Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 6.8 V10 Not Turning Over
May 27, 2017
Ok i have a 99 f250 with a 6.8 v10 that is not turning over at all. I have checked the battery and its good. I have replaced the starter and the starter relay and have tested the starter and its good too. I have also used a volt meter on the batter, starter, and relay and looked at the relevant info and they are all in the correct volt range. I have also taken the starter off and looked at the flywheel and it has good teeth so thats not an issue. I am completely stumped now as to what it could be?
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My trouble is upon turning key to start everything goes dead (no power to anything). Does not always happen, sometimes she starts just fine.
After the power cut out if I turn key off, wait a minute, then back to on position she will sometimes come back as normal or sometimes the on "ding" will chatter and dash lights will be dim.
I have checked batt connections, starter/solenoid connections, block ground connection. All seems fine. Get same problem when I jump starter with screwdriver. Been suggested to me ignition switch to blame.
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I have a 2002 ford f250 superduty and when I have my headlight switch set to auto to come on when it gets dark they will for awhile and then my headlights will turn off for no reason.
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I have a 2004 f250 with some front end troubles. When turning right once in a while it will make a hard CLUNK noise and then trying to drive down the street it drifts over to the left and I pull the wheel back to the right and when I turn the wheel it feels like I like theres something hitting somthing else in the front end. I have checked ball joints and tie rods and they are all nice and tight. Some stuff I have done that probably isn't related to my problem is shocks and sway bar end links. What this could be? Hopefully not the steering box!
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My 01 F-250's wipers would not shut off. As soon as the key was turned on they would come on. No delay but high and low only. Had to pull the fuse to drive it. I replaced the multi function switch as well as the relay with no fix. I did some reading on this problem and it is related to the "park" switch in the wiper motor itself. I took the black plastic cover off the motor which reveals the worm gear driving the plastic gear which acts as the switch.
The contacts for this switch are hard to get to as they are on the backside. I blew compressed air into every little crevice and removed most of the grease. I regreased and put it back together. Sure enough the wipers work just fine now. I am assuming the compressed air trick may be only temporary. Need to reveal the contacts for the park motor switch without destroying the plastic housing?
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I have a 2000 F250 SD with the V10 engine. The problem that I am having with it as of late is that whenever I perform a full turn I hear some clunking coming from the front end. The clunking is similar to that heard from cars that use CV joints FWD but of course it sound more "manly"
Anyways, my truck has the full axle on front so I suppose it could be either the u-joint at the hub or the hub itself. I would like some pointers so I can acquire the required parts.
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Have an 03 f250 6.0L and the tie rod from pitman arm moves easily and there isn't a steering stabilizer, noise got worse after I put new tires on front but it's a loud clunk that I can feel. I've replaced the sway bar bushings and end links. Would the worn tired rod make that noise or would it be ball joints?
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I have a '16 F250 4wd with the 6.7 and approx 3k miles. There has been a strange sound coming from the front end when turning left from a stoplight. It sounds like something slides or shifts and it only happens once in a while. The noise isn't loud but you can feel it.
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I have a 2002 F250 diesel, the key will turn to acc. but not on. It feels like it is hitting something in the column. I tried moving the shifting lever back and forth with my foot on the break, as I turned the key but it would not turn. I am thinking the tumblers are OK because it goes into acc. It feels like their is some lever that is not releasing the shift lever, because if I turn the key hard the shift lever jumps. What is wrong, or how the interface between the lock tumbler and the shift lever works?
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I bought a 2004 F250 Crew Cab LB 4x4 with the 5.4 Motor and when I turn left it has some Tight Spots and I can't figure out why, I checked the Drive axles to make sure the locking hubs were unlocked and they spun freely, I Also have a lot of play in the steering wheel, Could this all be Related to the Steering Box? What else should I check for ?
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Only got a click when turning key, in Park or Neutral. Made sure I had >12.4V from battery. Jumped starter solenoid with a remote start switch across main power line to starter and the 's' post, crank pulley almost moved, but didn't rotate. Removed belt, all pulleys rotate, but could not budge the crank pulley with a short breaker bar/socket, rotating clockwise from front. Removed starter, that upper bolt is a super pain! Not even sure I'll get it back in. Jumped starter solenoid again on the bench using a battery and jumpers, not the best connections, starter hesitated little bit, but opened up fully a few times, so I'm thinking it's ok (even though the power line from the solenoid to starter motor needs re-taping). Tried rotating flywheel from starter hole, no good leverage point, but no movement. Before I re-install the starter, how much torque should I be putting on the front crank pulley? Some say it should move easy enough cause the starter isn't that powerful. Others say remove the spark plugs to reduce compression? This truck is new to me, so I unfortunately have no history.
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I had some steering issues with my truck so took it for an evaluation at pep boys. They recommended a new steering gear box and tie rod that hooks to the pitman arm so I had them replace them. Steering was improved but now the wheel is canted to the left or right depending on when I make a turn. When I make a left turn, the wheel is canted about 10 o'clock. When I make a right turn, it's canted about 1 o'clock.
I looked under and had my brother turn the wheel and didn't really notice any thing loose. I lifted the front and noticed the left wheel bearings need to be replaced. I also noticed the shocks were shot and replaced them but it didn't make a difference in the crooked wheel.
Do you think it's the wheel bearing that can cause this? How about the ball joints? The truck has 407k miles and I bought it a month ago. Previous owner said he never replaced any steering components. Should I just replace all steering components with the Moog kit? I'd like to hold off on the $600+ kit for now as I just bought a a boat and the boat needs some stuff. I hope to find that one thing (hopefully not more) that's loose.
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2007 F250 SD Crew Cab Long Bed 4X4 with 6.0. Bulletproofed, leveling springs, 5k firestone airbags, upgraded brakes, new front driveshaft and new universals and carrier bearing on rear u joint.
The issue: When accelerating from a stop or a slow rolling start, turning right or left, I get a shimmy (vibration) that seems to be coming from under my feet. Not a violent shimmy, but enough to make me certain that something is loose or out of alignment in the drivetrain. IT IS NOT THE REAR END as friends have constantly told me. Rear end was serviced and cluth packs lubricated with no change in issue.
What I've done: Changed transfer case fluid, new front driveshaft, new u joints and carrier bearing on rear driveshaft. There has been no improvement after these repairs, if anything the vibration is a little worse and easier to induce.
I've been chasing this problem for over a year. Going to be pulling a Toy Hauler out west this falls and really need to repair this for my piece of mind..
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2000 V10 F250 - daughter is using my truck and called to tell me the turn signals weren't working. She called me shortly after and said she adjusted the tilt and hazard lights came on and now she can't turn them off. I had her pull the hazard fuse to stop them. She then noticed the brake light weren't working. I don't know if the brake lights were because she pulled the fuse or she just noticed they weren't working.
A week or two ago, she said she parked the truck, turned it off and took the keys. When she came back out, the truck had rolled across the street. Periodically, over the years, I would go to start the truck and nothing happened. I would shift the gear selector in and out of drive. Then the truck started.
Finally, since I've owned the truck, the when I activated the left turn signal, the selector frequently wouldn't stay "locked" till I turned. So, are these related? Do I have multiple issues going on in the steering column. Where to start looking when she gets the truck home?
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I have a 2001 Ford F-250 with the gas v-10. Yesterday it started just fine as always. Today I get into it and it starts to turn over just fine then starts to make a grinding sound and the truck won't start. I have had a fuel issue in the mornings with once it started you had to barely press the gass to keep it running. But never makes a funny sound and always runs fine. This only last for a couple of min and then it runs fine for the rest of the day. The grinding is not the starter. I took it off and had it checked and it was fine.
The truck had been using oil. When I checked the oil level it was low but it was still on the stick. "I know a motor needs oil to run smooth but it's my dads truck and well let's just say he is not the best on maintenance". Also I smelled the oil and it does have a gas smell to it. So it definitely does have some gas in the oil. I tried to light the dipstick with a lighter and it wouldn't light. So not sure how much gas is in it but that's what I did.
So the question is, would something just in mid crank go bad and then not let the motor crank. Truck made no weird noises before this so I find it hard to believe the barrings just went out in mid crank and now it is shot.
Also I just checked compression on front cylinders.
Driver side read 75lbs
passenger side read 100lbs
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I have a 2003 f250 superduty v-10 -- 4x4 -- when turning with 4wheel drive disengaged I have consistent thumping sound coming from front end -- more so when turning to left but still prevalent on right turns -- I put new hubs in due to the grinding noise when driving slow to mid speeds -- like axles not totally disengaging and grinding on teeth. but this is a secondary noise -- replaced left front axle with dorman unit -- tried to replace u joints on oe axle but rusted so badly couldn't get c clips to separate from ujoints --
this one is kicking my butt and making me look like a novice -- don't think it is ball joints or anything suspension related but I could be wrong -- sounds like thump thump thump as turning in slightly tight circle or going around corner in the parking lot.
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Just noticed something funny yesterday while flushing my radiator. I have an 04 F350 with the 6.0. When I have the heat set to come out both high and low vents, the A/C compressor also kicks on. The pipes by the passenger side firewall get cold. If I set the heat to just come out high or low, it turns off. This is not with the defroster on. Why does this happen? Is it supposed to happen?
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I'd like to be able to have the key in the ignition and still have the door open without the incessant dinging of the key alert. Is there any way of shutting it off without having to cut wires, etc.?
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Have my truck in signature making a very high pitched, annoying squeak from the front end. I believe it is coming from the right side because i just took the wheel off and it has a coating of brake dust on it (the 3 other wheels are clean). Only makes the noise when turning right at speed, and goes away when i straight it out or hit the brakes. I am not very good with brakes or the front end parts.. what could be causing this noise? Could the slide pins be frozen? i know that is a problem with these trucks... but not sure if these are the symptoms.
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Before I climb on the ground and go over the front (there is snow on the ground and I am still like 26 days from owning my first home and having a garage FINALLY.) Very recently the truck started to make a little low pop noise and you can feel it in the steering wheel a little bit, when I turn sharply, almost to the stop by not completely and it will start. Not dumb when it comes to vehicles, but new to these trucks so always good to ask for common problems first!
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All of the sudden ignition stays on aux when the key is removed. Starts and runs fine with key , also shuts off with key. However when key is removed all aux functions still work ie touchscreen reciever will not turn off, and door chime continues to ding. 2000 excursion 4x4
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