1999 F250 super duty w/ 5.4... My truck seems have issues keeping speed on the interstate like its not wanting to switch gears on time. Its auto by the way. Gotta little hesitation in the idle exhaust due that I have several leaks in my exhaust. Could that be the problem?
View 3 RepliesI have 03 f250 v10. just replaced the engine and got everything all connected and started it up and it idles great...the problem is that when you press the gas pedal it starts to drive but then it looses power and acts like its missing. cant get it to go 30 mph. While keeping it floored eventually it gets up to 2000 rpm and then starts to pick up speed.
View 14 RepliesHere is this wonderful 5.4 's issue now, sometimes it will idle rough, sometimes it wont. sometimes it feels like it wants to stall, other times not. if im driving about 30mph up a hill around 1700 rpm, the engine feels like a bucking horse, it will kinda want to produce the power, but cant seem to find it till the trans drops to a lower gear. With this engine power loss is unacceptable because it came out of the factory with no power, i cant afford to loose more.
there is no check engine light. its been doing this on and off for a week. i dont drive it much, may 15 miles a day. i thought maybe it was bad gas , i had it sitting for a month, but since then ran almost 2 tanks of gas through it. Seems to act the worst when driving it, then letting it idle for 5 mins, then drive it again, that's when its very noticeable. no smoke from exhaust, no mixing of oil and anti freeze, plugs are a year old, filter is new.
I have a 99 f250 sd with v10 that has no power. Will crank, idle and die sometimes. Getting codes p0351 - p0355. No power when driving.
View 11 RepliesHave a 99 F250 V10 was having issues with it going in limp mode took it to the shop they said number 1 cylinder running hot I had the head rebuild all new gaskets less than 10 miles truck shuts off pullover no antifreeze put antifreeze and water in Reservoir start back up look at Reservoir it's empty shut it off pour more water in Reservoir and it go straight down to empty.
View 6 RepliesThe 2003 F250 5.4 Superduty has no power and keeps stalling. If I floor the gas it just stalls. I've replaced the pcv valve and line, the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump, and cleaned the tank, changed out the gas, added Lucas, and it just won't run right. Desperate, and no codes are coming up...
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford F-250 5.4l the symptoms are when it's warm it has half power and it will stall at idle. What I have done with the truck is.
New cam phasers
new chain
new tensioners
new vct solenoids
new oil pump
new plugs
new ignition coils
new stock cam shafts
new rockers
new lash adjusters
new exhaust manifolds both sides
new muffler
oil change with the right oil
ran it with sea foam in the crankcase before oil change
new fuel pump module
new evap vent control
new abs speed sensor
I cleaned throttle body with brake cleaner ... Scanned it after a 15 min ride of having to use 2 feet to drive it. The engine codes that came up are p0022 iacv short to ground and p1000 readiness test not complete. I also got p1804 4 wheel drive high indicator circuit failure p1808 4 wheel drive low indicator circuit failure .... Not sure what else to try.
I bought the 2005 F250 6.0 Turbo Diesel with 67,000 miles on it last March. It has given me gave me absolutely no problems until now. In the last 2 weeks I have had it plugged in when it was below 32 degrees outside. Otherwise, I just remote started it every morning and let it run for 20 minutes before I left. In the last 2 weeks, I have noticed the same problem whether it is morning, afternoon, or evening and it happens at different times. I will be at a standstill at a stop light, stop sign, or parked in my driveway when this occurs. Sometimes, and like I said, "sometimes", it will hesitate when I give it throttle. It will quickly respond after maybe a second, but the hesitation is still there. It only does this on occasion!
I work for a Lucas Oil distributor, so in the winter I ran the "extreme diesel conditioner" through it with a tank of diesel about every other week. I also used the fuel-injector cleaner at every fill up. On "ONE" occasion, and like I said, "ONE" occasion, when it hesitated at a stoplight, I looked in the rear view mirror, and noticed a short burst of white smoke, and then it took off. It has not done that since. I took the EGR off and cleaned it and it seemed okay until 2 days later, then the same hesitation came back, but like I said, at times!
I replaced the air filter and since then I have done nothing. I am now being told to check the coolant level in the resevoir. When I un-screwed the cap the cap, there was pressure in there and the fluid was about 1/4 inch low from the line. I was also told to check the filter on top of the block, but I have not gotten that far. Ford says it is the EGR cooler system! I have "NO" check engine lights!
We have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
Purchased my first used Super Duty 2011 F250 6.2. Love the truck. This is my 3rd ford truck. I get home from work, so the truck is warm. Sit for 20 min, then leave to take the kids to their games. After turning onto the street then accelerating power is lost for 1-2 seconds, then the truck continues to accelerate. If I let off the pedal, then the truck will slow down, if I hold the pedal position of push down it does nothing. This is going to drive me crazy. Not sure if this is a TCM reprogram issue? It only does this on the initial take off. I want to start playing with my new truck, but want to fix this bug first.
View 5 RepliesGot a 99 V10 blowing a lot of oil out of the exhaust pipe, to the point where I could fog the neighborhood, cylinder number 10 had original spark plug dirt down in the hole know one wanted to clean it out so I did put new plug and coil now smokes a lot, also truck has 173559 miles, did a half diesel half used motor oil flush tonight, wanted to go for 15 minutes only made it to 14 to much smoke, will put fresh oil in tomorrow, what could be the problem, piston ring blow by, intake manifold leak, burning what I think is oil could be coolant, head gasket no bubbles in oil or antifreeze and antifreeze and or oil are not mixing. Is it easier to pull the heads off with pulling the motor which looks fairly easy or leave it in the truck.
View 2 RepliesI purchased a 2000 F250 7.3 4x4 (auto transmission) about 8 months ago. I've noticed recently that when I accelerate there is a slight hesitation like there is slack in the drive line. This does not happen when the truck is moving and I accelerate. There is not audible clunk and the hesitation is not in the motor.
I checked the u-joints and they all feel tight. There is a little slack in transfer case that allows me to turn the drive line slightly back and forth. Is this normal? Should I be planning on a transmission or transfer case rebuild soon?
Update: I was researching the leaf spring isolator pads (mine are warn out or missing) and it sounds like these can cause something similar to what I am experiencing. I am planning on pulling a 28' travel trailer from Colorado to Wisconsin next month and would like to avoid any issues if possible...... Obviously, I know ....
2 wks ago I was running down I95 at about 95-100 mph (basically floored) in a rush to get somewhere on time. Since then my truck has been running for crap. It threw the p0171 code when I checked it. When driving under normal conditions it pings a lot and my mpg is down about 3 mpg and has this hesitation when you get on it. Even when you accelerate at a normal rate it surges a little, it pings a lot and has a loss of power, about 30-40%. It feels really sluggish and doesnt want to pull and then you will feel it starting to pull a little harder then it starts to surge/hesitate a little again.
Truck has 147k on it. I was having a similar situation until I had the plugs replaced at 125k, so I figured the plugs shouldn't be the problem. So I replaced the fuel and air filters, cleaned the maf w/maf cleaner and Throttle body w/tb cleaner and replaced the pcv with a new one from ford. Still pings bad under load and still has the hesitation/surging and crappy fuel economy. Its running smoother but no fix yet. This is crazy trying to pinpoint this issue. The detonating isnt crappy gas because I used super and it still detonates quite a bit.
Its a 06' F250 5.4 3V XLT Lariat SC FX4....
About to do the exhaust manifold gaskets on my 03 f250.
View 3 Replies2001 F250 5.4L - I recently had my muffler changed and the pipe flange on the tailpipe up by the exhaust manifold welded back on. I haven't driven my truck much this past summer so when I took it in to get the muffler fixed the front caliper got temporarily stuck like it tends to do. It eventually freed up but in the meantime I noticed a hot oil-like smell coming from my truck from time to time. I chalked it up to either the new muffler or maybe it just smelled hot and it was instead the front brake caliper still being stuck. One day I'm driving down the interstate and I start uphill. I noticed smoke behind me and pulled over. The brake was not overheating so I got underneath the truck.
The smoke was rolling off of the exhaust pipe all the way down it all the way up near the manifold but mostly around the muffler. The smoke quickly went away while I was under the truck. I noticed it doing this only while the engine is under a load like going uphill. Just driving around town nothing is noticeable. When it does smoke I lose power. Once I slow down for awhile and then gradually speed back up things seem okay. I checked the oil.
Normally I don't lose a drop but this time I was a quart low but the oil on the stick was clean. It's been awhile since I had my oil changed but very little mileage on this change (my truck has sat awhile). My truck doesn't leave a drop of oil under it when it sits. From what I read you can remove the radiator cap and start the truck to see if it's a blown head gasket. At least that one of the things I can check easily without actually taking the plugs out even though the oil looks clean. The radiator has not lost any fluid. The transmission fluid is also good. It's been doing this for about 3 weeks.
I still drive it to and from work (about 15 miles round trip) everyday but I take it easy on the acceleration and stay on city streets. I looked into the EGR system online for my truck and instead found an EVAP purge solenoid/valve in its place on the passenger side. I don't have any service lights on the dash. I went to Autozone and had them scan it but nothing came up. I read somewhere that either the purge solenoid assembly or EGR (I can't remember) can burn up the board if it goes bad resulting in no code showing up.
I recently changed a vacuum valve out that went bad that controlled the vacuum chamber used to operate the hubs on the 4WD. The 4WD is now operational again. Assuming the head gasket is not blown, what to check for next?
is there a set of headers for my 2008 f250 5.4 rwd that will install somewhat easily without me throwing tools across the garage? I see a lot more options for the older trucks. I have a pretty annoying exhaust manifold leak and I figure I might as well throw some headers on if im gonna be in there. I really want to go for sound rather than power. I think I saw a set by flowmaster that looked decent.
View 6 RepliesMy question is pretty simple: on my 2016 F250 psd 6.7 I am towing my trailer, using tow/haul mode and I have the engine exhaust brake button pushed.
Suppose I begin going down a long, downhill grade and I want to hold, say 55 mph. How do I actually activate the engine exhaust brake (like they show in this Ford video) to hold me at that speed all the way down?
I tried working slowly up to my desired speed and then tapping the brakes a few times for it to kick in, but it didn't hold me. I also tried tapping and then riding the brakes for 2-4 secs to see if it would kick in, but it did not. To be clear: I *am* in Tow/Haul mode and the engine exhaust brake icons are both lit up in the dash.
2003 6L 250 SD. Always smells of exhaust on the cabin. If there is snow it gets much worse.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2013 F250 with a 6.2 L. While driving the vehicle the exhaust sounds nice and throaty. When I put the truck in neutral and rev it, it's quiet, you can barely hear it. Is this normal?
View 3 Replies99 F-250 SD 6.8 had an issue with it while moving from Del to Phx, Az. Found collapsed air cleaner element. It looked like someone stepped on it. I replaced it as well as the MAF. This fixed the issue. This was 350 miles into the trip. The truck seemed to be down on power as it didn't want to pull my trailer up any type of grade except with OD off. Around 2K miles into the trip in developed a random misfire with no codes. I am at my final destination and the misfire is worse. I am not showing any codes at all or pending either. It is a bit toasty outside to be out there diagnosing issues, and I won't start changing parts randomly either. I have a NGS scan tool with the proper cards.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 F250 Torqshift trans, 155,000 miles. It has had a slight hesitation when trans is engaged for about 4 years, not a problem the dealer has no fix they said.
Now today for the first time I had a tow haul light come on while driving on the freeway. It would not go into overdrive and the light keep blinking. Later in the day, I let it cool down and it drove fine to the store about 2 miles. When I got in to drive home it had tow haul light go blinking and check engine light came on this time.
I hooked up my code reader and it's giving codes: P0720, P0751 and P0766.
Should I take it to the Ford dealer, a Transmission shop or have a friend who worked at Ford Dealer do the Work? I see that some people have changed out the TFT sensor and corrected the problem. While the pan is down should I just have all the shift solenoid sensors changed?