Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - Shakes Around 70 - 80 Kmh?
Nov 26, 2013
My 1999 f250 v10 automatic shakes really bad only when your doing 70-80 kmh unless you shut off the overdrive or go faster... why?
View 8 RepliesMy 1999 f250 v10 automatic shakes really bad only when your doing 70-80 kmh unless you shut off the overdrive or go faster... why?
View 8 RepliesAlright i got a 2000 f250 with the 7.3 and its stick, when i let off the clutch to start moving, and at low speeds like mainly 1st and 2nd gear. Right below the cab there's a loud kinda growling or rumble, it shakes the truck a bit til i start moving good. Then it goes away. But what it could be? I think pilot bearing.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 f250 superduty gas v10 6.8L . I bought this truck about 4 months ago. Now when I take off from a complete stop the truck shakes up until second gear, shifts fine all the way up until the last gear it looses power "loosing power" i mean i can put my foot into the pedal and it takes forever to climb speed meanwhile the RPM'S never skyrocket like it the transmission was slipping if anything a couple times the RPM's dropped are stayed the same then as i take my foot off of the pedal once i have my desired speed sometimes not always the truck will give me a little jerk Also Just the other day I was driving on the highway and decide to put her on cruise control at about 70mph, I set the cruise control and the RPM gauge was just over 2,000 and the tach was fluctuating up and down about 1/16 of an inch. I been reading alot of forums and what I got out of them is it maybe pointing me to a misfire maybe the coil packs? Plugs?It's not something major like a transmission rebuilt.
View 6 RepliesI have spent alot of time looking through threads about v10's misfiring and have not been able to resolve my issue. I recently purchased a 2000 v10 f250 with about 220000 miles on it I bought it knowing it had one miss fire but now I have a total of three. Te truck has no problems accelerating but at a little over 40 mph the engine shakes quite noticeably and after 60 i5 seems to smooth out. After alot of reading I replaced all of my plugs and ignition coils, ran a can of sea foam through my gas tank and my intake with no change to the miss fires. I have started my trials with the fuel injectors by switching them from miss firing cylinders to ones that aren't. Some other information is my truck has no egr on my intake.
View 4 RepliesSo I'm new to this, but heard that there a lot of great people on here that have tons of knowledge. So here goes. I have a 03 7.3 f250. I'm have trouble with the first initial 20 minutes of the truck starting. It starts fine but if I throw it drive and start to go it's shakes bad runs horrible and will sometimes stall out. If I let it idle for 15 to 20 minutes first and then drive it it runs perfect. I have replace the fuel filter, and air filter. The truck has roughly 125000 miles on it.
View 14 RepliesMy truck has been shaking/jiggling like crazy after hitting a quick succession of bumps and potholes and won't stop until I bring my truck to a complete stop. Happened 4 or 5 times in my old '87 F250 over a period of months, happened 4 times starting yesterday with my '02. Heard it may be the steering damper shock.
View 9 RepliesI have a 'new-to-me' Ford F-550 with the vaunted 7.3 Powerstroke diesel engine. The truck only has 120k miles and ran great when I bought it. Last week it began acting up. While driving on the highway, it lost power, began running rough, and once I pulled over, it died.
After a few minutes, I tried re-starting the truck, it started, but had little to no power....I could get up to 30-35mph and then it would slow down and lost all power. I let the truck sit for about 20 minutes while I refilled the diesel tank, it started right up and drove normally for another 10-15 minutes and then the same thing happened again.
The truck sat for a day and then drove normally for two entire days. This morning, it began acting up. It is the same as before..... what to do with this type of issue?
There is not a check engine light lit (yes, it works). The diesel is from a good source that is not causing problems in anything else. The truck is otherwise strong.
2009 f350 6.7 super duty... What is causing my truck to shutter or shake when I turn the ignition off?
View 6 RepliesProblem: 55-60+ mph hit a bump front end shakes violently. Slow down to 40 mph it stops. DOES NOT happen every time, and may only happen once a week, but when it does my whole front end feels like it will come loose.
Solutions to date that have not worked:
1. Rotate and balance tires. (tire shop)
2. New shocks. (me)
3. New steering stabilizer. (me)
4. Changed ball joint and bushing in track bar. (Dealership)
5. Check ball bearings and seem to be ok. (me)
6. Check tie rod ends and are ok. (Dealership)
The only other options people have given me:
1. Dual Steering Stabilizer. (Have had truck since Jan and hasn't done it in about 19,000 miles. Why would it need it now? Truck has 109,000 miles on it.)
2. New tires. (If it were the tires wouldn't it do it all the time? )
I have a 2000 f350 v10 ext cab 8 ft bed 4wd,i replaced all 10 plugs all 10 coils at 40 mph the truck violently shakes an vibrates read on a few things that could be crack cylinder or bad pistons,i did a test on it an says low compression in 2 cylinders 1&2 what can I do an what is the best option for me as I just got the truck not even a month ago...
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 f350 7.3. I'm having a problem where the steering wheel shakes back and forth and the whole truck wobbles. It happens at all speeds, but shakes faster at faster speeds, slower at slower speeds. At first the wheel was just jerking randomly but then I made a right turn, heard a pop, and then it was shaking like crazy. I jacked up the truck and checked the ball joints, checked for and play in the tie rods, and turned the wheel left and right. Everything seems ok so I can't figure out what is causing to wheel to go back and forth.
View 2 Replies2014 F450. Front end and steering wheel shake violently when braking while towing a 20,000 pound trailer down a long and steep highway grade. It does not happen when towing my 12,000 pound trailer down the same highway. Could I be setting off the ABS braking system?
View 14 RepliesIt's an 04 F350 6.8L This past winter when it was cold I would start it up and it would rock forward and bounce back as is you shifted in to park while rolling. Now that it's warmed up it won't jerk forward but the whole body shakes only at start up. As much as I like the idea of of the raw torque being so powerful the truck twists with power I don't think that's the case.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 SD with 5.4 that is running pretty rough both at idle and driving. Truck shakes a lot at lower rpms. I have a scan tool and had a misfire on cylinder 4 so I replaced the coil and the plug. Also replaced the idle air control valve. Plan on replacing O2 B1 S2. (One of my codes) even after replacing the coil and plug I'm still getting misfire detected from cylinder 4??? Other codes I had were misfire detected on he first 1000 revolutions. That hasn't come back though.
View 2 RepliesIs there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
View 2 RepliesSo I just bought a 2016 F-250 (6.2L Gas) and the dealer says the trucks don't have gas caps anymore. Built in vapor lock blah blah blah... I have seen this on some cars, but it looked different. Mine looks like it should have a cap screwed on.
I have 200 miles in and "Check Fuel Cap" keeps popping up on the dash. I'm going to call the dealer when they open today but was wondering if anyone has bought a 2016 without a gas cap.
I'm working on my brothers 99 f250 super duty 2wd. The truck pulls to the right. Here's the list of things I've changed and checked
1. Gear box
2. Tie rods
3. Ball joints (aligned)
4. New bearings and seals
5. Brake rotors and calipers. Front and rear.
6. Rotated tires front to back
7. Rotated tires in cris cross pattern
8. 4 new tires (factory size tires)
9. Rebalanced tires
10. Aligned for a third time.
And the truck still pulls right. What is causing this!
I have a 2003 f-250 s/d 7.3 ltr. 4x4, it is lifted 4" with 20 " pro comp tires and an auto tranny. I am getting between 10 and 11 mpg. whether pulling my 26 ft. trailer or just driving around town. I was told that is not good mpg. What I can do to improve the fuel economy or is 10 mpg normal.
View 11 RepliesJust wanting to know what might be wrong truck will not go into 4x4. All fuses in panel looked good. Light on dash is not coming on was working last weekend just fine. Have the hubs in lock position not auto.
View 6 RepliesI've had my 99 F250 for about 2 weeks and my SES light came on last week. I took it into AutoZone and they read the code. DPFE sensor EGR etc. The kid behind the counter mentioned something about removing those and saving some money. We don't have any emissions testing. I don't want to take any short cuts really, but if its unnecessary to have than why not delete it. I have the 5.4 and it has 189,000 miles and we did buy the truck to haul the camper so that plays into the scenario also.
View 9 RepliesOkay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?