Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - Changed O2 Sensor Still Getting P0155?
Nov 24, 2015
99 5.4 F250
Well, this truck i have had many many codes before. I cleared them and all went away except for p0155. I fixed my manifold leaks and cleared the codes. It came back on and i changed the o2 sensor, twice. Still on.
Ive checked the heater and input wires to the pcm and have .6 ohms each, so they are good with what appears to be no shorts. I dont know how to check the other 2 o2 sensor wires.
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I just changed out my IAC. Truck is still idling too high. When I squeeze the host to the IAC it idles down. When I unplug the IAC the truck immediately dies.
Does the IAC talk to the the Throttle position sensor? Should this be my next part to change?
2002 F250 5.4L ....
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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On the F250 trucks, if I changed the mounting frame under the seat, will the passenger side seat fit on the drivers side? Basically, can I turn a passenger seat into a drivers seat?
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I have a ford f250 super duty and it wont start I have checked obvious reasons and I think it might be a crank shaft sensor. Just curious, is there two of them one for right bank and left bank or just one on drivers side?
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I have noticed my trans temp gauge needle is dead center of the gauge even on a cold start. I thought my sensor was under the pan so I pulled it and did not see any sensor at all. Is there a external sensor?
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Long time follower, first time user. 99 F250 V10 180,000 miles: About a month ago I replaced both upstream oxygen sensors. I know have the following codes:
0135 and 0155 for Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater HTR 21 and 11
Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 and 2
1409 for Exhaust Gas Recirculation Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit
I checked fuses and PCM relay and all are good. I have 12 volts to both oxygen sensors and no noticeable wire burns. One of the possible causes given on code printout for 0135/0155 is to check for a disconnected hose to the EGR. All hoses are good. One of the possible reported fixes for EGR code 1409 is to repair oxygen sensor wiring. So my question is: Are these codes related. If I replace the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid, will this clear my codes from the oxygen sensors?
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I have the 2012 XL F-250 6.2 v8 , I have an ambient (outside air) temperature sensor that needs replacing, I ordered it and was told it is located in the passenger side mirror from the parts guy, there is a tap in the bottom of the mirror to access it, looking for a replacement type video link of how to do this, as I am not finding one via youtube, pulling the tab off on the bottom of the mirror I am not really seeing the part I have as a replacement in the mirror.. This is the XL version/work truck so ALL manual mirrors....
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I am running a 2008 Ford F-250 with the DPF Delete and the Mini Maxx Tunner. I have replaced the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) as well as the EGR Valve and housing troubleshooting this issue. Both the Engine light and the coolant icon come on when I turn on the vehicle. I am getting a P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low code on the Mini Maxx.
From a cold start with codes cleared if I turn the engine to ON even without starting the engine the Engine codes will come on and the the Mini Maxx will read engine coolant temp 302 and will go into Defueling Mode. I have repeatedly tried removing and reattaching the connector to the ECT thinking it could be loose connection. I can't drive the truck because there is no power and i know the engine is not hot because I have let it sit all night before doing these tests. I do not have a scanner to test other than the Mini Maxx. Other notes: I have checked Coolant I have checked Oil
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I recently picked up a 2005 f250 SD 5.4 4x4... I was having issues with sporadic shifting and wandering shifts while cruising around 100kph, scanned it and came up with p0721 OSS sensor circuit performance fault.
I checked the harness and all looks fine, now I attempted to remove the OSS at the rear of the tranny, got the 8mm bolt out however could not, for the life of me get the sensor out. I tried not to use pliers to twist the sensor or anything for fear of breaking the sensor off and having bits go into the transmission.
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(The truck is a 05 f250 with a 5.4l). The problem first started out with the engine temperature gauge spiking and then resetting itself when the truck is turned off and then turned back on. If I drove the truck for any distance it would go into limp mode and the CEL would come on. The code was p1299, which is the cylinder head temperature sensor, and I replaced the sensor but no luck. Then the shop and I went through all accessories hooked up and couldn't find a short until I remembered that my prodigy break controller would occasionally read "ol" or "sh" which both readings are from shorts. I tow a enclosed trailer about 85% of the time and the past week I have been towing it with a different 250 and the same break controller without a problem so I have eliminated the trailer. But the shop just said the problem was the controller and unhooked it.
Now the next day it threw the same code with the controller unhooked and the trailer hooked up. after thinking it seemed that it was happening when i accelerated so I took apart the 7 pin and sure enough there was a little water in it, but after driving it around for a little and no code being thrown I hooked my break controller up and it still was showing ol or sh so i believe there is still a short. Also I noticed that my voltage is reading right at 13v instead of the 13.8-14v it was reading before this issue arose. I think I have narrowed it down to the 7 pin harness and/or electrical in the break components, but do not know what would loop back to the temperature sensor.
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You know the "mechanic's fiances truck" problem. I recently replaced the cam sensor in my 05' F250 Gas. The check engine light had been on for a while before that and my truck rode great, however I now want to sell it and I can't do that with a check engine light on. It's got about 85k miles on it.
After replacing the sensor, the light went off for about 20 miles, but it is now back on and my truck seems to miss every once in a while on acceleration or cruising. Some days it's worse than others. The check engine light still says cam sensor, but the sensor is brand new.
My fiance is a mechanic, so I don't know all the details about code numbers and such. However, I want to sell this truck pretty soon, and I would like it to run correctly. His dad (another mechanic) seems to think it could be a coil and wants to wait for that light to come on, but I would rather fix the problem and sell the truck!
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I recently bought a 2008 F250 with the 6.4 diesel indirectly from a dealership. The truck itself has 220,000ish kilometers, but the engine (as well as the turbos) are Ford reman that had about 12,000km when I bought it and I have only put about 6500km on it. It is already leaking oil but that is for another thread.
The reverse sensors, steering wheel controls and part of the stock 6cd radio have never worked. The towing system has errors as well. The fuel level sensor often has problems reading the new level after I put in fuel, but that is always fixed by disconnecting the batteries and forcing a hard reset.
I figured the steering wheel/cruise control problem was due to either a broken clock spring and/or the brake pressure switch. I replaced both those as well as the airbag because the horn relay failed closed when I put it back in the wheel. It did not fix the problem. The steering wheel buttons still intermittently illuminate, but the radio controls and cruise control buttons do not function regardless. The truck isn't giving any codes either.
The towing system will activate lights and brakes on a trailer as well as set the gain, but it will not detect that it is actually hooked to a trailer. I cleaned the pins, but I haven't looked any further into it. No codes for this as well.
The reverse sensors/system does not work. It will lock itself in "off". I am guessing this is because one or more of the sensors have failed, but I am skeptical that it would be just that given the trucks other problems.
The radio does work, but the auxiliary input/mode will not work. I ran the diagnostics on the radio and on 'Test 1' I got "SELF FAIL B1342 ECU" and "B2477 CONFIG". I tried to clear the codes, but I can't. I think this means the radio is kill.
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I have a 04 F350 srw , 6.8 . Recently developed loud whine from the rear . I had the differential (10.5 sterling ) completely rebuilt . It quieted way down . But I still had a couple of high pitched whines . Took it back and had the rebuilder ride with me . At first he couldn't hear it ( it can be faint but gets louder under a load , I pull a 40' trailer and didn't have it with me), when he finally started hearing it he said it might be a planetary making a little noise, just watch it . So I made a short run (450miles RT) . Same noises but I noticed that sometimes when I stopped and got fuel , it would quiet down for 50 or so miles . I got to thinking maybe it could be a rear wheel bearing going bad and the sound transferring through the axle to the drive line . It only did it accelerating ( before and after rebuild ) and got louder going up a hill .
Today I drove it in to town and parked it ( still the same ) and a couple of hours later after a cold front came through ( maybe 10 Deg. temp change) I got in and the noise was about 90% gone , but at 45 to 60 mph. it vibrates . Let off the gas , vibrates ,, Put it in neutral- vibrates, revved the engine in neutral - vibrates and no change from rpm diff. . As long as its rolling between 45-60 , it vibrates . Hit the brakes- vibrates.. I have had 3 mechanics check it out ( 2 good ones and one that the other 2 take what they cant figure out ). Left them all scratching their heads. Checked the driveline and I changed one U joint (prior to the short run ). All seems tight .
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I put an O'reileys alternator in my truck today. Drove it most the day and did some plowing with it and it was fine. I just went out to run to the gas station and now the battery light is on. The voltage is still good.
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So I just replace my Cat. Converter with all new sensors in them. I just replaced my spark plugs. (I'm knocking out these check engine light problems) and I think I'm getting close to the root as to why these other parts went bad. Why my o2 sensor would be stuck on "lean" ....
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i have a 04 f250 with the 5.4 gas motor, yesterday i changed the fuel pump in it, after we were done we started it up ran fine turned it off went to go start it again nothing, and yes i already checked the inertia switch under the passenger kick panel.
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03 F-250 5.4vStandard Transmission
Thought my battery was no good , so changed it. Didn't work it just kinda bumps the motor but doesn't turn over.
Thought it must be my starter then , bought a $200 starter and changed it , still doing the same thing. It did start after changing the starter but wont now.
Neutral safety switch?
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Purchased my 2012 6.7 about 3 weeks ago. Driving yesterday the CEL light came on. I took and had the code read and it was determined that EGT sensor # 4 was bad. Also how far can it be driven before it leaves you stranded since the closest dealer is 35 miles away.
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So I had an ABS light going on and off on my 05 250, finally got it read, and the computer said right front speed sensor. I changed it and the light stayed on all the time then. I had someone plug it in and drive it and the left front sensor was reading nice and flat on the graph, while the right front was spiking all over the place. I then assumed I got a bad sensor. I changed it one more time and now the light still won't go off. Now what?!
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Any way to disable the reverse sensors by maybe adding a switch to turn off power so it does not constantly go off while plowing and the sensors are snow covered? i thought maybe by just unplugging the switch would do it, but that did not work. truck is an 02 diesel with auto trans.
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