Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - Cargo Light Not Bright - Upgrade?
Feb 18, 2016
I'm in the process of doing some work on my F-250. One of the things I'm doing is wiring the cargo light to one of the upfitter switches. While I was working on it yesterday, I realized the stock cargo light in the 3rd brake light is not quite all that bright...
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Upgrading ignition coils on 5.4's? Looking to upgrade mine and only came across a few and the reviews are mixed. I am primarily looking to smooth out the idle and gain some minimal power and maybe get a flicker of a gain in mpg.
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I just bought a 2012 Ford 4x4 F250 6.2 gas, when I get out of the truck the dome light/cargo light stay on for 9 to 10 minutes before they go out, someone said to spray the door latches and this should clear up, I have tried that and the lights do still stay on, there is an error code of left rear door ajar, my guess is something/sensor or switch has to be replaced, wondering what it takes for replacement/repair of the switch
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And now for something completely different....This just started, Close either door and the dome light and cargo light stay on much longer than they used to. Timed it and they do finally go off after about 1/2 an hour. Everything else seems to be functioning ok. I searched the forums and didn't come across anything the same, however I got the impression that there is some kind of solenoid/switch that controls this function. 2002 f250 XL 4x4 Regular cab.
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I just had some custom headlights built for my truck. I have noticed if I am on low beam with fogs on, switch to high fogs go off, switch back to low, and fogs come on but highs stay engaged until I turn off fogs, the go low beam... I have heard this has happened before with other trucks and that it was called a Bambi something? And that there was a possible fix...
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I have a 99 ext cab with a 7.3. My dome and cargo lights only come on when I use the key fob to unlock the doors or when I first shut the truck off. They do not work with the dash switch or when a door opens while the truck is on. Also the doors will lock automatically when I turn the key on even when open, which it has not done before. I don't think the door switches are bad because the door ajar light only comes on when one of the doors are open and it goes off when the doors close. Here is what I have done so far. Sprayed doors with wd-40, Checked all fuses including #14. put a new relay in spot #1 in the fuse box. I am thinking either the gem or the vsm, but I'm not sure how to check either one of those or which one would be controlling that particular function.
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I have an 08 F350 regular cab 4X4 that the cargo light doesn't work, Is this powered from the interior light like the old ones? or does it get its power from the GEM module? If it comes from the GEM is it possible to feed it like the old ones from the interior dome light without killing something? I really miss having a cargo light.
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I just had a headache rack built for my truck. Looking to wire in 2 very bright reverse lights, 2 not so bright lights to deal with stuff in the bed of the truck at night, and also mounted a receiver hitch so I can hook a winch up back there when needed. looking for opinions on wiring for all of this. Never wired stuff like this so I'm shooting in the dark. My wiring skills are adequate but not great.
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This has been a problem for awhile, my pass. side headlight has gotten really dim and as a result the driver headlight has gotten really bright. I cleaned the connector up as it had some white corrosion on it but it didn't seem to work. I can move it sometimes and it will come back bright but it doesn't last long. So the question is can I do anything with what I have or do I need a new connector or pigtail?
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Two days ago I noticed that I had one of my cargo lights that didn't light up---I took the light off and the bulb was blown, and other was OK. I picked up a couple of bulbs and I replaced both of them. Now, neither one will burn. I checked the bulbs with an ohm meter--they were good---checked the #10 fuse at the passenger kick panel and all OK, but I don't have voltage at the light sockets now. If the bulbs I used were a greater wattage than the originals, would that have sent an overload signal to the SJB (smart junction box) and stopped the supply of power to the lights? I'm tempted to put it right back where I started, with the one good, used bulb and see what happens then.
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Looking to upgrade my tires and would like to go a hair bigger but nothing radical. I have the 20's now, what's the biggest size I can go to with no lift.
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I can't find any where in the owners manual on how to get the lights to turn off after the doors shut with the engine off. They stay on for a good minute after I shut the doors.
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How much better stopping power can be achieved by installing an upgrade brake kit? There are several kits on the web. Upgrade kit? Pros/Cons.
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I'm thinking of swapping my tow mirrors from my 04 F-250 for a set off an 08. My truck currently has manual windows and mirrors. What would I need to wire up the power and heated mirrors from an 08 and change my windows to auto while I'm at it?
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Looking for an aftermarket intermediate steering shaft for my 2001 f350 since the original has some play at the slip joint and u joints.
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I have a 2008 F350 Super Duty Regular cab long bed 4X4 I have no cargo light and no third Brake light, checked and even replaced bulbs. Still have no lights up top, what to check or how to fix this? Can I tie the cargo light into the dome light inside without screwing something up? I can't understand why they stopped hooking the cargo light to the dome light but this one seems to be wired separate. Would love to get these lights working again. When I bough t the truck the cargo light didn't work and I thought maybe the bulbs were burnt out, I never checked the brake light I tried to get the cargo light working and that's when I found out the brake light didn't work either.
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What all would be involved in swapping from regular ac controls to automatic climate control like the lariats have on a 2015 xlt superduty?
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Got a pretty much a bone stock 02 7.3 F-350 crew cab long bed 4x4. K&N panel air filter and 4" turbo back exhaust with no muffler or catalyitic converter/EGR sitting on 33" all terrians. My question is, i am looking to upgrade to a Garrett GTP38R turbo with a wicked wheel compressor. Will my stock injectors be ok to use or do i need to put bigger injectors in? Not looking at building a power house truck because the truck is my daily driver but want to build some good usable working power that lasts.
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I've had my 99 F250 for about 2 weeks and my SES light came on last week. I took it into AutoZone and they read the code. DPFE sensor EGR etc. The kid behind the counter mentioned something about removing those and saving some money. We don't have any emissions testing. I don't want to take any short cuts really, but if its unnecessary to have than why not delete it. I have the 5.4 and it has 189,000 miles and we did buy the truck to haul the camper so that plays into the scenario also.
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The problems that I am having at the moment are that the abs light is on from the speedometer, odometer, also the blinking overdrive light that comes on at around 25 mph. After some research I had purchased a ford factory sensor for the rear dif. I then replaced the old sensor with the factory one. Started the truck and not a single thing had changed, both the meters were not working as well as the od light was still flashing.
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Kevin here, and I'm a newbie. I recently purchased my first 4x4, a 99 F250 with ESOF. Last night I had put it in 4high for a rough road turn-around and then flipped the switch back to 2H, the 4x4 light didn't go off. Then when I got to the house (about 1/2 mile), it rolled when put in park and now it won't go into any gear.
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