My 1997 F250, 4x4, 460, auto has started dying with no warning while driving from 5 to 30 miles. Changed the fuel filter and the fuse under the hood. Where to start.
View 14 RepliesMy 2002 F250 7.3 randomly dies while driving and seems to only be when I hit a bump no matter the size. I have checked the valve cover harness connector outside of the valve covers and they look fine. I checked the ECM connection took it off and reconnected it.
Changed the CPS censor twice, checked the ICP sensor, checked continuity of all the glow plugs through the valve cover harness. Checked the fuel pump, checked all related fuses, changed the fuel filter, checked glow plug relay, batteries hold good voltage and were recently upgraded to bigger batteries.
Engine runs just a little rough but not enough to be of concern. Air filter is clean and oil level is perfect. What could possible be causing my truck to randomly die when it hits a bump and not start back right away??? This truck is new to me and its the first diesel engine I have ever owned.
I have an 03 f250 5.4l that I've been having some problems with. When the engine is cold it will drive fine and everything. When it warms up, if I go to put it in gear it just dies right away. Why?
View 1 RepliesMy 'new' 2004 F250 ExtCab SB w/5.4L sometimes 'drops' my keyless entry (key fob) for no apparent reason. Also, when I attempt to do the 'eight turns' of the ignition to get into program mode, it doesn't always work the first time (or second, or third, etc). Is this a common problem?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford F-350 with the V10 4x4. I was backing out of the driveway and it just died. I stopped put the truck into park and it wouldn't crank. The dash lights up and everything else works but the truck will not crank. I continued to attempt to start it and eventually it turned over and ran. It has been doing this intermittently for a couple months but never this bad. I've taken it to mechanics and nobody has been able to rectify.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 f250 super duty extended cab with the v10. Over the past week it has been running fine and it will all of a sudden lose power and dies. I've been able to start it back up once right away and a few times it started up after a few hours of messing with it.
So, after the truck dies it will crank and crank but will not start. We have checked fuel pressure and nothing. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump and it turns on. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box and got a fuel pressure reading of 40 psi. But when we crank we have no pressure.
When we apply direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box the truck will only crank and not start.
We have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
I am getting this check gas cap warning on the dash. I checked the cap, looks ok... Should I disconnect the battery for a minutes.. and see if it comes back?
View 4 RepliesHow to do this, or have had it done? I do have 35x12.50x18's on it. I did go to the tire center here in my town to have them reprogram it but only worked for a few to a week cant remember.
View 13 Replies I've had the truck for almost a year. It had 2900mi when I bought it. It's got 18k on it now. A few weeks ago I stopped to get the mail and the dash started going crazy throwing every warning you could think of. I got back in and all the codes were gone. I figured it was a fluke until last week. It did it again. I let it run for a few minutes and decided to turn it off. It wouldn't start back up right away. After about 20min, it started and I drove straight to the dealer.
They had it for 2 days, cleared all the codes and couldn't replicate it. They said the codes were U codes and not real codes?? The next morning it did the same thing again. I took it back and after 3 days, they said they could only think that my AMP Powersteps were the cause. They disconnected the steps and wanted to keep it for a few more days. I said no and picked it back up. It made it 2 days and I got the codes again.
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Went to start my 99 F250 SD this morning and I got a series of 5 warning beeps. Kept repeating this for 5-6 times? What's up with that?
View 3 RepliesI have a annoying check coolant additive warning light that wont go away, is their another way to turn off the light other than the button on the steering wheel? I have searched the forum but have had no luck, my coolant level is at it's proper level.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1994 F-250 XLT heavy duty model. No warning lights are on. A few times a month my transmission will start shifting hard, kicking into the next gear. The odd thing is, if I reset the computer it stops. Shifts smooth as butter. The fluid is a vibrant red and the fluid looks great like it's new. What is going on? I'm getting tired of having this happen. The truck has 108,500 miles on it.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2013 F250 and to day the TPMS light came on with a low tire warning message. A little back history, I put new tires on the truck when I bought it and they currently have 9200 miles on them. I didn't like having the tires at the 80psi the tire shop set them at so I lowered them to 62psi right away and haven't had any issues with the low pressure warning going off. Today I was backing into a parking spot and the warning light came on with a low tire message. I checked all the tires and they were right where they should be, but when I got home I added another 5psi to see what would happen and the light never went off after taking it on a 10 mile drive.
My question is, do I have a wheel sensor issue or is something messed up in the computer? I know the door sticker says 75psi front/80rear, but I've been running the tires at 62psi for 9200 miles without trouble so I can't think that the pressure is the culprit. Also, does the spare tire have a sensor in it? In the manual in one paragraph it seemed like it does, but in the next it said that the spare doesn't have one so the light will stay on to remind you to change the spare out.
2010 F-250. the tire pressure warning light is on and the cruise is not working. Verified all TPMS sensors are working and sending signal with the reprogramming tool. using my scan tool, I got several U codes saying there is no communication with the instrument panel control module. I have cleared the codes, they did not return immediately and the problem persists.
View 2 RepliesI've got a 99 f250 5.4 that runs like a top. In the last 6 months I've been chasing a little problem. It doesn't happen all the time but seem to be happen more and more. While driving any speed If I let off the gas the RPM's hold at around 1500 then surges down to 1000 then back up again to 1500.
Does that 2 to 4 times then all good. Give it gas again it does it again. It kind of does it when it wants. Could be fine for a trip around then next trip it acts up again. Checked a lot of the vacuum lines, PVC valve and replaced the idle control next to the EGR valve. EGR is next.
Idles and runs fine except the surge thing..
P0401 code as well.
While driving down the road the truck will just cut off. We wait a few mins and start it again can drive a few miles and it cuts off again. we have replaced the ignition coils and it is still doing this. No codes are coming up to get any idea what it can be?
View 14 RepliesI have a question about my 2001 Ford F250 and the scary road sway I experience on the highway.
I thought it was the garbage and nearly bald tires and the fact that the fronts were bigger than the back, (Previous Owner). I went and got new E rated 265's from Discount Tire.
It actually made the swat feel worse. I thought maybe the tire guys inflated them all to 80 PSI as the sidewalls indicated. I check today and found that they went with the recommended PSI on the door sticker. 60 Front and 80 rear. But this is for the Tire size listed on the sticker.
After the tires cooled here at home I increased the PSI to 80 all the way around. I am having trouble finding my specific problem even though there is a lot of talk in many forums about this issue.
If this does not work should I try lower PSI in the rears and leave the front at 80? Should I try a front steering stabilizer shock? I did tighten up the steering box and took the minor slop out of it, Not is just makes it respond to the sway correction quicker.
OK, not sure where to start so here goes. I have an 02' f-250 with the v-10. I just had some minor front end body work done and when I got it back I noticed that it just didn't feel right while driving. When I start it, I notice a small misfire while I stand next to the exhaust outlet. Nothing too bad, still runs great. Shortly thereafter I started noticing a more habitual missing while driving. Roughly between 30-40 mph and around 12-1500 rpm the truck feel like the driveline is about to pickle fork the truck. If I let off the gas or step on it, the vibration goes away. And very intermittent.
It will only do it when the truck is warmed up. If I only drive about a mile, it won't do it, yet if I turn around and head back, there it is! Now the weird part. I for reasons I won't get into, I left my ignition on and drained the battery. I just replaced it and for the last 2 days nothing. Nt even a misfire. Now today here it is again. I have read all over the forums for this exact problem and cannot find my exact problem. I have replaced the plugs with Autolites and cleaned the coils as well as the boots and applied a small amount of dielectric grease to the top of the plug. The boots are cleaned and not a sign of cracking or wear.
I replaced the PCV valve and nothing. All the plugs looked exactly the same. Light chocolate in color. Not one looked different than the other. I took them out again last week to verify the plugs weren't bad and the new ones all looked the same as well. I cleaned the MAF sensor also. Just cannot figure out what could be doing this all of the sudden. I don't see where anything wasn't plugged back together when it was being worked on and why would a new battery make it go away for a short time? Oh, and lastly, I have a superchips programmer that came with the truck and there are no codes showing and my check engine light has never came on yet.
I have a 2000 f250 7.3 powerstroke. I bought the truck with 218000 miles on it, I have only put 1000 on it. I have had some issues with. The cps went out of it, and it wouldn't start until u replaced it. I have a Ts chip on it and cold air intake. It will not start after a cold night, it starts fine if I plug it in. It also lopes, or misses no matter the temperature outside. Also, it will blow a steady flame when you get on it. Finally, it also gets hot, smoke will come from the turbo after driving it for a while, no matter how you drive it.
View 2 RepliesI was driving my 99 f250 superduty and out of no where it sounded like i had blown a tire started to shake for at least 3 or 4 seconds pulled to the side of the road got out and check tires were good, got back on the road with no more problem.
View 1 Replies