Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - New Larger Tires And Hard Downshift
Sep 30, 2016
I put some bfg at's on my '16 f250 6.2 today, 285/70r17 from 245/75r17. Has went to a larger tire and had funny downshifts? I had two hard down shifts on the way home from tire shop that I have never had before. I'm hoping this will go away once the computer relearns. Should I disconnect the battery or anything or just drive it and let it learn? I'm a little disappointed, the tires still look tiny, and checking clearances at liners and radius arms, I could have cleared a lot more tire easily. They sure looked bigger on dads '04. These will do me for a year or so until I can upgrade wheels, tires and suspension.
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While in Tow/Haul with my 5th wheel when slowing down probably at 5 or 10 mph the last downshift is very hard and the brake pedal gets real soft until full stop. Afterwards the brake pedal is firm. Tow/Haul without the trailer is fine. It's an '06 F250 Supercrew 4x4.
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I have a 2004 f250 5.4l w 4r100 and it seams to loose its gear or down shift only when i take a hard right turn. I took it to a trans shop and it shows no codes and at this point I am very confused...
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2015 F-350 diesel purchased Sept 2104. When towing my 16,000 lb 5th wheel the 6 to 5 downshift seems to have gotten much harsher in the last few months. About 10,000 miles on the truck, much of it towing. Is this an indication of a developing problem?
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After the hard downshifting full throttle highway run low speed stomp on it freeway cruising tires spinning on gravel crawling through town day yesterday -
my tranny just doesn't know what to do!! One thing that it does like to do is make that 6.2 spin and sing! Eventually we'll be on the same page so we can work and play seamlessly.
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I have a 2005 f250 super duty turbo diesel 6.0 automatic. The problem I'm having is, when I engage the tow/haul button the transmission doesn't down shift unless I feather the pedal. Also the engine will overheat at times. I've replaced the thermostat, but that's all so far.
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We have a lot of snow and a lot of ice up here at the moment and my 2003 ford F-250 SC Fx4 isn't performing so well. The truck is stock other than a pair of 285/16R BFG A/T's
I have been noticing that my rear tires will spin while trying to go up hill on some ice or snow covered areas and my front tires just sit still while in 4x4 or 4x4 low. In the case I just described I remain stuck in place until the rear tires can get a grip then I continue up hill. I don't understand why my front tires are not spinning as well, to me this seems just like 2 wheel drive not 4x4. I have been using ESOF most of the time. I have mentioned in other threads that I do plan on upgrading to warn premium hubs, but I am wondering if its that my truck isnt actually shifting into 4x4 or if there is a reason why even in 4x4 my rear tires would spin while my front tires do not?
I am confused because when I shift on the fly while driving I can feel the 4x4 kick in because it just feels different than driving with 2 wheel drive, but then something like I described will happen and I start second guessing myself. What might be happening? It's not that I am opposed to switching to the warn premium hubs, but is that actually going to fix this issue or is my truck acting normally??
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I have a stock 2012 F250 6.7 Diesel. I was looking at getting new 18 or 20 inch rims for it and was wondering what the largest tire I could fit on those without rubbing on the truck would be. I know there are lots of topics on this but I could not find anything that applied to me. Most topics were on stock wheels.
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I have a 2007 King Ranch F250 that had 18" rims on it. I just put a new set of 2008 KR 20" tires & rims on my truck and now the ABS light is on. Does increasing the tire/rim size mess with the ABS? If so how can I remedy this?
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I got an 03 f250 with a 10 inch lift on 40x14.50 tires on 20x10 fuel hostage wheels. They rub my springs pretty bad when trying to make even the slightest kind of tight turn and the sound they make when they rub is even worse than them actually rubbing. My question is should i stay with this tire and wheel setup and try to get some 6061 billet aluminum 2 inch spacers? (I'm not sure about going that route though because of what i heard about spacers) or go down to some 38s with a 20x14 wheel that hopefully would push the tire away from the hub like spacers would do. I'm leaning more towards going to 38s because of the rubbing and also because I feel they might look better on the 10 inch lift rather than the 40s but dont know whats the best thing to do.
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My '01 f250 7.3 has gotten hard to start. It seems to maybe be due to cooler weather, but not always. I have been told that there is some sort of valve in the fuel tank that could possibly cause this when the fuel gets around a 1/4 tank or so. But, it's doing it at any fuel level. But it doesn't do it all the time. I do notice it more in cooler weather. Anyway, when I try to crank it, I'll let the "wait to start" light go off and then wait a bit more. I'll turn it over and it almost as if the batteries are weak.
I'll stop and give it a few seconds and turn it again and it will normally start. But sometimes I'll do this 5 or 6 times and it will finally fire. But the more I have to try, it's like fuel builds in the cylinders and it smoke like a coal train for a minute or so. Almost like gas motor that has been flooded. But the smoke burns off and it runs like a top. I was thinking the batteries may be weak , but sometimes the starter will spin the motor with no trouble at all. I'm at a loss. Is it possible for fuel to drain from the system causing it to have to reprime itself? Here lately the smoking has me concerned even though it clears up.
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I own a 2011 f-250 superduty, and have been having a problem with the steering, it goes from normal to lost of assist. Real hard to steer and dangerous. Then it will go away for a month, then start again. Some one on this site told me to flush the system which I did and it was fine for a month. A friend at a local ford dealer told me they had contamination in the system and I had to replace pump, reservoir, and flush system again....
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I have a 1997 f-250 heavy duty with the 7.3 I have been having problems with very aggressive and hard shifting. While it is acting up the overdrive light on the shifter blinks. This problem goes away and it might be good for a month or so, But it always comes back. I have had it to a professional trans tech, He replaced a part on the side of the tranny. I thought it was fixed, But now it is acting up again.
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I have a 1999 f250 sd with the 7.3. I'm not sure what is going on with my pickup. When I turn to the right i can turn with one finger, but when I turn left i have to put some muscle into it. Power steering fluid is full. I raised the front end and it turns both ways easy. My ball joints feel fine, there is no tire shake when i have it off the ground. My tie rods feel fine also, nice and tight. I was thinking about replacing the steering sector to see if thats the issue but wanted to get a second opinion first.
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I got a f250 4x4 1999 super duty , I have 20" 10'rims , can I run a 35" 12.5 x 20" tires without rubbing
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I have a 2002 ford f250 with the 7.3l diesel. I recently installed a ts performance chip. On my pcm. And after i first tried all the different stages I didn't like how my transmission was shifting hard. So I contacted the manufacturer and he told me they could reprogram the chip for smoother shifting. So I removed the pcm and removed the chip. But when I went to reinstall the pcm I bent one of the pins on the pcm some how.
So I took it back out and straightened the pin with pliers . i reinstalled it back in the truck. Only to find when I reattached the battery cable I have no power to anything ignition ,horn, lights,Cigarette lighter etc. So my question is if the pcm is bad, or not contacting properly due to the pin being messed up. would that have anything to do with the lights and horn and all that? I suspect its the gem bsm or Vsm. Whichever one my truck has. But really not sure because everything worked fine just 20 min b4.
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When braking the truck shakes terribly, enough to toss a drink out of the cup holder almost. Sometimes there is a slight feeling in the peddle but not always. The shudder feels like it is timed with each revolution of the wheels.
It developed from a perfectly stopping truck over the course of maybe a month. I don't drive the truck that much either.
Things I have checked:
1, all u-joints, they all look and feel good, no play or slop in them
2, air pressure in all tires, even rotated them, no effect
3, brakes-front and back all looked good but I went ahead and replaced front pads and rotors, cleaned caliper pins, zero effect.
4, shudder exists whether in gear and slowing or in neutral, 2wd and 4wd
What the heck else is there to check? My first thought was, front brakes/warped rotors, but after pulling them apart there was so much life left on the rotors and pads and replacing all that with new did nothing! Could bad back brakes cause this much of a shudder? They look fine as well.
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On my 2008 f250 I can not turn the hubs without a set of pliers...does that mean I need new hubs....
What auto tranny do I have with the 5.4.. is it a six speed...
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I recently purchased a 00 F250 psd 4x4. Other than doing all of the fixes it needs to make it ride better I have been questioning the trucks "get up and go" and the EXTREMELY sensitive skinny pedal. Truck seems to pull very hard and puts out some black smoke under hard throttle but nothing like the really tuned trucks I have seen. But the skinny is so sensitive its hard to drive under 40mph in 3rd and once it gets up to 55 or so its real sharp getting on and off the throttle. Trans shifts great, TC locks and unlocks, truck runs awesome IMO but just a bit harsh. Is there a way to find out if it was tuned prior to me buying it other than inspecting for a chip, or is this the way they are and I just have to get used to it more...?
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I have a 2004 F250 5.4 gasser, 214K on it. It is my daily driver, and it gets around 6mpg. I feel like this is a lot less then it should get. However that's not the only problem. it wasn't always this bad, but now almost every time I start it, it cranks and cranks and cranks but wont start. I turn the key back, forward again, it turns over 2 or 3 times, and starts, but kind of spits and sputters at a low rpm before speeding up the rpms. I feel like these issues are linked, but its pretty annoying that the starting issue happens everyday. Its been doing this for about 3 years now and I feel like one day it will let me down. People start looking at me if I have to try to start it 2 or 3 times.
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My 2000 F250 4 x 4 just started being almost impossible to steer to right when stopped. To the left it is ok. I was on a trip and when I got where I was going noticed the steering very hard. I checked the fluid level and it was almost empty. I filled the reservoir and let it sit 4 days. I am back on the road now and it is still doing it. Stopped to left is easy to right almost impossible.
My brakes are good. I noticed a couple times when I had to slam on the brakes on the tirp the rear tires chirped. I don't tow anything with it, just a family vehicle with 408000 miles. The power steering pump was replaced a few years ago. Pump, gearbox, etc? I need to get this fixed as I have another trip coming up in a few days.
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