When you turn the headlight switch to the headlight on position, you can pull it out exhibiting a positive click as if it is an additional switch for maybe optional fog lights. If the headlight switch is in the off or running lights only position, this will not pull out. I reviewed the elect. diagram but it does not show and addition circuit for the pull switch functionality?
View 4 RepliesMy 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
View 13 RepliesI have a pedal pulsation, steering wheel shimmy, and pull to the right when the brakes are applied in my truck. It is a 2009 F250 4x4 gas V8. I just replaced the pads, rotors, and calipers on the front and that's when the problem started. It definitely gets worse with speed too. I replaced the calipers because the right one had seized up and the left one looked to be on the way. There are no odd noises and the wheel bearing doesn't feel like there is any play in it. What this could be?
View 1 Replies1999 F250 SD 4x4 7.3 PSD ... My truck has 198K miles on it. It pulls to the left as I drive it. So I took it to a shop to have the alignment checked. They told me that the front outer tie rod was bad and needed to be replaced. And of course they said they needed to put in a set of caster camber bushings to do the alignment. They quoted $400 to change the tie rod out. I said I would do that. They gave me the print out from the alignment but reading it the only thing that was out was the toe. Left tire was toe out and the right tire was toe in, which to me would cause it to pull to the left.
I got under the truck and the steering link, piece that goes from steering box to right side/tie rod, is not tight...I can move it up and down and it clunks when I roll it up. I have a clunking noise when I drive it and go over bumps also. Could this be the clunking noise? Also, if I replaced the ends of the steering link, that would tighten up but possibly push the steering back to the right some to straighten out the tires? I have read alot of threads talking about the clunking being tied to the sway bar bushings being bad but the clunking I get by rolling the steering link up and down sounds alot like the noise I am hearing.
Also, when looking at the axles where they go into the knuckle, there is a loose plastic ring on both sides. Is this part of the dust shield or an oil seal?
My '99 truck doesn't have fog lights installed, but the headlight switch pulls out. Is there a way to add fog lights and have the headlight switch activate them? Is there something pre-wired, yet untapped? I don't want to start adding extra switches.
View 1 RepliesThe illumination for my headlight switch and my shift-on-the-fly switch is not working. How do I replace the bulbs?
View 1 RepliesMy aftermarket bumper deleted my fog lights and I added some spotlights on the bumper. I just wired the spotlights to the fog light wiring. My switch is now messed up and I just want to wire the spotlights to a separate switch. What wires control the fog lights on the back of the headlight switch? Will I have to wire in a new hot wire to the new switch or does the headlight switch have separate hots for the headlights and foglights?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 F-350 V8. The bed has been removed and it has a small dump body. This is the problem that just randomly started with my lights:
The headlights, dome lights, and tail light illuminate - the rear lights do not illuminate when the headlight switch is on. Otherwise, the brake lights work, the reverse lights work, the four ways work, and the turn signals work.
I checked the ground and believe it to be okay - What am I missing and where do I start?
I dont want to pry on the wrong thing and brake something. I am trying to remove the headlight. I was told that their are some pins that need to be pulled up. I dont see any pins. I do see two plastic clips on each side of the headlight. They are flat on the top with a small slot in them. There is a "T" stamped on the top of it. Are these the pins? I tried to find a shop manual today without much luck. Looking for a picture to show the pins that need to be removed.
View 7 Replies2006 F250 and my passenger light was out. I thought it was a bad bulb and I wanted to upgrade anyway so I bought some Slyvania Ultra headlights. Pulled out the old bulb and it didn't appear to be broken, but I installed the new upgraded lights anyway. Still not coming on. I tried the hi beams and still nothing. Got an electrical probe to test the wires and still no juice. Where the wires run to so I can try to find the break in the line? I'm assuming there is not a seperate fuse for the passenger side...On a side note when I went hunting a few weeks ago I had some kind of animal make a nest under the hood, its possible a mouse/rat/squirrel ate my headlight wire, but the nest was in the top center of the engine by the turbo and oil filter.
View 6 Replies2002, F250, 5.4L, ZF-6 trans.
Ok...today by accident turned the key with the truck in gear and clutch not depressed...much to my surprise the truck tried to start and lurched forward.
Is this a sign of a failing clutch safety switch or Could it be an ignition switch problem? Anything else that I am not thinking of?
Just picked up a 2001 Gas F250 4X4 XLT. Everything seems to work except for the electric windows and ABS. I pulled both window switches and cannot find any voltage on the Blue/black cables. I jumped 12v to the drivers side switch and the windows work up and down even in auto. I have voltage at the 30a circuit breaker in the PDB but nothing at fuse #7 in the PCFP. I've checked for voltage at another connector with a Blue/black cable and found nothing. I'm thinking bad cable or GEM. I have noticed that the bell system doesn't sound when you have the key in the off position with the door open if that matters.
View 14 RepliesI went to replace a headlight bulb and now I lost electric in the cab. I have no interior lights, no power window or door locks, turn the key on, no crank, no cluster, no radio, no chimes, the upfitter switches work, the mirrors power fold and telescope. Have power to both fuse boxes and battery is fully charged.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2008 f250 with 6.4. Was sitting my truck with key on and motor off listening to radio on lunch and my wipers came on by themselves. Switch was in off position and we're in slow speed. If I turn switch they wouldn't change speed til high position. Turned key off and back on and they came on still. Pulled 30 amp fuse in battery junction box to shut them off.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 f250 6.0 diesel and my passenger window switch died today and I switched it with a known good switch and it still does not work but will work from drivers side .the switch doesn't even light up. Looking for a diagram or know the colours of the wires to switch Soni can test to see if the switch is getting power??
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 F250 4x4 and the ESOF switch not engaging hubs, currently I have no 4x4 lights coming on in the cluster when i turn the switch. I am not experiencing any of the vaccum symptoms that most people are suggesting. I When I turn the switch i also do not hear any relays clicking. Relays have been tested, and i waited for the 45 second transfer delay that the manual mentions. ESOF switch has power, and is working properly (I know because I bought a new one in attempt to fix the problem) Basically I have no responses from any of my 4x4 indicators or parts.
View 14 RepliesHeadlights work well w/ ignition switch off. High/low/passing all ok. When I turn the ignition switch on, there's a strange wheezing sound for a second.
When the ignition switch is on, there are no headlights.
What's the wheezing sound? Why does the power to the switch quit with the key on? The more I work on modern trucks, the more I like my 1968 f-250.
I just ordered a set of Hella 4000x driving lights for my 2006 F-250. I have an aftermarket bumper on it, so the fog lights were taken out as there was no place to put them once the new bumper was installed. The question is, will I have any issues hooking the new driving lights up directly to the fog light system so I can just run them off the fog light switch instead of having to install the new switch on my dashboard? I know the new lights are 12V, but I couldn't find info as to whether the fog lights were running 12V as well.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 F250 super duty. I use it for work so I am not sure what happened to it as others have driven it, but here is the issue. When i start it up in 2wd, the 4x4 Low light flashes continually. If I turn the switch to 4x4 high, the 4x4 high light flashes continually. if i turn it to 4x4 low, that light flashes continually. I have read the forums but haven't been able to find the problem/diagnosis for this.
View 2 RepliesI need to replace, its either a brake pressure sensor or speed control deactivation switch . Would like to know which it is and can I get a generic one from other auto parts beside a ford dealer Can post a pic of part as soon as I figure out how to do that exactly. 2002 f250 super duty....
View 8 RepliesLast week I flipped the fan switch on and noticed that only hot air was coming from the vents, even with the control set to AC. The vent control switch seems to work fine directing the air but only hot air. The temperature control does not work. The exception is when I put it on max AC I get cold air. I can't be the only one.
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