the the brake it goes thump bump? Does not do this if I put it neutral. Seems to do this in Acceleration from a stop, shifting goes bump sometimes, When hitting rough roads does not seem there bump thump suspension issues?? Already greased the drive spline joint the same, checked if there is anything loose nope, checked spare tire secure , 75,000 miles stock shocks?? something in the transfer case?? The rear end just had the seals replaced??? Tranny is secure??
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I've been noticing that one of my front hubcaps has been backing off slightly. I tap it back on and it's good for a while. But lately I'm noticing that I have to tap it back on more often. I took it off today, thinking that I might need a new one. The part number on the inside is IC34-IA096-AB. It's on my 2003 Ford F250 4x4.
I pulled the opposite cover and tried it on the side I'm having trouble with and noticed the same thing. Upon further inspection, I noticed that the chrome plated trim piece that covers the steel rim has tabs that should be flat to the rim. I'm referring to the area where the trim piece ends, near the lug nuts. On the one that I'm not having trouble with, it's flush/flat all around. But on the one I'm having trouble with, some of the ends are not flush to the rim. That is why the hubcap is not seating in those areas. I can see the gap and I can also push down on that section. It's almost as if that trim piece is separating from the rim? I tried using a punch and giving it a couple of whacks with a hammer, but it doesn't press it back to being flush with the rim.
Why would the end of that trim piece that covers the whole wheel lift up on the ends? Is there a way to get it to sit flat?
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I was driving my sons 99 f250, 7.3, today, pulled into a friends driveway, put the truck into park, turned it off and got out. 5 minutes later out of nowhere the truck jumped out of park into reverse like someone was in it stomping on the gas then the breaks then the gas, then the breaks. This truck took off in reverse with such force if there was someone behind it they would have been seriously hurt. I was parked on completely flat ground. While this was happening it sounded like it was trying to start and clicking very loud. It is an automatic.
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Had my trans rebuilt in August because of a lagging reverse and loss of shift pressure. Had it rebuilt and beefed up a little and I've had problems getting the trans to be like it was new and seven years ago. I had enough of my head gasket oil leak and loosing my job recently so I bought a trans pressure kit and hooked it up today, all I can say is I now have another problem to get corrected. I'll list my pressures and I took videos so I'll upload them to YouTube and link it that way.
Park - 85psi
oem - 50-65psi
R - 25psi start then slowly rises to 60psi
oem - 70-100psi
N - 85psi
oem - 50-65psi
D - 82psi
oem - 50-65psi
2 - 20psi then slow to 80psi
oem - 50-65psi
1 - 50psi then slow to 100psi
oem - 70-100psi
My WOT pressure at 1-2 and then 2-3 shift is 170psi, I cannot find OEM spec online yet but I believe I was told it should be over 200psi....
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I have an issue with a truck I just bought. Sometimes, it doesn't go to Park when I shut it down. In order to start it I have to sometimes put it in neutral. Once in a while it will start when in the Park gear. What I should look into to fix it? It doesn't seem like a big deal.
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One of my work trucks is a 99 F-250 5.4L. Up until recently it's been running strong. Then one day it's like someone flipped a switch, and now it runs like it's losing power.
Symptoms: a quick short stumble when you first hit the accelerator. While driving, it takes the entire pedal to accelerate. Even with the pedal to the floor, it won't keep up with traffic. Driving uphill, it will barely maintain 40 mph.
I've checked everything I can think of. Fluids and filters are all good. Battery and alternator are good. There are no trouble codes. I have Autoenginuity with the Ford Bundle, and the truck passes every diagnostic test I throw at it.
There's no smoke. It still idles pretty smooth, although there is a slight and very quick random shudder in the idle that has started at the same time it started losing power.
Transmission is good. The last thing I tried was to change the fuel filter, but that made zero difference. Quick question, does the tank on the 5.4L trucks have a pickup screen like the diesels? If so, I might try blowing some compressed air through the fuel line and see if it dislodges anything.
So that's where I'm at. It has no power, yet I can't find a single thing wrong with it.
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I have a 99 F-250SD with 5.4 automatic that just all of a sudden started running unevenly at random times, but frequently. There is a pending code P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire. I have had the truck for 12 years and it has run perfectly for the last 10+ years and just started this problem, it did not come on slowly but all of a sudden. I have seen on here that some people say that 90% of the time a PO300 is a bad cop. I replaced the plugs 60k miles ago when I had a bad coil on plug 10 years ago that did not set any codes, but this seems very different that more than one cylinder seems affected, like maybe 2 or more cylinders are not firing momentarily.
There is a big power loss momentarily while it happens, but doesn't happen for long. The fuel pressure stays pretty constant (30 psi at rail) even while it happens, and it can affect the idle as well as while accelerating or cruising at speed. I cant imagine more than one coil on plug would be skipping at the same times or fail at the exact same time, but maybe having only one bad cop could cause this much hesitation? Does the code that indicates random/multiple cylinder misfire rule out only one bad cop? It just seems like running on 7 cylinders wouldn't be so noticeable. Could a sticking egr valve cause unevenness at idle and higher rpms and set a P0300 code? Would checking manifold vacuum be they way to see if egr valve is not working correctly.
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My 2010 F250 V10 120000 mile has a sudden loss of MPG. It usually is around 12 MPG but now I'm at 8 I checked the air filter and its clean I checked the tire pressure and there all up to pressure. I'm probably going to try the fuel filter next.
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My father has a 2009 Ford F-250 Superduty with the 5.4l V8. Two days ago, he frantically woke me up from a nap because he could not get the truck out of park nor are the brake lights turning on when the pedal is pressed. I instantly thought Shift Interlock, did a quick google search and found that it can be the shift interlock or brake light switch on the brake pedal. I have since then replaced both to no avail as well as checking all fuses. I put a multimeter to the brake light switch connector and am getting a steady 10.2v. I am aware there is a bypass switch but that doesn't address the fact that he has no brake lights.
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My Ford 250 is currently stuck in park, it starts but I can't move the shifter. It sounds like it is a fuse issue from what I have read, but I bought the truck at an auction and I don't have a book. Do the brake or parking brake fuse? And where is it located? I know there is a panel under the hood and under the dash, which fuse to look for. It's a 2008 extended cab gas model.
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2011 250 run fine when parked it Friday jumped in it Monday morning got a check traction control light on will not shift out of park no break lights replaced break switch all fuses are good.
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I have a 2006 F250 V10 that has this issue most of the time but not all the time. Start her up, foot on brake and the shifter wont move. I use the bypass method to get her moving when this happens. It seems to be doing it more often lately. Also I recently has a cruise control issue. Hit the brake to shut it off and it doesn't stop it! Not sure if the 2 are related. The internet said I need to replace the switch on the master cylinder to fix the cruise control. I got lots of different stories on the park issue.
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My 2013 F-250 Super-Duty periodically won't start or come out of park. I have tried the ignition trick of tuning it to first position but with no luck. Sometimes I can see the light for the indicating light for being in park flashing on and off rapidly and manage to get it into neutral to start. It appears to be completely random. I potentially happens when I drive it for longer periods or do frequent stops around town.
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On the highway doing 100 mph. during af take over, my Ford F-250 6,4 Super Duty 2008, lost nearly all power. (now it is like driving my old hummer h1)
Engine and car runs/starts great, only 10 minutes uptil 60 mph. now.
My mechanic has given up. He checked following:
EGR = OK
HOSES = OK
ERROR CODES = NONE
INTER COOLER = OK
PARTICLE FILTER CLEAN = OK
TEST WITHOUT EXHAUST = NO DIFFERENCE
FLUIDS = OK
Hopefully something I can fix with my hammer. The car has 85.000 miles on the clock.
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Iv been chasing an electrical issue with my park lights staying on. Even with the #8 fuse out and the GEM unplugged the lights stay on.
They are being powered by the #4 fuse circuit that power mirrors, glove box light and under hood light are on. With that fuse pulled the park lights go off.
Now I have to figure out how the 2 circuits are connected.
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When passing or going up small inclines on freeway, my F250 seems to make the shift to the passing gear but then almost a complete loss of power. Jerks around for a few seconds and finally provides enough power to at least get back to the original speed. (It feels kind of like the lurching, etc. I used to get when those stinking GM diesel injectors would act up in the 1990's.)
It also stays in first/second as I punch it while entering the freeway and doesn't want to make the shift. I can put it in neutral and race the engine, so I don't think it is an engine problem, unless the transmission is electronically controlled. I have a lot of computer dashboard gauge resets after falling to zero and sometimes have to set and release the parking brake to get the auto door locks and windows to work. (That started after a car break in where the door electronics were apparently pinched, but that was a couple of years ago.)
Does it sound like the transmission or electronics? In the old days replacing an automatic transmission filter seemed to fix a lot of transmission issues. Not an option now, but would I expect to see any results doing a transmission flush and fluid change? It's probably been about 60000 since I had that done. (157000 now).
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty with the 5.4 Triton motor with a 5 speed. I bought the truck a couple months ago, and it had a bad manifold leak (not surprised lol). but it ran fine just noisy. So i had a shop do new gaskets and bolts. Then my problems started.........
When you start up the truck she runs fine and some times drives fine. I will be driving along and its like some one hits a switch and i suddenly loose all power it spits and sputters and i have to down shift to make any kind of hill.
So I figures I had a misfire i got a light on for cylinder 5. So I decided to change all coils and plugs hoping that would clear things up...... well it didn't. It ran great for roughly 15 miles then it started to do the same thing again. I've changed air filter and fuel filter also.
When it starts sputtering i sometimes get a check engine light on and then it goes away. when the light is on the codes are:
P1151 A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.
Read more at: [URL] ....
P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2
Read more: P1152 FORD Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2 | AutoCodes
Both codes come on together always. but it will go away when the sputtering clears up. I just checked fuel pressure its at 32psi at a idle.
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I have an early 1999 f250 diesel. I originally googled having the airbag light on and loss of cruise control and came up with it more than likely being a bad clock spring. So I replaced the clock spring, and it was definitely blown. I have a horn now, not sure if I did before or not, but still the light is on and no cruise control. The airbag light is flashing code 27 which I believe means the passenger airbag has issues.
So I tried turning the key in the switch for the passenger airbag to deactivate it, but it only lets me turn it 45 degrees and no light comes on. It looks like the key should turn 90 degrees but maybe I'm just an idiot. I see a lot of people with the bulbs dying and running into issues but that wouldn't explain the inability to turn the key 90 degrees. Also would the airbag light being on deactivate the cruise or is that just some other issue? For what its worth, I plugged in a code reader and no codes came up, just the flashing airbag light.
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My 2001 f250 on occasion will roll a very uncomfortable distance when I put it in park. Not all the time, but enough to concern me. It will roll a good 12-18" before the park rod or what have you engages. Doesn't seem to be affected by grade. Matter if fact it has always done it on just slight grades. Nothing like a boat ramp. It rolls enough that if someone had been front or back it would have bumped them.
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