Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - Clutch Pedal Went Straight To The Floor Boards
Jun 12, 2017
Pulled out of street this morning and as I was shifting into 3rd my clutch pedal went straight to the floor boards. I was able to keep it in 2nd gear and get it back to my driveway . The pedal will only go straight to floor or goes straight up too the bottom of dash board. It's spring loaded. Am I dealing with a linkage issue?. I had clutch as I pulled out of my driveway and stopped go at the stop sign. Plus I was able to drive it back too my house with the pedal on the floor boards. Where I should look first?
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My stock 2009 ford f250xl 4x4 with a 5.4 and 6 speed has been giving me a weird sound lately started about a month ago and only happens on a cold start situation meaning if it sits over night it will do the sound. the sound goes away after 3-5 min of warm up in my driveway, the sound happens when i push the clutch pedal to the floor. it has no pronounced abnormal sounds through out the rest of the day when its hot which perplexes me, check out the vid on my u tube site for a sound of it.
MAH00111 - YouTube
MAH00115 - YouTube
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I have a 06 f360 PSD 6 speed. On a road trip and the clutch pedal is getting very close to the floor. No Slippage but the longer I leave the pedal pressed the worse it gets. Are there any good descriptions how the clutch in this truck works?? Slave cyl??
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I Have a 1999 f250 7.3 diesel with the zf5 manual transmission and to shift gears I need to push the clutch all the way to the floor. Could this possibly be the slave and master cylinder or is it the clutch?
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The other day I got in my truck and started down the driveway when I realized I had no brakes, I slowly backed up and parked it. I haven't driven the truck for approx. 2 weeks and it seemed fine then. The master cylinder is full, there are no signs of leakage from wheel cylinders or lines. Today I unscrewed the left front zert and no fluid came out. My pedal goes all the way to the floor.... Whats going on, and if its a easy fix?
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I don't know what's going on maybe some body can shed a little light on this. If you hold the brake pedal down for a long period of time you can feel the pedal slowly go to the floor. So no problem I'll change the master cylinder bleed everything brand new fluid. Don't drive it much we let the sister in law drive it we'll I jump back into it the other day to go to Home Depot and once again I notice it still does it. Could the hydra brake booster be bleeding by or what's else could be causing this it's driving me insane. I really can't imagine the hydra booster causing a problem but it's new to me. I was thinking about bleeding the brakes again thinking there maybe there's air but I have run 2 bottles of brake fluid through how much more??
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I just bought my first Ford. Its a 2003 F250 SD with 5.4L, 5 speed manual, extended cab, 2WD. The truck is experiencing intermittent problems with the clutch pedal.
If I depress the clutch pedal for a long time, then sometimes it does not retract all the way. It does this, for example, when I am at a traffic light waiting for the next opportunity to make a left hand turn.
The truck runs and operates as it should even when this does happen. The easy response is to place your toes under the clutch pedal and pull it aft to its completely released position.
The master and slave cylinder and the booster spring attached to the clutch pedal assembly have been replaced and this condition still continues.
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I have a 99 f250 sd truck that came as a auto and I am changing it to manual. I bought a slave cylinder unit setup and got it put in and as I was installing rod from pedal to slave I must of broke plastic fingers that hold rod. So is them fingers replaceable or must I buy another unit? with no foot on pedal it sticks up close to bottom of dash now. I tried pushing clutch all the way to floor and still rises too high. What can I do????
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I just recently purchased my 1999 ford F-250 superduty V8 5.4 5 speed with 144,00 miles and I'm having a issue with the clutch pedal sticking in and then it will pop out after a couple seconds. It will stick more when I come to a light and have my foot on the clutch but the pickup drives fine and there is no slipping of the clutch. I have never experienced this issue before in any rig I've owned. so I'm a little lost at the moment.
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I've got a 2000 F250, 5.4L 4x4 with the ZF5 5-speed transmission. Three years ago I replaced the complete clutch assembly, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, etc, and had the flywheel re-machined. Put it back in and all has been well. Only has about 15k miles on it. Earlier this week I went to drive it and all of the sudden it started getting harder to shift and by the end of the trip the clutch will not disengage at all when I push the pedal in.
Furthermore the pedal is much harder to push than it always has been. Checked the reservoir and it's fine. After some searching it seems to most likely be an issue with the master and/or slave cylinder either needing to be bled or replaced. Further reading revealed that bleeding and recommends just replacing the whole system, so I've priced that out. Was it a master/slave issue? Anything else I should check in case it isn't?
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Do the raptor style boards will work on an F250, 2012?
I hate the stock ones and want something closer to the body and has some rocker panel protection. Alternatives are welcome but not 1k ones.
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So last evening, I went to start my car and the clutch pedal went straight to the floor with no resistance. Car started and was extremely hard to get into every gear. Felt like the only thing pushing the clutch pedal back up was the spring underneath the pedal itself. Clutch pedal was 100% just the day before. Got the clutch line bled (vacuum bleeder) and it worked fine again.
Any clue as to what could caused this overnight?
Its a AWP 1.8t jetta with ASR.. I believe I came across something about a revision in the hydraulic line but I'm not sure.
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I've been driving manual 12 years, all my driving life, and been in 10+ manual vehicles during that time, including a 10+ year stint in a 1.8T Passat with a 5-speed.
In all that time, and all those experiences, I've never replaced a clutch, damaged a clutch, or had one problem. In fact, I consider myself a very good operator of the manual transmission.
This is preface to my current situation. 2009 Tiguan (early build) 2.0T 6M, driving at 57mph in 6th gear - downshift to 4th to pass a truck and WHAM. Grinding, confusion, and then the clutch pedal stuck straight to the floor. Glide to a stop on the side of the bayou road.
Totally immobile vehicle. Impossible to shift into gear, or get the pedal off the floor except by pulling. Smell of acrid smoke.
VW dealership says "we're doing a courtesy warranty repair" on the clutch, flywheel and bearings, as if it's my fault. Impossible. This is a mechanical defect if I ever saw one.
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I was driving, Iput the brakes on then suddenly I heard a loud bang and brake pedal went all the way to the floor. I knew there was something wrong with the brakes, parked went and checked the passenger side rear brake caliper was ripped off which made a hole through my rim and also ripped off the brake lines. I need to get the part but I don't know what its called. See the pictures....
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First, I am fortunate that I was only going 25 mph when some turned in front of me causing me to slam on the brakes. The pedal went to the floor, but did slow the truck enough to miss the jerk. Had I been on the highway, it would have been very bad.
Anyway, what I found is still hard for me to believe for two reasons. It find it hard to believe it failed, but more important that I am getting the last national inventory of 2 of the 3 lines in this picture (according to my Ford dealer).
The three lines are almost directly under the front end of the master cylinder between the block and frame. These are as I found them. The larger one goes to the rear feeding both rear brakes while the two smaller run to the front brakes. The spring looking part below is just a plastic protector. The line which failed goes to the front left.
I think anyone with a 2005 SuperDuty which uses the same or similar parts should take a very close look at the flex sections. The parts I have ordered are: 6C3Z-2B523-BA, 6C3Z-2263-BA, and 6C3Z-2264-BA (rear, right, and left).
How long a manufacture is required to maintain inventory? I thought 7 years, but someone suggested 17. I'm at 8 years, but I would have expected more than 1 each of the fronts to be available. Do they changed parts on the '06 or '07?
My 350 spent 2 winters in the Chicago area and has been resting in Florida since 2006. No work was done in this area, but the closest work was the main fuel pump (frame mounted) replaced 2 years ago, but that is almost 2 feet to the rear.
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I just bought a 99 f250 super duty with 6 speed and it has clutch problem the clutch pedal goes about 1/3 of way down then drops to the floor and stays. I pulled slave cylinder and it has just as much resistance as a new one. my other thought was a spring internally in transmission. any other thoughts or do I just need to replace the clutch?
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I believe my brakes have a problem.
Lately, I can stomp on my brakes @ 50 mph and they won't trigger the abs or come close to skidding the tires. The peddle goes to the floor if I push hard enough and the truck doesn't seem to stop fast like it used to.
I'm wondering if there is an issue I should be focusing on, like swelling brake lines or some issue you may know of. I'll try bleeding the brakes this coming weekend, but i think its going to be a bad brake line or something.
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I am new to the Superduty and the Diesel world. I just purchased a used 2006 F250 SD XLT with 79K miles on it. This truck has a brand new 6 inch rancho lift. I just bought brand new 35x12.50x18 toyo open country AT tires and new 18 inch rims. I have the steering box replaced, new brakes all the way around, front end alignment and the Turbo pedestal secured.
However, I am still getting a vibration in the floor going down the highway when i hit 70MPH under acceleration? Once I let off the gas the noise goes away.
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Recently my F350 has failed to downshift when the accelerator pedal is pressed to the floor to speed up in traffic. It will usually happen when traveling at speeds in the 30's-40's. It will shift quickly at slower speeds. I have a scan guage on it all the time and it is not throwing any codes.
The transmission has only been serviced by the dealer; last done about 24000 miles ago. No leaks or low fluids/no burned smells. Stock setup with no heavy towing use. Currently at 228000+ miles, this is the first issue with the transmission assuming I am looking at the right area for the cause.
2005 F350 XLT 4WD
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Today I was going to launch my new boat and when I backed down the ramp, the brake went to the floor almost sinking the truck. Long story short, the brake line that runs along the frame to the rear brakes rusted through at a bend that I couldn't see. Seems the line is about 8 feet long. What I'd like to know is can I replace it without dropping the fuel tank which of course I just filled yesterday and can I obtain one at a ford dealer or will I have to order one. My truck is my only transportation.
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Had a No start issue.Turn the key and nothing. Could hear the relays click so knew it wasn't the ignition. Could jump the starter via the wire on the passenger fender so starter good. Replaced the clutch position switch last night. Still have no start but now when I press clutch I have a tow haul light come on dash.If I press it again it turns off. Truck doesn't have tow haul option installed. I hear a relay clicking under the dash too. This is a 2004 Superduty (F550). Replaced the ignition switch today and still same.
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