Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - Gas Sits Lop Sided
May 7, 2015
Very noticeable not like things i read on about .5-1" this is like an inch and half to two inch on driver side front and rear... Looks like the bed is twisted but its not frame is intact and by a level sits good... Same in front end. Since there is no coil springs could this be related to the leaf springs or maybe rust caused something I am not seeing to break and give way....this gangsta lean has to be fixed....
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My 2wd truck sits just a tiny bit low in the front. I see a lot of the hockey puck leveling kits on ebay but there are SO many options that I don't know where to turn. I want to up 1 inch and id like to use a nylon or rubber spacer. Will I need shock extensions?
Also do the 4wd trucks use the same front coil springs? I looked under a 4wd truck today and noticed it has a big rubber isolator on top of the spring that my truck does not have.
Here's how it sits with 2 dirt bikes in it. Maybe I'll even go up a squeak in the back too, just to bring it up to 4x4 height.
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Bought a new truck and had the dealer put a leveling kit (readylift 2.5" kit) on it with bigger tires. The rear now sits lower than the front. Any way to fix this? I want the truck to sit level as much as possible loaded and unloaded. New 2016 F350 KR
I added a pic ....
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Just wondering if its normal that my front axle sits out about 1 1/2 inches further on the drivers side than the passenger, also gas pump always shutting off when filling up...
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Is there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
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So I just bought a 2016 F-250 (6.2L Gas) and the dealer says the trucks don't have gas caps anymore. Built in vapor lock blah blah blah... I have seen this on some cars, but it looked different. Mine looks like it should have a cap screwed on.
I have 200 miles in and "Check Fuel Cap" keeps popping up on the dash. I'm going to call the dealer when they open today but was wondering if anyone has bought a 2016 without a gas cap.
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I'm working on my brothers 99 f250 super duty 2wd. The truck pulls to the right. Here's the list of things I've changed and checked
1. Gear box
2. Tie rods
3. Ball joints (aligned)
4. New bearings and seals
5. Brake rotors and calipers. Front and rear.
6. Rotated tires front to back
7. Rotated tires in cris cross pattern
8. 4 new tires (factory size tires)
9. Rebalanced tires
10. Aligned for a third time.
And the truck still pulls right. What is causing this!
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I have a 2003 f-250 s/d 7.3 ltr. 4x4, it is lifted 4" with 20 " pro comp tires and an auto tranny. I am getting between 10 and 11 mpg. whether pulling my 26 ft. trailer or just driving around town. I was told that is not good mpg. What I can do to improve the fuel economy or is 10 mpg normal.
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Just wanting to know what might be wrong truck will not go into 4x4. All fuses in panel looked good. Light on dash is not coming on was working last weekend just fine. Have the hubs in lock position not auto.
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I've had my 99 F250 for about 2 weeks and my SES light came on last week. I took it into AutoZone and they read the code. DPFE sensor EGR etc. The kid behind the counter mentioned something about removing those and saving some money. We don't have any emissions testing. I don't want to take any short cuts really, but if its unnecessary to have than why not delete it. I have the 5.4 and it has 189,000 miles and we did buy the truck to haul the camper so that plays into the scenario also.
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Okay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?
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What a 1999 f250 super duty triton v10 would have for a front axle and why mine won't lock in 4x4 at the front drivers side hub it have warn hubs and will lock in on passenger side but on divers with ether just grind or not go in at all...
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My 1999 f250 v10 automatic shakes really bad only when your doing 70-80 kmh unless you shut off the overdrive or go faster... why?
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Ok i have a 99 f250 with a 6.8 v10 that is not turning over at all. I have checked the battery and its good. I have replaced the starter and the starter relay and have tested the starter and its good too. I have also used a volt meter on the batter, starter, and relay and looked at the relevant info and they are all in the correct volt range. I have also taken the starter off and looked at the flywheel and it has good teeth so thats not an issue. I am completely stumped now as to what it could be?
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Friend's truck started shifting wierd the other day, starts in second gear (maybe higher). The transmission is a fresh rebuild, the shop wouldn't warranty the rebuild and blamed electrical problems outside the tranny. Fuses are all good, engine light is on but the cheapo code reader won't show a code. Did a search and no answers. Had the overdrive light flashing from before, that code was for a wheel speed sensor.
1999 F250 (7 bolt) 5.4L 4x4
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So, currently I have a 2006 6.0 that's been bulletproofed with a 4.5" lift, 35" tires, and a few other things. I've debated going to an Ecoboost F-150, but I really don't want to give up the payload and towing capacity of the F-250.
The big gripe I have about my F-250 is dealing with diesel issues in the winter and the stiff ride and wouldn't mind a little quieter engine. Besides that I love the big truck. My question is if the 6.4 or 6.7 trucks are better about not gelling and not starting in the winter compared to the 6.0? I've read that the ride quality on the 6.4 and the 6.7 is much better than the 6.0 truck.
I've actually debated just getting a dually F-350 and getting another car to drive when I don't need the truck. I'd never have to worry about too heavy or big of a load and then wouldn't have to worry about driving a big truck into tight places either.
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Seems recently my 2008 f250 diesel wants to go into 4wd all by itself. It's the electric switch on dash with the auto/lock front hubs. I'm thinking either the dash switch or the accuator motor. Where to start though... Also I can turn the switch to 4 wheel high and it doesn't go in.
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I have a 2002 f250 4.2 diesel with a 5 speed manual box and i want to put a 7.3 in it. Does it fit?and can i make the 5 speed tranny fit?
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I have a 2000 F250 with a V10, that won't start or turn over. I replaced the solenoid on the fender well, auto store check the starter 3 times and said it was good, new battery installed and same issue of not starting.
Here is a video of what it does when attempting to start : F250 starting issue - YouTube....
Where and what to look at?
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Do f150 bumper is the same as my 03 F250?
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I have a 2011 f250 6.7 and I have a very bad vibration between 40-50 that seems to peak around 45-47. It also starts again at 80+ . the dealer told me they could not find a problem. Then another told me its normal. The tire shop around here told me the tires were shot so I bought new tires. No luck. It does not affect it if I change gears.
2011 f250 4x4 6.7 SWB. 140,000 miles
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