I just got a 99 F250 PSD, it had not been in 4wd in a while, now the hubs won't unlock.
My 01 F250 seemed to have strictly manual hubs. Turn right to lock, left to unlock. They may have been aftermarket, but on by the PO. Do I need to put some new Warns on the 99? Or can I lube then up and get them functional.
Brings back memories of my many projects from back in the day. Anyway, my uncle has this f250. He said 4x4 wouldn't automatically lock the hubs in. I tested the vacuum pulse valve on the fender and changed it out. Now the hubs will lock in when you turn the light on the dash but it will not unlock the hubs unless you go outside and manually turn the hubs to engage then back to auto. Only then will the front end be unlocked. I notice small puffs of air blowing back from behind the hub themselves so I was thinking it's time to reseal the vacuum portion of the hubs.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 F250 with 154000km (96000 miles) that we bought last week. When I was looking it over during the purchase I noticed the front axle didn't lockup in "auto", in manual lock it seemed fine so I figured vacuum leak or something like that. Yesterday morning I was in the yard and got a little hung up in snow drifts so just got out, locked the hubs and switched to 4x4 and I think the front end didn't engage at all.
So later on I had it in the shop installing the two way radio and decided to check the front end out a little more thoroughly. Vacuum lines seem fine, hubs turn fine but I notice the axle shafts both move up and down almost a quarter inch, that seems excessively loose to me. I've been doing some research on the internet and it appears the front hubs are serviced as a unit, also some information seems to point to needle bearings within the actual locking hub mechanism itself?
So the questions:
1. Does that front axle shaft seem excessive? What are the specs?
2. Can I replace bearings and seals only or do these units come only as assemblies? Inner hub, outer hub units? Wheel bearings seem fine.
3. With that much play is there a chance the outer axle shafts are worn also?
On my 2008 f250 I can not turn the hubs without a set of pliers...does that mean I need new hubs....
What auto tranny do I have with the 5.4.. is it a six speed...
Okay this is what I got; I recently purchased high mileage 2004 F250 Super Duty short box super cab 5.4 liter. Came with manual 4x4 handle on the floor so no 4 wheel on the fly and this eliminates the vacuum for the auto hubs so this will not be part of the problem. When engaging the hubs and ONLY when engaged the driver side hub grinds. The 4 wheel drive works but it sounds like its ready to grind itself into oblivion. I did pull the hub and the grinding was gone, I happen to have a spare hub that is good and the grinding returned.
I have jacked it up and made sure I have no play in the wheel itself and the axle knuckle on the axle shaft. Some say remove the front drive shaft? Or turn the wheels all the way in one direction engage the hubs and check for binding? I will do this in the morning, but what does that confirm if it not the hub. Could it be the passenger side echoing across? On my 99 Super duty I kept hearing moaning coming from up front like the breaks were shot and if you stuck your head out the window it was the back echoing to make it sound like the front.
I have a strange thing going on with my hubs i think. I have a 2000 f250 7.3 4x4 that I just purchased. Lettering on hubs were worn out as far as labeled locked or unlocked so I tried to turn the axel to see what position they were in. Drivers side spun freely but passenger side did not. Both hubs were counter clockwise and turning it to lock didn't change a thing.
Figured it was a bad hub so I jacked the front drivers side up. Spun tire with both hubs unlocked and axle didn't spin. Locked hub on drivers side and axle spun. Indicating the passenger side was unlocked. Then I locked passenger side and wheel would not turn. Ok. That seems right.
Jacked up passenger side front tire with drivers side on ground and axle spins no matter if its locked or unlocked. So does this indicate the hub is good and I should look at something else or could it still be the hub. Axle spins all the time and I don't want to wear anything out.
2001 F-250 7.3. The auto lock hubs are not working on the truck lock hubs in and all works fine. First thought is the vacuum system has a leak or something of the sort. Had truck at the shop they are telling me the GEM module controls the vacuum to engage the auto hubs and the signal is not coming from the GEM and it need to be replaced. It was the GEM causing the problem.
View 6 RepliesAbout a month ago I bought a 2004 F-250 160xxx from a reputable Ford dealer here in town. The dealer performed a safety and emissions inspection, and spent about a grand on other repairs, as a condition of my purchase. Today I had it in the shop for an instrument cluster issue (at a different Ford dealer, closer to my house), and was told the vacuum lines were all messed up. Their write up is below:
"Check 4x4 operation. Transfer case shifts to 4x4 and 4x4 low. Front hubs do not engage automatically. Check vacuum at the hubs. No vacuum. Check the vacuum at the solenoid. No vacuum. Perform visual of the engine vacuum lines. There is no vacuum to the reservoir. Vacuum line is routed wrong from the fuel pressure regulator to the vapor management valve. There is other vacuum concerns. All of the vacuum line routing needs to be inspected and corrected."
The service rep told me it is questionable whether the 4x4 ever worked, although during the few weeks I've owned it, I could hear gears or other mechanical parts making noise which seemed to me to be in response to me turning the 4x4 electronic switch. She also said there was a vacuum line dangling loose with a screw in the end of it.
Before I contact the dealer where I bought the truck, I am planning my going-in position. But I wanted to get a sense of a) how serious of a problem this might be? and b) how reasonable it is that the dealer didn't catch this issue before I bought the truck while they were in their fixing other things?
The dealer who sold me the truck made it very clear that the sale was as-is, and I took it to my mechanic prior to purchase, though unfortunately he only had time for a cursory look at the engine. Obviously he didn't look closely enough to find this issue.
I'm not sure if I should ask the dealer who sold it to me to fix it, or ask them to allow me to return it, or sell it back to them, or if I should eat the cost of fixing it. How wrong would it be to try to trade it in for something else?
My manual hubs on my 2006 f250 have become very hard to rotate so I would like to replace them. I saw that bronco graveyard has Warn hubs for a Dana 60 front axle. Is this what I need? My door sticker with the axle code is illegible, and I want to make sure I get the right hubs.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 F250 4x4 and the ESOF switch not engaging hubs, currently I have no 4x4 lights coming on in the cluster when i turn the switch. I am not experiencing any of the vaccum symptoms that most people are suggesting. I When I turn the switch i also do not hear any relays clicking. Relays have been tested, and i waited for the 45 second transfer delay that the manual mentions. ESOF switch has power, and is working properly (I know because I bought a new one in attempt to fix the problem) Basically I have no responses from any of my 4x4 indicators or parts.
View 14 RepliesI recently picked up a '99 F250 Super Duty with the 6.8L V10 for a song.
The 4 wheel drive hubs are not working with the vacuum. If I use the manual lock on the hubs all is well. I ordered the Innova 31703 CarScan OBD2 + OBD1/ABS/SRS Scan Tool. It says it does Trans codes. I am hoping it will cover the 4 wheel drive too.
Maybe related, the heat is always on. Meaning I feel heat at my feet when the temp dial is cold and fan is off. I can't find the heater control valve to check the vacuum line.
I have a 2000 f250 CCSB 4x4 with the ESOF auto hubs. The auto hubs won't engage automatically. They work fine manually. The transfer case is engaging and correct lights are coming on. There is a little bit of vacuum coming from the vacuum switch but it doesn't seem like much to me. All the dash HVAC controls work fine though. I Lubed and cleaned inside the hubs according to Guzzles directions.
While torn down, I blew through the vacuum port on the outside of the hub and there was little to no restriction. I don't think there is enough vacuum to pull the hubs, but is that possible if all the dash controls work fine? What pressure should it take to engage them? My next step is to pick up a vacuum pump and see if I can engage them with it.
I have a 2013 F250 which has both the Manual and auto locking hub feature. I tried to plow my driveway this morning and after making one pass I put the truck in reverse and could not back up my steep driveway. The truck is showing locked in 4x4 on the dash, the 4x4 control is in high lock but the front wheels will not turn. It has been very cold here lately (-30) and I'm wondering if the vacuum lines for the auto locking hubs have frozen. I have switched the control out of 4x4 and back in several times, and it does lock in again, but as soon as I put the truck into reverse, they unlock again. The hubs are covered with ice and snow right now so I have not yet tried to manually lock them.
View 14 RepliesWe got a ton of snow dumped on us today and for some reason my 4WD has decided not to work this year. I have a 2000 F250 4WD Triton V10. The hubs click into the lock position and the dial on the dash lights up 4x4 but I am definitively not engaging into 4WD. I'm pissed because this is specifically the reason i bought a 4WD and it's failing me. I can't find a fuse panel diagram to save my life however all the fuses in the interior of truck look to be fine.
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased a 2003 F-250. The door locks don't work properly, the passenger side will lock the entire truck all 4 door locks actually lock. The unlock on the passenger side does not work and neither does the entire switch in the driver side. I attempted to switch the actual switches from the driver to passenger side thinking that it could be a switch that is broken.
After doing that still only the passenger side would lock and the rest of lock unlock buttons did nothing. I have checked all the fuses in my truck and actually took the door panels off today thinking I might find an obvious problem. I know the actuators are a common problem but because all the locks lock in the vehicle I was thinking it might be something else.
Just started a job with a company that has F250 super duty service vehicles and I am puzzled. All the answers I find don't seem to apply to this vehicle. With a full front seat and the big center console it kinda sucks to have to reach over or walk around to manual lock passenger door 10 times a day. I do NOT have power door lock buttons, number pad on handle, or any type of keyless remote. It seems I only have the safety feature lock/unlock at start up and cutoff. So is there anyway to make it not unlock passenger door when I turn ignition off? I even tried pulling fuse 17 that is marked as lock motors thinking that was related with no success. The dash display doesn't have the option to disable as listed in the manual as one of the 4 ways to turn it off. And for reference it does not behave the way the manual says about autolocking at 12mph. Its instant lock on key turn on and instant unlock both doors on key off.
View 9 RepliesIts a 2016 F-250, 6.2L gas truck with the electronic shift on the fly transfer case.
I have put right at 22,000 miles on it like this, frequently at 70-80 mph.
What are the odds I have damaged it and is there anything I should do now that I discovered it - other than put them both in "AUTO".
Truck has been to the dealer twice and not once was this noticed. They blamed the squealing on the brakes which I knew it wasn't.
Back in March while still plowing, my auto locking hubs wouldn't stay engaged. After talking to the local Ford service shop they told me that it was moisture in the vaccum lines and that it had frozen. They told me to manually lock the hubs and bring it in to be repaired when I had time. I made a appointment in the middle of May and finally got it in last week. Now the hubs are seized in the locked position and they will not warranty the work or parts because they say it was caused by the salt from our roads. Does this sound right?
View 5 RepliesI've read many posts about ESOF and fault vacuum lines and how that will prevent 4x4 from engaging. I experienced a different problem this past weekend. Here's the situation...
Was about 1.5hr drive up to the mountains. Outside temp when we left the house: 10F. Outside temp when we arrived at destination: 9F. Quite a bit of road grime on the way up from sand, slush, and that magnesium chloride (or whatever they hell they put on the roads in an attempt to keep it from freezing). 4x4 worked fine on the way up. 4x4 light on dash was on, and I KNOW I could not have climbed the snow-covered forest roads without being in 4x4. Also, I could hear and feel the front hubs turning.
On the way home, once I got to where the roads were sufficiently ice free, I turned the dial on the dash back to 2WD. 4x4 light goes out. But I can hear and feel the front hubs are still turning. Toggled the switch back and forth a few times. 4x4 light would come and go with the toggled switch. But the hubs didn't disengage.
When I got back into town (outside temp now about 5), we stopped at a red light and I toggled the switch again. This time, the hubs disengaged. Is this a sign of bad vacuum? Or more an indication of faulty hubs??
My hubs will not lock when put into 4x4. I disconnected all lines from the solenoid to both hubs and tested them for leaks... All good there. I put a gauge on the lines at both hubs one at a time while the other is still connected and get no reading when switched into 4x4. I checked for vacuum right out of the solenoid, and I get 2inHg when switched into 4x.
The vacuum pump kicks on every time I start the truck, even if I just shut it off and re-start right away. There is no delay when switching my ac/heater controls to different settings or vent locations. So I know there is vacuum. How much vacuum I should be getting out of the solenoid to the hubs?
2004 F350 6.0L....
I have a 01 f250 v10 4x4 ... My stock hubs squeak non stop when they are engaged. I want to get a set of warns.
I am going down to napa tomorrow, looking for a detailed link, or instructions of how to install these things? i have searched but just keep coming up with people raving about how great warn hubs are!
Do I need any special tools, do I need to grease the new ones before installing?