I have a 1999 Ford F-250 superduty single cab. I am trying to put in rear speakers into the stock speaker housing but there are no wires run to the area. Where are the wires located in the dash to run the wire from?
View 2 RepliesI'm putting a new double din stereo w/ backup camera in my truck, I have everything wired except the violet/white wire (from the stereo) that needs to be hooked to a wire (on the truck) that will activate the camera when you put it in reverse. I cannot figure where this wire is on the 2012 for the life of me.
View 3 RepliesTrying to find ground wire location on my 99 f250 super duty with the 5.4 triton I didn't unbolt it myself. Going to be doing the big 3 upgrade soon and would like to use the factory ground spots.
View 13 RepliesWhat color wire controls the high beams?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2013 F250 that I am installing a amber warning beacon on. I need to be able to get the end of the electrical cable into the cab of the truck but it has a 12 volt lighter plug on the end that cannot come off. Is there a rubber plug somewhere in the cab that I can route the cable through?
View 3 RepliesHaving problem with the speakers popping like they are busted when listening to HD radio only. I took it by the dealer and they told me to not listen to HD radio.... Really, I paid all this money and now I can only use some of the features....It has the Sony system with Mytouch. Any update or TSB on this. It's really annoying when your trying to jam out and your speakers sounds busted!!!
View 10 RepliesI 2000 f250 throughout a few years.
Anyways, I recently aquired a tekonsha voyager (for free) and went to install it, but have run into a problem with the installation.
I searched to find a wire color guide to figure out what wires are which on the under dash connector, but cannot find the answer I'm searching for.
Currently I have a red, green, blue, brown, and yellow wire on the underdash connector, while the tekonsha only has red, white, blue, and black. (I know what colors do what on the controller, but am completly lost on the under dash plug, and can't trace it back without tearing out the entire dash assembly.
I have a 2006 F250 and my 7pin and 4 pin connectors are just hanging loose. I'm not sure what happened to the factory bracket. What is the part number for this bracket? Also, where does it mount to? I looked under the truck and couldnt tell where the factory one mounts.
View 4 RepliesInstalling a back up camera and need to locate reverse lights on driver's side at rear bumper. What color wire is for the reverse lights on a 2003 F-350 (truck in my sig)?
View 4 RepliesIf you look at the top of the picture you can see the two bolts with fresh oil on them.
I have a 2002 Ford F250 V10 Pick up. I noticed oil leaking from under the oil pan. I wiped off the pan and bolts to see where it was coming from. The oil seems to be leaking from the rear of pan. There's always fresh oil on the rear bolts that hold the pan and I also noticed oil coming from one of the two hoses that go from the radiator to where the oil filter mounts.
But don't those hoses carry radiator fluid and not oil? I bought this truck in July and no oil leaking from underneath. It seemed to have started after I did my first oil change on it. I used regular Vavoline 5W-20 and motorcraft oil filter.
I have a (new to me about 40 days ago) 2004 F250 SD Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 6.0 diesel. 137,xxx miles.
I thought Id gotten a good "deal" on this truck when Id bought it however the last 40 days have been very expensive. The "stealership" I bought the truck from was on a 35mph rd and I couldn't test drive it at highway speeds. So I bought the thing "knowing" there were a few "minor" sniggles wrong... however once about 15 miles from the dealership/stealership and on a highway, the real fun began.
I had a terrible shake, shimmy and groan/whine at speed no matter if the truck was in gear or not.
Since that time ive repaired/replaced:
1) Both front hubs/bearings
2) Both front hub locks
3) Both front brakes and calipers
4) 4 New Hankook tires
5) Ford Dealership Diesel engine service/lube (essentially an expensive oil change)
6) Ford Dealership transmission service
7) Drained (with a siphon) and refilled the rear differential + OEM Ford friction mod.
Ive eliminated problem after problem after problem with this thing.... and yes, the truck does get better with each repair HOWEVER.... Ive still had this groan/whine from the rear end of the truck and a rumble from starting at a dead stop despite my changing out the gear oil in the rear diff.
So I take it today to a local shop (that I trust/sort of) for a 2nd opinion. Their technician takes the truck out for a test run and comes back in 10 min saying he has no clue but the sound was annoying and he'd need to put it on a lift if I could wait.
I saw the truck go up... a few parts get wiggled, some head scratching, saw the truck go down, watched another tech jump in and 2 techs run it out for a test drive.
When it came back, I watched the truck go up again on the lift... this time however they just lifted the rear and with one guy in a pit the other revved the motor. I watched as the wheels spun. A few minutes later both techs came in and said my "rear differential was shot".
They pulled the diff mag plug which was caked in metal deposits. It looked the same when I pulled it off the first time and did the fluid change (yes i cleaned off the plug before putting it back). I had seen differentials (in the past) have deposits like that before on plugs but the units were still good and such deposits were considered casualty of wear and tear.
However im being told the rear end is shot.. When I inquired about just replacing the internals of the diff, it was a simple bolt in/bolt out job.
Is there an easier way to fill the rear end on my '01 f250? I have a gadget with a valve on it with a length of tubing that you put on the bottle, but you still have to snake the bottle up through the chassis.
View 14 RepliesI want to know if there are any issues when removing the rear block, also do I have to put a new block in or can I just leave it out ....
View 12 RepliesJust got done rotating my tires on my 16 F250 ccsb 4x4 and I used jack stands on my rear axle while I used the jack on the front axle. When I brought the truck down off the jack stands (first time using jack stands on this truck) I saw that they left little marks/divits on the rear axle. I had them between the wheel and the shock support and I can feel with my finger where the jack stand was supporting the truck. It doesn't seem anything major but I can surely point out to you exactly where the axle and the jack stand met. I'm sure this is a non issue but just wanted to check in here to make sure...
No trailer attached (of course!) And nothing in the bed with a full tank of gas...so basically just the weight of the truck...
Ok I have a 2001 f250 SD with 7.3 and my rear bumper is dented and badly and warped. The steel frame mounting part of it is straight and fine. I found a "kit" on eBay that has just the end caps and plastic top cap for a 2008+ style trucks. Would those caps and plastic fit on my frame mounted section (what the actual name for the part that the chrome bumper actually screws into that mounts it to frame) ?
View 1 RepliesI would like information how to remove the rear seat back on a 2012 F250. I want to remove the head rests and from what I can find out they are bolted solid to the rear panel. I asked the same question earlier and got a reply for 2011, would that be the same? Is there any place I could get a schematic, a picture is worth a thousand words.
View 5 Replies2003 F250 V10 4x4. I have a rear brake sticking so I assume I have to replace the calipers. Which brand should I go with?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 F250 4x4 7.3 - About a month ago I drove across town and then noticed a strong hot brake smell from the rear of the truck. When I drove home about 2 hours later it was gone and didn't return until today. Today I stopped at a light with my window down and got the same hot brake smell, looked in the mirror and saw smoke coming from my drive's side rear wheel.
I carefully drove home (the smoke was now gone, all i did was cycle the parking brake release a couple of times) and pulled the wheel off. Rotor was really hot but smooth and clean. Brake caliper and pads looked great (no sign of the pads glazing or dragging, dry as a bone). The inside of the rotor was wet with oil. The brake shoes and components were soaked with the same fluid/oil.
Does this sound like a typical hub seal issue? Excuse my ignorance since I haven't had the rear hubs apart before but does the gear oil in the rear diff go into the axle tubes? I know the front tubes are dry but I didn't know if the rears are different. The amount of fluid on the brakes seems to be more than the little bit that is inside the hub. I need to pick up the parts and rent/purchase a couple of tools to replace the seal so I want to be as sure as possible that I'm on the right track...
Having issues with rear wheel wells rusting, mine is a 2004 f-250. I wax at least 10 times a yr. Can't believe I have rust there...
View 13 RepliesI have a quick question. I am gonna change the fluid in my 01 f250 rear end. it has 410 gears and a limited slip diff. if i use full synthetic gear oil do i have to add the limited slip additive or just the 75w-140 full synthetic gear oil.
View 14 RepliesI bought my 06 F250 with the V10 just 2 months ago. I have just a hair over 100k miles on it. A few weeks ago I started hearing this low pitched whine coming from the rear end - and my mechanic found metal shavings in the oil for the rear differential. It starts around 15 mph when I accelerate and it kinda sounds like a real low pitched turbo winding down as I come to a stop.
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