Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 Extended Cab Back Doors Stopped Opening
Oct 8, 2009
1999 F250 extended cab back doors won't open. The passenger side stopped opening right after I purchased it a few months back (168K miles). I removed the door panels and reached my hand in feeling around. I know the latch releases are activated by cables but cannot figure out how they work. While feeling and pulling on the cables one became dislodged from its holder. The driver's side stopped opening yesterday . Do the cables stretch, break, or what? Or are the holders the issue? Is there an illustration that shows how the cables are run and connected?
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A while ago both back doors on my 01 crew cab stopped working. The outside handles jiggle loose but the inside ones feel like normal. They both went at about the same time. If it's those little black boxes that mount by the handle on the door, how do I even get to it to change it if it's stuck shut? I can't reach my hand in there either to even try to see what's wrong with it. How to get it open?
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The rear power sliding window on my 05 6.0 F250 has started to open and close very slowly. I recently had my windows tinted. I checked track and can not see any obstruction. Having problems with their power sliders? Wondering if coincidence or if there is problem with window motor.
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I posted a reply her a couple of weeks ago on how I fixed my '03 SD's squeaky doors. I went to AutoZone and bought 32 feet of 5/8 inch self-adhesive rubber (not foam) weatherstripping and mounted it around the outside edges of both doors, starting at the top. Presto - squeaks are gone, there are no more drafts and road noise is reduced a little. (I may remove the stripping I put on the side edges of the doors because I think the culprit is actually the rigid polyethylene bumper strip they've mounted on the upper door jam).
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I have a "rattle/knock" that I think is coming from the doors on my 2000 F250 SD extended cab. The rattle is only there when the truck is going over bumps....especially closly spaced bumps. My buddy has the exact truck and it does not rattle.
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I bought a 2012 F250 6.2L 4wd recently, truck came from Canada, Noticed a sticky residue along button of doors, around hinges, inside front and side edges of hood, some of the goo is in the A/C coil, doesn't have much odor, maybe oil, comes off with degreaser, doesn't look like it came from engine as that is clean, could this be something they spray on the roads up there? Doesn't seem to harm anything just messy if you rub up against it?
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I have a 02 F250 V10. When I am pulling a trailer and began to travel over 50 MPH the truck feels like its moving left to right almost like its sliding on ice. Its worse the more weight I am pulling. When I am not pulling anything there is no issues. The trailers I am pulling are gooseneck trailers. What would cause this.
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I noticed yesterday after using my drivers side rear door that i really have to force the door shut to have it latch properly. It has always needed a little more force than usual to shut but not I never had to grip the side of the door and force it like I'm gonna punch the side of the truck. After its latched the top is solid and doesn't budge but the bottom seems to be able to move a little if i grab it and try and wiggle it.
I am not sure if it is misaligned or what but its driving me crazy, is there something I should look for in particular? The passenger side shuts like an average door and doesn't really require a lot of force to shut but the drivers side has been like that since the day my dad picked it up new except now its really bad. I tried the search function but I could only find threads about door stuck shut not doors that wont shut.
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2012 f250, fog lights stopped working and tried fixing yesterday. I'm getting 12.8v at the plug but as soon as you plug the light in it goes to 0. Ran a new ground from frame and the hot from plug and still nothing. High beams off, truck running and switch pulled out. Bulb is fine, hooked it straight to battery and it comes on. I though it was a faulty ground but by running a separate ground and still nothing. I'm at a lose.
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My 2000 F250 4 x 4 just started being almost impossible to steer to right when stopped. To the left it is ok. I was on a trip and when I got where I was going noticed the steering very hard. I checked the fluid level and it was almost empty. I filled the reservoir and let it sit 4 days. I am back on the road now and it is still doing it. Stopped to left is easy to right almost impossible.
My brakes are good. I noticed a couple times when I had to slam on the brakes on the tirp the rear tires chirped. I don't tow anything with it, just a family vehicle with 408000 miles. The power steering pump was replaced a few years ago. Pump, gearbox, etc? I need to get this fixed as I have another trip coming up in a few days.
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First tech post for my new truck. I just bought a hold-over but new 2015 F250 XL Supercab 2wd and love the simplicity of no unwanted options. That said, there are two features I am adding. The first is perfectly straightforward, cruise control (swap button cluster and have the function turned on by the dealer). The second is a tiny bit more involved, back-up camera, in mirror display with bluetooth hands-free (I like the simple AM/FM radio because I can work it all with gloves on).
So I basically need three things from the truck and my research has been inconclusive on a couple of things because most of the threads are for 2014 or earlier. I think I can pull switched 12V and ground (pin 1 and 4) plus reverse lights (center, or pin 7) all from the the trailer wiring harness. It appears these are not affected by the canbus load restrictions of other places to tap reverse signal (remember, XL so likely nothing in the overhead console for the auto-dimming rear view mirror). Are there any challenges with this when I do hook up my enclosed trailer or when it is not hooked up regarding the trailer brake controller/anti-sway?
I already found a good youtube video for how to route the wires so I think this is my primary challenge at this point.
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I'd like to replace the back bench seats with something that has a headrest. Can I swap out the benchseat from a 2004 model and place it in my 2003 model?
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I bought my first vehicle last October, a '99 F-250 with a 6.8 V10. I later found out (AFTER hauling a big load of rocks in a dump trailer) that one of the bottom leaf springs was broken. So this winter I have been thinking on what I want to do about it when it warms up. This is pretty much on top of the "to do" list for my truck. I did make a thread about putting 1 ton springs under it, but I think I'll just stick with the regular 3/4 ton springs. So now this is where I have another question, and I think this pic will tell some of it:
Now I'm not sure if those rear springs are stock, but that rear end is way the heck up there! The truck itself is not level, the front looks to be correct height, but not the back. A buddy at school and I were talking about a leveling kit for the front. But the more I look at it, I think the rear end should come down. I don't want to get bigger tires, as I just put brand new Transforce AT's on the back and plan to put new ones on the front in the near future.
Another question of mine is, would this have been a truck ordered just for pulling a camper? It has holes for a fifth wheel hitch in the bed, the rear end sits high, and it didn't come with a tow package. The PO told me that he put the receiver hitch on it. I'm fixing up stuff on it one thing at a time. Springs just happen to be next on the list.
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I have an F-250 diesel 2004 and about six months ago it started acting really crazy. Basically most all of the dashboard electronics stopped working like the speedometer , odometer, gauges, etc. additionally all of the interior lights, and the radio stopped working. Now it looks a lot like the attached picture when I'm driving the truck. All of the lights are lit up on the dash panel but nothing actually works. I thought at first that a bunch of fuses might be blown but I have replaced nearly every fuse that has anything to do with any of the affected systems. What the issue might be.
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I have a 2003 F250, 4x4, 5.4L and today my fuel gauge stopped working. I don't know if it had anything to do with a stall, I was on an exit ramp and the truck cut off, I quickly restarted and no issues after that. Other than the fuel gauge not working at this point.
I looked at the fuse panel diagram and there is no fuse for just the fuel gauge. The only thing I see is #35, instrument cluster. The rest of my instruments are working, so what else would cause the fuel gauge to stop working? It had a little over a half of a tank before the stall, after the stall it went down to less than half. I filled up shortly later and it's just stuck at less than half.
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A buddy of mine has a 99 F250, and the 4WD stopped working. The 4wd light in the dash does not turn on with the key with the rest of the lights. There is a Low Range light that does turn on. He took it to a shop/dealership and they said the vacuum was good. They also swapped in a different GEM module, which didn't change anything.
I swapped the relays under the hood - no change. I keep reading that there is a two wire plug on the transfer case I can test for voltage or to manually power the motor. Where is it? I see two plugs - the blue one on the left has 4 wires, the black one has more. Or is that not the shift motor I need to be looking for?
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My door locks stopped working new battery in fob, I can hear them trying to work. 2000 f250 crew cab .....
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My HVAC blower motor stopped today while the wife was driving the F250. I thought I should swap relays (with the heated mirror relay - same Ford Part Number) to rule it out or identify it as the culprit. However, since these are close to the firewall, I have a hard time getting the grip and leverage to pull the relay out of the Battery Junction Box (BJB). How to make this a bit easier?
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1999 F-250 LD 5.4... There is a hole on the back of the upper intake manifold, just below the back of the throttle body, is a vacuum hose supposed to be attached here? Have a serious vacuum leak, no coolant loss, no overheating, just had cop's and spark plugs done, now she backfires, stalls and will not stay running, mech. says its an intake gasket but the gasket and lower intake manifold look new.
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I've got a 2014 f250 xl super cab and can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the back seat back.
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I have a 2002 Ford F2 50 that has a diesel leak on the back of the engine. I've already replaced the drain valve that was leaking. Then I noticed that the front of the engine was dry now but the back of the engine still has some pooling With a very small drip off the back of the engine between the transmission housing and engine. Not as bad as it was of course But still a small drip. Where this may be coming from? And how to fix it?
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