I have a 1999 ford f250 5.4 2 wheel drive i believe its a 4r100 transmission. auto. I have reverse but no forward gears. Ive heard this is a common problem , and on my reverse it has to hit 3000 rpm before it even tries to move and D 1 2 i have nothing only thing i hear is the engine sound changes gets deeper. Do i need a whole new transmission or is this fixable.
View 4 RepliesWhenever I manually pull my gear selector into first gear it blows one of the 10a fuses (not sure which number). I lose all gauges and accelerator pedal. It's about the fourth fuse from the right on the bottom row.
View 4 RepliesThe other day I was driving i was driving down the road when suddenly my truck wouldn't shift out of first gear, then the truck died and the motor wont turn over either. Acts like it is locked up. Its an 01 with v10 and 4r100.
View 6 RepliesRecently I have had an issue with my auto which was just rebuilt. About 500 kays after i picked it up it shifts dangerously hard and immediately into all gears at around 20-40 mph, converter also locks immediately. The speed sensor in the box was replaced with the rebuild but I'm having it replaced again this thursday just in case.
Just for the record I cooked it on the beach a while back, the speed sensor was replaced with the rebuild as it was doing the above, the od light also flashes when this occurs, before and after the rebuild.
Prior to cooking it never had an issue.
What could be causing it? I'm starting to worry it cant be fixed, have done a google and tried a couple of things mentioned. Code says wiring issue associated with speed sensor in box.
My 2000 f250 7.3 4x4 with a 4r100 tranny. I was towing my boat home and noticed the temperature rising from roughly 140 all the way to 160 over a short distance. As soon as I pulled up to the house I noticed I was dumping my transmission fluid. Went to a mechanic and he fixed the leaking on the transmission by replacing some seals and changed out my rear main seal while the tranny was out.
I also went ahead and replaced the torque converter so I would not have to do it in the future. went to pick up my truck and noticed that on the way home the temperature was still rising. On a normal day here in Texas my tranny temperature was about 125 While towing it would creep up to about 143. Now, just getting home it got up to 180. What could be causing the temp to run this high and keep climbing?
What's an acceptable GVW value when one is looking to replace the air to oil cooler for this transmission?
2001 F250 CC SB PSD 7.3 Edge
I have a 2004 f250 5.4l w 4r100 and it seams to loose its gear or down shift only when i take a hard right turn. I took it to a trans shop and it shows no codes and at this point I am very confused...
View 9 RepliesMy truck has a bit of an interesting trait. Unless it's just about freezing, my transmission is just about always at operating temperature. If it's 50*F outside and I start the truck, the Trans temp is smack dab in the middle. If it's 30*F outside it starts just a little above cold then is "warmed up" when I drive it down my short street block, which ain't right.
All the rest of the time, it's always reading middle of the bar temperature. My old 5.4L never did this. My 7.3L does. Best I can tell is it's a fault in the temperature sensor for the transmission. I don't have a scan gauge yet to get the readings but will be getting one. Just need to know where the sensor is at so I can have a starting point.
I have an 01 f250 with a 4r100. Trans has not been slipping at all and yesterday it started a rough shift between 1st and 2nd. (3-4K Rpms) At the same time 4th gear stopped engaging. Shifts out of 3rd but does not go into 4th. I can hit my od button and it will shift back into 3rd and start pulling. Still no slipping just doesn't want to change 1-2 or engage 4th. I have done a full trans fluid change including new filter and tc. Old fluid looked fine with no metal flakes or garbage in it. So all new fluid still same problem. I was thinking of changing my shift solenoid.
View 9 RepliesTroubleshooting on my wonderful transmission. I have a 2000 F-250 CC Lariat with the V-10. When I start the truck, I hear a high pitch noise. It's like a high pitch whine. It changes frequency as you rev the engine in park. Put the transmission into gear. Either forward or reverse, and the noise is lower pitch. As you accelerate, the noise will change frequency. If the tranny is manually shifted, the noise will go away, and then come back a short time later. The noise is audible while driving especially in third and OD. The truck has 93,000 and is dead reliable except for this. I have been under the truck, and I can tell it's coming from the tranny. Not sure if it's the converter or what.
View 10 RepliesI have a 99 F250 7.3PSD; I upgraded the tranny cooler after an episode of overheating while backing up a hill.
The truck has done well, hauled a few tractors with it, but recently I have noticed something that seems scary. When going downhill, I often relax on the accelerator. Usually there is some passive engine braking as happens with any auto tranny. Recently, the truck just coasts - it is as if you feel the tranny shift into neutral and you just coast, except I didn't shift. While this is happening, the accelerator pedal will not rev the engine. You can put the pedal all the way down -> rpms at about 6-800. No response.
At the bottom of the hill (so far) the engine gets louder. the rpms drop, and the accelerator works again. Every time, so far. But, if IO am going down hill, and want to accelerate to execute a laneg change or something - I can't. AFAIK, everything A-OK after the new tranny cooler. levels, etc.
Early 2000 F250
Originally the truck would not go into any forward gear, but had reverse all day long. So I had a rebuild kit ordered (new bushings, seals, frictions, steels, a washer and flat bearing kit, a sprak kit, and the od piston)
After rebuilding it, taking my sweet time double checking everything, it will now go into forward gear but not reverse. So I dropped the pan. The small 3 bolt plate was torqued to spec. When I got to the third bolt in the smaller section of the valve body (upper valve body) I heard a click like maybe a valve returned to its place but I'm not sure. I removed the valve body and accumulator and all the valves were free and had tension. When I had it apart the first time one valve stuck for a split second but I never could get it to stick again.
Finding nothing there I uninstalled the tranny and took the barrel apart all the way down to the L/R piston and could not find anything wrong.
After the build and me running the truck for about 10-20 min there was metal on the magnet (part of the reason I took it all back apart) however I could not find anything worn or chewed up. Could have been the tc I prefilled with 2 quarts in stead of filling all the way.
When I initially rebuilt the 4r100 I took apart the pump to replace the bushing and seal but did not take apart the valves. I've heard the pump is directly related to reverse but I'm not sure. Could something gone wrong in the pump when I took it apart? How would I know? If I new all parts of the reverse system I could then test them.
I have a 1999 F-250 4X4 7.3 lit Diesel engine. My problem is my transmission will go into reverse great no problem but it won't go forward. I have no problem rebuilding the transmission if that's what it needs, I just want to make sure there isn't a electrical issue from the PCM first?
View 14 Replies2003 F250 SC Lariat. 4x4, 6spd manual transmission, Manual hubs and manual 4wd shift. The truck shifts into 4wd perfectly. When I shift back into 2wd the transfer case stays in 4wd. If I back up it will go into 2wd.
View 7 RepliesIt seems its the 4R100 tranny non pto of course and 2wd version. I drove down the rd. after bleeding the brakes, new caliper front right, came home let it idle for about 10 min, shut her down. Went to move it about an hour later, it went into reverse no problem, then when put it in Drive it revved like it was in neutral. There was no banging, no clunking, nothing to make it seem like something catastrophic happened.
I then did a line pressure test and Reverse was fine 200 psi for sure, in drive mode however it was low like around 50 but had to rev real high to get it to 150 like 3/4 pedal and it would want to seem to go forward at a crawl but nothing more. Next I did the obvious and cheked the fluid, it was about 1/4 quart low so added a bit. The fluid did not stink and was beautiful red like new.
I then tried again... no dice same scenario. Then took off the pan, no metal chunks and virtually no dust on the magnet??? Ok so I figure maybe something with the shift valves? Took them all off and the accumulators as well, all check ***** were in place and all valves moved freely.
Now onto the the solenoid pack, checked all per manual for ohms and all were perfect reads at about 27 Ohms, except the EPC solenoid that is the big one on the pack, it should read about 3-5 ohms but this guy is about 12.5 ohms.
I spoke to a tranny shop in town and they said it would not be the EPC and that I could "unplug" the solenoid pack and It would still move forward without it but not to drive like this as line pressure would skyrocket?
Why this thing would have 200 lbs pressure for reverse and so little for forward I mean? that should mean that the pump is working great, if there was a broken something metal I figured I would hear something rubbing or banging or see some shavings? Can this be a "worn out" valve? or gasket issue?
I have a 2005 F250 King Ranch 4X4 Diesel and now experiencing an issue with the front seat belts
The problem is while being worn sometimes they will not let you lean forward- they act like you have a foot on the brake pedal and are locked-you have to lean back and forth several times to get them to let out if reaching for something on the dash etc..
I have searched the forum and found many issues where the seat belts stopped retracting- but my issue seems to be unique in that the seat belt will at times 'Not Let Out" when you lean forward.
My 2001 F250 5.4 has started to make a screeching sound. It only happens when it is in gear (auto) moving forwards or in reverse, and increases in pitch relative to engine speed rather than road speed, and is much more noticeable under mild to moderate acceleration. Maybe I actually mean transmission input speed?
When simply maintaining road speed, it is almost silent. Anyway, if I drop it into neutral while driving, the sound stops, and starts again when I put it back into gear.
From the drivers seat and with the windows closed, it sounds as though it is coming from the engine bay at steering column height, although this is really tough to gauge while actually looking where I am going. With windows open, it comes from both sides of the vehicle.
1st thought is tranny......
2nd thought is a water pump bearing, although there are no apparent cooling problems or leaks.
3rd thought is the alternator bearing, although there are no charging problems.
I say alternator because I recently changed the serpentine belt and noticed that the alternator made a very faint screech-like sound when spun without the belt on it. The main screech was there before I changed the belt. Maybe it gets really loud under load?
So I'm kinda scratching my bean and wondering what expensive piece of mechanics I'm going to shell out for next. If it's #2 or #3, I can do those myself, but if it's #1.... it likely means more money than I have to spare.
I did wonder about removing the serpentine belt and driving a very short distance (end of the driveway and back) to see if I can remove the pulleys, tensioner or other belt driven parts from the equation. Maybe this is not such a smart idea. I'm somewhat at a loss right now.
I don't know why... It seems its the 4R100 tranny non pto of course and 2wd version. I drove down the rd. after bleeding the brakes, new caliper front right, came home let it idle for about 10 min, shut her down. Went to move it about an hour later, it went into reverse no problemo, then when put it in Drive it revved like it was in neutral.
There was no banging, no clunkin, nothing to make it seem like something catastrophic happened. I then did a line pressure test and Reverse was fine 200 psi for sure, in drive mode however it was low like around 50 but had to rev real high to get it to 150 like 3/4 pedal and it would want to seem to go forward at a crawl but nothing more.
Next I did the obvious and checked the fluid, it was about 1/4 quart low so added a bit. The fluid did not stink and was beautiful red like new. I then tried again... no dice same scenario. Then took off the pan, no metal chunks and virtually no dust on the magnet??? ok so I figure maybe something with the shift valves? Took them all off and the accumulators as well, all check in place and all valves moved freely.
Now onto the the solenoid pack, checked all per manual for ohms and all were perfect reads at about 27 Ohms, except the EPC solenoid that is the big one on the pack, it should read about 3-5 ohms but this guy is about 12.5 ohms.
I spoke to a tranny shop in town and they said it would not be the EPC and that I could "unplug" the solenoid pack and It would still move forward without it but not to drive like this as line pressure would skyrocket?
I am on a tight budget and working on my back. I am willing to take the tranny out and bring it into town. Personally I think it's electronic but I don't know ...
Why THis thing would have 200 lbs pressure for reverse and so little for forward I mean? that should mean that the pump is working great, if there was a broken something metal I figured I would hear something rubbing or banging or see some shavings?
Can this be a "worn out" valve? or gasket issue? I really want to avoid removing the tranny at all costs so if there is something I am missing let me know and if you think just yank it out I will.
My 2000 SD 7.3 has developed a quirk. For some reason the trans has decided to shift late in all gears. This only happens once, then resumes shifting normally. However the OD indicator on the shifter blinks from that point forward. Once the engine is shut down and restarted. The sequence starts again. Late shift, through the gears, once, then shifts normally with light blinking. Fluids are up and clean.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 F250 HD gas engine. I have had this truck since 2010. I drive it only occasionally and had not driven it in a few weeks so decided to drive it the other day. I drove about 30 minutes with about half of that on the interstate. It was a fairly hot day mid 80s and I had the AC running. I parked it at a very slight forward downhill position. When I came out after 45 minutes, I saw a puddle of antifreeze in front of the vehicle. When I looked underneath the truck it was primarily dripping from the oil filter canister but also from a couple of other places. I was down about 4 inches in the reservoir. My small truck camper is on the vehicle and I had my coolant container in there.
I topped it off and traveled about 10 minutes on surface streets to my next stop.After about two hours there I came out to the truck to leave and there was not a drop. I then drove 25 minutes home with a little on the interstate running the AC and when I got home not a drop. I got up underneath it and looked all around and couldn't really see an obvious source. My neighbor is a mechanic of sorts and I asked him about it. He had a couple of theories but one involved the heater. He said to crank it up, let it warm up, and turn the heat on and see if I smelled anti-freeze. I did that and there was not a smell at all. He also said something about a cold leak.
Friend's truck started shifting wierd the other day, starts in second gear (maybe higher). The transmission is a fresh rebuild, the shop wouldn't warranty the rebuild and blamed electrical problems outside the tranny. Fuses are all good, engine light is on but the cheapo code reader won't show a code. Did a search and no answers. Had the overdrive light flashing from before, that code was for a wheel speed sensor.
1999 F250 (7 bolt) 5.4L 4x4