Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 4wd - Shimmy At Around 65 To 75 MPH When Going Downhill Only?
Oct 9, 2013
My 1999 F250 has a pretty good shimmy at around 65 to 75 but only when going down hill. It seems to intensify on the steeper grades. I am thinking possibly not enough caster and when going down hill the geometry changes enough to start the shimmy. It will subside as soon as it levels out. Up hill or level it drives fine and is smooth and steers well. It has the solid front 4wd axle....
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
2007 F250 SD Crew Cab Long Bed 4X4 with 6.0. Bulletproofed, leveling springs, 5k firestone airbags, upgraded brakes, new front driveshaft and new universals and carrier bearing on rear u joint.
The issue: When accelerating from a stop or a slow rolling start, turning right or left, I get a shimmy (vibration) that seems to be coming from under my feet. Not a violent shimmy, but enough to make me certain that something is loose or out of alignment in the drivetrain. IT IS NOT THE REAR END as friends have constantly told me. Rear end was serviced and cluth packs lubricated with no change in issue.
What I've done: Changed transfer case fluid, new front driveshaft, new u joints and carrier bearing on rear driveshaft. There has been no improvement after these repairs, if anything the vibration is a little worse and easier to induce.
I've been chasing this problem for over a year. Going to be pulling a Toy Hauler out west this falls and really need to repair this for my piece of mind..
View 1 Replies
I have a 2001 F250 HD gas engine. I have had this truck since 2010. I drive it only occasionally and had not driven it in a few weeks so decided to drive it the other day. I drove about 30 minutes with about half of that on the interstate. It was a fairly hot day mid 80s and I had the AC running. I parked it at a very slight forward downhill position. When I came out after 45 minutes, I saw a puddle of antifreeze in front of the vehicle. When I looked underneath the truck it was primarily dripping from the oil filter canister but also from a couple of other places. I was down about 4 inches in the reservoir. My small truck camper is on the vehicle and I had my coolant container in there.
I topped it off and traveled about 10 minutes on surface streets to my next stop.After about two hours there I came out to the truck to leave and there was not a drop. I then drove 25 minutes home with a little on the interstate running the AC and when I got home not a drop. I got up underneath it and looked all around and couldn't really see an obvious source. My neighbor is a mechanic of sorts and I asked him about it. He had a couple of theories but one involved the heater. He said to crank it up, let it warm up, and turn the heat on and see if I smelled anti-freeze. I did that and there was not a smell at all. He also said something about a cold leak.
View 4 Replies
Can't figure it out, I have a shimmy at 45 and up, but not all the time. I have had the whole front end apart for other reason, but the wobble is still there not as often though. Here is what I have done so far.
Left wheel bearing had play in it, replaced that, while that was off checked all ball joints no play at all, remove axle shaft replaced all seals on it inspected u joint in excellent shape. removed right hub because it will not hold vacuum removed axle on right replaced all seals and inspected joint it was fine, ball joints fine also. EOSF now works as designed
Found left front caliper seized replaced and retested ok
Cleaned inspected and relubed auto locking hubs.
Checked all the steering components they are tight except sway bar links make noise over bumps taking care of that this week. Most of the time the truck runs smooth as silk no wander in steering or nothing but then I will just shimmy out of nowhere. I was thinking of taking the front drive shaft off to check those u joints but didn't think that would cause this.
View 10 Replies
I drove my pickup on mostly dry pavement the other day with it in 4WD and the hubs locked. I got a bit of shimmy/vibration which quit after about a mile. When I got back on ice, the 4WD wasn't working. I assumed the transfer case or locking hubs had failed. Today I got it up on jack stands, put it in 4WD, and locked the hubs. Everything seems fine. What might have happened when I couldn't get 4WD to function.
View 2 Replies
My 2001 F250 with 5.4 gasser surges when it rolls downhill when using the cruise control. It does not do that when it is going up hill or on flat level highway. Why it does that? This is only when I use cruise control.
View 3 Replies
07 f250 has a shimmy from the rear at highway speed. Has new tires is worse with a load. What am I missing here?
View 3 Replies
New 2016 - 6.7 automatic with exhaust brake:
In tow haul mode is the exhaust brake automatically activated or do you still have to turn on by button? Getting mixed answers, and seems to me that it does not activate unless you push the button which is seems to be what the literature is saying.
On steep downhill pulling heavy trailer, in tow haul mode every time you hit the brake it downshifts, and isn't long before it will over rev, unless you kick it out of tow haul mode. is there a way to hold it in a gear in tow haul mode? Or should I shift into manual mode at the top of the hill then use the +/- buttons.
View 5 Replies
I am having some intermittent long cranks when parked facing down hill (even very slight downhill). It seems like it only happens cold and is worse when parked for longer. Truck has all updated parts under the hood and is under warranty for another month. I would like to know where to start diagnosing (what would cause this symptom) since I'm sure it won't do it when I take it to the shop right before warranty is up for one last go over.
View 2 Replies
Is there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
View 2 Replies
So I just bought a 2016 F-250 (6.2L Gas) and the dealer says the trucks don't have gas caps anymore. Built in vapor lock blah blah blah... I have seen this on some cars, but it looked different. Mine looks like it should have a cap screwed on.
I have 200 miles in and "Check Fuel Cap" keeps popping up on the dash. I'm going to call the dealer when they open today but was wondering if anyone has bought a 2016 without a gas cap.
View 14 Replies
I'm working on my brothers 99 f250 super duty 2wd. The truck pulls to the right. Here's the list of things I've changed and checked
1. Gear box
2. Tie rods
3. Ball joints (aligned)
4. New bearings and seals
5. Brake rotors and calipers. Front and rear.
6. Rotated tires front to back
7. Rotated tires in cris cross pattern
8. 4 new tires (factory size tires)
9. Rebalanced tires
10. Aligned for a third time.
And the truck still pulls right. What is causing this!
View 13 Replies
I have a 2003 f-250 s/d 7.3 ltr. 4x4, it is lifted 4" with 20 " pro comp tires and an auto tranny. I am getting between 10 and 11 mpg. whether pulling my 26 ft. trailer or just driving around town. I was told that is not good mpg. What I can do to improve the fuel economy or is 10 mpg normal.
View 11 Replies
Just wanting to know what might be wrong truck will not go into 4x4. All fuses in panel looked good. Light on dash is not coming on was working last weekend just fine. Have the hubs in lock position not auto.
View 6 Replies
I've had my 99 F250 for about 2 weeks and my SES light came on last week. I took it into AutoZone and they read the code. DPFE sensor EGR etc. The kid behind the counter mentioned something about removing those and saving some money. We don't have any emissions testing. I don't want to take any short cuts really, but if its unnecessary to have than why not delete it. I have the 5.4 and it has 189,000 miles and we did buy the truck to haul the camper so that plays into the scenario also.
View 9 Replies
Okay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?
View 11 Replies
What a 1999 f250 super duty triton v10 would have for a front axle and why mine won't lock in 4x4 at the front drivers side hub it have warn hubs and will lock in on passenger side but on divers with ether just grind or not go in at all...
View 10 Replies
My 1999 f250 v10 automatic shakes really bad only when your doing 70-80 kmh unless you shut off the overdrive or go faster... why?
View 8 Replies
Ok i have a 99 f250 with a 6.8 v10 that is not turning over at all. I have checked the battery and its good. I have replaced the starter and the starter relay and have tested the starter and its good too. I have also used a volt meter on the batter, starter, and relay and looked at the relevant info and they are all in the correct volt range. I have also taken the starter off and looked at the flywheel and it has good teeth so thats not an issue. I am completely stumped now as to what it could be?
View 5 Replies
Friend's truck started shifting wierd the other day, starts in second gear (maybe higher). The transmission is a fresh rebuild, the shop wouldn't warranty the rebuild and blamed electrical problems outside the tranny. Fuses are all good, engine light is on but the cheapo code reader won't show a code. Did a search and no answers. Had the overdrive light flashing from before, that code was for a wheel speed sensor.
1999 F250 (7 bolt) 5.4L 4x4
View 1 Replies
So, currently I have a 2006 6.0 that's been bulletproofed with a 4.5" lift, 35" tires, and a few other things. I've debated going to an Ecoboost F-150, but I really don't want to give up the payload and towing capacity of the F-250.
The big gripe I have about my F-250 is dealing with diesel issues in the winter and the stiff ride and wouldn't mind a little quieter engine. Besides that I love the big truck. My question is if the 6.4 or 6.7 trucks are better about not gelling and not starting in the winter compared to the 6.0? I've read that the ride quality on the 6.4 and the 6.7 is much better than the 6.0 truck.
I've actually debated just getting a dually F-350 and getting another car to drive when I don't need the truck. I'd never have to worry about too heavy or big of a load and then wouldn't have to worry about driving a big truck into tight places either.
View 3 Replies
