Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - RPMs Surge When Let Off The Gas While Driving
Sep 10, 2015
I've got a 99 f250 5.4 that runs like a top. In the last 6 months I've been chasing a little problem. It doesn't happen all the time but seem to be happen more and more. While driving any speed If I let off the gas the RPM's hold at around 1500 then surges down to 1000 then back up again to 1500.
Does that 2 to 4 times then all good. Give it gas again it does it again. It kind of does it when it wants. Could be fine for a trip around then next trip it acts up again. Checked a lot of the vacuum lines, PVC valve and replaced the idle control next to the EGR valve. EGR is next.
Idles and runs fine except the surge thing..
P0401 code as well.
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I have a 99' f250 I purchased a few months ago. Here's what happened. Today I was driving down the road and it started to surge. I pulled over and shut the truck off. When I went to start it, the motor turned over slow for a sec and then clicked. When I put a jump pack to it, it fired up. I took it home with the jumper still hooked to it and checked voltage. The alternator was throwing 33.4 volts!! I went to the auto parts store and bought a new battery and alternator. Now the battery shows 11.7 volts steady. The alternator still reads 33.4. Also, if I unplug the positive lead while it's running, the truck shuts off. And one more thing. If the key is off and I reconnect the positive lead, I can hear the fuel rail pressurize. What is going on? I hate electrical gremlins.
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I just got 03 f250 with 6.0 and when shifting has a weird surge/lag thing happening. Reminds me a little of the old 7.3 surge when it was just started on a cold day. Seems to be worse in higher gears.
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Ok, I have a 2004 F250 FX4 4wd 5.4L with almost 160K miles.
Sometimes, mostly when it's hot, and I go to restart it, it will crank and crank and crank, so I let off and then try again and it will start. Then other times I will have to do it 3-5 times before it starts, or it will start with real low RPM's for a second then cut out. I have been told this truck does NOT have a Fuel Pump Driver Module (My previous F-150 did). So I'm thinking the fuel pump is just temperamental. Having this issue or replaced a fuel pump before? What brands, places, etc. are good to buy at a decent price?
I tried to look online and was confused about a "midship, rear, and center tank". All I know is my truck is an extended cab and has about a 29 gallon tank.
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My 05 f250 5.4 has developed a whine that is easy to hear in low rpms. I don't think it goes away with higher rpms, but instead is just masked by the sound of the engine. It will do this in drive, reverse, and also when it is revved in park. What this could be?
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I have 2005 f250 5.4l 3v that was having miss problems between 1200 and 2000 RPMs. Changed VCT solenoids which worked, but then could hear chain hitting cover when powering down throttle on left side. Figured chain tensioner was bad, so tore down and removed timing cover. Found left chain was tighter than what seems normal, and right side had huge amount of slack. While taking off tensioner on left side, something happened to fast for me to see it, and still not sure if what happened wasn't just my imagination. I thought that the chain moved very fast for an inch or two. Anyways, I watched how to video on timing the 3v, but I am very confused about it. The left bank seems to line up on timing marks perfectly, but the right chain is off by at least 2 1/2 links. Not knowing any better, I removed three rockers on left bank (2 intakes and 1 exhaust) but only removed two intake rockers on right side. I don't know what I am doing and getting scared.
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I have a 2003 F250 with the 5.4 and I believe I am having a fuel delivery issue. I took out yesterday and stopped to get a drink at the gas station, came back out and the truck wouldn't start long enough to idle. It would start, barely bounce off zero rpms and die out. I checked the fuel interia switch and it was down. I tried turning the key back and forth thinking it might reset the fuel pump or something and that didnt work. I get the truck towed home and couldn't get it to start last night. I go out this morning and it starts, come home from work and now it won't. This happened about 2 years ago and I never did anything about it, but it took 2 years for it to happen again.
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I'll try not to post an entire book.. But I bought a 2000 F250 not even 8 months ago, it did have issues before but I changed out the spark plugs and coils and it fixed it's original missing issues.. I also just recently changed the fuel filter but it didn't fix it's new problem.. It drives ok around town but if I get over 35 mph it doesn't run well... If I try to keep a steady foot on the gas but don't get the RPMs over 2000, the RPMs will stay where they're at for just a second then they will drop down and the whole truck starts shaking.. I push more on the gas and it shakes even more and the RPMs don't move at all until I really step on it.. It lacks in power going up hills as well... The dealership i bought it from said the Catalytic Converter was bad but my uncle who is a mechanic says it isn't.. It's the first vehicle I've bought so kinda wanna make it last..
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I've been having issues with the charging system on my 2005. The battery was 7 years old, so I replaced it. Now, the battery light comes on dimly (and flickers) when at low RPM. I am thinking alternator. I replaced one on my 2002 F150, but haven't done a 250. How hard are they to get to and replace? This is on a 5.4 gasser.....
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So basically I thought it would be a great idea to degrease my motor from the top down.... After washing I start it up and drive down the road to head abunch of misfiring under heavy load or high rpm's.
My problem is that the misfiring won't throw a code. I then proceeded to buy a new ignition coil (thinking this was the problem) but with no code to go off which cylinder was bad I just switched the good ignition coil into each cylinder and starting it.
Up each time. None of them seemed to make it better. Also the injectors all seemed to be good. So what to do ?
2002 Ford F-250 5.4l
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I go out of town for work for a week and come back and my 1999 F250 V10 GAS, is acting up. It started when i tried to drive it and it didn't want to shift, it would rev up to 3000+ RPMs and finally shift really hard into gear along with the speed odo not keeping up and bouncing around not wanting to work. I also had my entire gauge cluster lit up with no key and door closed. all the lights were on and it was "dinging" like the door was open and it wasn't. you would hear it when you put your ear up to the door.
So my first thought was to change the VSS (which I did) no luck. So I started wiggling wire loops under the fuse box in the cab and the "dinging" quit.. i took it for a drive and it works like nothing ever happened. Obviously I am guessing there's a short so i brought it to my mechanic and hes saying he couldn't find anything by the fuse box but he thinks its closer or even attached to the gauge cluster itself. could this be true? Why would the gauge cluster loop throw off the shift points?
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My 2003 F250 6.0 It started about a month ago and got worse. Let truck idle for 4-5minutes and idle will jump a few hundred rpms. Got worse as it idles and cant figure it out. It eventually died and died once while driving but starred right back up.
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My 2012 F250 6.2L (Gas) engine developed a noticeable drone/vibration when in drive between 1600 - 1800rpm. RPMs above and below that range is fine. But when accelerating, as soon as the RPMs reach 1600, you can feel a slight vibration through the gas pedal and a noticeable sharp draon/moan up till about 1800 or 1900 rpm, then its normal.
I took it to my ford dealer and took the service manager out for a test drive. He said that there is a drone and slight vibration withing that RPM range. He thought that the engine mounts may be loose. But aside all that, he felt something was off and wrote up the service order.
When to pick up the truck and now the service manager changes his tune and said that the drone is normal and happens on all 6.2L super duties.
To be honest, I have the feeling he is pulling my chain.
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I have a 2000 f250 crew cab short bed 7.3 on a 6inch bds lift and 37 inch tires. When I accelerate pretty much any load above 1200 rpms I can feel a vibration, kinda feels like it may be coming from the front left but I'm not sure. I have heard that a wheel bearing going out can cause this, would this maybe be what's causing it?
I thought wheel bearing because it kind of sounds like there's a howl when decelerating, probably when accelerating as well but the trucks too loud and I can't hear it. or also have heard motor mount gone bad, I've also heard ujoints but the ujoints were done this summer. the front ujoint is bad but the front driveshaft shouldn't be turning when out of 4x4 and hubs unlocked.
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I got a 2000 f250, 5.4l, I got a check engine light bout 2 weeks ago and didn't experience any driving issues. The code was p0171, just recently I've been experience troubles idling, if I let my truck idle for about 3 minutes it will want to shut off, also on acceleration the hole truck bumps, feels like I'm in an earthquake. Where I should start with this problem?
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Is there truely no cure for exhaust flutter on a 2002 f250 V10, bedsides putting on headers??? I have the the sound at shift points around 1800-2200 rpms. Sounds great before and after these points....
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I have a 2004 SD with 5.4 that is running pretty rough both at idle and driving. Truck shakes a lot at lower rpms. I have a scan tool and had a misfire on cylinder 4 so I replaced the coil and the plug. Also replaced the idle air control valve. Plan on replacing O2 B1 S2. (One of my codes) even after replacing the coil and plug I'm still getting misfire detected from cylinder 4??? Other codes I had were misfire detected on he first 1000 revolutions. That hasn't come back though.
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My 1997 F250, 4x4, 460, auto has started dying with no warning while driving from 5 to 30 miles. Changed the fuel filter and the fuse under the hood. Where to start.
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While driving down the road the truck will just cut off. We wait a few mins and start it again can drive a few miles and it cuts off again. we have replaced the ignition coils and it is still doing this. No codes are coming up to get any idea what it can be?
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I have a question about my 2001 Ford F250 and the scary road sway I experience on the highway.
I thought it was the garbage and nearly bald tires and the fact that the fronts were bigger than the back, (Previous Owner). I went and got new E rated 265's from Discount Tire.
It actually made the swat feel worse. I thought maybe the tire guys inflated them all to 80 PSI as the sidewalls indicated. I check today and found that they went with the recommended PSI on the door sticker. 60 Front and 80 rear. But this is for the Tire size listed on the sticker.
After the tires cooled here at home I increased the PSI to 80 all the way around. I am having trouble finding my specific problem even though there is a lot of talk in many forums about this issue.
If this does not work should I try lower PSI in the rears and leave the front at 80? Should I try a front steering stabilizer shock? I did tighten up the steering box and took the minor slop out of it, Not is just makes it respond to the sway correction quicker.
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OK, not sure where to start so here goes. I have an 02' f-250 with the v-10. I just had some minor front end body work done and when I got it back I noticed that it just didn't feel right while driving. When I start it, I notice a small misfire while I stand next to the exhaust outlet. Nothing too bad, still runs great. Shortly thereafter I started noticing a more habitual missing while driving. Roughly between 30-40 mph and around 12-1500 rpm the truck feel like the driveline is about to pickle fork the truck. If I let off the gas or step on it, the vibration goes away. And very intermittent.
It will only do it when the truck is warmed up. If I only drive about a mile, it won't do it, yet if I turn around and head back, there it is! Now the weird part. I for reasons I won't get into, I left my ignition on and drained the battery. I just replaced it and for the last 2 days nothing. Nt even a misfire. Now today here it is again. I have read all over the forums for this exact problem and cannot find my exact problem. I have replaced the plugs with Autolites and cleaned the coils as well as the boots and applied a small amount of dielectric grease to the top of the plug. The boots are cleaned and not a sign of cracking or wear.
I replaced the PCV valve and nothing. All the plugs looked exactly the same. Light chocolate in color. Not one looked different than the other. I took them out again last week to verify the plugs weren't bad and the new ones all looked the same as well. I cleaned the MAF sensor also. Just cannot figure out what could be doing this all of the sudden. I don't see where anything wasn't plugged back together when it was being worked on and why would a new battery make it go away for a short time? Oh, and lastly, I have a superchips programmer that came with the truck and there are no codes showing and my check engine light has never came on yet.
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