Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - Noise Like Fan Blades Hitting Coming From The Torque Converter
Dec 22, 2013
Switch out a 5.4 in a F-250 4X4 4 my neighbor now I have a noise like fan blades hitting coming from the torque converter it goes and comes and hits good in reverse...
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I recently purchased this truck so I don't have any history on it. It's the V10 motor, automatic, 4 wheel drive, with a crew cab. I took it to Advance Auto to have them read codes and it came back with torque converter solenoid fault and 2 other codes related to that part. I didn't get to see the actual code numbers.
I've talked to 2 transmission shops and they said they could throw a solenoid pack into it, but that it might not even fix it. The truck drives fine, shifts fine, the tranny oil looks and smells fine, so I'm tempted to not worry about it until something else happens.
The truck has 217,000 miles on it...
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I have a bone stock (other than exhaust) F-250 SD, 6.0 auto, 185k miles. I have a substantial vibration when the torque converter locks - about 50-55 mph. Once the transmission warms up (i.e. 4-5 miles from a cold start) the vibration goes away and the transmission performs flawlessly. Backing out of the throttle and allowing the TC to unlock makes the vibration go away, as does shifting into neutral. There is no noise, just a vibration that will shake the whole truck. Transmission fluid looks good, and showing full. Have had the truck about 4 months, and have not flushed or replaced the filters on transmission.
I've seen a couple of similar threads on vibrations, but not one where the vibration will completely go away. I'm thinking replace the torque converter but wanted to get more information from the experienced experts that know these 5R110s better.
2007 F-250 King Ranch 6.0 PSD, 5R110W, 4" Turbo Back, Otherwise bone stock, 185k.
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When running up through the gears under normal acceleration I can feel almost a double shift in 5th gear. It doesn't occur using tow/haul so I assume it is the TC locking up. Everything else seems fine. Truck has 9k miles, mostly towing. 2016 6.2 ....
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I have an issue to where every once in a while my truck will not shift and when it does shift it slams into gear, and my overdrive light flashes and then I'll turn the truck off let it sit and crank it back up and it drives fine and the overdrive light is off. It shifts normal and smooth other than when this happens. Not sure if it is my torque converter or maybe a solenoid or what. My truck is an 07 f250 6.0 with 192,000.
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I have a 2002 7.3 with the 4r100 173k miles. If your nice to it she drives fine, but if you get on it the torque converter will slip/stall kinda revs up like 300 rpm then slams really hard between 1st and 2nd. Other gears work fine. I've only had it not happen like 10 times since I've owned the truck ..... I don't really beat on it except for towing which I'm starting to do a lot of. Wondering if putting a new stock torque converter in it is worth it.? Not gona blow the bank on a TC unless I'm putting a brand new trans in the truck. Which I don't think it needs in the near future.
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Recently my 2011 f250 sd 6.2s check engine light came on so I took it to my local dealer it was throwing a p0430 code, they said bank 2 cat converter wasn't do it's job so it needed to be replaced. I am concerned that there is an underlying cause of the premature cat fail. I pushed the issue with the service manager and he told me that's all they could do was replace the cat and refused to check anything else on the truck. Is this common? The truck runs and drives fine. I'm just concerned that they are just throwing parts at it to get it out the door.
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Still using the ones that came on my truck new in April 2014. We've had some miserable mix of weather lately. Snow/sleet/rain/freezing rain. The blades are definitely on the way out. What are the best year round wiper blades for northern climate?
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I have a 2001 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L . I purchased the truck used with about 120,000 miles on it. It runs great despite averaging about 10.8 mpg. Shortly after I got the truck, I noticed what I thought was an intermittent transmission issue when the trans would shift. I would get a "flare" that lasted briefly as if the trans was slipping, but it was accompanied by a sound that I'm not sure how to describe, but it was somewhat like hitting a rev limiter. It only happened when the transmission shifted. The fluid was clean and did not smell burnt. I assumed it was a misfire issue, even though it did not happen often, and seemed to only happen at shift points. I changed all of the plugs and all of the coil packs. It still does the exact same thing. Sometimes it only does it once every couple of days, and other times it may do it 3 or 4 times a day.
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Got a POP noise when I hit the brakes. I have to apply some pressure for it to make the sound. Does it once when going forward. Doesn't do it again until I drive a few minutes, then it does it again.
If I go back and forth between reverse and drive, it does it every time as I hit the brakes, but only once until reversing direction again.
Takes some moderate pedal pressure to make the noise. If I turn the steering wheel to either side, it doesn't make the noise.
I've gone over the brakes, nothing there is wrong, and besides it wouldn't go away when I turn the wheel. Nothing is loose in terms of tie-rod ends, wheel bearings, nothing.
It's not bad enough yet to be able to see movement in the ball joints when the wheels are off the ground. Is this the ball joints?
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Have a Howling coming from my single gas tank, truck was sputtering now and then. Yesterday it died and would not start. Towed it home and then it started. Think its the fuel pump, Is it tough to change.... 2005 F250 Super Duty109K Miles...
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I have a 2003 F250 4wd with a 5.4 and 6 spd and 175,000 miles. Yesterday I came out to start it and noticed it had a ticking noise coming from underneath. According to the stock gauge it had normal oil pressure and the oil looked nice and clean and was full. I checked it while running and was able to verify that it is coming from the bottom oil pan/bell housing area. Before anybody says exhaust leak, I just put on JBA headers a few months ago and verified it wasn't an exhaust leak. I was assuming it was a rod bearing so I figured I would let it get to operating temp and see what happens. Once it started getting warm it started getting quiet and finally it just stopped once it hit full operating temp. Took it for a drive and found that it does it when in gear no matter what but stops when I put it in neutral and let out on the clutch. it makes the noise in neutral with clutch pushed in, but stops as soon as you let it out.
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3. I was driving home from work on Tuesday (highway), I heard an intermittent noise coming from the front end, sounded like a rubbing/grinding noise. Yesterday on my way to wok, same thing, on and off. Yesterday on my way home the noise was constant, didn't go away. The noise comes at about 45mph and stays until I'm back under about 45mph, so mainly just on the highway. I put the truck in neutral and let off the pedal and the noise is still there which tells me it isn't engine related.
Yesterday after work I jacked up the front end, spun the tires, no noise. No play in the tires top/bottom or side/side. Took the tires off and what I did notice is the right axle u-joint is shot. I am hearing the noise in 2wd so I don't know if its the u-joint that's making the noise. Could it be a bad wheel hub bearing? Is it the u-joint? Maybe needle bearing??
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I put on huge mud flaps front and rear, have the platinum running boards, spray inner fenders on rear .....thought I had it covered....getting rock chip on front of rear fenders can see impact marks on hard plastic protector and upto 8 inches above it.....thought of 3m on Monday morning but is there anything else? I think the gravel is coming off front wheel hitting bottom of running board touching off road and getting me....can't think of any other way.
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So after this weekend's hurricane my 2011 f-250 started to making a noise when I accelerate. I don't know if water got in some where. But there's no MIL light coming on.
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I have a 2004 f250 with a 5.4l and it won't start. I went to leave the store and went to start it and the truck started when I turned the ignition on not when I engaged the starter so I drove home anyway but there was what sounded like a spraying noise coming from underneath the truck all the way home the truck did die once on the way home but started right back up without me doing anything. Got home shut the truck off now it won't crank or anything all my lights and everything come on like normal just won't crank. What the problem is?
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My 99 F250 has just recently started making a "rattling" noise. The noise sounds like its coming from the front left wheel area. The noise is constant while driving down the road, its NOT created by bumps or anything, its a constant noise while moving.
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2002 F-250 7.3 4x4 ...
I have a rattling noise coming from the front suspension (both sides) when going over small bumps. Most people point to ball joints, but I find my case odd because I just replaced
Upper/Lower ball joints
Track bar
Tie rod ends
Shocks
Front U joints
Drag link
I did not touch the leaf springs or the sway bar, except to grease the links, which otherwise looked good.
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I've done the testing of hitting the brakes when the TC is locked and when it's off the shudder disappears. My question is I recently had a trans flush and both internal and external filters replaced. There was a hint of noise before then but it seems it's getting progressively worse. Could it be that they used the incorrect trans fluid? Reading through it seems as if I should follow the steps of dropping the pan and looking for signs and symptoms and then replace with the correct mercon fluid (if that's not already what's there). Then maybe some additives like shudder fix? I just want to make sure I take the correct steps to solve the problem as to not break the bank getting a new TC put in and missed something cheap and easy. Also reading it could be motor related maybe a misfire so just looking for pinpoint the problem.
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I just bought a 2010 F250 with a 5.4. It is my 16 year old's 1st truck. He is pretty excited. Really nice truck that drives like a 2016. Anyway, it goes into 4wd fine and works fine. The hubs lock in. Everything works fine until you turn the switch to take it out of 4wd. The only thing that will take it out of 4wd is to back up and then turn the truck off and back on. Then it is fine. Both steps have to be done. I know the backing up part is normal, but what about turning the ignition switch on and off?
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I have noticed that the cooling fan is coming on quite often lately. The first I noticed was yesterday when I was towing our boat up to the lake. However, this didn't really concern me because there is an almost 3,000-foot elevation gain from town to the lake, and it was around 90 degrees outside. But, when we got back into town, it seemed to be on often, and sometimes even when the truck is unloaded. Does the fan come on to assist with radiator cooling, or is it primarily for the AC? It's a 2003 F250 with a 7.3. It also comes on most of the time when I first start the truck.
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