Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - AC Not Working Properly / Warm Then Cold
Sep 16, 2013
I have a 1999 F250 7.3 Diesel and my AC isn't working properly. On Max AC as you're driving it would be ok and then it would be warm and then cold and then warm and then cold and so on. I've noticed that the clutch stays engaged as well. I've never seen it disengage. The freon is at the level it needs to be. Then just a few days ago, if you have it on Max and High the air disappears from the vents and you hear a noise somewhere in the dash on the passenger side. I think something might have come off?? What's wrong with my AC with it going from cold to warm constantly? I heard that maybe clutch has too big of a gap?? I have almost 200,000 miles on it.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I have 1700 miles on my truck and the A/C cycles between cold and warm air. I have taken it to 2 Ford dealers and they agree there is something wrong but their tests are apparently up to Ford specs. They logged complaints with Ford and they were told this was by design with the new trucks and it was normal for the compressor to constantly cycle. New 2013??
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I am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
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2007 F350 Dually, 6.0L
AC will blow cold, then shift to blowing warm, muggy air, then back to cold. Seems to be some relationship with throttle movement. Cruising steady ac seems normal. Multiple throttle shifts in changing traffic seems to trigger the warm air. Once accelerate back to normal cruise, can feel clutch/compressor shift and blows cold again.
Any ideas? I have read a possible cause can be the ac clutch can wear and need to remove spacers? Is this a DIY job? What about the ac clutch relay switch? On reading an online repair manual, seems that the clutch is magnetic, and if no battery power to clutch, it removes itself from compressor?
Just had an EGR delete kit installed. Any relationship to this and ac problem?
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Its a 2001 f250 with a 5,4. I just recently put a new shot block in it, the short block is a svt short block for an 01 lightning. every thing off old motor went on new svt block just fine, and it drop in just fine. only it will not warm up i let it run for 45 min the other day and on the gauge it would not come past the c. and i do believe the gauge to be accurate because the heat in the cab sucks and the top rad hose is just warm, not as hot as it should be. I've already put 2 new thermostats in it so I don't believe that to be the issue either.
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2004 F250 V10, runs good until it warms up whether it's hot or cold outside. While on freeway, it really shakes while cruising, but of you get in the gas enough for a kick down, seems to be pretty smooth. I've changed the coils, and 9 plugs (one wouldn't budge, but the others I took out looked fine) to no effect. Where else should I look? Also, no CEL, and no codes, which seems odd as bad as it feels...
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My idle goes real fast 2500 rpm special when is warm can't get idle to go down for nothing took truck to camping on dirt road with the vibration idle came back to normal and stay for while and over the soon start again. No code...
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Sunday I bought a 2001 f250/5.4 to replace my 91 f250. I didnt drive it yesterday, but this morning on my drive to work the heater was very weak, it seemed to blow warm for the most part, but was barely pushing air even on high. I flipped it over to A/C to see if it blew any harder and it did. Does the blower motor need replace? if so why does the AC blow harder than the heater?
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Truck is a 1999 F-250 with manual climate control with A/C.
Heater core issue:
Heat is not very warm after engine is fully up to temp. Would like to back flush the heater core without damaging or making it leak. How should I do this safely?
Secondly, if I do make it leak, how hard is it to change out?
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 5.4l the symptoms are when it's warm it has half power and it will stall at idle. What I have done with the truck is.
New cam phasers
new chain
new tensioners
new vct solenoids
new oil pump
new plugs
new ignition coils
new stock cam shafts
new rockers
new lash adjusters
new exhaust manifolds both sides
new muffler
oil change with the right oil
ran it with sea foam in the crankcase before oil change
new fuel pump module
new evap vent control
new abs speed sensor
I cleaned throttle body with brake cleaner ... Scanned it after a 15 min ride of having to use 2 feet to drive it. The engine codes that came up are p0022 iacv short to ground and p1000 readiness test not complete. I also got p1804 4 wheel drive high indicator circuit failure p1808 4 wheel drive low indicator circuit failure .... Not sure what else to try.
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I have a 2002 f250 superduty 5.4 4x4 around 317xxx original motor and trans. When it's cold out it won't start at all I have to use starting fluid but once started it will start right back up. Did the plugs fuel filter cleaned the intake and sensors still have a problem plenty of fuel pressure plenty of cranking amps brand new battery and Alternator. It just cranks and cranks when it's warm out fires right up. Runs smooth no lack of power or misfire no codes are being thrown also.
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I have a 2011 F250 with ac problems. When you start it in the morning and turn the ac on it only takes a small amount of time for the air to start cooling. If you turn the truck off then start it again after driving to town the ac blows hot air out up to 4 minutes (yes I timed it) before it starts cooling. I took it to a local repair shop and the first time they said it only had half the freon it needed. The charged it and off I went. Same problem. The second time they informed me the fan clutch was not engaging and replaced it. I picked it up and the first time it was turned off and back on it had the same problem. I am scheduled to take it back to the same repair shop on Monday.
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2002 F250 SD 4x4 crew cab, v10. 4x4 not working. Replaced switch on dash, not the problem. Some of told me it was the vacuum control module. Not sure where to start.
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1999, F250, SD, v10, Auto, 4x4.
My light on the overdrive is not coming on and the overdrive does not seem to be working. I had a new transmission installed a few weeks back. Wasn't working prior to this.
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2000 f250 7.3. Today I tried using the 4x4 and no light or anything. Here is what i have tried so far. Swapped the relays and also swapped them with the towing relays with no change. Not getting any voltage to the t-case shift motor at the selector switch testing between pins 2 and 3 there is 4.3 volts with switch in 2wd 2.4 volts at 4 high and 1.09 volts at 4 low. Where to go from here? it worked fine 3 days ago.
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Our 7.3 won't fire. After a few weeks of thinking we had glow plug issues on firing we feel we may have another issue instead.
In cold morning of past say -1 to -7 we have had a lot of trouble firing the old girl, we would preheat 3 or 4 times and it would wind over and over. Stop repreheat and try again and it would turn over quicker. Preheat again and it would fire.
We have a diesel leak as well and was thinking that the pressure maybe low because of it. It is now with the mechanic and he can't find the diesel leak but it pools on top of the engine and drains down the back of the motor over the belt housing.
He cleaned it all up and checked the ICP sensor and it was full of oil, he cleaned it and refuted it and it fired. He then ran it for around half an hour to see if he could spot the fuel leak, he turned it off and now it will not fire at all just turn over.
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I have been having hard shifting from 1st-2nd when cold. Rpms up to 2000 and let off then goes into 2nd. After that, she shifts fine and shifts well until next morning when she sits overnight. Build tag is August 09, 2001, so no old mechanical diode? Took a sample of fluid and it is dark red (pic attached) and smells like hydraulic fluid...I don't think it smells burned. Does it sound like the calve body 1-2 shift or solenoid pack or needing rebuild?
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When I cold start my 99 F250 7.3L PowerStroke extended cab long bed manual, I get diesel smell in & out of the cab. What is causing it?
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I have a 2008 Ford F250 with 6.4. Having alot of problems with the 4X4. Went to put the truck in 4 wheel drive one day and noticed the light on the dash never came on to engage 4X4. Of course we had a big snow storm coming and I didn't have 4 wheel drive. I drove the truck across town and decided to just try 4x4 again and it worked that time. I got the light on the dash and could hear the transfer case shift motor engage. Came out a little later and tried it and it wasn't working again. Took truck to shop where they replaced transfer case shift motor with a remaned motor from oriellys.
4x4 worked for a few weeks then just started doing the same thing again. We thought maybe that motor had problems also so had it replaced too. Truck is still doing the same stuff. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. Figured out that if its not working and I leave it in 4x4 and unhook power to shift motor then plug it back in it will engage 4x4. I've seen some post on here but sounds like everyone i've seen their motor just stops and doesn't work at all.
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1999 F250 V10 gas. I changed out the fuel pump, and now the gauge doesn't work. Checked all fuses - they're good. Is there any possibility that I could have accidentally pinned the float under the pickup sock, or got it hung somewhere? Is this a common occurrence? Don't really want to drop the tank again - but looks like I will have to in order to check/fix.....
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