was going to do a brake job on my f250 light duty and the rotors won't come off. At first I thought they were rusted on but after looking at them it looks like the studs are attached to the rotor. Need to confirm this because the new rotors I got don't have the hub attached. Don't know if it's the wrong part or what?
View 9 RepliesBrake issues on 2005 F250. About 3 years ago during vehicle inspection the garage stated I need all for rotors on my F250. I had @40,000 miles at the time. Garage said rotors are a onetime use, no recutting them. So I got all new rotors. Prior to then I never even felt a wobble indicating they were warped. Anyhow now with 15,000 miles on them I have a huge wobble when I get on the brakes and it's 5x pronounced when pulling a trailer. I assume more warped rotors. If so, why? I pull a camper or car trailer maybe 7-10 times a year.
Now currently I am assuming its warped rotors because I have not had it "professionally" checked. I did have one occasion last August pulling the camper where I smelled the brakes being hot. The pedal got soft. After cooling it seemed ok and I flushed the old fluid and put in new. I have about 4100 miles since then and the warped feel just started about a month ago. I hate the thought of new rotors as I paid for new Ford rotors 3 years ago. Didn't want the Chinese crap from the box stores. I can't imagine how these would warp this bad after less than 15,000 miles, they are massive. Why they would so quickly?
As the title states I just finished putting pads and rotors on the front of my 04' f250. I have had a terrible shutter almost a bouncing effect while braking over the last week or so, finally got around to doing the work and still no satisfaction! My question is where to go next? Wheel bearings and tires are good, I do get a pretty good wobble/vibration in the pedal while braking. Should I be looking at a brake booster or master cylinder? Or is it possible it's a caliper? Truck goes down the road fine until and brake is applied.
View 4 RepliesProblem started with the front end shaking a little bit when braking like the rotors needed turning. Then the brakes began to intermittently hum when stopping. Then my ABS light came on. Put the truck up on the stands and disassembled the brakes on both sides. The ABS sensor was chewed up on the driver side. The less than year old hub felt sloppy so I changed it. Put everything back together.
New hub came with new ABS sensor. Went for a test drive ABS light is gone and I no longer shake or experience the hum when applying the brakes. However now when I go to stop right before I come to a complete stop the driver side (new hub/spindle side) I hear what sounds like the grade school class clown making a fart sound with his mouth, and the truck pulls to the driver side. Is the ABS system malfunctioning or is this a caliper issue? Calipers look like they are OEM.
99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
I use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
View 14 RepliesI have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems I was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly. Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles?
Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If I let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on. It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. The wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
So a few week back I noticed my brakes were getting soft. Soft meaning that when braking for any distance, I would hear a kind of "pressure release, squeaking" sound coming from the pedal, and the pedal would sometimes go to the floor and the ABS would kick in. Let me tell ya, its a pretty crappy feeling when your brakes aren't doing what their supposed to! So, I replaced the pads all the way around, replaced the master cylinder (bench primed). I took it out for a drive, and it did the same thing. So thinking maybe the fluid is bad, I flushed new fluid through the lines. Took it for a drive, and it felt good right away, the pedal firmed up a bit, and then it did did it again.
Just so I give as much info as possible, the rotors are looking pretty rough and going to be replaced soon.
So, my question[s] are; What is the next step in identifying the problem? Is there a chance the new master cylinder is bad? Could worn rotors cause the caliper to max out and not apply enough pressure? Even though the calipers seemed fine while replacing the pads, could one or more be bad? If so, how do I know?
I believe my brakes have a problem.
Lately, I can stomp on my brakes @ 50 mph and they won't trigger the abs or come close to skidding the tires. The peddle goes to the floor if I push hard enough and the truck doesn't seem to stop fast like it used to.
I'm wondering if there is an issue I should be focusing on, like swelling brake lines or some issue you may know of. I'll try bleeding the brakes this coming weekend, but i think its going to be a bad brake line or something.
I don't know if this is even a problem or not. Do the front brakes get hot on the one ton dualy? I wouldn't have even noticed it except when I went to the car wash, when I sprayed water on the tires and rims to wash them, I noticed steam coming off the front brakes. Think I have a problem or not? I can put it into "drive" and it rolls freely. It doesn't feel like anything is sticking.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1992 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4 My brakes wont hold pressure I replaced master cylinder and calipers had the system pressure bled. I don't have any fluid lose and vacuum is good. Can the proportioning valve let fluid bypass, or the rear anti-lock braking system valve let fluid to bypass.
View 14 Replies2003 F250 V10 4x4. I have a rear brake sticking so I assume I have to replace the calipers. Which brand should I go with?
View 2 RepliesI have a pedal pulsation, steering wheel shimmy, and pull to the right when the brakes are applied in my truck. It is a 2009 F250 4x4 gas V8. I just replaced the pads, rotors, and calipers on the front and that's when the problem started. It definitely gets worse with speed too. I replaced the calipers because the right one had seized up and the left one looked to be on the way. There are no odd noises and the wheel bearing doesn't feel like there is any play in it. What this could be?
View 1 Replies2004 F250, I am getting this howling noise when applying the brakes. It sounds like it is from the left front and is more prevalent when applying the brakes down an incline (off ramp, etc) I pulled the wheels off and the pads were probably 50-60% worn. I bought some new pads and installed them and I still get the same noise. I didn't buy the cheap pads, nor the most expensive either. Either way, I can't figure it out. Would I need new rotors? I would think I would have some vibration if the rotors were warped. My other thought was the caliper, but when I replaced the pads it compressed fine and I lubed the slide rails. Not sure what to do at this point. The truck has 94,000 miles on it, FX4, Lariat, Crew Cab, and it has the 5.4L in it.
View 2 RepliesTook truck out for a ride and stopped for gas. I smelled Brakes and upon inspection found the left rear brake pads were not releasing. Any take on what could be holding it? 2008 F-250.
View 10 RepliesI've replaced the brakes that weren't in that bad of shape anyways and even replaced one of the rotors as it was under federal regulations. I've even put the brake squeak goop on the back of the pads and it keeps squeaking and squeaking and it's driving me insane. Am i missing something here? I don't here any other super duty's squeaking on the road.
View 1 RepliesTruck pulls to the left while braking, pretty bad. So, pulled the front right wheel off thinking the pins are stuck again as last year. Bottom pin was fine, top pin pretty gummed up but not froze so I cleaned it up good, used thin layer of the good stuff, put back together and test drove........same thing. Pulls left upon braking just as bad as before. Caliper pistons seemed fine, didn't take much to compress them either.
View 8 RepliesOn the surface, the F-250/350 seems to have great brakes: big rotors, vented front and rear, and dual-piston calipers front and rear. But, I have two problems:
One is the annoying 'grunt' the brakes make every time you change from Park to Drive, or Park to Reverse, or Drive to Reverse. Its as if under normal brake pressure, the brakes cannot hold the truck from moving against the torque convertor engaging. It's not just my truck, I've heard older SD's with the 5.4L or diesel do this too. If you push the pedal really hard, it won't grunt.
The second problem I think is the root of the first: mushy brakes. Maybe I'm just used to driving european cars with firm brakes, but every time I apply my truck's brakes, it feels like I need to bleed the system! The truck does slow pretty well, and I realize it's heavy, but how can the pedal feel be improved? Maybe replacing the rubber sections with braided stainless?
Lastly, the truck has a 'hill-hold' feature which is retarded in an automatic transmission. My problem with it, is that sometimes it sticks on...engage drive, the truck won't move...a second later its like something gets unstuck and the truck kind of lurches forward.
I took delivery last week of a new 2012 F250 with a 6.7 Power Stroke Diesel. This is my third F250 with a Power Stroke Diesel. My first one was a 1997 w/7.3 PSD and my last one was 2001 w/7.3 PSD which I traded in for the 2012.
Now for my problem. The brakes seem spongy to me. When I am applying the brakes I get what seems like a longer than normal pedal travel (to me anyway) and soft. The braking isn't as good as my last two F250's. If I pump the brakes, the brake pedal firms up and the braking really improves. I have not contacted my dealer yet.
I recently took delivery of a new 2012 F250. It was a cab chassis, we had a utility bed and lift gate installed from the upfitter along with heavy rear springs. From day one the truck would pull left when the brakes were applied. The brake pedal also feels mushy, not firm. It will firm up when I pump it. I could also smell burning around the left front of the truck when I would get out of the cab. Hot brake smell. Took it to the dealer with only 400 miles on it and they replaced the front pads and turned the rotors, and gave it back. In relatively few miles the problem was right back again.
Took it back to the same dealer last week with 1200 miles on it now. This time they say they replaced the rotors. I went and picked it up it this morning. Within 5 miles drive of the dealership I can tell the brakes are still bad. Now, it will kind of do a "head fake" when the brakes are applied, pulling slightly left or right, before deciding which way it wants to pull. It will pull right or left now during firm braking. And the brakes were stinking by the time I had it back to them. I turned around and took it right back to them again. Brand new F250?
I have had the truck just under a year. It has 104k on it i only drive it on weekends. Last weekend going to Home Depot about 15 miles got out and could smell brakes burning. Felt the wheels and the right rear was very hot. Got back home no smell but still hot not as hot as earlier. Pulled the wheel off it looks as if the pads and calipers are fairly new paint is still on them caliper is a TRW. The pads were stuck in the carrier even the stainless clip ends look rusted.
Cleaned it all up both sides lubed the pad carrier with pin lube. Pushed the calipers back in some both sides went in easy. The right rotor has definitley been hot. Put it all back together and went for a test drive. Came back no problems checked the temperature with a laser type heat thermometer all wheels were around 140 f. Went out yesterday morning stopped and could smell the brakes again. Drove it back home and the right rear was 300 f. others 150 to 160 f.
Jacked it up put it in neutral and the you can spin the wheels by hand. Started the truck had the wife get in put it in drive wheels turning applied the brakes they stopped let go they turn freely again tried the parking brake it works fine also. So do I buy new calipers and brakes or maybe is the wheel bearing going bad causing the brakes to heat up?ied.