Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 6.0L 5R110W - Changing Transmission Fluid?
Oct 8, 2010
So I'm off work today, and want to service the transmission. I've got both filters, and a 18 quarts of SP, but am not familiar with this transmission, and understand there's no drain plug for the converter. Want to get all of the fluid out, best I can. I'm at 153,000 on this truck with no issues. I do not desire to flush, just want a fluid change.
Searching the forums brings up a lengthy list of transmission threads, but nothing yet that gives me the step-by-step.
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I just bought this Super Duty with a 5.4L engine. I want to do a fluid change on the transmission. From what I read, this transmission needs to be hot flushed in order to change out all the fluid. I have not called my dealer yet to see if they do hot flushes. If my local dealer does not have this machine, can I just drop the old fluid from the pan and be ok? I have not gotten under the truck yet to see if it has an external filter.
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time to change the tranny fluid and filters on my 2010 F250. nothing in my owners manual about this.
All the parts look up places say I need 2 filters, the internal (FT-180) and an external (FT-145).
Problem is that I cannot seem to find the location of the external filter.
Doing some research, it looks like mid-08 the external was eliminated. So, do I have just the internal or do I have the 2?
Regarding the fluid. If I use the Maxlife dex/merc that says meets the LV spec, will that be ok to mix with whatever is in there now? (assuming LV, but I bought used with 145k on it, no idea if its been serviced before and if so, with what).
Going to check with dealer about the hot flush machine, but I really doubt they have one, and I'm kinda concerned about doing a flush at 150K not knowing the history of it.
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Was going to change my transmission fluid and filter today but when I got under the truck to see what tools I needed, I was not sure I could drop the pan enough to get it off.
I have a 2009 V10 4X4 and the exhaust pipe catalytic are running down each side right under where the transmission pan is. It looks like I can get to all the bolts, but because of the catalytic are right under the flange of the pan on each side, the pan will not be able to drop straight down. It looks like it may drop about 3 inches before it hits the catalytic.
Will that be enough to slide the pan forward or maybe tilt it to get it out? Has anyone dropped the pan on their 4X4 with the 5RW100? Just looking to have someone say I can get it out before I try it.
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1999 F250 SD... Tranny fluid is low, tranny slipped one time on me. I checked the fluid and it's low. No drips on the garage floor, so I'll have to inspect closer. But my question is can I add new fluid without screwing it up even more? It's got 170,000 miles and I doubt the fluid has ever been changed. I just bought the truck last week, so I can't say for sure, but it hasn't had a regular flush or change. It doesn't smell burnt but it's just a little darker than new fluid. I was told by the guy I bought it from that the torque converter was changed in it not too long ago.
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I've done all the fluid but the power steering and the coolant. I'd like to change out the power steering fluid in my 08' F350. What fluid do I need ?
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Background 2006 F350 5.4L 3V, 4WD, K&N CAI, Superchips tuner, 3.73 gears, Jett MAF, 215,000mi.
My issue is I have a shift problem from 3-5. This doesn't happen when I'm granny driving, only under a hard acceleration. The problem is the tranny doesn't seem like it wants to upshift. RPM goes up but the truck doesn't accelerate unless I let off the gas. I have changed the fluid and filters every 20k since I got the truck (150k). This problem came up after I changed my fluid and filter a couple days ago.
This time I changed to Mercon LV because I couldn't find Mercon SP (which is okay according to ford TSB). I used Valvoline max life ATF which said it was Mercon LV compliant. So is this the fluid type (multi ATF, Mercon LV compliant) or a bad solenoid from my understanding it would be the direct drive solenoid? Or am I SOL?
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Actually a couple of questions. I've had one oil change in my F250 6.7. Getting close to the second one. So, my question is, what is the computer using to decide when to tell you that you should change the oil? And, if you changed to a synthetic oil, could you go longer between changes? And, if so, would the truck's sensors be able to tell the difference in the type of oil being used?
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Just moved into the 250 from years of 150's. Now have 98 miles and read that the tran would have noise but normal while breaking in.
whats normal, not used to this much Clunk while changing from P to D ect. More noise than used too I guess.
3.73 gears
2014 F250, 6.2 gas 2wd....
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I just bought a used 2013 F-250 4x4 and it came with the snow plow pkg. heavy duty front springs. I love the truck, but won't be plowing with it, and I don't need the rough ride (and don't like the look of the front end higher than the rear)
How hard is it to swap out the front coil springs and replace them with the "regular" ones?
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Any luck changing the external transmission fluid filter, without breaking it or its piping?
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Changing from manual windows to power? I don't want to swap doors because of the repaint issue but wondered what is involved, if it's even possible. I just read how to convert the rear windows on a Super Cab to power and it got me wondering about the front.
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My 2004 F250 has been having issues with the radio. Its been randomly changing stations and volume. I think its due to moisture in the dash. Its stops when I run the heater thru the dash vents.
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My 1999 F-250 wont start unless I use a squirt of fluid but once started it will run fine could this be my cam sensor or do I have an injector problem.
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On the surface, the F-250/350 seems to have great brakes: big rotors, vented front and rear, and dual-piston calipers front and rear. But, I have two problems:
One is the annoying 'grunt' the brakes make every time you change from Park to Drive, or Park to Reverse, or Drive to Reverse. Its as if under normal brake pressure, the brakes cannot hold the truck from moving against the torque convertor engaging. It's not just my truck, I've heard older SD's with the 5.4L or diesel do this too. If you push the pedal really hard, it won't grunt.
The second problem I think is the root of the first: mushy brakes. Maybe I'm just used to driving european cars with firm brakes, but every time I apply my truck's brakes, it feels like I need to bleed the system! The truck does slow pretty well, and I realize it's heavy, but how can the pedal feel be improved? Maybe replacing the rubber sections with braided stainless?
Lastly, the truck has a 'hill-hold' feature which is retarded in an automatic transmission. My problem with it, is that sometimes it sticks on...engage drive, the truck won't move...a second later its like something gets unstuck and the truck kind of lurches forward.
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I have a 99 f250 with some procomp (325s) that are 12.5 wide with a 6in lift my superchip tuner can change the trannys shift points but I am pretty sure a new gear ratio is needed. I dont do a whole lot of off roading with it its mainly my driving around and highway rig whats a good gear ratio that would work for me
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My truck is a 2008 F250 6.4 Powerstroke 4x4 King Ranch, CrewCab, Shortbed.
I don't know which rear axle ratio it has - maybe someone can help me. the tires mounted are 275/60R17 and in fifth gear (TC locked) the engine has 2000rpm @ 70mph. I think it is a bit to much so I want to install a kit with and lower ratio. I pull trailers just sometimes and here in germany these only have 3,5tons max weight. So I think I don't need this power at 70mph. 1750rpm would be enough. How do I have to modify the front axle ratio if I get a lower-ratio-rear-axle?
I want to lower the fuel consumption. After some modifications, the truck needs round about 12-13L/100km (18-20mpg) and I think it is possible to lower this as bit.
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I have 460 7.5L gasoline engine on a RV. After driving 300 miles straight and the front start smoking and I pulled over and saw the transmission fluid just shooting out from right in front of the trans oil pan, hot and steaming. Also saw the trail of oil a mile from where I stopped. All oil are gone. Next day go back and put in 2.5 gallons of oil until I see the oil dripping down the bottom. Drove to Aamco transmission, 12 miles down in 20 min. Nothing happen, not a drop coming out.
I left it there in the parking lot on Sunday. Today the shop called and said they found nothing wrong. They said I just overfill it and they drain down 1.5 quart, it is all fine now. Then I told them the story. I said the oil were shooting out and all empty out. I put in 2.5 gallons , not quarts. They said it didn't make any sense. I don't know what to tell them. The RV is still in his shop and he said he will look at it more and see what he find.
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I am scared. The cooling fluid of my 2000 F-250 is brownish. I am not sure if it is Oil, which would be bad. Is there a way that I can find out what it is? I'd like to get an opinion of my own before I take it to a repair shop.
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I have a quick question. I am gonna change the fluid in my 01 f250 rear end. it has 410 gears and a limited slip diff. if i use full synthetic gear oil do i have to add the limited slip additive or just the 75w-140 full synthetic gear oil.
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2004 f250 wipers and fluid not working Done the usual stuff checked the fuses in the cab and the 15amp fuse is good and the 30 amp fuse is good. Is there something under the hood i should look at?
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