I recently purchased a 1999 6.8L. Runs great when cold but after warming up the idle gets rough. Truck has new plugs and coil packs and fuel filter. Checked the fuel pressure and the idle is right at 30 psi. I read that the good pressure range is 30 to 45 psi. Is 30 psi acceptable or should I replace fuel pump or regulator? Any next step to solving my idle woes.
View 3 RepliesI am new to the v10 I only ever owned 7.3 this is my father truck it's a 99 with 200k on it. The problem is it will idle fine when cold but when it is warned up very ruff idle no codes and when I go back at the end of this week I will check the O2 sensor with AE but I really don't know much about it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 f250 5.4l 2v with 165000. just two weeks ago i went to start up the truck on a job site to take lunch and it was running really rough. I talked with a mechanic at my shop and he said that it sounded like the aic or that i needed plugs. I went and bought aic and plugs and installed them all in one day. I unhooked the battery before i did any work and have changed the coil packs about 3-4 months ago when it was jerking at highway speeds. I am at a loss.
Read so much on the site about could be this or that and cant afford to through money at it like the govt does. I replaced the ait(air intake temp sensor) and the ect(engine coolant sensor) after i got a code from oreillys that said p0113 which is high input on it. I have read it can be so many things and it seems to be running rich because i am getting about half of mileage i was getting before problem started. i need a fix soon as i must drive the truck to work everyday which is a 52 mile trip total.
I have an 02 f250 V10 with a rough idle (90K Miles). It's not horrible but it's obviously not running perfect. Everything seems ok when I am up and driving, especially at freeway speeds. I recently noticed that if the truck is in park and I run the RPM's to 1500 or 2K and quickly let off the gas it will die. It never throws any codes. So far I have replaced the IAC Valve, fuel filter, O2 Sensors, PCV valve, cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the air filter. Plugs and boots were replaced 5K miles ago. Fuel trim levels on both banks are running around -3.1 to positive 3.5 based on what the computer is telling me. Also according to the computer the vacuum sits steady around 25 at idle (+ or - .2). I don't have a manual vacuum gauge, just relying on the computer. I've also gone around to every plug and disconnected both the injector wire and the COP wire and they all seem to equally affect the idle as well as the fuel trim levels.
View 11 RepliesThe 2003 F250 5.4 Superduty has no power and keeps stalling. If I floor the gas it just stalls. I've replaced the pcv valve and line, the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump, and cleaned the tank, changed out the gas, added Lucas, and it just won't run right. Desperate, and no codes are coming up...
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 CCSB Lariat 4x4 with the Triton V10, I'm up to 232,000 miles so far and fairly happy with the old girl. Just this weekend, I noticed some hesitation when at idle and even more rough running when under slight load. The misfire/hesitation is worst when going up a slight hill, when the truck is accelerating at low RPMs.
I am getting zero trouble codes or freeze frame conditions on my scanner. What should be my order of diagnosis? Vacuum test at line from PCV to TB, COP test? EGR inspection? Plug inspection? Also, how do you test a coil if resistance is not a reliable method?
I have a 2007 F250 4X4 6.0 diesel. When first started it idles extremely rough to a point it sounds like a old gas engine missing. But after it warms up for about 15 minutes it runs and idles like a new truck. I'm thinking it's the injectors if so is this something I can change/clean ....
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 5.4L, 118,000miles...engine seems to idle somewhat rough but tach doesn't seem to move off 1000rpm & when giving slight acceleration seems to act like its missing, shaking . But under acceleration moderate or high purrs like a kitten! Always starts good , few cranks. Any hints on the what issue might be?
View 2 RepliesI have an 2003 F250 7.3 Diesel 4wd. Yesterday I knew I was low on fuel but I don't think I ran out of diesel. My gauge was above the "E". 50 miles left on my overhead readout, but you never know. All of a sudden the truck misfires and is running very rough before it dies on me. I get it towed home.
Thinking that it possible I ran out of fuel and screwed up my fuel pump, I bought a new fuel pump and fuel filter, installed them and I have the same symptoms. I am guessing I lost my prime, who knows. I have 180,000 miles on it and haven't ever had engine problems.
My 2008 F250 Super Duty is riding very, very rough. I put in new heavy duty Bilstien shocks 2 or 3 years ago, and I would think they would last longer than this.
Are they any other causes I can look at to see what is causing this truck to ride rough?
I bought it and changed the fuel filter and it was dirty. Then ran a tank of gas with seafoam and then with lucas fuel injector cleaner. Still nothing. It idles like its missing and as long as you are light on the pedal it revs up fine but if you're heavy on the throttle its. Its has no codes that's why I haven't replaced the coil packs and plugs but they have been ordered. I just thought there would be an engine code if any of the coils or plugs were bad. Looked for a vacuum leak but couldn't find any. The donut gasket on the pass side is bad would that cause it to run shifty with no code.
View 2 RepliesMy F53 motorhome has a rough idle and hard misfire but is not setting any codes. I've put new plugs in it and not change.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 F250, SuperCab, 5.4 triton, 100,000 miles. It's been a great truck - got it at 63,000 miles. Once engine warms up, it has rough idle, and shift rough. I can give it gas to RPMs up and it smooths out some but is low on power. If this was my 76 F150, I would guess the vacuum hose off the intake manifold to the transmission came loose.
View 6 RepliesI've got a 2003 6.0 that's got a rough idle and low power situation. Doesn't matter hot or cold it has a hard start issue but when it finally starts it has a rough idle, sometimes it has low power on take off but not always. FICM has 48.8 volts coming out, exhaust just had a new y-pipe (had a cracked bellow) absolutely no smoke coming out. When I drive it hard it's like a rocket no rough spots just did oil with filters and fuel filters, blue spring upgrade, and cleaned out the turbo.
View 2 RepliesV-10 running rough at idle, chugging. a problem has developed with my 2004 E-350 V- 10 after having a new fuel filter installed and the induction service done . Picked it up from a local shop and it was running rough after bringing it in when running great! I figured maybe it fouled a plug or something so I drove it home but it didn't improve so I brought it back and had new plugs installed. It is still running rough and wanting to almost stall when accelerating from a stop and the shop cant figure it out , not showing any codes.
I'm thinking maybe they caused some type of vacuum leak that is so far undetected. The killer is it came to the shop running great !!
No other problems with the vehicle, I drive it every day and have owned since new. 278,000 on it now and it has been the best vehicle I have ever owned.
Last night, I left it running while unloading a trailer and come back to notice it was idling abnormal. I jumped in it and tried to move it and there was a noticeable loss of power. I unhooked the trailer and tried to get it home. I only made it 1/2 mile down the road when it started spitting and sputtering (surging ever now and then) to a level that it died completely. I was able to start it back and get it out of the road but had to be pulled into a drive. It got to a point it wouldn't start back at all.
Today it started up however still had a rough idle and really has no power to speak of. The more I messed with it the less power it seem to have.
I have searched the forums and tried these things:
1) Checked the oil and noticed it was on the low end of the operating range. I put some in it to put it back to normal.
2) Disconnected the ICP
3) Changed the crankshaft position sensor
4) I dumped the fuel bowl after it completely died (in case it had any water in the fuel bowl).
The fuel filter was just changed 2 weeks ago. The fuel pump seems to be operating correctly (or it at least refilled the bowl) and started again with a very rough idle.
It doesn't have a engine light on nor do I have anything to read any codes it may be showing.
2004 F250 V10, runs good until it warms up whether it's hot or cold outside. While on freeway, it really shakes while cruising, but of you get in the gas enough for a kick down, seems to be pretty smooth. I've changed the coils, and 9 plugs (one wouldn't budge, but the others I took out looked fine) to no effect. Where else should I look? Also, no CEL, and no codes, which seems odd as bad as it feels...
View 11 RepliesSo, my truck runs really rough when I am @1500 RPM and lightly feather the gas. I have replaced all coils and plugs. Used dielectric grease. Replaced air filter, replaced ICU, changed transmission fluid. The thing still "shudders" ... 2004 f250 5.4 ....
View 14 RepliesI just bought this 99 f250 7.3 Powerstroke last week.. drove it all week fine, I car pool with a family member to work and asked his girlfriend to plug my truck in for me, well she didn't and it had stalled on the way home one morning but started up after cranking a few times i thought nothing of it. Drove it a little bit that day and it was fine, while I let it idle in my drive way as I prepared to go work it started running really rough then died. It took a long time to start again..now it's happening all the time. I changed the fuel filter and someones telling me there's air in the lines..
View 5 Replies2008 F250 5.4L 150k. My truck has been driving pretty rough in low gears, rough idle, and today the check engine light came on then getting on the interstate the light started blinking. I ran the code it came back 0307,300,308,300. After doing some research on here, I've come to the conclusion to change out the coils on 7 & 8. Questions are, should I change plugs as well? And how important is it to keep all the boots (of all 8) the same color (brown or black)? And should I expect to change all the rest soon?
View 1 RepliesThis is my first diesel but my 4th Ford truck. The truck currently has 4000 miles on it. My first incident started at 500 miles when my windshield gasket or lack/loss of silicone on the upper gasket decided to go. This caused a tornado in my cab at 6 am blowing coffee out of my cup and literally atomizing it all over myself pretty much LMFAO. It sounded like a helicopter attack at 40mph when it went. Ended up being towed to the dealer for repair. At around 2k miles the truck started too stink, like exhaust and coolant maybe. I'm thinking it's the DEF or the left overs from a regen cycle (newbie). At 4K miles, it's getting worse. The cab almost feels like deicing in the plane on the runway, nothing but fumes. It literally blows in through my HVAC vents straight into the cab. I'm glad I own the company because I'd be afraid of getting a drug test when I got too work. Instant red eyes. It is not as bad while driving but starts up again at red lights etc. It's a handful of times a week it does this. Things I've checked, water separator, 0 water in diesel. I've tried different gas stations and different DEF brands. Nothing makes it better or worse. I've read that I'm not alone, God speeds too us skunk trucks.
View 14 Replies