How do you get the door chime to go away when the key is still in the ignition?
Also, how do stop the driver seat from moving every time the key is removed?
I'm looking for a way to eliminate the door chime when the keys are in the ignition and the door is open. I know there is a way to disable it but I don't want to permanently disable...just sometimes.
A friend found a wiring diagram and installed a toggle switch in the drivers kick panel that basically cuts the power to the chime. His F-150 was a different year than mine and I don't know if the F-150's and F-250 use the same color wiring.
I want to do the same thing but need to know which wire that operates the chime. Which wire or have a wiring diagram for a 2006 F-250.
Where I should start looking to solve this thing. Got in my truck to drive home at the end of the day today and noticed the radio was on. Started it up, seemed normal. Shortly after the thing started incessantly *BONG-BONG-BONG*-ing at me. Drove home, turned it off. Started pulling fuses, find the culprit, silence it.
It's no longer constantly on and it seems to have flattened out and is only doing it now when the key is in the off position, otherwise silent when running or in the normal on position. I know it's not this contact (the one in the tumbler above the release pin) that's making the problem happen, as mine is disconnected. It's definitely something in the ignition tumbler or similar that's making at least a couple of the circuits think the key is in when it shouldn't be.
I don't even have the factory service manual for this thing yet with all the electrical diagrams to figure it out. Truck is a 2001 F250 PSD Lariat CC, for what it's worth.
Where is the door chime? I just want to remove it. My truck is a 2014 e350.
View 1 RepliesHow to disconnect the door chime? I like to keep my drivers door open while I listen to the radio and it would be nice to not have the annoying chime ring.
View 11 RepliesHow to disable my door chime with the key in and in the ACC position on a 2015 F350 Super Duty 6.7L. I did pull the blue wire with gray tracer to get rid of the key in chime. I want to use my truck for a radio when i am in the field.
View 4 RepliesReally love my 2013 F550 but the door chime is driving me crazy. On my 2003 f150 you could just drop the column cover and unhook one wire running to the tumbler. So I had a look and found it to be totally different. How to unhook it on this truck?
View 2 RepliesDoor chime /seat belt or key chime comes on random and frequently while driving. With seat belt attached. Bushings in shift handle are worn out. Could this be the culprit? I'd kind of prefer to fix the problem before I disconnect the chime...
View 1 RepliesJust bought a 2010 f250 and I noticed that the warning chime works intermittently. I think this speaker or whatever it is also makes the turn signal noise because that sometimes is silent also. Where this thing is?
View 1 Replies1999 5.4L F250 ... When I turn my ignition all my lights come on and I have power to dash and etc, battery is strong, but when I turn the key I get nothing even when I do the shifter trick for the slip we get on most fords nothing took ignition lock cylinder out and blasted it with electronic connection cleaner, when key is turn i loose all power to everything and there is no "click" or i gage from anything under the hood or the starter rally confused!
View 13 RepliesUpgrading ignition coils on 5.4's? Looking to upgrade mine and only came across a few and the reviews are mixed. I am primarily looking to smooth out the idle and gain some minimal power and maybe get a flicker of a gain in mpg.
View 3 RepliesStarts fine most of the time. Then suddenly key will turn but not engage ignition. Power OK to everything but ignition. Have replaced starter & ignition module. Still does the same thing. Leave for a while & truck starts fine. 2006 F250 6 litre diesel ...
View 1 RepliesI bought my 2000 F-250 CCSB a while ago and it came with 2 keys - one for the ignition, and one for the doors/tailgate - may not seem like a big deal, but it annoys me to no end.
From my understanding, the truck had previously been stolen and had the driver's side lock punched, and then something happened to the ignition lock to where it had to be replaced - hence the different key. I finally got around to replacing all the locks so that I'd only have one key. I started with the doors, then moved to the ignition (which I thought would be the easy part). I've replaced several cylinders before and I know it should be simple, but for the life of me I can't get the cylinder out!
I push the detent, turn the key to run, wiggle and pull.... nothing. I can feel the detent push in, and the cylinder will move a little, but it won't come out. I'm not sure if this is something that just happens sometimes and there's a fix for it, or if I'm in a unique circumstance and my column was somehow damaged during the theft and that's what's causing it.
Headlights work well w/ ignition switch off. High/low/passing all ok. When I turn the ignition switch on, there's a strange wheezing sound for a second.
When the ignition switch is on, there are no headlights.
What's the wheezing sound? Why does the power to the switch quit with the key on? The more I work on modern trucks, the more I like my 1968 f-250.
Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
I have a 2001 f250 5.4 triton. My cb antenna hole leaked water in cab, soaked my fuse block. Horn goes on and off, radio turns on without key in ignition, truck only starts when key is on and I bridge solenoid, and number 4 coil is not firing. I have let truck dry out, fixed the leak. Everything is bad to normal except starting issue and coil issue.
View 6 RepliesI have an issue in the passenger door lock on my 2000 F250. My key rarely works on the passenger door. If it does work it takes a lot of wiggling and trying.
I have power locks that work normally and the key works great on the driver's door. How it works but I've heard there is an anti-theft feature where if you hit the lock button twice on the fob the door locks no longer work with the key until they are unlocked with the fob again. I figured my lock issue was related to that.
How to work on this system? What might cause this?
My '99 Super Duty does NOT have power windows; old school cranks. The door panel(s) are "no frilz", no storage pockets. I want to know if it's possible to get panels that DO have pockets and will "fit" my crank handles?
I could always just drill a hole into a door panel that has the pockets for the window crank, but, they all seem to come with power window setups (opening for all the power switches). Also, where I can get rugs to cover the floor - I just have a rubbery/plastic surface.
2006 F-250 'family Cadillac' ... Where exactly is the door buzzer? I am looking all around under the dash but can't find it. I want to disconnect it.
View 13 RepliesMy factory-ordered 2016 F250 CC SB 6.2L 4X4 3.73 is about 6 weeks old. Driver and passenger side door rattle noise (in upper back corner) at highway speeds (65-75 mph) has gotten progressively worse over those 6 weeks. See attached video.
Trying to determine if this is caused by:
Door seals: the temperature here in Iowa has dropped from a few weeks in the 90's to the now in the mid-60's.
Could the temperature change have caused the seals to change shape/structure and result in the rattle/noise?
The exterior seal between the front and back doors (attached to front of the back door): mine seems a little loose on top, but nothing that would cause this kind of noise.
I just bought a 2006 F250 Lariat. The previous owner did not have a manual for the vehicle. When I open a door the dome light does not come on. Is it supposed to come on in that vehicle? The exterior light above the rear window that illuminates the bed of the truck does come on when a door is opened so it makes me think that there is a wiring issue with the dome light. I can light the dome lamps with the switches on the lamp housing so I know that it is working and the bulbs are good.
View 8 Replies